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empreinte. 

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illustrent  la  m^thode. 


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NOTES 


ON 


NIAGARA 


ILLUSTRATED. 


e 


riM 


CHICAGO: 

R.   Lespinasse,   Publisher. 
1883. 


cnpYRir.MT, 
R.    LESPINASSE 

1 3  B  3  , 


f 


1 


KOHEI-  r   GRAINCEn,  ppr^s  Wonn. 


BLOMCKi;:.'    DRo:'.  .V  CO  .  LiiiTBnvriNG 


MAP  CF  THE  YICIJIITY  OF  NIAGARA   TALL3. 


/ 


I 


^ 

i. 


im  I^JFrJCE. 


J_\>l'''  I^V  I XC!  ii/,i)H  nirrr  wnn/s  lo  luaho  (/)<■  /tro/}!)' 
fniniliiw  with  n  inosf  sn/tcrh  rredfiD/i  of  X(i/iii-r,  a  ml 
i/cscfihr  ///i/jrrsstons  of  Uic  i/i'ti ritd-n /•  (im/  snhlhnilij  i,/ 
Ihr  Fttlls  of  Xioi/dt'd,  wonhl  prove  a  fnlilc  <ilh'inpl. 
Thi'  (irlisl's  pciivil  nloui-  cot)  i-on\'fij  a  Join/  iilro 
of  Ihf   tnofc   solicnt  frd/nrvs   of   Xioyoro,  oiul   luiisl    of 

9 

Hf'i'.ssi/i/  sii/,/t/,'incn/  lln-  nio.-i/  (/ori/roii.s  ond  hfillinnl 
(Icsi-viplioii.  Hvrn  a/  i/s  hi-.-i/  il  /,fo\'cs  iiKK/ct/mi/c  fo 
cA'/ircss  ihol  in  w/uC/i  /ics  i/s  f/ci/^f.s/  c/ift rr/t—ix-rr/os/- 
inu  mo/ion  ond  />i'r/H'/iio/  c/oitii/i',  co/ijoinci/  wi/h  on 
(i//-jirr\'(i</ i/iij  .sc/isc  of  iini/ij, 

/•Jijvs.  mind  and  Iwur/  t/o  in  unison  ;  wvi/imj  is  iiso- 
/css,  (LI'/  is  /iowerli'ss,  /o  dc/ni-/  //ic  weird  nuijes/u  of 
the  scene. 

We  /ifLX'e.  ondeoA'ored  to  mofre  //,e  wor/r  /teou/iful 
(did  (i//r(L('ti\^e,  (jdlliorinfj  in  one  vo/nme  /he  />es/  words 
of  eIo(/uen/  /wns  oml  /io/)/,ies/  conee/>/ions  of  //ioroa</h 
(ir/is/s, 

ITow  we//  we  ho\^e  sucreede(/  in  oi/dininr/  odraint 
remnins  for  /In-  rent/e?'  /o  de/ermine. 


I 


PUBLISHER'S   NDTE, 


R.  I- 1.  R  I'"  X  C  I".,  in  th<;  course  of  tliis  volumi;,  to  numerous  prominent  authors, 
lias  contrihutcd  iari;cly  to  the  spicy  variations  and   interesting  features  of 
our   text.      As  a  matter  of  justice,  as  well   as-  courtesy,  the   pubhshers  of 
these  various  works  deserve  s|)i:cial  mention  at  our  hands. 

The  fac-simih'  of  enn; ravings  insertc^l  in  our  pages,  ilhistrate,  mostly,  familiar 
jjoiiUs  and  iantlmarks  of  earlier  days,  now  obliterated. 

I'.xcerpts  are  from  llie  following  works: 

Cr.OUCii:    IIOIdllTON'      NlAdMlA    A.sI>   OtHF.H   I'OEMS. 

Hoii^;li(()ii,  Xlillliii  S-  Co.,  Pnblislicra,  Boston,  M.iss. 
LADY   DIKIIS  ll.\li|)V     Ihhoi  iin  Cnii-s  and  I'haiuif.  Lands. 

licllord,  Clarki!  .V  Co..  I'lililisluTH.  ChicnKo,  f|l„  lH,s2. 
(ll.\l!l.r.S  DICKKXS     .\Mi:ni(AN  Notes. 

N.    I'.    Wnj,lS-.VMF.ltIl\N    SCKNI-IIV. 

(ii'o.  Virtui'.  Piililislii'V.  Loii'loii,  iHli!). 
(ii:ol!(JK  W.   IIOM.1:y~Tiie  I'am.s  oi-  NiAdAitA. 

\.  C.  .VriiistroiiK  A  Son.,  PiiMislicrs,  New  York,  IS.I.'l. 

II      T.    .\M-K\    -ILMSTIIATED   (tl'Il)E  To   NiAdAHA. 

II.  T.  Allen,  I'liblisli.T,  NliiK.-ii-a  Falls,  N.  Y..  Isxl. 

.iAC(^ri;s  oKi'r.MiAcir-onENKAcii  in  ameuioa. 

(i.  W.  Caik'ton  &.  Co.,  PnblislitTs,  Xcw  York,  1K77. 
.MUs.  SKioriiXKV— Scenes  in  my  N.vrivE  Land. 
C.  II.  A,  lU-LKLEY-XiAOAnA-A  Poem. 

Lfijvitt,  Trow  &  Co.,  Pulilishors,  Xmv  York,  184,-<. 

•I.    li.    IIAKiaSON'-T.ETTERS   ON   THE   CONDITION   OF  NlAOAIiA   FALLS. 

Frai.klin  Falls,  N.  H.,  1H,'<2. 
■lOHN"  M.  niXCAX— TnAVELs  TiUioioii  paiit  of  the  Cnited  St.ates  and  Canada. 

rnivoisity  Press,  GlasRow.  ISIH. 
CAI'T.  BASIL  HALL— Thavels  in  Xokth  .\merica. 

Kobcrt  Cadell,  Publishor,  Edinburgh,  lit2H. 
.lA.MKS  STCAltT— Thisee  Yeahs  in  North  America. 

London  Edition,  ISML 
(•HAS.  AldrsTIS  .MntHAY-TiiAVELs  in  North  America. 

Harper  &  Bros.,  Pnblisliors,  Now  ^(  ik,  IS.TO. 
•1.  s,  lircKIXCIIAM— America— Historical,  Statistic  and  Dt-.tc^.u-tive. 

Harper  A  Bros.,  Pnbli.slips   New  Y'ork,  1841. 
CHARLES  LYF.LL— Travels  in  North  America. 

Wiley  &  Pntnain,  Publishers,  New  Y'ork,  IH4.'>. 
COL.   IV   IK IXAN-Panipiilet  on  Mackinac  Island. 

Chieaj,'<i,  III.,  I^.'-.'i. 


CONTENTS 


Preface,  ..... 

Publisher's  Note, 

List  of  Illustrations, 

Philosophical  Reflections  —  Col.  P.  Douan, 

Bird's  Eye  View  of  Niagara  Falls, 

Early  Glimpses,  .... 

La  Salle's  Explorations, 

Hennepin's  Account, 

Baron  La  Hontaine,  .... 

Figures  by  Charlevoix, 

Eighteenth  Century  Notes  —  Peter  Kalm, 

L'Abbii  Picquet, 
Weld's  Visit, 

Indian  Legends,  -  .  .  . 

Red  Jacket,  ..... 

Below  the  Great  Fall  —  John  M.  Duncan, 

Creation's  Pride  —  Wilhelm  Aleister, 

The  Old  Ferry  Landing — American  Side, 

Apostrophe  to  Niagara  —  Mrs.  Sigourney, 

Niagara  — Translated  by  Wm.  CuUen  Bryant, 

Album  Sketch — Col.  Porter, 

Behind  the  Sheet  of  Water  —  Chas.  A.  Murray, 

Captain  Hall's  Narrative  —  On  Goat  Island, 

Neighborhood  Scenery, 
First  Goat  Island  Bridge, 
Crossing  to  Canada, 

Impressions— James  Stuart, 

The  Horse-Shoe  Fall— N.  P.  Willis, 

A  Thrilling  Escape  —  Wm.  Hosea  Ballou, 

A  Great  Conception  —  Chateaubriand, 

Offenbach  on  Niagara, 

The  Hermit  of  the  Falls  —  Mrs.  Sigourney, 

The  Rambler — Chas.  Jos.  Latrobe, 

A  Syncope  of  the  Waters — Geo.  W.  Holley, 

The  Niagara  River,  .... 

Dicken's  Notes,  .... 

9 


PAOK, 

7 
8 
18 
16 
17 
19 
20 
21 
25 
25 
27 
28 
28 
30 
82 
34 
86 
37 
38 
39 
40 
42 
43 
44 
44 
46 
47 
48 
50 
52 
54 
55 
60 
66 
68 
72 


CONTENTS, -Continued. 


PAnK. 

Retrospect  —  L.  Pevillc,         ....... 

74 

Railway  Suspension  Bridgf,             ..... 

77 

Goat  Island,       ....... 

77 

Cave  of  the  Winds,              ...... 

78 

Accident  and  Incident,               ..... 

80 

The  Catahact,       ......... 

81 

Tmk  Roak  of  the  Falls,         --..... 

83 

Dkitiis  ok  Niaoaha's  Canyon  —  W.  H.  Ballon,                 .... 

.      .     84 

An  EN(ii.isn  Uncle's  Stoky  —  On  Goat  Island,          .... 

-       .  . "    86 

(ioing  Behind  the  Sheet, 

87 

The  Whirlpool,            .... 

91 

Sulphur  Springs,                .... 

91 

Blhnin(i  ok  the  Caholine  —  H.  T.  Allen,       -..'.- 

92 

How  TO  See  the  Cataract — J.  B.  Harrison,      ..... 

94 

Existing  Conditions,      .... 

94 

Four  Separate  Waterfalls, 

94 

Framework  of  Foliage, 

96 

Why  Some  Persons  arc  Disappointed, 

97 

Misused  Opportunities. 

98 

Prospect  Park,        ..... 

100 

Goat  Island,                  .... 

101 

The  Rapids,             ..... 

102 

A  Last  Look  —  ,T.  S.  Buckingham,                 ..... 

104 

The  Rai'ids  and  Gorge  —  (ieorge  Houghton,        -            -            .            .             . 

105 

Manitou  Rock  and  the  Whirlpool  — C,  H.  A.  Bulkley, 

106 

The  Maid  ok  the  Mist  —  Geo.  W.  Holley,           ..... 

107 

Table  Rock,                  .--..... 

110 

The  New  Sisi'ension  Bridge,        -■-.... 

112 

American  Rapids  — N.  P.  Willis,          ...... 

114 

Fro.m  City  to  Cataract  — Lady  Duffus  Hardy,                 .... 

115 

Niagara  Falls  krom  Canada  —  (Jeneral  View,             .... 

116 

Table  Rock, 

116 

The  Rapids,                .... 

117 

Clark  Hill  Islands,           .... 

118 

The  Burning  Spring, 

118 

Above  the  Falls,               .... 

120 

Lundy's  Lane,            .... 

122 

Whirlpool  Rapids,            .... 

122 

The  Whirlpool,          .... 

122 

Under  the  Cataract— Basil  Hall,            ...... 

123 

EfTect  of  the  Wind,                .... 

124 

Water  Cones,        --.... 

124 

Experiments,               ..... 

125 

In  Winter,             ---...... 

126 

Ice  Mound,             -.-.... 

128 

Speculations  op  the  Scientists: 

Retrocession  ok  the  Falls— Sir  Charles  Lyell, 

129 

Reduced  Height, 

130 

Recent  Proofs  of  Erosion, 

130 

Remnants  of  an  old  River  Bed, 

]31 

The  Devil's  Hole, 

133 

Recession,          .... 

183 

Future  Retrocession, 

134 

10 

CDNTENTS.-CDMTINUEn. 


Retrocession  of  the  Falls  —  Origin  of  the  Falls, 

Lapse  of  Time, 
Past  and  Futube — Prof.  Tyndall, 

Effects  of  the  Sand  Blast, 
Erosive  Power  of  Rivers, 
Origin  and  Progress  of  the  Cataract, 
In  the  Past, 

Erosive  Power  of  the  Horse-8hoe  Fall, 
The  Future, 
Gratuitous  Assertions  —  J.  M.  Duncan, 
A  Bold  Swim,        -  -  ... 

Ciiptiiin  Webb  in  tlie  Rapids, 
Tlieories  us  to  Manner  of  Death, 
International  Park  Project,  ... 

A  Plea  for  Preservation  —  J.  B.  Harrison, 
Niagara  Falls,  Ontario,  ..... 

Village  of  Niagara  Falls,  N.  Y.,       .... 

The  Hackmaii, 
List  of  Points  of  Interest,  .... 

Distances,  ....... 

Admission  Fees  and  Tolls,  .... 

Rates  of  Fare  Allowed  by  Law,  .... 

Brief  Guide  to  Niagara  Falls  and  Vicinity, 

How  to  Reach  Niagara  Falls,  .... 

Michigan  Central  Railroad,  .... 

The  Dining  Cars, 
Trip  over  the  Line, 
View  of  Niagara  Falls, 
Improvements  and  Advantages, 
Across  Niagara  River,      ...... 

Construction  of  Canti-Lever  Bridge, 
Mackinac  Island  —  Col.  P.  Donan,  .... 

Grandest  Panorama  on  Earth, 
Progress,  ...... 


PAai. 

- 

185 

■ 

13(! 
110 

140 

141 
142 
112 

143 

- 

144 

140 

- 

149 

151 

- 

152 

154 

son. 

155 

158 

159 

100 

- 

101 

102 

. 

102 

102 

- 

103 

109 

■ 

171 

173 

- 

174 

174 

- 

175 

170 

178 

• 

180 

182 

- 

184 

11 


LIST    DP   ILLUSTRATIONS. 


SnUECT. 

View  from  New  Railway  Bridge  (American  side), 

The  New  Caiiti-lever  Bri<lge  across  Niagara  River, 

Map  of  till'  Vicinity  of  Niagara  Falls, 

A  Sweet  Singer,  ...... 

Blooming  Cactuses,  ..... 

A  Tony  Tourist ,  ...... 

Bird's  Eye  View  from  Upper  Rapids  to  the  Whirlpool, 
Indian  Head  ....... 

Stone  Towers  of  Kort  Frontenai' in  11)76,    - 

La  Salle's  Fort  and  Palisades,  KITS.       .  .  .  . 

Hennepin's  View  (Fnc-simile),         .  .  .  . 

General  View  in  1796  (Fiic-similo),        .... 

Flying  Ducks,  -  -  -  -  - 

Horse-Slioe  FaU  in  1796,  (Fac-simile), 

From  Far  Scattered  Camps,  .... 

The  Indian's  Sacrifice  to  Niagara's  God's. 

The  House  of  R<!d  Jacket,  .  .  -  . 

Portrait  of  Red  Jacket  (Fac-simile)      .  .  .  . 

Horse-Shoe  Falls  from  below,  .... 

Creation's  Pride    (Pen  Text),  .  .  .  . 

Tiie  Old  Ferry  Landing    (Fac-simile), 

"  Thy  Forest  Pines  are  Fittest  Coronal," 

Portrait  of  Wm.  Cullen  Bryant,       -  .  -  - 

The  Chief,  the  Soldier  of  the  Sword,  the  Soldier  of  the  Cross, 

L'nder  Table  Rock  in  I8,S5   (Fac-simile). 

Viewing  the  Fails,  -  .... 

On  Goat  Island,  ...... 

View  from  Prospect  Point,  -  -  -  -  . 

Brock's  Monumi'nt  and  Obelisk,       .... 

13 


ARTIST. 

Chas.  Volkm.\k, 
J.  Flemiso, 


Frank  R.  Green, 
F.  C.  Bko.mlev, 
F.  R.  Green, 
('HAS.  Graham. 
F.  C.  Bromley, 
Father  Hennepin, 
J.  Weld, 
F.  C.  Bromley, 
J.  Weld, 
F.  E.  Lt'Mis, 
Chas.  Volkmak, 
C.  Graham, 
Weir, 

F.  C.  Bromley, 
F.  C.  Bromley. 
W.  H.  Bartlett, 
Frank  R.  Green, 
Frank  R.  Green, 
Chas.  Volkmak, 
W.  H.  Bartleti', 
F.  R.  Green, 
Alfred  TRrMBLP., 
A.  Mies, 
F.  C.  Bromley, 


FAQH. 

Frontispiece' 


6 
12 

16 
17 
10 
20 
20 
23 
26 
2H 
29 

:to 

.->! 

:!2 
:i;i 
a.") 

»6 
37 
39 
39 
41 
42 
43 
44 
4') 
46 


LIST    DF    ILLUSTRATIDNS.-CDNTINDEn. 


KCn.IKC'T. 

rroHpi'Cl  I'liiiil  in  IH:irnKiii-»iiiill.'), 

TiTTUiilii  Tnwcr,  BrIilKf  iiiid  Kiills  in  ls:i7  ( F(ir-»ii]iili.), 

Lcwisi.iii  friiiM  tli.' .MdiiiilHiii.      -  .  .  . 

DiiK-'h  NiiiKiini,  -  .  .... 

They  Wolf  ||||.  Weary  Ii.iid  Ixnk  In  his  Di'.soliilc  CoKap'. 

•Sister  IhIiiiiiIs  and  H(irsi'-Shcie  Fulls,     '       . 

Flower  Nase  ami  Initial,  .... 

StejiH  Id  Hiipiils  on  Outer  Sister  Island, 

Wild  Uliissnnis,     ...... 

The  Spring  on  Goat  Island,  .... 

American  Falls  from  the  river, 

(ieneral  View  of  Falls  in  Ihlili,  .... 

Old  Wind  Mill  at  Fort  Erie,         .... 

Tlie  Onllet  of  XiaK'ara  Kiver  (Fae-Himilei, 

Niaj.'ara  Kivor  from  Ori«inal  Majis, 

Cyiitlda  Island,  --.-.. 

Farewell,  ....._ 

Hock  of  .\Kert  and  Cave  of  the  Winds, 
Itaihvay  Snspension  Hrid;!e.        -  .  .  . 

lii<l(lle  Stairs,  --.... 

Bridge  to  MoHK  Island,  .... 

Shallow  of  tho  Koek  and  Inelim-d  Haiiway, 

Ann'rioan  Fall  and  Initial,  .... 

The  c;<'ntral  Fall,        ...... 

Amerienn  Falls  fr (ioat  Island, 

I'nder  the  Rocks-  Goat  Island,         .... 

Spiral  Stjurca.so  on  Canada  Side, 

rilKriniiit-e  I'ndor  the  Falls,  .... 

On  the  Kiver  Ijoiow  the  Ilorso-Shoe  Falls, 

The  Whirlpool  ami  Maniton  Rock  (Fac-simile), 

The  Leajiin),'  Rock,  ..... 

Fort  NiiiBara  in  18U,  ..... 

On  Goat  Island,  .  -  -  .  . 

An  Old  Settler,  ...... 

Yi'  Old  Ferryman,  -  -  .  .  . 

Terrapin  Towov  from  old  plate,         .... 

New  Goat  Island  Biid^i'.  -  .  .  .  . 

American  Rapids  aboM' the  Falls, 

Tempest,  ....... 

The  Maid  of  tho  Mist  ( 

Tlie  Fall  of  Table  Rock, 

The  Now  Suspension  Bridge, 

On  Lake  Ontfirio, 

General  Vh'W  of  Falls  from  Canada 


ioiii!,'  Through  the  Whirlpool  Rapids, 


AUTIHT. 

W.  II.  Bahti.ett, 
W.  H.  Bahtlett, 

F.  C.  BllOMLEY, 

GisT.iVE  Dork, 
A.  Mies, 

F.  C.  BllOMLEY, 

Cius.  Vor.KMAit, 

AL.  Tlll'MULE, 

Chas.  Volkmak. 
Bartlett. 
Tom  Cole, 
Uhake,     - 
W.  H.  Bautlett, 


Chas.  Volkmar, 

Chas.  Voi.kmah, 

E.  Wmite, 

F.  C.  Bkomlev, 
v.  C.  Bromley, 
I'".  C.  Bromley, 
F.  K.  (tReen, 


F.  C.  Bromley, 
Chas.  Volkmak, 
F.  C.  Bromley, 


Bahtlett, 
Bartlett, 
F.  C.  Bromley, 
H.  W.  Troy 


J.  W.  Orr, 

F.  C.  Bromley, 

W.  II.  Bartlett, 


E.  Bro\vn, 

F.  C.  Bromley, 


F.  C.  Bromley. 


PAOE. 

47 

•til 
."iO 

:>7 

AS 
(iO 

(11 

1.2 

«;{ 

114 
(h 
fi8 
II!) 
70 
71 

7;t 

75 

7fi 

77 

78 

7il 

81 

82 

85 

86 

87 

88 

8!) 

!l() 

9S 

!I5 

1)6 

99 

100 

101 

102 

103 

107 

109 

111 

\n 

115 
117 


14 


LIST    DF    ILLUSTRATIDNS,— CUNTINUED. 


HlIUKt'T. 

Falls  VIuw  Station,  M.  C.  H.  R., 

Piollln  (if  AiiiiTii'im  Fall,       .... 

AloiiK  tlio  Biirnliig  S|irinK  Drivf,  ... 

A  Glimpse  of  Amoricaii  Fall, 

First  Bridge  across  American  RapMs  to  tli)at  Island, 
To  Lundy's  Lane,       .  .  -  .  . 

loo  Forms,  ...... 

Behind  tlio  Horso.Shoc  Falls, 

Section  at  Niagara  Falls,  .... 

Section  of  the  Strata  from  Lake  Ontario  to  Lake  Eilc. 
Bird's  Eye  View  of  the  t'i)nntry  around  Niagara  Falls, 
The  Devil's  Hole,       ..... 

The  C'atainct  by  Electric  Light, 

Horse-Shoe  Falls  from  Ferry  lionii, 

Captain  Wobb  in  the  Rapids,       .... 

Matthew  Webb— rortniit, 

American  Rapids  from  Bath  Island, 

Below  the  Whirlpool,  -  -  .  . 

Leaves  from  a  Sketch  Book,  ... 

Ti-ansfer,  Sir  ! 

Rural  Scene  from  the  Heights, 

A  Guide, 

Fame,        ...  .... 

Map  of  the  Michigan  Central  Railroad. 

Fruits  and  Game,  -  -  .  .  . 

Depot  at  Jackso!),  MIcli.,      -  .  .    •       . 

Michigan  Central  Train  passing  Niagara  Falls, 

Mii.'hlgan  Central  Bridge  across  Niagara  River, 

The  Town  of  Mackinac,  .... 

Leaning  Rock,  Mackinac  Island, 
The  Grayling  and  the  Brook  Trout, 
Mackinac  Island  National  Park, 
Arch  Rock  at  Mackinac  Island,  ... 

The  Anglers,  -  -  .  .  . 

Initial  Letters  feom  Drawings  of  Bromley, 


AHT1HT. 

F.  ('.  BnoMi.EY, 

F.  ('.   BllOMIiEY, 

Aldine, 
McLean, 
O.  Oakley, 


('.  Mai'iiano, 
V.  ('.  Bromley, 
Chas.  Lvell, 
Hall's  Rei'Out, 
J,  Flkmin<i, 
A   Mies, 

Alfrkd  Trumiile, 
Chas.  Volkmaii, 
E.  Brown, 


Chas.  Volkmau, 

F.  R.  Gbekn, 

Redfield, 

Brown, 


Ehrman, 


J.  Fleming, 
McLean, 


J.  Fleming, 


McLean, 
McLean, 


McLean 


PAOK. 
ll.S 
IIS 

nil 

120 
121 
122 
12t! 
127 
l.'tl 

i:t4 
i:i7 

II.". 

14H 

I. -in 

l.-.l 

1,>3 

l.'i.^ 

I.-|7 
1,-.H 
I.-i!) 

li;o 

1(1!) 
172 
173 
174 
I7.-> 
177 
I7!l 
ls() 
Ifl 
1H2 
IH.T 
ISli 


Green,  Volkmar,  and  others. 


IS 


i    I 


PHILOSOFHIiL^JlL   I^EFLEGTIONS. 

m  * 

c  n  I, ,    p ,   1 1  n  N  A  N , 

M()N(i  all  th(j  lands  and  nationalities  of  earth,  America 

stands,   in   many  respects,  peerless,   unrivaled  and  unri- 

valable.       It    is    the    broadest    land    ever    t^nven    to   any 

people,  the  grandest  and  most  beautiful,  the  most  varied  in  its 

attractions    and   its  products,   and  the   most    unlimited   in   its 

capabilities  and  its  future. 

The  more  one  rambles  over  this  magnificent  continent, 
our  own  half  world,  and  the  more  he  sees  of  its  never-ending, 
ever-cha'.ging  glories,   sublimities  and   beauties,  the   greater 
must  be  his  contempt  for  the  average  American  tourist,  who 
turns  his  back  on    scenes  as   transcendently  grand,   varied, 
and   enchanting  as  ever  the  sun,  in  all  its  wide   celestial 
rounds,  looked  down  upon;  and  rushes  off  to  Europe,  to 
loaf  around   fashionable   hotels,  wine-shops  and   haber- 
dashers' stores,  and  then  come  back  and  prate,  in  mock-turtle 
French,  of  "  la  belle  Paree,"  queenly  "  Madreed,"  the  Lake  of 
Como,  Mont  Blanc,  Rome,  Venice,  Vesuvius  and  the  Alps,  and 
a  hundred  other  places.     If  he  chances  to  meet  an  intelligent 
European  in  his  travels,  the  first  cjuestion  asked  him  exposes 
his  folly,  for  it  is  a  question  about  some  one  of  the  innumerable, 
sublime  and  wondrous  objects  in  his  own  country  that  he  has 
ne\er  deemed  worth  a  \isit.     In  view  of  the  hegira  that,  each 
spring  and  summer,  jams   every  out-bound   steamer,  there   is 
urgent  need   of  a   constitutional   amendment   prohibiting   any 
untutored  American  from  going  abroad  until  he  has  seen  his 
own  supremely  lovely  land. 

It  was  Hxron,  who,  when  an  American  was  introduced  to 
him,  began  eagerly  to  (piestion  him  about  Niagara  Falls,  and  on  being  told  that  he 
had  never  seen  them,  turned  on  his  heel  with  an  oath  of  unutterable  disgust  at  the 
itlea  ol  a  man  coming  from  America  to  Europe  without  having  seen  that  wonder  of 
the  world  in  his  own  country. 

Nature  never  constructed  a  bigger  combined  idiot  and  cheap  humbug  than  the 
American  who  goes  into  bogus  raptures  over  the  lakes  and  crags  of  Switzerland  or 
Italy,  while  he  has  never  seen  or  cared  to  see  Niagara. 


lu 


.>A 


BSrLYZ  VIEW 

or 


Pfl/flG. 


VV/HIRIPO 


17 


, 


T- 


^J>^> 


\  he     |cill    o|    vvPalcr-i!    rapid     CIS  ■  ll-|c     liglit 

I  he     |lcisnji\g     niass    |ocinis     sKakmn  ■  Inc     abys? : 

I  he  ■  hell  ■  o|  •  \Ayalcrs!    w'hcrc  ■  ihcy     hovv'l  •  and     hi 'is. 

^  I  nci    boil    in    endless    lorlurc;  ■  \A/hilc     Ihc    svs^cal 

U|     I  heir    grcal   agony,    vvyriinq    oul     fron-)  ■  I  his. 

I  heir  •  phlcgclhon.  ■  curls  •  round  ■  ihc  ■  roel^s  ■  of    icI 
I  hal    gird  ■  Ihe    gul|    around,     in  ■  pililcss  ■  horror    scl. 

J\  nd     n-)ounls    in  ■  spray     ihc     skies.  ■  and  ■  ihcncc  ■  again 

l"\clurns  •  in  ■  an    unceasing  ■  shoWcr. 


btnuH,   l.v  CMIL.iE  IIAJI.jl.i.. 


18 


Efir^hY   GhlMTHHS. 


nanu'    N'lAdAKA    is    ol'    liuli.iii    orii^in,    .ind 
iiml()iil)t('(ll\  ;i  lril);il  iiami'.     Aiconlint;  to  Iii(li:ii\ 
aiitlioritics    its    orthoirrapliy    and     inomiiK  iaiioii 
were    orij^iiialK    (  )n\  a-kau  k.\,    clian.^cd    j^radii 
ally  to  N'l  All  i,AU  KAii.      Its   sii,niil"uati()n  is  i^cn 
frail)  ^ivcii  A<,  ••'/'//// ni/<)    oj    Walt  is." 

Till!  work  4)1  distovcis'  and  <N|il()rati(>n  ot 
the  whole  interior  of  the  American  continent  is 
due.  to  the  zeal  and  entluisiasin  of  the  j-'reiK  h 
adventurers,  soKliers  and  missionaries,  ol  the  sis 
teenlh  {■entiir\.  Hefore  the  Spaniards  had  pen 
^j!"  etratcd  southward,  ahoiii  i  sv),  the  I'rendi,  under 
'■"'^  ^  Jac(iues  Carlier,  hail  sailed  up  the  St.  Lawrence 
as  far  as  Oiiehec,  in    i5;,4. 

The    report    of    the     discoveries     m.ide    l>y 
Cartier's  first  expedition  were  so  favorahle  that, 
under   ortlers  of   Kins,'   I'rancis   1.   he   sailed   tlw 
followinsj;'  jcar  with  a  small   llotilla,   to  continue 
investigations  of  tlu;  weil_n;ed-shaped  river,  ninet) 
miles  widi;  at  its  mouth,      I'Or  many  years  oper- 
ations did  not  e.xtcMid  beyond  the  site  of  Ouebec.  and 
information    as    to    the    sourci;   of   the    St.    Lawrence 
was  gathered   from    Indians,  who  tokl   the  navigator 
of  a  great  lake  into  which  also  emptied  a  river  from  the 
south,  and  that  upon  that  rivt-r  and   beyond   the  lake  he 
-"  '."  would   find  an  immense  caiaiitct  and  porttii^c. 

Samuel   de    Champlain,    sent    from    France    in     160;,     for    th(; 

express  purpose  of  utilizing  the   discoveries   mad(;  on  the   St.  Lawrence, 

does   not  appear  to   have   pushed    his  explorations   on    Lake   Ontario   in 

the  direction  of  the  Palis  of  Niagara,  and  leaves  only  an  indication  of  the  cataract 

on  a  map,  published  about   161 3. 

Creuxio,  the  author  of  a  History  of  Canada,  published  in  1660,  also  marks 
it  down  upon  his  map,  but  makes  no  mention  whatever  "in   the  liistor)-  itself. 

Other  early  accounts  in  which  the  cataract  is  incidentally  mentionetl  are  in 
existence,  but  its  first  description  by  an  eye-witness  did  not  occur  until  the  time 
of  La  Salle's  expedition  to  the   Upper  Lakes. 

19 


.»> 


hn  H»niiiii:'M  r.xi'iiOn;nTioMs. 


■R 


f 


()|;|   kl     (  .WAI.II   K     I'l:    I. A    SAI.I.I".   soil   of  ,1   wrallhy   incnii.iiu  of 

kii ,    Ir.iiiif.   ,111  .iiiiliitiiMi^,,   liiiKI,  irsnhiic  yniin^   man,  I'.iinr   to  Caiiad.i 

ill  ilii  spiiii:;  111  i«>()'),  A\]i\  sIdcmI  r<)iis|)i(  iKuis  aiMi»ii,L;'  llu'  most  ailvfiiliiroiis 
.A|il'in  I-,  a!  iliai  liiiir.  I  l(  li.ul  a  linn  liclicf  llial  tln'  Mississippi  riviT 
iiiipiiid  siiiiiliu.ini  iiitii  till'  iiuir  III'  Mcxii-o,  ami  not  into  tlif  I'acific 
111 'an,  as  si.ih  d  l>\  utini  disi  u\  cici  ^,  ami  il  liccamr  tin;  scttli'd  purpose  of  his  lif(! 
Ill  III  ilir  iiisiriimrni  li\  wliiili  liic  imimnsc  trrriloi'N  iriliiilarx  to  its  waters  would 
Im     iliiiiwii   iniii   tin     lap   >>(  liaiKc  and  cMiiisivc  comnu'rcial   relations  established. 

Aliii  a\isii  ■■■■■■■■■^■■■■■i^BanMHiHHai^iaHHMMMBHaaMMi  orih'r 
loKim^  l.duis  I  *^3K^Sr^^-'  ^^^^.,  I  Knighthood, 

\l\'..    u  111.  I  .'^ffy     ^^^H^^fab  1  La  Salle   on 

III  ^B^^^M^^^^^^^^^B^^Bb^^^^^.^^ajjaBJlB^M  r(d)uiit 
,iriiuiiii  ^|^^BS^^^n^^^D||^^^^ll^^^^^HBIP*9 '"' 

it.  C, It. 11, III    B^BIB^BBw^iaBWI^BI^^Bi^^^BP^'''.'''^'.  ■  I'romenac, 

'jin,    ami     llle  monktowu  jorRHTrRoNTUNAc.  m'o.  Wltll    MiassiV'l! 

lowers  III   stdiic,  then  took  steps  to  place  another  fort  at  the  mouth  of  the  Niaj,rara 
river,  li.iviiiL;   ohiained   reluetant   permission   from   the   Senecas  to  erect  it,  and  also 
to  liiiild  .1  \issel   al)o\-e   the  falls  of  Xiapfara.      This  vessel,  nanKal  thi'  Ciriflin,    .   \\'-L 
l.iiimhed  on   the  71I1  of  AilLjiist,   lOjc),  was   the  first  to  naviji^ate  the  lakes. 

lather   i.oiii-,   lieiinepin,  a  Roman   Catholic  Mission-    fh^M 
,ii"\ ,  .u  romp.iniid    l„i  Salle   in   his  explorations,      lii  a 
work   he   pnhlished  in    i()()7  we   liml   the  first  descrip-  -.: 
linn   ol   the   wontU-rliil   cataract  which   he    had  visiteil 
in    I  )i(  emiii  r,    i67,S.      i  lis  work    is  entitled,  ".\    New     /<^ 
|)isio\iry  ol   a   \'asi   Coiinirj   in    .Xmerii  .1,  extemlinj,^ 
,ilio\e  four  thoiisami  miles,  hetweeii   New  I'ranci'  and 
New    Mexico,  with  a  description  of  the   (ireat  Lakes, 
C'atar.icts,  Rivers,  Plants  and  .Xnimals;  ,ilso  the  Man- 
ners, Customs  and    Laiii^u.n^cs  of  the  sexcral   Native 
Indians,  and  the  Atlvantat,'-es  of  Commerce  with  these 
dilfereiit  Nations,  etc."      It  contains  man)-  wi 
derhil   recitals,  hearim;;  a  stronsj'  impress 
of  Indian  folk-lore   and    trailitions,  -^^ 

coupled    with   a   leiuleiicy 
to  the  marvellous.  . 


(] 


i^ 


^ 


U  of 
nad.i 
irons 
rivi'r 
iicit'ic 
s  life 
.'oiild 
shell. 

r  tiic 
i()()(i, 

('  oil 
I  u  r  II 
the 
hich 
iiucl 
n  ;u:, 
issivi: 
;i},'';ira 
;  also 


IIKXXKIMiyft    HCi^OUNT. 


l''/r\VI\r  ihc  Lakes  Ontario  ami  I'.iie,  ilicn-  is  a  vast 
ami  |(roclij;ious  ladeiKr  of  water,  which  tails  down 
after  a  siirprisinL,^  and  asionmlinL;  manner;  insonua  h 
that  the  nniverse  does  not  att'ord  its  p.n-allel.  lis  true, 
Italy  and  Snedlaml  iioasi  of  some  siu  li  things,  Imt  we 
may  well  say  that  they  are  hut  sorry  ii.itterns  when 
compared  to  this  of  whii  h  we  now  speak.  At  the  toot 
of  this  horrihh-  precipice  wc  meet  with  the  river 
NiaLjara,  which  is  not  ai)ove  a  ([iiarter  ol  a  le.iMiic 
l)road,  hilt  is  wonderfully  deep  in  some  places.  It  is 
so  rapid  above  this  descent  that  it  violently  hurries 
down  the  wild  beasts  while  endeavoriiiL^-  to  pass  it  to 
Uci\  on  the  other  side,  they  not  \H-\n^  able  to  with- 
ifi  staml  the  force  of  its  current,  which  inevitably  casts  them 
headl()n)4',  above  six   lumdred   fei'l  hi,i;h. 

This  wonderful  downfall   is  (()m|)oimded   ot    two   ^rcat 

cross  streams  of  water  and   two  tails,  with  an   isle  slopini^- 

Iry'j        cilon^f  the   middle  of  it.       The   waters   which   fall   from   this 

f^"    horrible    precipice    do   toam   ami    boil    atter   the    most    hideous 

manner  ini.ntjinable.  makinj^'  an  oiitrai^ious  noise,  more  terrible 

than    that   of   thunder;     for    when    the    wind    blows    out  of  the 

south,    their  dismal    roaring-   may   be   heard    more    than    fifteen 

leaj,nies  off. 

The  river  Niatfara,  having,''  thrown  itself  down  this  incred- 
ible precipice,  continues  its  impetuous  course  for  two  leaijues 
together,  to  the  Cireat'Rock,  with  an  inexpressible  rapidity;  but  havinij;-  passed 
that,  its  imp(!tuosity  relents,  gliding  along  more  gently  tor  two  other  leagues,  till 
it  arrives  at  du;   Lake   Ontariif  or   I'Vontenac. 

Any  banjue  or  greater  vessel  may  pass  from  the  lort  to  the  top  of  the  huge 
rock  mentioned.  This  rock  lies  to  the  westward  and  is  cut  off  from  the  land  by 
the  river  Niagara,  al)out  two  leagues  further  ilown  than  th(;  (ireat  Ivill,  for  which 
two  leagues  the  people  are  obliged  to  transport  their  goods  over  land;  but  th(! 
wa)  is  very  good,  -.md  the   trees  are  but  few,  chietly  firs  and   oaks. 

21 


i 


^n. 


"liom  tlir  Cinat  l";ill  unto  ihis  rmk.  w'litli  is  to  the  west  of  the  river,  the  two 
iHinks'dl  it  ;ir(  so  pnulit^ious  hi^h  lli;it  it  wnuKl  inakf  one  trciiil)lc  to  look  steadily 
ii|ii>n   till-   \\;ilir,  rollinn'  jiIoml;  willi  a   ra|>iilil\-  not  to  lie  iniaj^nncil. 

1  lould  not  (iMKcivc  liou  ii  came  to  pass  that  Univ  j^rcal  lakes,  the  least  of 
whiili  is  loin-  liiindnil  jeao-ues  in  (■oini)ass,  should  einpiy  tln'iiiselves  into  one 
anotlicr.  .md  then  all  i cnlre  and  dischari^^e  themselves  at  this  (ireat  I-'all,  and  yet 
not  drown  a  i^ood  part  of  America  What  is  yet  more  surjjrising,  the  ground,  from 
the  iiioiitii  (it  Lake  I'.rie  down  to  the  (ireat  I'all,  appi'ars  almost  level  and  llat.  It 
is  scanc  dis( crniiilc  that  there  is  the  least  rise  or  fall  for  six  leagues  together. 
The  mori'  than  ordinary  swiftness  of  the  stream  is  the  only  thing  which  makes  it 
lo  1)1  oliser\cd.  And  that  which  makes  it  yet  the  stranger  is  that  for  two  leagues. 
together  l)el«)w  till'  l".ill,  l(nvartls  Lake  Ontario  or  Frontenac,  the  lands  are  as 
le\el  as   the\    ari'  above  it,   or  towards   Lak(;   Mrie. 

( )iir  surprise  was  still  greater  when  we  observed  that  there  was  no  mountain 
within  two  good  le.igues  of  this  cascade;  anu  yet  the  vast  (juantity  of  water  which  is 
discii.ugid  i)\  these  four  fresh  seas,  slops  or  centres  here,  and  so  falls  above  si*c 
hiiiKhcd  feel  dee|)  ilowii  into  a  gulf  which  one  cannot  look  upon  without  horror. 
Two  oilier  great  outlets  or  falls  of  water  which  are  on  the  two  sides  of  a  small 
slo|)ing  island,  which  is  in  tin;  midst,  fall  gently  and  without  noise,  and  so  glide 
aw.iy  (luietly  enough;  but  when  this  prodigious  (juantity  of  water,  of  which  I  speak, 
comis  to  the  fall,  there  is  a  din  anil  noise,  more  deafening  than  the  loudest  thunder. 

Lhe  reboiiiKhng  of  tlu'se  waters  is  so  great  that  a  sort  of  cloud  arises  from  the 
loam  of  it  which  is  seen  hanging  over  this  abyss,  even  at  noon-day,  when  the  sun 
is  at  iis  heigiu.  In  tlie  midst  of  summer,  when  the  weather  is  hottest,  they  rise 
above  the  tallest  lirs,  and  other  great  trees  which  grow  on  the  sloping  island  which 
makes  the   two  falls  of  water  that   I    s|)oke  of. 

I  wislu'tl  an  hundred  times  that  somebody  had  been  with  us  who  could  have 
desiribed  the  wcjnders  of  this  prodigious  Fall,  so  as  to  give  the  reader  a  just  and 
natural  idea  of  it,  such  as  might  satisfy  him,  and  cause  in  him  an  admiration  of  this 
|irodigy  ol  nature  as  great  as  it  deserves.  In  the  meantime  accept  the  following 
limit,  such  as  it  is,  in  which,  however,  I  have  endeavored  to  give  the  curious  reader 
as  just  an   image  of  it  as   I    can. 

•After  the  river  has  run  violently  for  six  leagues,  it  meets  with  a  small  sloping 
island,  about  half  a  (|uarter  of  a  league  long,  and  near  three  hundred  feet  broad, 
as  veil  as  one  can  guess  by  the  eye;  for  it  is  impossible  to  come  at  it  in  a  canoe 
ol  bark,  the  water  runs  with  that  force.  The  isle  is  full  of  cedar  and  fir,  but  the 
lam!  of  it  lies  no  higluT  than  that  on  the  banks  of  the  river.  It  seems  to  be  all 
le\(l,  even  as   far  as  the  two  great  cascades  that  make  the  main   Fall. 

The  two  sides  of  the  channels,  which  an-  made  by  the  isle,  and  run  on  both 
sides  of  it,  overllow    almost  the  very  sm-face  of  the  earth  of  the  said   isle,  as  well 

32 


tL 


as  the  land  that  lies  on  the  hanks  of  the  river  to  the  east  and  west,  as  it  runs  south 
and  nortii.  Hut  \vt;  must  observe,  that  at  the  end  of  the  isle,  on  the  side  of  the 
two  (ircat  I'alls,  there  is  a  slopini^r  rork  which  reach<!s  as  far  as  the  jjreat  i,nilf 
into  which  thi;  said  water  falls,  and  yet  the  rock  is  not  at  all  w(!tted  hy  the  two 
cascadi's,  which  fall  on  hoth  sides,  because  the  two  torrents  which  an-  made 
hy  liic  isle  throw  themselves  with  a  prodigious  force,  one-  towards  liu;  east  and 
the  other  towarils  the  west,  from  off  the  end  of  the  isle  where  the  (ireat  l-"all 
of  all   is. 


iAC:;:M:LL   OK    A    VILA'    Of   NIAGAUA    FALLS,  Ur    KATHLK   Lti:3    HENNMIN. 


After  these  two  torrents  have  thus  run  by  tlie  two  sides  of  the  isle,  they  cast 
their  waters  all  of  a  sudden  down  into  the  _!,riilf  by  two  great  falls;  which  waters 
are  pushed  so  \  iolentlj-  on  by  their  own  weight,  and  so  sustained  by  the  swiftness 
of  the  motion  tliat  they  do  not  wet  the  rock  in  the  least.  And  here;  it  is  that  they 
tumble  down   into  an  abyss  si.\   hundred   feet  in   depth. 

'I  he  waters  that  llow  on  the  side  of  the  east  ilo  not  throw  themselves  with  that 
violence  as  those  that  fall  on  the  west;  the  reason  is,  becaust;  the  rock  at  the  eiul 
ot  the  island   rises  something  more  on   this  side  than  it  iloes  on  the  west;   and  so 

■J3 


tlic  waters,  Ijcinj,^  sii]>|Jortc(l  l)y  it  sonicwliat  longer  than  they  arc  on  the  otlicr  side, 
arc  carried  tlie  smoother  off:  hut  on  tin;  west,  the  rock  sloping  more,  the  waters, 
for  want  of  support,  become  sooner  broken,  and  fixll  with  greater  precipitation. 
Another  reason  is,  the  lands  that  lie  on  the  west  art;  lower  than  those  that  lie  on 
the  east.  We  .ilso  ()l)served  that  the  waters  of  the  fall  that  is  to  the  west  made  a 
sort  of  s(|uare  figun;  as  they  fell,  which  made  a  third  cascade,  less  than  the  other 
two.  whidi   fell   betwixt  the  south  antl   north. 

And  because  there  is  a  rising  ground  which  lies  before  these  two  cascad(;s  to 
the  north,  tin;  gulf  is  much  larger  there  than  to  the  east.  Moreover,  we  must 
observe  that  from  the  rising  ground  which  lies  over  against  the  last  two  falls,  which 
are  on  the  west  of  the  main  fall,  on<;  may  go  down  as  far  as  the  bottom  of  this 
terrible  gulf  Tile  author  of  this  discovery  was  down  there,  tlu;  more  narrowl)-  to 
observe  the  fall  of  thes(;  prodigious  cascades.  I'rom  thence  we  could  discover  a 
spot  ot  grounil  which  lay  under  the  fall  of  water  which  is  to  the  east,  big  enough 
for  four  coaches  to  drive  abreast  without  Ix-ing  wet;  but  because  the  ground  which 
is  to  the  east  of  the  sloping  rock,  where  the  first  fall  empties  itself  into  the  gulf,  is 
very  steep  and  |)erpendicular,  it  is  impossible  for  a  man  to  get  down  on  that  side, 
into  the  place  where  the  four  coaches  may  go  abreast,  or  to  make  his  way  through 
such  a  ([uantity  of  water  as  falls  towards  the  gulf  ;  so  that  it  is  very  probable  that 
to  this  dry  place  it  is  that  the  rattlesnakes  retire,  by  certain  passages  which  they 
fmd   under  ground. 

[•"rom  the  end  of  this  island  it  is  that  these  two  great  falls  of  water,  as  also  the 
third  but  now  mentioned,  throw  themselves,  after  a  most  surprising  manner,  down 
into  a  tlreadful  gulf  six  hundred  feet  and  mort;  in  depth.  I  have  already  said  that 
tin-  waters  which  discharge  themselves  at  the  cascade  to  the  east,  fall  with  lesser 
force  ;  whereas  those  at  the  west  timible  all  at  once,  making  two  cascades,  one 
moderate,  tlu;  other  \ery  violent  anil  strong,  which  at  last  make  a  kind  of  crochet 
or  scjuare  figure,  falling  from  south  to  north  and  west  to  east.  After  this  they 
rejoin  the  waters  of  the  otlu;r  cascade  tliat  falls  to  the  east,  and  so  tumble  down 
altogether,  though  unequally,  into  the  gulf  with  all  the  violence  that  can  be 
imagined  from  a  fall  of  six  hundred  feet,  which  makes  the  most  frightful  cascade  in 
the  world. 

1  have  often  heard  talk  of  the  cataracts  of  the  Nile,  which  make  the  people 
deaf  that  live  near  them.  I  know  not  if  the  Iroquois,  who  formerly  inhabited 
near  this  fall,  and  lived  upon  wikl  beasts  which  from  time  to  time  are  borne  down 
by  the  violence  of  its  torrent,  withdrew  themselves  from  its  neighborhood  lest  they 
should  likewis*'  become^  deaf,  or  out  of  the  continual  fear  they  were  in  of  rattle- 
snakes, which  are  very  common  in  this  jjlace  during  the  great  heats,  and  lodge 
in  the  holes  of  the  rocks  as  far  as  the  mountains,  which  lie  two  leagues 
lower." 


M 


BJlF{Ol}   np    HOI^TpillE, 


^'ITHIN  a  few  years  after  that  of  Father  Hennepin  comes  the 

report  of  Baron   La  Hontaine,  whose  impressions  we  iind 

recorded  in  a  vohmie  of ''New  Voyaj,fes  to  North  America," 

published  in  London  during  the  year   170,;,  and  orijrinally 

written  in  tht;  French  hinguage. 

His  visit  occurred  in  the  latter  part  of  tlu-  year 
1687.  On  account  of  the  bitter  anil  relendess  enmity 
of  the  Iroquois  against  the  French  he  was  kept  in  con- 
stant fear  of  a  sudden  attack.  His  sta)'  was  brief,  and 
in  many  cases  his  examinations  only  superficial.  ()l 
the  cataract,  he  says: 

"As  for  the  waterfall  of  Niagara,  'tis  seven  or  eigiit 
hundred  feet  high  and  half  a  league  broad.  Towanls 
the  middle  of  it  we  descry  an  island,  leaning  towards  the 
precipice  as  if  it  were  ready  to  fall.  All  the  beasts  that  do 
atte-mpt  to  cross  the  waters  within  half  a  (juarter  of  a  league  above 
this  unfortunate  island  are  sucked  in  by  the  stri^am.  They  serve  for 
food  for  the  Iroquois,  who  take  them  out  of  the  water  with  their  canoes.  Between 
the  surface  of  the  water,  that  shelves  off  prodigiously,  and  the  foot  of  the  precipice, 
diree  men  may  cross  it  abreast,  without  an)-  other  tlamage  than  a  sprinkling  of 
some  few  drops  of  water. 


'S^^\ 


The  KSTiMAiE  concerning  the  height  of  the  Falls  given  by  Father  Hennepin 
and  Baron  La  Hontaine  seems  gready  exaggerated.  We  must  remember,  how- 
ever, that  it  comes  from  men,  litde  used  to  estimating  distances.  F^ven  at  this  date, 
a  view  from  the  river  below  the  l<"alls  will  produce  upon  most  persons  a  much 
exaggerated  impression.  The  rush  of  waters  in  front  of  the  observer  apparentl)' 
comes  down  in  a  tremendous  stream  from  the  arched  vaults  of  the  heavens  above. 

The  EKiuKEs  given  by  Charlevoix  in  1721  were  undoubtedly  obtained  with  a 
view  to  an  accurate  estimation  of  the  height  of  the  Falls,  and  present  a  correct 
statement  of  the  case.  "I'or  my  own  part,  having  examined  it  on  all  sides,  where 
it  could  be  viewed  to  the  greatest  advantage,  I  am  inclined  to  think  we  cannot 
allow  it  less  than  one  hundred  and  forty  or  fifty  feet. "  (In  the  measure  of  thi; 
time,  this  gives  the  exact  height  to  a  fraction.) 

^5 


H 


1,H* 


EIGHTEKNTH    tJKNTURY   NOTES. 


<.A 


m 


.1  I.  k    KALM,   a   noted   Swctlisli  hotanist,  who  visiu-d  the 

l-"alls  in  1750,  corrohoratcs  tlic  stati'incnt  of  I-'athcr  llt'iint'- 

pin  about  a  rork   projcttin^r  upon  the  west  siili-  of  tlic  river 

wliicli  turni'd  a  part  of  tlie  water  at  ri<,dit  anjrles  with   tlie 

Main   I-'all,   tluis    formin}4-  a  Cross    I-'all.      He    speaks  of  a 

precipitation   of  the  rocks  at  a  point  whore  tlie   water  was 

orii^inaliy  out  ol  its  direct  course,  as  havinjj  occurred  a  few 

revious  to  his  visit,  and  u|)on   his   plan  of  the    I'alls   indicates 

•cise   s|)()t,    which   corresponds  to  that   stated   by    Hennepin. 

somewhat  doubtful   story  .i;iven   in   his   narrative,   is  that  of 

dians,  who  havini,^  been  »;asl  upon  the  island   in   the  middle 

i-'all   (tioat   Island),   in   order  to  escape  made    rope  ladders 

from   the  bark  of  trees,  with  which  they  lowiTcd  themselves  down 

to  the   river,      beelini^-  unaiilc  to  swim  against  "  the   waves  of  the 


-jJ.        eddy   which,   again    and    again,    threw    them    with   violence    against    the 
rocks,   th(>y  were  obliged   to  climb  up  their    stairs    again   to  the    island, 
J^-j.  not  knowing  what  to  do.      Alter  some  time  tliey  perceiveil    Indians   on 

•;  the  opposite  shore,   to   whom    they  cried  out.      'I'liesi;    pitied    them,   but 

gave  them  little  hopes  of  help;  )('t  they  matle  haste  down  to  tlie  fort,  and  told 
the  i'Vench  commander  where  two  of  their  brethren  were.  He  persuaded  them 
to  try  all  possii)U'  means  of  relieving  the  two  poor  Indians;  and  it  was  done  in 
this  manner:  The  water  that  runs  on  the  east  side  of  the  island  is  shallow,  and 
breaks  in  rapids  over  the  rocks.  The  commandant  caused  poles  to  be  made  and 
pointed   with  iron;    two   Iiulians  ileterm 


b>- 


■ll>   of 


these  poles,  to  save  the  others  or  perish.  The)-  took  leave  of  their  friends,  as  if 
they  were  going  to  die.  b^ach  had  two  such  poles  in  liis  hand,  to  set  against  the 
bottom  of  the  stream  to  kee])  them  steady:  so  diey  went  and  got  to  the  island, 
and  having  given  poles  to  the  poor  Indians  there,  they  all  returned  safely  to  the 
main  shore.       The    unfortunate   creatures   had    been    nine   day 


s  on 


he    IS 


land. 


ant 


were  almost  starvit 


1  t< 


■ath. 


m 


i 


wi 


'  ^«f*i 


JIHHE     PICQUET. 

f  r/  AH  UK  I'lCOl'F,'!',  in  1751,  s|)t;aks  in  jjosilivi-  terms  of  tlu-  number  of 
^^  watt'-rfalls.  lie  says:  "This  cascade  is  as  |)rodiyioiis  hy  reason  of  its 
Iieio^lu  and  tlie  (|nantity  of  water  which  falls  there,  as  on  account  of  the 
vari(l\-  of  its  falls,  which  are  to  the  number  of  six  principal  ones  divided  b)'  a 
small  island,  leavini,'-  three  to  the  north  and  three  to  the  south.  They  produce 
ol    themselves  a  sin.ijular  sjinmetr)'  and  wontlerful  effect." 


WEIiirS    I'ISIT. 


T^\'()   SKKTCHKS    matle    upon    the    spot    by  the   Knt^lish    artist    Weld    in 
1 7()6,   and   reproduced    in  exact  fac-simile,   tjive  the  reader  a  most   correct 
itiea  of  the  !:,r('niTal  appearance  of  the   Trails  at  the  close  of  the  Eighteenth 
Century,  as  well  as  the  jjeculiar  form  of  the  Horse-Shoe.     Weld  speaks  in  decided 
terms  of  a  change  in  the  ft'atures  of  the   Horse-Shoe   I'"all,   sajing:     "Within   the 
memory  of  many  of  the  present  inhabitants  of  the  country,  the 


falls  have  receiled  several  yards.      Tradition  tells    _ 


us  that  the  (ireat  Fall  instead  of  having 


-«sf^ 


7^' 


^«^ 


s^ 


horse  shoe,  once 


projected  in  the  middle. 
For  a  century  past,  however. 
it  has  remained   nearly  in   the 
' -T-      present  form."     He  also  says  that 
he  saw  the  clouds  of  spray  from  the 
falls,  while  sailing  on  Lake  F>ie  at  a  dis- 
tance of   fifty-four  miles.      A  comparison  of  his 
sketches  with  that  of  Father   Hennepin  will  convey  at  a 
glance  the  great  changes  of  a  centur)'. 

IIS  WKiTKR  is,  in  a  measure,  addicted  to  the  marvellous,  and  his 
statements  are  somewhat  inconsistent.     The  stubborn  fact  is.  there  is 
nothing  known  of  the  falls  beyond  Hennepin's  day,  which  can  be  sustained 
either  bj-  historical  or  traditional   record." 

Akkowsmitii  observes:  "A  person  may  go  to  the  bottom  of  the  falls,  and  take 
shelter  behind  the  torrent,  between  the  falling  water  and  the  precipice,  where  there 
is  a  s|)ace  sufficient  to  contain  a  number  of  persons  in  perfect  safety,  and  where 
conversation   ma\    be  held   without   interruption   from   the  noise." 

28 


II^DipN    hEGKNDS 


I'-G  I^N  DA  K  Y  associations  do  not  abound  around   \ia,i,'ara.      'Ihc. 

al)ori,L,dni's  \  icwcd  tlic  j^rcat  catarait   with  rclii^'ioiis  veneration,  as 

if  it  wen-  a  true   Divinity.      Tlicy  (iis|)laye{I  tiicir  adoration   to  the 

(ireat  S|)iril  of  tiie    l'"all   hy  castintj;-    their    pipes,   wampinn  and 

-i'*   (hfferent  trinkets  into  tin;  llood,  and,  it  is  said,  the  hehef  existed 

amonq-   tlieni    that   tiie   cataract    demands  a   yearly  sacrifice;   of   two   human 

victims.     The  story  is  cliarmin^iy  and  strikint,dy  told  in  ('ieori,fe   Houghton's 

poem   on    Xiaj^rara.      I-et   us  abandon   our    prosaic    effort,    leaving  absolute 

sway  to  the  poet. 

Mi'ii',  wliiii  till-  wdrlil  wns  wrontlii'd  with  llic  siarlrt  mid  noU\  (if  Ortdlicr, 
lliTo.  fniMi  fiii-twiiUiTccI  eaiiips.  iiiiiu'  tlii"  rniK-nisiniMl  trilii's  of  tlio  roil-iiian, 
I.i'fl  in  llii'ir  ii'iits  tlioir  tMiws,  fdi^'dt  tlicir  liriiwls  ami  iliswiisioiis, 
Kiiisoil  tlii'i!  witli  pi'nrc'ful  (iri'H,  mid  civcr  ttipir  I'Hliiiimts  |ionili>n'd; 

"  Cliosc  fmiii  tlii'ir  fniii'sl  virgins  llii'  fiiirrnt  and  |Miri'.st 

miKiiiK  tlicm, 
lliilliiwod  a  liirchi'ii  caniii-.  miil  fasliidiiod  a  scit  fdr 

till'  virKin. 
riiilliort  her  ill  wliiti',  and  set   lirr  adrift  to  whirl  to 

tliy  liosiini, 

Saving:     '  Ki'ci'ivo  this  mir  vow,  Xiaganv;  Fatlior  of 
Waters!' 


FROM  rAR-SCAITEKEU  cAMI: 


■  Lol   drifting  toward  us  approathos  a  iiirioiis  laiiglo  of 
soniPthinKi 
While  and  uiitilloreil  it  floats,  bcwitcliinj,'  Iho  siglil,  and 

appearing 
Like  to  a  birchen  eanoe,  a  virgin  cniiiehed  pallid  within  it. 
Hastening  witli  martyr  zeal  to  solve  the  unriddled  here- 
after! 

■'  Slower  and  smoother  her  flight,   nntil  on   the  preeipiee 
pausing, 
Just  for  the  spai'e  of  a  breath  the  dreail  of  the  change 

seems  to  thrill  her; 
Crossing  herself,  and  seeming  to  shudder,  she  lifts  eyes 

to  heaven, — 
Sudden  a  mist  upwhirls— I  see  not— but  know  all  Is  over. 
•M 


THE    INDIAN  3  SAUF^IFICE   TO    NIAGARA  S  OOU 

31 


r 


!ih^ 


iiii 


i^Ei)  ;ipcrKKT. 


"Thn  Irf:.t  nt  thn  SfllHr.a'!." 

Ill':  (iKi;.\  r  orator  of  llic  Stnccas,  the  famous  ciiicf  Keel 
Jacket,  whose  Indian  nani<;  was  Sti-_i;o-yf-u<al-/ia,  or  "  //<■ 
kif/^s  them  auHxkc"  lias  been  il(;si}^matid  as  "  Tin:  last  of  tlic 
Scncras."  His  clociiicncc  was  tlu!  jjlory  of  his  people,  and 
he  left  no  oni!  behind  to  fill  his  |)lace  at  the  rouncil-fire. 
Opposeil  to  th<;  occupation  of  the  ti^ritory  of  th(!  Six 
Nations  by  the  whites,  his  voice  was  v.wx  raised  upon  all 
'^^^  occasions  to  deprecate  the  cession  of  any  lands,  and  so  lonj^ 

as  he  lived  he  exerted  himself  to  the  utmost  to  prevent  it.  Yet,  he  lived  Ions; 
enouj,di  to  mourn  th(!  loss,  by  piece-meal,  of  almost  the  (!ntire  beautiful  region  over 
which  his  race  had  held  sway  from  the  <!arly  days  of  tradition. 

Speaking  in  council  of  the  transaction  between  the  Indians  and  the  whites, 
from  th(!  first  settlement  of  the  country  down  to  that  day,  he  made  use  of  this 
tiguralive  illustration,  addressing  himself  to  the  Commissioner  who  had  just  com- 
municated the  desire  of  the  United  States,  that  the  Senecas  siiould  sell  their  lands: 
"  We  first  knew  )  ou,"  said  he,  "  a  feeble  plant  which  wanted  a  little  earth  whereon 
to  grow.  W'l;  ga\e  it  you, — and  afterward,  when  we  could  have  trod  you  under 
our  feet  we  watered  and  protected  you; — and  now  you  have  grown  to  be  a  mighty 
tree  whose  top  reaches  the  clouds,  and  whose  branches  overspread  the  whole  land ; 

whilst  we, - '  Rid  Jacket' 

wiio    were    *'^''y»p^pp|C|C~'  by  which  the 

then  the  tall 
l)ine  of  the 
forest,  have 
become  the 
feeble  plant, 
a  n  tl  n  e  e  d 
your  protec- 
tion." 
riu:  name  of 


•J  J 

1 

KiSfL. 

p 

E 

^ 

^ 

> 
1 

.:»-, 

.  ViT'*- 

..  /^^'»' 

"■ 

%-^ 

i 

i 

t-s.'. 

1 

t 

TML  HO'JSE  OK  RED  JACKET  AT  SENECA  VILLAGi:. 


war  of  the  American  Independence  he  received  from  a  British  officer  a  richly 
embroidered  scarlet  jacket  which  he  wore  until  it  became  a  mark  of  distinction  and 
gave  him  the  name  by  which  he  was  best  known.  He  died  on  the  20th  of  January, 
1S30,  in  his  house  at  the  Seneca  village,  near  Buffalo,  at  the  probabk;  age  of  eighty 
years.  Less  than  nine  years  had  elapsed  after  his  decease  when  every  remaining 
foot  of  the  ancient  inheritance  of  the  Senecas  was  ceded  to  the  white  man. 

3-J 


old  chief  was 

so    familiarly 

; 

known  to  tlu; 

i"5» 

white  peo|)le, 

,t 

was  acquired 

through   the 

peculiarity  of 

his   d  r  c;  s  s . 
During    the 

leer   a    rirliK- 

H^ 

PORTRAIT  or  RED  JACKKT. 
rngM  wsin'i  VAiHrma  txaRAVtu  nr  OAMtOHiu. 

(fAC-aiMILK.) 


83 


T 


♦I 


I  ii 


HKLOW   TIIK   CHKHT    Fflhh. 


JllHN  M,  DUNCAN. 


(i"\l  SIKorS  nf  trcttin^r  t,,  tl,r  l..,ttoin  (if  tlic  C.rcat  l-all,  I  made  my  way 
[)  l.ilow  ovir  Mallci-fd  nx  ks,  and  siirvcyi'il  tlu;  wondrous  scfiu;  liclon-  iiif, 
miiitall)-  cnniparinj^r  llir  \i(w  (.1"  tlic  falls  from  liclow  with  that  which  1  hai!  I'lijoycd 
from  TaMcKoik.  Of  llic  maj,niiliidi;  and  force  of  thi;  dcscLMulin.ij  torrents, 
\\r  lia\i'  lure  .i  mm  h  more  im|>ressive  conception,  for  as  we  see  no  |)art  of  the 
rapids  aixivc  and  indrcd  midiin.14  of  tiie  Hood  till  it  has  l)ej,nin  its  descent  from  the 
( liff,  the  mind  is  occupied  almost  entirely  with  the  height  anil  width  and  j^jrandeur 
of  the  two  enormous  ( ascades.  We  look  up  in  amazement  at  the  unintc^rrupted 
pouring;  of  so  vast  an  accumulation  of  waters;  and  were  this  the  only  view  which 
could  !)(•  obtained,  it  would  seem  an  inscrutable  mystery  from  what  source  so 
immeasurable  a  voluuu:  of  fresh  water  could  be  constantly  poured  lorth. 

'llu'  noise  of  the  falls  is  of  course  jLjready  increased  bt-low;  indeed  it  thunders 
in  the  tar  most  overi)owerinj,dy.  I  use  the  term  i/iioi(/i'rs  for  want  of  a  more 
ai)propriale  one,  but  it  by  no  means  conveys  any  adecjuate  idea  of  the  awfully 
deep  and  uiivaryiniL,^  sound. 

'lo  heighten  tlie  sijlendor  of  the  scene,  a  maynificent  rainbow,  pencilled  on 
the  clouds  of  spray,  and  perfectly  unbroken  from  end  to  end,  overarched  the  space 
between  die  one  bank  and  the  other,  at  the  widest  part.  This  in  so  entire  a 
state  is  rather  a  rare  occurrence,  for  though  the  prismatic  colors  are  alway  visible 
tluring  sunshine,  lloating  in  little  fragments  here  and  there,  they  only  unite  into 
a  regular  bow  in  particular  positions  of  the  sun,  and  never  complete  the  semi- 
circular curve  but  when  the  air,  as  happened  on  this  occasion,  is  perfecdy  calm. 

A  beautiful  moonlight  evening  succeeded,  and  so  favorable  an  opportunity  of 
another  view  was  not  to  be  neglected.  The  moon's  r.iys  fell  directly  upon  the 
American  cascade,  lea\  ing  the  greater  part  of  the  other  fall  in  deep  shadow.  The 
spray  appeared  to  rise  in  greatly  increased  volumes,  and  the  dim  light  mingling 
with  its  haze,  and  accompanied  by  a  perceptible  increase  in  the  sound  of  the 
cataracts,  imparted  to  the  whole  a  peculiar  sublimity  which  was  wanting  in  daylight. 


•n 


llORat-SlIGt    rALLo    FROM    DELOW. 


30 


I 


I'i-f. 


I; 


i  >i 


M)  ^oroc  \[\i  ttiine.,  nor  depth c,  riiCA'^hiV  hiNntl 
f^Y*  cataract-  ctupendog  y,  duel  fierce; 


)id^l  rC(?.r  onjii^fi. 


Vliirlpcol  dte-p  Villiln  \\v{  Vallj  dolK  hlw, 
y^d,  r^iri^  'round,  jinks  doVn  in  dw'K  aI^^ 
^^  unbiovK  depth  c. 

found    Ontsvrio^  blue/  emd  Vide  doMa.irv, 
iOo  yv^cuntaine  cluck, -nor  lofry*  toMTitP^^  cWin, 
'^ine  outlet  V^t. 

U    Iht^peat  ocean'^  infinite  ^psvnse 

'^T^'/  Volu/v^e^  rest,  a.nd  Vi[k  tfer  pow/erCjtnh^c«. 
*^  ^    ^e  vdjt/deep. 


THE   OIiD   FEI^I^Y   IiJINDING. 


AMERICilN    SIDE. 


P~jUAINT  and  curious  was  the  Landinjr  of  the  ferry  on  the  American  side  fifty 
\4J  years  ago.  In  those  days  people  took  whole  weeks  to  view  the  falls,  and 
delighted  in  ascending  li;isurely  the  rugged  stairs  and  path,  stopping  and  turning 
round  almost  at  each  step  to  drink  in  the  ever-changing  glories  of  the  scene. 

"The  cliff  and  staircase  at  this  Landing,"  says  Willis,  "would  be  considered 
highly  picturesque  anywhere  but  at  the  side  of  Niagara.  The  hundred  stairs 
clinging  to  the  rock,  the  wild  vines  overgrowing  the  temporary  shed  under  which 


THE   OLD    FEPHY    LANDING  (avibi.am    si:  r  ) 


travellers  take  shelter  from  the  spray,  the  descending  and  ascending  figures,  and 
the  athletic  boatmen,  whose  occupation  of  pulling  across  this  troubled  ferry  requires 
herculean  strength  and  proportions,  all  form  a  subject  for  the  painter,  which  could 
only  be  disregarded  amid  the  engrossing  scenes  of  Niagara." 

When  th-:  mania  to  improve  Nature's  own  work  seized  the  property  owners 
around  the  falls,  the  old  landing  and  staircase  had  to  disappear  and  make  way  for 
q.iicker  means  of  transit.  This  picturescjue  old  landmark  is  gone,  and  in  its  place 
stands  the  unartistic  and  unpicturescpie  but  nevertheless  convt'nicnt  inclined  railway. 


"*}. 


pPOSTI?OPHE   TO   Nl^GJl^Jl 


Written  on  Taljlc-Hiiclt,  ny  Mm.  Signurney. 


J^IiOW  iiij  fiiivvi-f.  ill  lliy  Klii''i"ii>*  111'"' 
J^df   li'lTlif  IUmI    I  if    iHNlllly.       <i(lll    lilus   si't 

His  raiiilKiw  nil  thy  fnii'licail,  iiml  tin'  rlniids 
Miiiitl.Ml  iin>uii(l  thy  fi'i't.     Ami  He  dolli  Hiv.' 
Thy  viilfo  iif  Ihiiiirhr  |.inM'r  to  ^-pciili  ..f  Him 
KtiTiially:  - -lii'lilinj,'  lln'  lip  <if  imin 
Ki'i'p  sili'iicc.  mill  ii|Miii  thy  mrky  iiltiif,  piiiir 
InceiiKO  iif  iiwt'-strmk  piiiisc 

Ami  wlin  I'iiii  ilm-i' 
To  lift  Ih.'  iiisoci  tniinp  of  cii-thly  hope. 
f)r  lovi>.  or  sorrow,   iiiid  thf  pi'iil  siililiiiii' 
Of  thy  troiiii'iiiUiiis  hymn  !     Evi'ii  Ocriiii  sliiiiiks 
Biu-k  from  thy  lirolln'iliood,  nml  his  wiM  Wiivfs 

Il<'tiri>  iiluishi'il  ;  for  hi'  ilotli  soiiii'li s  s.'i>m 

To  sleep  like  ii  spent  liilioior,  anil  reeiill 
HiK  weiiried  Iiillows  from  the  vyiiif,'  pliiy, 
And  lull  tliem  to  a  enidle  eiilni  ;  lint   Mioil, 
With  everlastlii;;,  iindeeiiyiii^;  tide, 
Dost  rest  not   iiiKlit  nor  day. 

The  inorniiit;  stars 
WheM  lirst  lliey  s.'in(,'  o'er  yoiiiij,' neat  ion's  blrtll. 
Heard  thy  deep  aiitlieiii ;   and  those  wreekliij,'  fires 
That  wait  the  arehanKel's  sijfniil.  to  dissolve 
The  solid  oiirtli,  shall  llnd  .lehovah's  name 
Graven,  as  with  a  tlioiisami  dianioiid  spears, 


S8 


On  thine  iinfat homed  jiage.     Each  loafy  bough 
That   lifts  itself  within  thy  jiroud  dnmaiii, 
Doth  gather  greenness  from  thy  living  spray. 
And  tremble  at  the  baptism.     Lo  !  yon  birds 
Do  ventnie  boldly  near,  bathing  their  wings 
Amid  thy  fmiin  and  mist.     'Tis  meet  for  them 
To  loin-h  thy  garments  lior(>,  or  lightly  stir 
The  snowy  leaflets  of  this  vapor  wreath, 
Who  sport  unharmed  on  the  lleeoy  cloud. 
And  listen  to  the  eiihoing  gate  of  heaven 
Without  reproof.     But  n.s  for  us,  it  seems 
Scarce  lawful  with  our  broken  tones  to  .speak 
Familiarly  of  thee,     llethinks,  to  lint 
Thy  glorious  features  with  our  pencil's  point, 
Or  woo  Uiee  with  the  tablet  of  a  song. 
Were  profanation. 

Thou  dost  make  the  soul 
A  wondering  witness  of  thy  majesty  ; 
And  while  it  rushes  with  delirious  joy 
To  trend  thy  vestibule,  dost  chain  its  step. 
And  check  its  rapture,  with  the  humbling  view 
Of  its  own  nothingness,  biddhig  it  stand 
In  the  dread  presence  of  the  Invisible, 
As  if  to  answer  lo  its  (iod  throngli  thee. 


NipGpi^p, 


"  Trcmondou8  txJiTent !  for  an  Instant  hush 
Tho  terrors  of  thy  voice,  and  cast  aside 
Those  wide  involving  shadows,  that  nny  eyes 
May  see  the  fearful  l)eauty  of  thy  face  ! 

Thou  llowest  on  in  quiet,  till  thy  waves 

Grow  broken  'midst  tlio  roclcs;  thy  current  tlion 

Shoots  onward  iiite  the  irresistible  course 

Of  destiny.    Ah,  terribly  they  rage, — 

The  hoarse  and  rapid  whirlpools  tliero  !    My  brain 

Grows  wild,  my  senses  wander,  as  I  gaze 

Upon  tiie  liurrying  waters;  and  my  sight 

Vuiidy  would  follow,  as  toward  the  verge 

Sweeps  the  wide  torrent.     Waves  innumerable 

Meet  there  and  madden, —  waves  innumerable 

Urge  on  and  overtalte  the  waves  before, 

And  disappear  in  timnder  and  in  foam. 

The}'  reaeli,  they  leap  the  barrier, —  the  abyss 

Swalk)ws  insatiable  tlie  sinking  waves. 

A  tliousand  rainbows  areh  them,  and  woods 

.\re  deafened  with  the  roar.     The  violent  slioek 

Sluilters  to  vapor  the  tlescending  slieets. 

A  cloudy  wlilrhvind  lllis  the  gulf,  and  lieaves 

The  mighty  pyramid  of  cireling  mist 

To  h.>aven.  *  .  *  . 

What  seeks  my  restless  eye?    Why  arc  not  here, 

About  the  jaws  o!  this  abyss,  the  palms, — 

Ah,  the  delicious  palm?. —  that  on  the  plahis 

Of  my  own  native  Cuba  spring  and  spreml 

Their  thickly  follaged  summits  to  tlie  sun. 

Anil,  in  the  brcatliings  of  the  ocean  air 

Wave  soft  beneath  the  heaven's  unspotteil  blue? 

But  no,  Niagara, —  thy  forest  pinCs 
Are  fitter  coronal  for  thee.     The  palm. 
The  effeminate  myrtle  and  pale  rose  may  grow 
III  gardens  and  give  out  their  fragrance  there. 
Unmanning  him  who  breathes  it.     Tlilne  it  is 
To  do  a  nobler  olllce.    Generous  minds 
Reliold  thee,  and  are  moved  and  learn  to  rise 
Above  earth's  frivolous  pleasures ;  tliey  pailake 
Thy  grandeur  at  the  utterance  of  thy  name. 

Dread  torrent,  that  with  wonder  and  with  fear 
Dost  overwlieim  tlio  soul  of  him  who  looks 
Upon  thee,  and  dost  bear  it  from  itself,— 
Wlii'iico  hast  thou  thy  beginning  ?    Who  supplies 
Age  after  age,  thy  unexhausted  springs  ? 
Wliat  power  hath  ordered  that,  when  all  thy  weight 
Descends  into  the  deep,  the  swollen  waves 
Rise  not  and  roll  to  overwhelm  the  earth? 

The  Lord  hath  opened  his  omnipotent  hand, 
Covered  thy  face  with  clouds  and  given  his  voice 
To  thy  down-rushing  waters:  he  liath  girt 
Thy  terrible  forehead  witli  his  ra<lian^  bow. 
I  see  tliy  never-resting  waters  run. 
And  I  bethink  me  how  the  tide  of  time 
Sweeps  to  eternity." 

Trmulatnl  fnmi  the  Sixviish  o/  ^fari^l  Jut''  Hrmhmn, 
by  WiUimn  Vullen  lUyiinl. 


■'IKr   FORtir    PIMUS    ARt    FITTEST    CORO^fAL.■' 


80 


JlliBVM    SKETCH, 


BY    CDL,    PIIKTER. 


i! 


^ 


^/.  I^^JiN'  AIJTIST,  iinili'inonlli  his  Hij,'ii  ni  irm-itcrpii'cc,  of  coiirso) 
3'*'/;;  yX  lliiil  written,  lo  picviril  niistiiiios,  'Tliin  rcinvsi'iits  ii  liiirsi-' : 

_/ft;  Vsii  ('IT  I  si'iiil  my  AlliiMii  Ski'U'li,  IfsH  rDiiiKilrtscurs  shdiild  err, 
\jj\    I  tliink  it   Hi'ji  my  1'imi  slioiilil  lio  my  Art's  interpreter. 

"a  eliieftiiin  cif  tlie  Iicirpiols,  eliul  in  a  liison's  sliin, 


■f 


Hiiil  led  two  triivelers  tliroiiKli  tin'  wood,  La  Sallo  nnd  Ileimepiii. 
Ill'  pciiiits,  and  llioie  they,  standiiiK,  Kazc  upon  the  ceaseless  How 
or  wnliTs  falling  as  lliey  fell  two  huiidied  years  a^o. 

'Those  tliree  ari'  f,"!'"'.  'i'"'  litHe  liocd  our  worldly  gain  or  loss  - 
Tlie  Cliief,  the  Soldier  of  the  Sword,  the  Soldier  of  the  Cross. 
One  died  in  liattle,  on<^  in  lied,  and  one;  hy  .seerc';  foe; 
Hut   tlie  waters  fall  a-  once  llii'y  fell  two  hundrei!   years  ago. 

Ah,  me!  what   myriads  of  mkmi,  sinr«  then,  have  eome  and  jjone  ; 
What  stales  hiivi'  risen  and  decaypd,  what  prizes  lost  and  won; 
What   varied  trieks  thi'  .jUKf,'ler,  Time,  has  playi'd  with  all  liclow: 
l!ut   the  wali'rs  fall  iis  oiic'e  they  fell  two  hundred  years  a)>:o. 


'  What  troops  of  tourists  have  eneanipod  upon  tho  river's  lirinU  ; 
What  poets  shod  from  countless  ipiills  Niagaras  of  ink; 
What   artist  armies  tried  to  li.\  the  cvauew-ent   how 
Of  the  waters  fallinj,'  lus  they  fell  two  hundred  years  ago. 


'  .\nd  statr'ly  lulls  feed  scores  of  f^ucsts  from  well  replenished  larder, 
And  liackinon  drive  their  horses  hard,  but  drive  a  bargain  harder  ; 
And  sereaining  locomotives  rush  in  anger  to  and  fro  : 
Hut  the  waters  fall  as  once  they  fell  two  hundred  years  ago. 

'  And  luhles  of  every  age  and  elinie  freipient  the  island's  bower, 
And  gaze  from  olT  the  .stone-built  perch  —  lienci'  called  the  Bridal  Tower - 
Ami  many  a  lunar  belle  goes  forth  to  meet  a  lunar  beau, 
liy  the  waters  falling  as  they  fell  two  hundn-d  years  ago. 

'  .\iid  bridges  biml  thy  hrea.st.  O  stream  I  and  buzzing  mill-wheels  turn, 
To  show,  like  Samson,  thou  art  forced  thy  daily  bread  to  earn  ; 
And  sti'iiineis  spliush  thy  milk-while  waves,  exulting  as  they  go, 
Hnt   the  waters  fall  as  onc-e  they  fell  two  hundred  years  ago. 

'Thy  lianks  no  longer  are  the  same  that  early  travelers  found  them. 
But   break  anil  crumble  now  and  then  like  other  banks  around  them; 
And  on  their  verge  our  life  sweeps  on — alternate  joy  and  woe; 
But  the  waters  fall  as  oiwe  they  fell  two  hundred  years  ago. 

'  Thus  phantoms  of  a  by-gono  age  have  melted  like  the  spray, 
And  in  our  turn  we  too  shall  pass,  the  phantoms  of  to-day; 
But  the  armies  of  the  I'oming  time  shall  watch  the  ceaseless  flow 
Of  waters  follinf?  as  they  fell  two  hundred  years  ago." 

4U 


HEIIINI)   THE   SHEET   OF   WpTEI^. 


CHAS  ,    R.    Mil  R  HAY. 


II  ^11 


CpPTpiN   Hpiili'S   Npi^I^flTIVK. 


^sN    FIRST  coming  to  a  scene  so    stupendous    and  varied 
as  that  of  Niagara,  the  attention  is  embarrassed  !))•  tin; 
crowd  of  new  objects;  and  it  always  requires  a  cc^rtain 
degree  of  time  to  arrange  the  images  which  are  sug- 
gested, before  they  can   be   duly  appreciatiil.       After 
reaching  the  l-'alls.  we  had  still  enough  of  daylight  to 
take  a  hasty  view  of  them  before  going  to  bed;  and 
whether  it  was  owing  to  the  jolting  of  the  rough  roails, 
or  to  the  fatigue  of  over-excited  admiration,  1  do  not  know, 
but  I  soon  dropped  into  a  profound  sleej),  in  spile  of  all 
the    roaring   close   at  hand.       About  two    o'clock   in    the 
morning,  while  I  was  dreaming  of  one  particular  part  of 
the   fall,  called    the   Horse-Shoe,   which   had    struck     me 
<-  as  being  more  jiarticularly  solemn   than   all   the  rest  put 
^^  together,  I  was  awakened  by  a  feeble  cry  from  my  littk; 
girl,  and  set  off  in  quest  of  a  light.       In    groping   along 
the   passages,  I    came    accidental!)'  to  an    open    window, 
where  my  ear  was  arrested  by  the  loud  splashing  noise 
of  the  rapids  above  the  falls,  dashing  past,  immediately  under 
the  veranda.      The  deep  sound  of  the  more  distant  cascaile 
was  also  heard,  far  louder,  and  quite  different  in  kinil  from 
that  of  the  rapids.     For  the  first  time  I  became  conscious  of 
the  full  magnificence  of  the  scene. 
'tLl  The    night  was  very   dark,  though    the    stars  were    out, 

^  twinkling  and  Hashing  over  the  cataract;  and  thert:  rose  a 
damp,  earthy  smell  from  the  ground,  as  if  the  dew  had  been  settling  heavil)-  upon 
it;  or  perhaps  it  might  be  the  spray  from  the  falls.  There  was  not  the  slightest 
breath  of  wind  to  shake  the  drops  from  the  leaves,  and  I  stood  for  som(>  tinu; 
endeavoring  to  recollect  what  I  had  met  with  before  that  resembled  this.  Thc! 
hollow  sound  of  the  surf  at  Madras  was  at  length  brought  to  my  thoughts  as  the 
nearest  thing  to  it. 

ON   GOAT    ISLAND. 

The  Falls  are  divided  into  two  parts  by  Goat  Island,  on  which  we  passed  the 
greater  part  (jf  the  next  day.  We  walk(;d  round  the  Island  several  times  in 
the  course  of  the  day,  and  though  it  affords  a  great  variety  of  ailmiral)le  \  lews  of 

43 


tlu;  falls,  and  also  of  the  rapids,  l)otli  on  the  American  and  on  tlu;  English  sides  of 
tin;  river,  we  always  found  ourselves  drawn  hack  irresistibly  to  the  Great  Horse- 
Shoc,  where  the  largest  portion  of  the  stn;am  passes  on  a  concave  edge,  and  where, 
from  its  depth,  I  sujjpose,  it  actjuires  a  (](;ep  green  color,  seen  at  no  other  part 
of  the  cascade;  almost  all  the  rest  being  nearly  snow-white. 

In  hunting  for  similes  to  describe  what  we  saw  and  heard,  we  were  quite 
agreed  that  the  sound  of  the  falls  most  nearly  resembles  that  of  a  grist  mill,  of  large 
dimensions.  There  is  precisely  the  same  incessant,  rumbling,  deep,  monotonous 
s<nmd,  accompanied  by  the  tremor,  which  is  observable  in  a  building  where  many 


[jairs  of  millstones 
are  at  work.  This 
tremulous  effect 
extc^nds  to  the  dis- 
tance of  several 
hundred  yards 
from  the  river;  but 
is  most  conspicu- 
ous on  Goat  Is- 
land, which  stands 
in  the  center  be- 
t w e en  the  t w o 
falls.  The  noise 
of  the  rapids  is 
also  loud,  but 
much  sharper,  and 
varies  a  good  deal 
with  the  situation 
of  the  listener. 
We  were  walking 
one  day  along  a 
path  in  the  woods 
on   the  island,  at 


OK  OOAT  ISLAND. 


some  distance 
from  the  Great 
Cataract,  and 
there,  it  struck  me, 
the  sound  of  the 
rapids  resembled 
not  a  little  the 
noise  caused  by  a 
heavy  shower  of 
rain  on  the  leaves 
of  a  forest  in  a 
calm. 

The  scenery  in 
the  neighborhood 
of  Niagara  has, 
in  itself,  little  or 
no  interest,  and 
has  been  rendered 
still  less  attractive 
by  the  erection  of 
hotels,  paper 
manufactories, 
saw-mills,   and 


numerous  other  raw,  staring,  wooden  edifices.  Perhaps  it  is  quite  as  well  that  it 
should  be  so;  because  any  scenery  which  should  be  in  keeping  with  the  grand  object 
which  gives  its  character  to  this  wonderful  spot,  would,  in  all  probability,  diminish 
the  effect  produced  by  its  standing  on  its  own  merits. 

THE    FIRST   GOAT   ISLAND    BRIDGE. 

It  has  been  said  that  there  is  always  something  about  a  bridge  which  interests, 
more  or  less.  If  it  be  not  picturesque  in  itself,  it  may  be  curious  iii  its  structure, 
or   high,  or  long,  or  may  possess  something  or  other  to   attract  notice.      At  all 


V1£\V  OF   NIAGARA    FALLS    FROM   PROSPECT   POINT 

(aHCIUCAH    ftlBc). 


45 


^1 


iviiits,  tlic  hridj^'o  wliicli  c()nnc(  Is  tln'  m.iiii  AnnTican  slion;  with  (loat  Isl.uul  is  onr. 
of  tlif  innsi  siii^MiI.ir  |ii(((s  of  ciiifinccrini,'  in  the  world,  ami  sliows,  not  only  much 
in;,'iiiiiitj,  l)iit  lioidncss  of  tiioii,i,dit  in  its  projector,  tlic  owni.-r  of  the  island.  It  is 
lictwccn  six  and  seven  hundred  feet  in  lenLjtii,  and  is  thnjwn  across  one  of  thi;  worst 
|i,irts  of  thi-  ra|)ids,  not  more  than  fifty  yards  ahov(;  the  crest  of  the  American  l''ail. 
It  is  made  of  wood,  and  consists  of  seven  straij,dit  portions,  restinjr  on  wooden  piers, 
so  ( ()ntri\(  d  as  to  have  perfect  stai)ility,  althonj,di  the  foundation  on  which  they  rest 
is  extremely  imeiiual.  The  hed  of  the  river  at  that  place  is  covered  with  roundeil 
and  anj^MiI.ir  nuks  of  irrei^ular  sizes.  Alonjr  this  rugged  and  steep  bottom  the  riv(!r 
dashes  in  a  torrent,  covtTcd  with  hreakc^rs  and  foam,  at  the  rate  of  six  or  seven 
miles  an  hour,  making  a  noise  not  unlike  that  of  the  s(;a  on  a  shallow  leilgc;  of 
rocks.  On  the  evening  of  the  same  day  wc  drove  towanls  Lake  Ontario  for  six 
or   seviii  miles   on   i\u:   right  bank  of  the   Niagara,  and  tluMi  crossed  over  tf)  th(; 

Canada  shore  at  (Jueenstown.     Close   to 
the  spot  where  we  landed  then;  stands  a 
monument  to  the  gallant  Cieneral   Hrock, 
who    was    killed    during    the    battle    of 
Queenstown,  in  the    act    of   repelling   an 
invasion  of  the  frontier  by  the  Americans 
during  the  war  of  1812.     The  view  from 
the   top   of  the  monument   extended    far 
over   Lake   Ontario,  and   showed    us    the 
windings  of  the  Niagara  through  the  low 
and    wooded    country  which    hangs 
like    a   rich  green  fringe  along  the 
southern  skirt  of  that  great  sheet  of 
water.     By  the  time  wc  reached  the 
inn,  close  to  the  falls  on  the  Englislh 
side,  we    had  barely   light    enough 
left  to  see  the  cataract  from  the  bal- 
cony of  our  bedroom — distant  from 
it,  in  a  straight  line,  not  a  couple  of 
hundred    yards.      I    cannot  bring  myself  to 
attempt  any  description  of  the  pleasure  which 
we  experienced,  while  thus  sitting   at   ease, 
and   conscious   of  viewing,   in    sober    reality, 
and  at  leisure,  an  object  with  which  wc  had 
been  familiar,  in  fancy  at  least,  all  our  lives. 
The  Falls  of  Niagara  infinitely  exceeded  our 
anticipations,  and  fulfilled  our  expectations. 

4*i 


U^tlUiJkoVv^  sM~v»Jt<'«V- 


IMPI^KSSIONS. 


.u\MF.  a  s  Til  Rirr. 


Y|7l  I  E  V\  RS  r  sijLjIlt  only  intrcasL'cl  our  dcsiro  to  have  tlu"  whole  scene  iinloKleil. 
'!"'  We  luirrii;cl  to  the  Taljle-Rock,  which  projects  and  looks  over  the  falls,  and  to 
the  other  stations  on  the  Canada  side  of  the  river.  W'r.  afterward  crossed  tlu;  river 
in  a  small  boat,  about  200  or  300  yards  below  die  falls,  saw  them  from  the 
American  side,  and  from  Goat  Island,  and  hardly  (juitted  the  spot  while  daylii,dit 
remained.     The  overwhelminij  sensations,  with  which  a  spectator  can  hardly  fail  to 


be  affected,  are 
produced  by  the 
immense  flood,  — 
not  less  than  100 
millions  of  tons  of 
water  per  hour, — 
the  stupendous 
mass,  and  over- 
powerinjif  force  of 
the  roaring  and 
falling  waters.  It 
is  in  truth  a  great 
deep  ocean,  thrown 
over  a  precipice 
160  feet  high. 
Every  thing,  every 
surrounding  object, 
is  viewed  with 
indifference,  while 
the  mind  is  wholly 
absorbed  in  the 
contemplation  of  a 
a  spectacle   so 


PROSI'KCT    FOINT    IN    laa.') 


sublime, —  surpass- 
ing in  majesty,  anil 
grandeur,  a  n  d 
power,  all  the  works 
of  nature  which 
have  ever  arresteil 
the  attention,  or 
presented  them- 
selves to  the  imagi- 
nation. No  just  or 
adequate  descrip- 
tion can  be  con- 
veyed by  language. 
Such  words  as 
grandeur,  majesty, 
sublimity,  fail  alto- 
gether to  express 
the  feelings  which 
so  magnificent  a 
sight,  exceeding  so 
immeasurably  all 
of  the  same  kind 
that  we  have  ever 


seen  or  imagined,  excites.     Truly,  as  the  poet  says,  the  eye  of  man  must  see  this 
miracle  to  comprehend  it,  or  the  feelings  it  produces. 

The  great  volume  of  water,  of  course,  inclines  very  much  forward  in  its  descent, 
projecting  about  fifty  feet  from  the  base,  and  falls,  for  the  most  part  of  the  perpen- 
dicular height,  in  an  unbrok  ^n  sheet  of  dark  green  color,  until  it  meets  a  cloud  of 
spray  ascending  from  the  rocks  below,  in  which  it  is  lost  to  the  eye. 


47 


TIIK    UOI^iSK-iSIlOK    FJIhh, 


I!  h 


'\\ 


^1 


I     I.:     |i 


(I 


N      I'.    Wl  l.t.IS, 

fill'.   II(>KSI.   SIlOl',  lA  I.I.,  iis  .1  sini^lf  i)iij<(t,  is  iim|ucsti()nal)ly 

tile  siililiiiusi  tiling'  in  iiutiirc.      In  know  llial  the  anj^'lc  of  ihc  cataract, 

lioni  tlir  liiilisli  shore  to  llic  to\v<T,  is  iifar  IkiII"  a  mile  in  lcnj,flh  ;   that 

it  falls  so  ni.my  fret  with  so  many  tons  of  watir  a  niinntc  ;  or  even  to 

SIC  it,  as  here,  ailmirahly  n'lircscntctl  by  tin:  |)rncil ;  conveys  no  ick-a 

to  the  reader  of  the  impression  produced  on  the  spectator.     One  of   the 

i\uisi  riinarkahle  thinj^-'s  ahont  Niaj,Mra  is  entirely  lost  in  the  drawinj,'  - 

its  »n)tioii.      The   visitor  to  Niai,'ara  should  devote;  t)ne  day  exclusively  to 

till'  observation  of  this  astonishintj  fealiin;. 

The  broad  Hood  ^diihs  out  of  Lake  lirie  with  a  (onl'idint^  tramr  y 
that  seems  to  you,  when  you  know  its  impendin,;^'  destiny,  like  th; 
human  creature  advancing  i.resistibly,  but  unconsciousl)',  to  his  di.'ai.n. 
He  cmbraics  tiie  brij^dit  islands  that  part  his  arms  for  a  caress;  takes  into  his 
bosom  the  calm 'tribute  of  the  Tonewanta  and  Unneku(|ua  —  small  streams  that 
come  drowsini,'  through  the  wilderness  —  and  Hows  on,  till  he  has  left  Lake;  lilrie 
far  behind,  batliinL,^  the  curving  sides  of  his  green  shores  with  a  surface  which  only 
tlie  summer  wind  ruffles.  The  channel  begins  to  descend;  the  still  unsuspecting 
waters  fall   bac  k   into  curling  eddies  along  the  banks,  but  tht:  current  in  the  centre 

m 

tlows  smoothly  still.  Suddenly  the  powerful  stream  is  lUmg  with  accumulated  swift- 
ness among  broken  rocks  ;  and,  as  you  watch  it  from  below,  it  seems  tossed  with 
the  first  shock  into  the  viry  sky.  It  tlescends  in  foam,  and  from  this  moment  its 
agony  commences. 

I'Or  three  miles  it  tosses  and  resists,  and,  racked  at  every  step  by  sharper 
rocks  and  increased  rapidity,  its  unwilling  and  choked  waves  tly  back,  to  be  again 
precipitateil  onward,  and  at  last  reach  the  glossy  curve  convulsed  with  supernatural 
horror.  They  touch  the  emerald  arch,  and  in  that  instant,  like  the  calm  that  fol- 
lows the  conviction  of  inevitable  doom,  the  agitation  ceases, —  the  waters  pause, — 
the  foam  and  resistance;  subside  into  a  transparent  stillness, — and  —  slowly  and 
soK  innly  the  vexed  and  tormented  sufferer  drops  into  the  abyss. 

livery  spectator,  every  child,  is  .struck  with  the  singular  deliberation,  the 
unnatural  slowni;ss,  with  which  the  waters  of  Niagara  take  their  plunge.  The 
laws  of  gravitation  setin  suspended,  and  tin;  sublimity  of  the  tremendous  gulf 
below  seems  to  check  the  descending  victim  on  the  verge,  as  if  it  paused  in 
AWKi.—.lmcrican  Scenery. 

48 


40 


}l    THI^IhLlNG   E8(^fiPE, 


WM  ,    HHSrfi    B  ALi.nu 


^TT   PARTY  of  four,  incliidini,^  the  writer,  made  a  survey  of  the  interior  of  the 

yl  ( aiiyon  from  Lewisloii  to  the  Suspension  liridire.     The  perils  of  such  a  passajre 

are  known  to  but  few,  and  can  only  be  realized  by  the  darinjj  adventurer  who  may 

umlertake  it  for  himself.     Inde(;d,  the  foot  of  man  scarcely  ever  treads  this  infernal 

rej,n()n,  where  on  every  hand  one  is  beset  by  untold  difficulties.     With  t,'rcat  caution 

\\v  tlamlnretl  along,  making  a  fearful  \ et  intensely  exciting  exploration.     At  times 

the  river  would  rise  suddenly  some  ten  or  fifteen  feet,  as  if 

some  ilam  above  had  broken,  causing  a  hasty  retieat  up  the 

<  anjon's   sides.     I'Vom  points  above  loose  fragments  of   *"?• 

rocks  precipitated  themselves,  causing  a  lively  scat- 

ti^ring  beneath.     An   occasional  rattlesnake  leaped        .     '^^    , 

from  his  den  in  astonishment  at  such  intrusion,  only  i>^"^,^j^ 

to  yield  his  life  as  a  penalty.     Here  and  there 

gigantic    bowlders    reared    their   heads   from 

the  water's  edge,  necessitating  a  difficult  and 

ilangcrous  passagt;  around  or 

over.     Once  the  writer  saw  a 

biril's  nest  on  the  extremity 

of  an  alder,  which  leaner'  well 

over   the    seething,    whirling 

waters.    Our  approach  caused 

a  rare  sparrow  to  flit  away  in 

alarm.   Without  thought,  save 

of  the   acfjuisition    of   a   rare   ngg,    I 

threw  by  my  coat  and  sprang  into  the 

branches.      I   had   gone  but  half  way 

out  on  the   limb  when  a  wild  cry  of 

alarm  :aused  me  to  look  around,  just 

in  time  to  see  the  roots  of  the  little  tree 

being  wrenched  from  their  place  by  my 

weight  and  the  fierce  current.     I  gave  a  spring  and  landed  safely,  just  in  the  instant 

as  the  tree  fell  into  the  waters  and  was  hurried  out  of  sight.    Getting  into  the  canyon 

at  Lewiston  was  comparatively  easy,  but  making  one's  way  out  near  the  Falls  was 

another  thing.     Nearly  a  mile  below  Devaux  College,  situated  a  little  north  of  the 

railway  bridge,  the  possibility  of  making  our  way  along  the  river's  edge  ceased. 

Night  was  approaching,  and  a  day's  hard  work  would  be  required  to  reach  Lewiston, 

5U 


LEWISTON    FROM   THE    MOUNTAIN 


at  the  foot  of  the  canyon,  from  which  point  \vc  ontcnd.  Al)ovc,  the  rocks  towi-red 
several  hundred  feet.  We  had  the  alternative  of  remaining  in  the  j^orge  ovt;r  nij^ht, 
where  life  was  momentarily  uncertain,  or  of  fighting  our  wa)-  ovit  an  almost  impass- 
able passage  to  the  foot  of  the  stt^ps  leading  down  from  the  college.  We  determined 
to  accept  the  latter.  After  an  hour's  climb  over  tangled  masses  of  fallen  trees,  logs, 
and  bowlders,  we  made  our  way  to  a  narrow  ridge,  one  hundred  feet  from  the  top, 
formed  of  fallen  debris.  The  scene  from  this  point  beggared  d(.'scriiJtion.  Beneath 
was  one  frightful  mass  of  rocks  and  trees.  One  false  step  antl  the  fated  indiviilual 
would  have  plunged  to  a  horrible  doom.  We  followed  the  ridge  for  perhaps  a  half 
mile,  when  it  came  to  an  abrupt  termination.  In  front  were  bare  walls  of  perpen- 
dicular rocks,  extending  from  the  top  one  hundred  feet  above,  straight  down  to  the 
rushing  waters  two  hundreu  feet  below.  The  interim  to  be  crossed,  if  possible,  was 
several  rods  in  breadth.  Despair  stalked  abroad  on  every  side.  The  setting  sun 
cast  his  flickering  rays  upon  an  almost  certain  doom  to  the  daring  mortal  who  should 
attempt  that  passage.  Just  above  our  heads  a  crevice  in  the  rocks  was  discovered 
which  seemed  to  cross  the  face  of  the  rocks.  The  thought  of  passing  it  was  startling, 
but  hurriedly  agreed  upon.  There  seemed  to  be  room  for  the  toes  to  cling,  but  the 
chances  of  a  place  for  the  hands  seemed  slender  and  treacherous. 

The  various  instruments  were  divided  among  the  party  by  lot,  the  box  contain- 
ing the  heavy  theodolite  falling  to  the  writer.  The  tallest  clambered  on  to  the  crevice 
first,  the  others  assisting  and  following,  until  the  writer,  smallest  and  last,  was  safely 
drawn  up.  A  perilous  and  cautiou.^  passage  began.  The  face  of  the  rock  was 
slippery,  and  the  niches  where  the  hand  could  cling  few  and  far  between.  One 
carrying  a  coat  on  his  arm,  in  a  moment  of  trepidation  let  the  garment  fall,  and  in 
an  instant  it  was  whirled  out  of  sight  by  the  seething  waters  below.  Another 
unloosed  a  bowlder,  which  took  a  frightful  plunge  downward,  Jeaving  a  great  open 
space  beneath.  By  mutual  assistance  all  had  safely  pasted  across,  when  the  writer, 
with  the  heavy  instrument  upon  his  back,  was  midway  on  the  pr.ssage.  Here  a 
sharp  point  of  rock,  just  breast  high,  impe  led  the  way.  In  attempting  to  get  around 
this,  the  foot  failed  to  find  a  resting  place.  To  get  under  was  impossible — above 
there  was  no  fingerhold.  The  heavy  instrument  behind  seemed  to  weigh  down  like 
a  mountain,  and  was  rapidly  displacing  the  point  of  balance.  The  slender  hold  was 
relaxing;  loo  feet  above  was  the  calm,  safe  world — 250  below,  the  merciless  waters. 
One  foot  slipped  off,  and  was  going  down  —  down  ;  a  mist  came  over  the  eyes  and 
all  seemed  lost,  when  the  foot  caught  on  a  slender  bush,  a  hand  grasped  the  back  and 
drew  me  on  to  a  firm  footing.  Just  then  the  sun  sank  from  sight,  but  not  until  he 
saw  the  adventurers  safe  on  the  steps  of  the  college. 


61 


fl   (il^KflT   CONCEPTION. 


HaTHAUHRIAM),  the  illustrious  French  author, 
clurini,^  a  visit  which  occurred  toward  the  beginning 
of  this  century,  had  almost  a  miraculous  escape 
from  being  thrown  over  the  precipice  above  th(! 
fidls.  "On  his  arrival  he  had  repaired  to  the? 
I'alls,  having  the  bridle  of  his  horse  twisted  round 
his  arm.  While  he  was  stooping  to  look  down,  a 
rattlesnake  stirred  among  the  neighboring  bushes, 
the  horse  was  startled,  reared,  and  ran  back  toward 
the  ab)ss.  I le  could  not  disengage  his  arm  from 
the  bridle,  and  the  horse,  more  and  more  frightened,  dragged  him  after  him.  The 
animal's  fore-legs  wen:  all  but  oft"  the  ground,  and  squatting  on  the  brink  of  the 
precipice,  he  was  upheld  merely  by  the  bridle.  Astonished  at  this  new  danger,  the 
horse  threw  himself  forward  with  a  pirouette,  and  sprang  to  the  distaiice  of  ten  feet 
from   the  i-di:!;v.  of  the  al))ss." 

(iustave  Dorc.  as  great  in  the  world  of  art  as  Chateaubriand  in  that  of  liter- 
ature, found  a  source  of  inspiration  in  the  writings  of  the  latter,  whose  description  in 
"(itnie  du  Christianisme  "  undoubtedly  furnished  the  material  for  Uore's  great 
concejition  of  Niagara   Fails. 

"  IVom  Lake  \inv  to  the  Falls  the  river  bed  descends  very  rapidly,  and  at  the 
point  where  the  watirs  taki;  their  leap,  it  is  less  a  river  than  an  ocean,  whose  (loods 
luirr)  into  the  yawning  gulf  below.  The  cataract  is  divided  into  two  portions,  and 
is  curved  in  the  form  of  a  horse-shoe.  An  island  juts  out  between  the  two  falls, 
which  is  hollowetl  out  underneath,  and  hangs  suspended  with  all  its  trees  over  the 
chaos  of  waters.  The  mass  of  water  which  falls  in  the  center  rounds  out  like  a 
great  cylinder,  and  then  unrolls  in  a  snowy  sheet,  which  glistens  with  every  color 
in  the  sunshine.  That  on  the  east  side  falls  into  fritghtful  shades  —  a  very  deluge 
of  water.  A  thousantl  rainbows  curve  and  cross  each  other  over  the  abyss. 
I'he  water  striking  the  unyielding  rock  rebounds  in  whirlwinds  of  vapor,  which  rise 
above  the  forest  like  the  smoke  of  a  vast  contlagration.  Tall  pines  and  hickories 
and  phantom-like  rocks  decorate  the  scene.  Eagles  are  carried  whirling  down  to 
the  bottom  of  the  gulf,  dragged  down  by  the  current  of  air." 


^'^j^S*' 


52 


DORRT.   KIAGAnA. 


OFFENBpCH  ON   NlJlQ^Jl^Jl. 


rriim  NntBs  ul  a  TravElllna  Musltlaii. 


w- 


t«i:i 


M 


I^UCH  has  been  written  on  the  subject  of  this  wonderful  waterfall,  but  no 
one  has  yet  b(;en  able  to  descrilie  the  impression  produced  by  the  sight 
of  the  great  stream  at  the  inoment  when  it  leaps  headlong,  from  a  height 
of  a  hundred  and  fifty  feet,  into  the  fathomless  abyss  beneath.  The  view  of  that 
vast  amphitheatre,  of  that  prodigious  volume  of  water,  breaking  into  foam,  with 
a  roar  of  thunder,  like  the  hug(!  tidal  wave  that  follows  an  earthquake,  made  me 
giddy,  and  caused  me  to  forget  all  I  had  ever  read,  all  I  had  ever  heard,  and 
all  that  had  ever  sugg(,'sted  itself  to  my  imagination.  Tiiis  diluvial  torrent,  framed 
within  the  wildest  scenery,  surrounded  by  lofty  trees  of  the  deepest  green,  upon 
which  a  shower  of  spray  is  constantly  falling  like  perpetual  dew,  defies  photography, 
painting,  or  description.  In  order  to  describe,  there  must  be  some  point  of 
com|)arison.  To  what  can  Niagara  be  compared,  diat  unrivalled,  everlasting 
phenomenon,  to  the  magnificence  of  which  we  can  never  become  accustomed! 

While  we  were  absorbed  in  the  contemplation  of  this  wonder  — 

"  This  is  the  spot,"  said  our  guide,  "  where  an  Indian  met  with  his  fate  a 
fortnight  ago.  Carried  away  by  the  current,  the  slight  craft  that  held  him  was 
drawing  near  to  the  b'alls,  notwithstanding  all  his  efforts.  The  Indian,  feeling  his 
strength  giving  way,  saw  that  he  was  lost.  He  ceased  to  struggle,  wrapped  himself 
up  in  his  red  blanket  as  in  a  shroud,  and  laid  himself  down  in  the  bottom  of  his 
boat.  A  few  secomis  after  he  was  on  the  crest  of  the  gigantic  wave,  and  was 
shot  with  the  rapidity  of  liglitning  into  tiiis  watery  grave,  covered  with  a  mist  of 
immaculate  white." 

After  hearing  the  story  of  this  catastrophe,  so  fearful,  yet  so  grand,  I  could 
not  help  envying  the  fate  of  the  imfortunate  red-skin,  and  I  wondered  that  all 
Americans  in  distress  did  not  prefer  the  I\dls  of  Niagara  to  the  insipid  revolver. 
After  having  long  enjoyed  this  wond(>rful  spectacle,  I  crossed  the  bridge  and  set 
foot  on  Canadian  soil.  Here,  I  had  been  told,  I  would  see  Indians.  I  expected 
to  find  savages,  and  was  surprised  to  find  only  dealers  in  bric-a-brac.  They  were 
hideous,  I  confess;  they  looked  quite  ferocious,  I  admit  also:  but  I  doubt  whether 
thi'y  were  genuine  Indians.  However  that  may  be,  they  surrounded  me  on  all 
sides,  offered  mc  bamboos,  fans,  cigar-holders,  and  pocket-books  of  a  doubtful  taste. 
They  reminded  me  of  the  Indians  of  the  forest  of  Fontainebleau  who  sell  pen- 
holders and  paper-knives. 

Nevertheless,  I  made  a  ktw  purchases;  but  I  verily  believe  that  I  brought  back 
into  l^Vance  some  curiosities  which  had  been  procured  at  the  selling  out  of  some 
Parisian  bazar. 


54 


H' 


THE  HEI^MIT  OF   THE   FJILLkS. 


MRS,    SIDOURNEY. 


URING  the  year  1829,  in  the  glow  of  early 
summer,  a  young  stranger,  of  pleasing  counte- 
nance and  person,  made  his  appearance  at 
Niagara.  It  was  at  first  conjectured  that  he 
might  be  an  artist,  as  a  large  portfolio,  with 
1  books    and    musical    instruments,    were    observed 


among  his  baggage.  He  was  deeply  impressed 
by  the  majesty  and  sublimity  of  the  Cataract,  and 
its  surrounding  scenery,  and  expressed  an  intention 
to  remain  a  week,  that  he  might  examine  it  accurately.  But 
the  fascination  which  all  minds  of  sensibility  feel,  in  the  pres- 
3  ence  of  that  glorious  work  of  the  Creator,  grew  strongly  upon  him, 
and  he  was  heard  to  say,  that  six  weeks  were  inadequate  to  become 
acquainted  with  its  outlines.  At  the  end  of  that  period  he  was  still 
unable  to  tear  himself  away,  and  desired  to  build  there  a  tabernacle, 
that  he  might  indulge  both  in  his  love  of  solitary  musings  and  of 
nature's  sublimity.  He  applied  for  a  spot  upon  the  island  of  the  Three  Sisters, 
where  he  might  construct  a  cottage  after  his  own  model,  which  comprised,  among 
other  peculiarities,  isolation  by  means  of  a  draw-bridge.  Circumstances  forbidding 
a  compliance  with  his  request,  he  took  up  his  residence  in  an  old  house  upon  this 
island,  which  he  rendered  as  comfortable  as  the  state  of  the  case  would  admit.  Here 
he  continued  about  twenty  months,  until  the  intrusion  of  a  family  interrupted  his 
recluse  habits.  He  then  quiedy  withdrew,  and  reared  for  himself  a  less  commodious 
shelter,  near  Prospect  Point.  His  simple  and  favorite  fare  of  bread  and  milk  was 
readily  purchased,  and  whenever  he  required  other  food,  he  preferred  to  prepare  it 
with  his  own  hands. 

When  bleak  winter  came,  a  cheerful  fire  of  wood  blazed  upon  his  hearth,  and 
by  his  evening  lamp  he  beguiled  the  hours  with  the  perusal  of  books  in  various 
languages,  and  with  sweet  music.  It  was  almost  surprising  to  hear,  in  such  depth 
of  solitude,  the  long  drawn,  thrilling  tones  of  the  viol,  or  the  softest  melodies  of  the 
flute,  gushing  •  forth  from  that  low-browed  hut,  or  the  guitar,  breathing  out  so 
lighdy,  amid  the  rush  and  thunder  of  the  never-slumbering  tide. 

Yet,  though  the  world  of  letters  was  familiar  to  his  mind,  and  the  living 
world  to  his  observation,  for  he  had  travelled  widely,  both  in  his  native  Kurope  and 
the  East,  he  sought  not   association  with  mankind,  to   unfold  or   to  increase    his 

53 


i; 


!:• 


(  , 


stores  of  knowl<'di,n-.  Those  who  luul  heard  him  converse,  spoke  with  surprise  and 
athiiiration  of  liis  (oIi()(|uiaI  powers,  his  conim;ind  of  lan,i^iia<,fe,  and  the  spirit  of 
eloeincnt  e  that  (lowed  from  his  h|)s.  Hut  lie  scklom  and  sparin.t,dy  admitt(;d  this 
intercourse,  studiousi)  avoiding,'-  s(k  iel_\-,  UiouL,di  thire  seemed  in  his  nature  nothing 
of  nioroseiiess  or  misaiuliropy.  On  the  contrary,  he  showed  kinihiess  even  to  the 
huml)k'st  aniniak  Hirds  instinctively  learned  it,  aad  freely  entereil  his  dwellinj^f  to 
riccivc  from  his  hands  crumhs  or  seeds. 

Hut  the  alisorhini,^  dclii^dit  of  his  existence,  was  communion  with  the  mighty 
NiaL,^u-a.  Here,  at  every  hour  of  the  day  or  night,  he  might  be  seen  a  fervent 
worsiiipper.  At  gr.iy  dawn  hi' went  to  visit  it  in  its  tleecy  veil;  at  high  noon,  he 
l)an(|ueted  on  the  full  splendor  of  its  glory;  beneath  the;  soft  tinting  of  the  lunar 
bow  he  lingenil,  looking  for  the  angel's  wing  whose  pencil  had  painted  it;  at 
solenni  midniL,dit.  he  knelt,  soul-subdued,  as  on  the  foot-stijol  of  Jehovah.  Neither 
storms,  nor  the  piercini,^  cold  (,f  winter,  preventetl  his  visits  to  this  great  temple  of 
his  .idoration.  • 

When  tile  frozen  mists,  gathering  upon  the  lofty  trees,  seemed  to  have 
transmuted  them  to  < olumns  of  alabaster;  when  every  branch  and  shrub,  and  spray, 
glittering  with  iranspaniu  ice,  waved  in  the  sunbeam  its  coronet  of  diamonds,  he 
gazed,  unconscious  of  the  keen  atmosphere,  charmed  and  chaincMJ  by  the  rainbow- 
cinctured  Cataract.  Ills  feet  had  worn  a  beaten  ])ath  from  his  cottage  thither. 
There  was,  at  that  time  an  extension  of  the  IcTrapin  Bridge  by  a  single  shaft  of 
timber,  carrieil  out  ten  feet  over  the  fathomless  abyss,  where  it  hung  tremulously, 
guarded  onl\'  by  a  rutle  parapet. 

To  this  point  he  often  passed  ami  repassed,  amid  the  darkness  of  the  night. 
He  even  took  pleasure  in  gras])ing  it  with  his  hands,  and  thus  suspending  himself 
over  th<'  awful  gulf;  so  much  had  his  morliid  enthusiasm  learned  to  feel,  and  wen 
to  revel,  amid  the  terriblx  sublime. 

Among  his  favorite,  daily  gratifications  was  that  of  bathing.  The  few  who 
interestetl  themselves  in  his  welfare,  supposed  that  he  pursued  it  to  excess,  and 
protracted  it  after  the  severity  of  the  weaUier  rendered  it  hazardous  to  health. 

He  scooped  out,  and  arranged  for  himself  a  secluded  and  romantic  bath, 
between  Moss  and  Iris  islands.  Afterw;irds.  Ik;  formed  tlu;  habit  of  bathing  below 
the  principal  i'all.  One  bright,  but  rather  chilly  ilay,  in  die  month  of  June,  1831,  a 
man  emplovid  ajjout  the  I"erry.  saw  him  go  into  the  water,  anil  a  long  time  after, 
observcid  his  clothes  to  bi-  still  lying  upon  th(!  bank. 

Incpiiry  was  made.  The  anxiety  was  but  too  well  founded.  The  poor  hermit 
had  indeed  taken  his  last  bath.  It  was  su|)|K)sed  that  cramp  might  have  been 
induced  by  the  unwonted  chill  of  the  atmosphere  or  water.  Still  the  body  was  not 
ft**ind,  the  depth  and  force  of  the  current  just  below  being  exceedingly  great.  In 
the  cyurse    of  their    search,  they  passed  onward    to  the  Whirlpool.      There,  amid 


: 


lliosc  hoiliii;,'  cddiis,  was  the  pallid  cDrpsc,  makintj  fearful  and  rapid  j^yrations  upon 
the  face  of  the  IiLk  k  waters.  At  some  point  of  suction,  it  suddenly  plunjj^cd  and 
disappeared.  A<,'ain  emerLjini,'.  it  was  fearful  to  see  it  leap  half  its  !(;n,Ljth  abovt;  the 
tiood,  and  with  a  fare  so  deadly  pale,  play  amonj.,'  the  tossinj^r  billows,  then  float 
motionless,  as  if  exhausted,  and  anon  returnin^f  to  the  encounter,  sprint^,  strii,ij}^!e, 
and  ( (intend  like  a  niani.ic  liattlinij  with  mortal  foes. 

It  was  strani,Ml\  painful  to  think  that  he;  was  not  permitted  to  find  a  j^rave 
e\in  beneath  the  w.iters  he  had  loved;  that  all  the  i,^entleness  and  charity  of  his 
nature,  should  be  ehanjf<d  by  death  to  the  fury  of  a  madman;  and  that  the  kin},'  of 
terrors  who  lirin^s  repose  to  the  despot,  and  the  man  of  blood,  should  teach  warfare 


to  him  who  had  e\-er  worn  the  meekness  of  the  lamb.  For  dajs  and  nights  this 
terrible  pur<,ratory  was  prolonj,red.  It  was  on  the  twenty-first  of  June.  that,  after 
man>  efforts,  the)-  were  enableil  to  bear  the  weary  dead  back  to  his  desolate  cottajje. 
Ihere  they  found  his  faithful  d<)<r  n-uardins,'  the  door.  Heavily  the  long 
IJeriod  had  worn  away,  while  he  watched  for  his  only  friend  and  wondered  why  he 
delayed  his  et>min.<,^  lie  "scrutinized  the  approaching  group  suspiciously,  and  would 
not  willingly  have  given  them  admittance,  save  that  a  low,  stilled  wail  at  length 
announc»-d  his  intuitive  knowledge  of  the  master,  whom  the  work  of  death  had 
effectually  disguised  from  the  e)  es  of  men. 


08 


They  laid  him  on  his  bed,  the  thick,  dripping;  masses  of  his  l)eaiitifiil  hair  clinjj- 
ing  to  and  veiHng  the  features  so  late  expressive  and  comely.  On  tlic  pillow  was 
his  pet  kitten;  to  her,  also,  the  watch  for  the  master  had  been  long  anil  wearisome. 

In  his  chair  lay  the  guitar,  whose  melody  was  probably  the  last  that  his  ear  had 
heard  on  earth.  There  were  also  his  flute  and  violin,  his  portfolio  and  books, 
scattered  and  open,  as  if  recently  used.  On  the  spread  table  was  the  untasted  meal 
for  noon,  which  he  had  prepared  against  his  return  from  that  bath  which  had  proved 
so  fatal.  It  was  a  touching  sight;  the  doad  hermit  mourned  by  his  humble 
retainers,  the  poor  animals  who  loved  him,  and  ready  to  be  laid  by  stranger-hands 
in  a  foreign  grave. 

So  fell  this  singular  and  accomplished  being,  at  the  early  age  of  twent) -cighl. 
Learned  in  the  languages,  in  tiie  arts  and  sciences,  improved  by  extensive  travel, 
gifted  with  personal  beauty,  and  a  feeling  heart,  the  motives  for  this  estrangement 
from  his  kind  arc  still  enveloped  in  mystery.  It  was,  however,  known  that  he  was 
a  native  of  England,  where  his  father  was  a  clergyman;  that  he  receivtjd  from 
thence  ample  remittances  for  his  comfort;  and  that  his  name  v.as  Francis  Abbot. 
These  facts  had  been  previously  ascertained,  but  ncj  written  pa|)ers  were  found  in 
his  cell,  to  throw  additional  light  upon  the  obscurity  in  which  he  had  so  effectually 
wrapped  the  history  of  his  pilgrimage. 

That  he  was  neither  an  ascetic  nor  a  misanthrope,  has  been  sufficiently  proved. 
Why  he  should  choose  to  withdraw  from  society,  which  he  was  so  well  fitted  to 
benefit  and  adorn,  must  ever  remain  unexplained.  That  no  crinu'  had  driven  him 
thence,  his  blameless  and  pious  life  bore  witness  to  all  who  knt!W  him. 

It  might  seem  that  no  plan  of  seclusion  had  been  deliberately  formeil,  until 
enthusiastic  ailmiration  of  the  unparalleled  scenery  among  which  he  was  cast, 
induced  and  for  two  years  had  given  it  permanence.  And  if  any  one  could  be 
justified  for  withdrawing  from  life's  active  duties,  to  dwell  awhile  with  solitude  and 
contemplation,  would  it  not  be  in  a  spot  like  this,  where  Nature  ever  speaks  audibly 
of  her  majestic  and  glorious  Author? 

We  visited,  in  the  summer  of  1844,  the  deserted  abode  of  the  hermit.  It  was 
partially  ruinous,  but  we  traced  out  its  different  compartments,  and  the  hearth-stone 
where  his  winter  (evenings  passed  amid  books  and  music,  his  faithful  tlog  at  his  feet, 
and  on  his  knee  his  playful,  happy  kitten. 

At  our  entrance,  a  pair  of  nesting  birds  flew  forth  affrighted.  Mi;thought  they 
were  fitting  representatives  of  that  gentle  spirit,  which  would  not  have  disturbeil 
their  tenantry,  or  harmed  the  trusting  sparrow. 

We  think  with  tenderness  of  thee,  erring  and  lonely  brother.     For  at  the  last 
day,  when  the  secrets  of  all  arc  unveiled,  it  will  be  found  that  there  are  sadder  mis 
takes  to  deplore  than  thine; — time  wasted  idly,  but  not  innocently — and  talents  per- 
verted without  the  palliation  of  a  virtuous  life,  the  love  of  Nature,  or  the  fear  of  Ciod. 


TIIK    HHMBhKI^, 


::HA5,   JDS.    I.ATDnilE. 


.  !»• 


i!.i 


!.  ^/ 


i 


)ll  MAY  rt'collcct  my  jiivcnik;  weakness,  that 
of  bein^  a  notorious  cascade- 
hunter.  So  you  may  well  ask 
what  impression  was  made  upon 
me  hy  Niajjara.  At  the  com- 
mencement of  the  present  cent- 
ury, Niaj,fara,  difficult  of  access, 
and  rarely  visitt.'d.  was  still  the 
cataract  of  the  wiltlerness.  The 
%•  red  Indian  still  lingered  in  its  vi- 
cinity, adored  the  Great  Spirit 
and  "Master  of  Life"  as  he  list- 
ened to  the  "Thunder  of  the 
waters."  The  human  habitations 
within  sound  of  its  fall  were  rare 
and  far  apart.  Its  few  visitors 
came,  jjazed,  and  departed  in 
silence  and  awe,  having  for  their 
guide  tlu;  child  of  the  forest  or 
the  hardy  backwoodsman.  No 
staring,  painted  hotel  rose  over 
the  woods  and  obtruded  its  pale 
face  over  the  edge  of  the  boiling 
river.  The  journey  to  it  from 
the  east  was  one  of  adventure 
iiiul  peril.  The  scarcely  attainable  shore  of  Goat  Island,  lying  between  the;  two 
gnat  ilivisions  of  the  cataract,  had  only  been  trodden  by  a  few  hardy  adventurers, 
liepending  upon  stout  hearts  and  st(?ady  hands  for  escape  from  the  imminent  perils 
of  till!  ])assagc.  I  low  is  it  now?  The  forest  has  everywhere  yield(!d  to  the  axe, 
llolclswith  their  snug  shrubberies,  out-houses,  gardens,  and  paltry  esUiblishments 
stare  you  in  the  face:  museums,  mills,  staircases,  tolls,  and  grog-shops,  greet  the 
eye  i.ii  the  traveler.  Hridgis  are  thrown  from  island  to  island;  and  Goat  Island  is 
reaelietl  wiiiiout  adventure. 


Hut  do  not  imaj^Miu-  lliat  wr  jjrfw  peevish  at  ilie  si^lii  of  ilie  Mots  upon  ilic 
laiulscapt",  to  which  I  have:  alhicled,  and  tieparted  in  wrath  ami  dis^nist.  We  soon 
found  that  thc-rc  was  that  in  and  about  Niai^Mra  which  was  not  to  In-  niarn-d  \>y  l)usy 
man  and  all  his  pi-tty  schenurs  for  convenience  ami  selfa^'^ijrandisemeMt:  and  1  may 
truly  say,  with  rej,fard  to  both  our  first  and  second  visit,  and  slay  within  its  precincts, 
that  wc  were  under  the  influence  of  its  spell.  While  within  the  sound  of  its  waters, 
I  will  not  say  you  become  part  and  parcel  of  the  cataract,  but  you  luid  it  tlifficult  to 
think,  speak,  or  dream  of  any  thing  else.  Its  vil)rations  pervade,  not  only  the  air 
you  breathe,  the  bank  on  which  you  sit.  the  paper  on  which  )()u  writi-.  l)ut  thrill 
through  your  whole  frame,  and  act  upon  your  nervous  system  in  a  remarkal)le.  and 
it  may  almost  be 
said  an  unpleas- 
ant manner.  You 
may  have  heard 
of  people  coming 
back  from  the 
contemplation  of 
these  Falls,  with 
dissatisfied  feel- 
ings. To  me  this 
is  perfectly  in- 
comprehensible, 
and  I  do  not  know 
whether  to  envy 
the  splendid  fan- 
cies and  expecta- 
tions of  that  class 
of  travellers,  to 
whom  the  sight  of 
Niagara  would 
bring  disappoint- 
ment, or  to  feel 


JMslified  in  doulil- 
ing  whether  they 
have  any  imagin- 
ation or  eye  for 
natural  scenery  at 
all.  I  low  blank 
thi'  worKI  nnist  be 
to  them  of  objects 
of  natural  inter- 
est. What  can 
they  expect  to 
see.''  As  to  ex- 
pectations, ours 
were  excited  and 
warm,  and  1  shall 
never  forget  the 
real  anxiety  with 
which  we  looked 
out,  on  our  ascent 
from  Lewistown, 
for  the  first  ap- 
pearance of  the 

object  of  our  visit.  The  broad,  fathomless  blue  river,  streaked  with  foam,  which, 
deeply  sunk  in  a  colossal  channel,  hurried  to  our  rencontre,  and  appeared  at  every 
fresh  glimpse  as  we  advanced,  swifter  and  in  greater  commotion,  was  to  us  a  guar- 
antee that  the  scene  of  its  descent  from  the  upper  country  could  be  no  common 
one.  When  about  three  miles  from  the  village  on  the  American  side,  )()u  gain 
your  first  view  of  the  Falls,  together  with  the  river,  both  above  and  below, — the 
island,  which  divides  them, —  and  greater  part  of  the  basin  at  their  feet.  I  will 
not  say  but  that  the  impression   of  that   first   glance  was    heightened  afterward 

01 


STEPS   TO    RAriDiJ   OM   OUTER    SISTER   ISLAND 


>>^%?%^ 


I 


r^l^^ 


\' »' 


\ 


'I    li\  niir  in  .111  r  ,111(1  11  ilciMliil  siii\(\y'^  JL 

(if  (Ncr)   |)(prti(Pii  (it   the  (.itar.iil  in  ] 

y     '       (l(l,iil;    y  I  uc  all  iiu;n  111   llial  we  could  t'Vfii    ^ 
llicii  .i^ras]'  ill''   i<lca  dI'  its  inaL,niiUnlc,  ami  that  all 
\\^•  had  seen  I'lscwlurc  and  all  wf  liad  fxpcclcd,  was 
"ip  "^Vli,""'"   '■""  ^'i''!'-'^^'''  '■>■  ^^''''l  ^^'•''^  *'"'"  ^li"\\"  I'*  'i^-    ^^'"'  when, 
B/  ''"'  l^""*>\\'''l^'  y<;ir,  two  of  us  turned  aside  li)-  coininon 

((inseiit  to  pay  a  second  visit  to  Nia.i,Mra,  IiaviiijLj  in 
the  interval.  visite<l  man)-  of  the  i^reat  falls  of  Lower  Canaila, — 
catai.K  ts  in  t()m|iarison  to  \vhi(  h  all  luiropean  I'alls  are  puerile; 
and  we  f(  It  our  curiosity  <\ciled  to  divine  what  impression  a 
sec(jnil  visit  would  make — far  from  Iieini,'  disappointed,  we  felt  that 
l)(  fore  Niaj^'.ira,  in  spite  of  its  compar.itive  inferiority  of  (levatioii,  all 
shrunk  to  playthinj^s.  It  is  not  tlu;  mere  weiL,du  and  volume  of  water 
th,il  should  ,L;ive  this  far-famed  cataract  the  first  rank.  Mvery  sur- 
roiindim^f  ohjei  t  seems  to  he  on  a  correspomlini^f  scale  of  matjiiilicencc. 
(^\  /-I  'I  he  wide  li(iuid  surface  of  the  river  .ihove,  with  its  luxuriantly  verdure  clad 
.•y  swelling;  hiinks,  contrasted  hy  the  deep  blue  floods  helow,  as,  hoilintj  up  from 
their  plunge,  into  the  unfalhomeil  basin  they  shock  a.L,fainst  one  another, 
and  r.Kc  down  toward  the  distant  laki';  the  extreme;  beauty  of  the  fori-sted  d'  O' 
will)  its  pre(ipi(«s  and  slopes;  the  colorinjjjs  of  the  water,  which  'i  t'  upp(  i 
pari  of  its  d(  scent,  is  that  of  the  enuTald;  the  mystery  and  thick      '  null  hide 

the   fool   of  the   falls,  and   add  to  their  apiiiirent  hei},dit,  and  tlu;  i:^   clouds  of 

\.ipor,  now  hurried  oscr  the  face  of  tin;  Luidscapi-,  as  thout^h  uri^<  l\  th<  wreath 
of  .1  hurriiaiie,    and  then  slowly  ascendinj^r  and  hoverinj,'  like  a  cloud   in  blue 

sky,  all  combine  to  form  a  scene  in  which  sublimity  and  pictures(iuc  beauty  an* 
eiK  hantiiiL;l\  blended.  There  is  here  none  of  that  stiffness  eith(;r  in  the  scenery,  or 
the  form  and  appearaiKc  of  the  particular  object  of  interest,  which  engravings  too 
h((|uentl\'  give  you  the  iiha  of. 

.Among  the  innumerable  points  of  view,  that  from  the  precipitous  shore  of  the 
ri\i  r,  .ibout  the  distance  i  have  alluded  to,  is  tlu;  most  satisfactory,  if  not  the  most 
striking.  In  tiie  imineiliate  vicinity  of  thi;  l'"alls,  the  points  of  interest  are  so  various, 
tiiat  if  you  would  re(iuire  a  sketch,  I  should  not  know  which  to  select.  The  grandest, 
iloubtless,  is  from  tlu-  Canadian  shore,  near  the;  Horse-Shoe  Fall;  but  you  pass  from 
one  to  the  other,  and  e\er)\vhere  the  picture   presented  has  no  compeer  or  rival  in 


<•'! 


natiiri'.  Wli.it  ,i  ijoiious  s(<i\<'  In  sit  upon  the  simiinit  of  tlic  iinpcndinj,' precipice 
of  (loal  Isl.iiul,  ami  str,  as  we  ilid  the  irornini,^  after  our  first  arrival,  tlie  summer  mist 
hci^'in  to  rise  and  disenj,'aL,fe  itself  from  the  luavy  white  cloud  of  spray  which  rose 
from  th.  d.  pth  of  the  hoilini,'  hasin  of  the  (ireat  Fall  beneath  us.  By  degrees,  the 
(iirl.iiii  was  partiall)  reinoviil,  revealin-,'  the  wall  of  slowly-descending  water  behind, 
now  dim!)  d.sc  ricd,— as,  confountied  with  the  tloaling  sheets  of  foam  and  spray, 
\\iii(h  tin-   wind  of  tlu'  mighty  ratara(  t  drove  backward  and  forward  over  it  like 

'  srend  i  ng  col- 
umns. The  scene 
at  sun-set,  day 
after  da\',  was  no 
way  less  majes- 
tic, when  the  sim, 
glancing  from 
tli«;  Canaiiian 
side  of  th('  river, 
lit  up  the  preci- 
pices and  wooils 
of  Goat  Island, 
and  the  broad 
surface  of  the 
American  I'all, 
which  th(;n  glow- 
jif;;.;^'^;  ed  like  a  wall  of 
gold;  while  h.ilf 
the  I'all  of  the 
horse-shoe,  and 
the  deep  recess 
of  the  curve  were 
wrapped  in  deep 
shade.  Morn- 
ing, noon,  and 
night,  found  us 


i  n  n  II  in  c  i  .<  hi  i' 
clouds  of  tiiiii 
floating  g.iii/f 
it  mocked  us  with 
its  ( (insl.intly  v.i 
r_s  iiig  sh.qie  am 
posi  I  inn  :  and 
tile  n  a|>|i(aring 
un\(  ilcii  with  its 
sea  ujrcrn  tints, 
brilliantly  illum- 
in.itrd  l)y  the 
p  .1  s  s  i  n  g  s  II  n  - 
beam.  An  Ii.air 
afleraiui  tl'.f  mist 
haildisapi)eared; 
the  balls  were 
sparkling  in  the 
bright  sunshine; 
and  a  brilliant 
iris  was  ri'sting 
on  the  bod)  ol 
vapor  which  the 
w  i  nd  ca  r r  i  ed 
away  from  the 
face  of  the  de- 
strolling  about  the  shore  and  on  the  beautiful  Island,  which  is  an  earthly  paradise, 
I  remember  the  c|uiet  hours  spent  there,  when  fatigued  with  the  glare  of  the  hot 
!i  i'dit  sun,  and  the  din  of  the  b'alls,  with  peculiar  delight.  We  loved,  too,  to  escape 
from  all  thost-  signs  of  man's  presence,  and  busy-bodying  to  which  I  have  alluded, 
anil,  burj ing  ourselvis  in  the  fresh,  dark,  scarce-trodden  forest  still  covering  a  great 
part  of  its  area,  to  listen  to  the  deadened  roar  of  the  vast  cataracts  on  either  hand, 
swelling  on  the  air  distinct  from  (rvery  other  sound. 


tALLi    IHOM    T)ll.    KlVi,Jv 


There,  scattd  in  comparativt-  solitucU-,  you  catch  a  peep,  across  a  long  irregular 
vista  of  stems,  of  the  white  vapor  ami  foam.  Wni  listen  to  tiie  sharp  cry  of  the 
blue  jay,  the  tap  of  the  red-headed  woodpecker,  and  the  playful  bark  of  tin;  scjuirrel; 
you  scan  the  smooth  white  boles  of  the  beech  or  birch,  chec(|uercd  with  i)road 
patches  of  dark-green  moss,  the  stately  elm  and  oak.  the  broad-leaved  maple,  the 
silvery  white  and  exquisitely  chiselled  trunk  of  the  cedar,  or  the  decaying  trunk  of 
the  huge  chestnut,  garlanded  with  creepers ;  but  you  will  hardly  ever  lost-  the  con- 
sciousness of  the  locality.  The;  spell  of  Niagara  is  still  upon  and  around  you.  You 
glance  again  and  again  at  the  white  veil  which  thickens  or  grows  dim  beyond  the 
leafy  forest: — the  rush  of  the  nearer  rapids,  the  din  of  falling  waters,  the  murmur  of 
the  echoes  answering  the  pulsations  of  th(!  descending  mass,  fill  your  ears,  and 
pervade  all  nature. 

Every  thing  around  and  about  you  appears  to  reply  to  th  Cataract,  and  to  par- 
take of  it,  none  more  so  than  the  evergreen  forest  which  is  bathed  from  ) car  to  year 
in  the  dew  of  the  river.  These  noble  trees,  as  they  tow(;r  aloft  on  tlu-  soil,  are  sus- 
tained from  youth  to  age  by  the  invigorating  spray  of  th<!  mighty  balls.  Their 
leaves  arc  steeped,  summer  after  summer,  in  the  heavy  dew,  their  trunks  t-cho  the. 
falling  waters,  from  the  day  they  rise  from  the  sod,  to  that  in  which  they  art;  shaken 
to  the  ground;  and  the  fibres  of  the  huge  moss-grown  trunk,  on  which  you  sit,  pros- 
trate and  mouldering  on  the  rich  mould  beneath,  bedded  in  the  fresh  grass  and 
leaves,  still  vibrate  to  the  sound  of  its  thunders,  and  crumble  gradually  to  dust.  Hut 
all  thi'-  proves  nothing  —  as  a  matter-of-fact  man  might  say  —  but  that  I  am  Niagara 
mad.  Impelled  by  a  passion  for  this  variety  of  natural  scenery,  as  a  boy,  there  is 
something  in  the  motion  of  a  waterfall  which  always  makes  my  brain  s])in  with 
pleasure.  We  have  much  before  us  and  many  sublime  scenes,  though  none  may  vie 
with  that,  before  which  we  have  been  lingering: — allons  ! 


Ii- 


n    »VNC<)PK   OF    THK    WJITEI^S, 


'AD.. 


DEDRnE    W.    Hni.I.EY. 


I 


'1' 


!■■ 


'«\^^^  \  '1"HI-;  jijili  (.r  Mardi.  iS4,S,  ilic  river  prcscnltil  a  remarkable  pheiiomL-non. 

■i[\^M'    There  is  no  rei  ord  of  a  similar  one.  nor  lias  it  lieen  observed  since.     Tli<; 

\.^a^^^  winter  bad  been  intensely  loid,  and  the  ice  formed  on  Lake  I'.rie  was  very 
TH^'^"^  thick.  This  was  loosened  aroinul  the  shores  by  the  warm  days  of  the 
,A"''S~  early  surins'.  Diirins/  the  day,  a  stiff  easterl\-  winil  moved  th('  whole  field 
r;  jrf"  "!'  ^''''  ''''^''-  About  sundown,  ihe  wind  chopped  suddenly  round  and  blew 
,/'•  a  j;ali;  from  the  west.  This  brou.i,dit  the  vast  tract  of  ice  down  a_ijain  with 
-.  such  tremendous  force  that  it  fdled  in  the  neck  of  the  lake  and  the  outlet, 
so  that  the  outflow  of  tiie  water  was  very  i^reatly  imjieded.  Of  course,  it  only 
needed  a  short  space  of  time  for  the  j-.iils  to  drain  off  the  water  below  Black  Kock. 
The  consecpience  was  tiiat,  win  n  \\v  arose  in  the  tpornini,"-  at  Niajjfara,  we  found  our 
river  was  nearly  half  ^-one.  Ihe  .American  channel  had  dwindled  to  a  respectable 
creek.  The  Hritish  channel  looked  as  thou.t,di  it  had  been  smitten  with  a  ([uick 
consumption,  and  was  fast  passini,^  away.  I-ar  up  from  the  head  of  tioat  Island 
and  out  into  tlu;  Canatlian  rapids  the  water  was  gone,  as  it  was  also  from  the  lower 
end  of  Goat  Islantl,  out  beyond  the  tower.  The  rocks  were  bare,  black,  and  forbid- 
i\\wg.  The  roar  of  .Niagara  had  subsided  almost  to  a  moan.  Thi;  scene  was 
desolate,  and  but  for  its  no\(Ity  and  the  certainty  that  it  would  change  before 
many  hours,  would  have  been  gloomy  and  saddening.  livery  person  who  has 
visited  Niagara  will  remember  a  beautiful  jet  of  water  which  shoots  up  into  the  air 
about  forty  rods  south  of  the  outer  .Sister  in  the  great  rapids,  called,  with  a  singular 
contradiction  of  terms,  the  "  Lea|)ing  Roik,"  Ihe  writer  drove  a  horse  and  buggy 
from  near  the  head  of  C/oat  Island  out  to  a  point  above  and  near  to  that  jet.  With 
a  log-cart  and  four  horses,  he  drew  from  the  outside-  of  the  outer  island  a  stick  of 
|)ine  timber  hewed  twelve  inches  sciuare  and  forty  feet  long.  l-"rom  the  top  of  the 
middle  island  was  drawn  a  still  larger  slick,  heweil  on  one  side  anil  sixty  feet  long. 
I'here  are  ^^w  places  on  the  gK)l)(;  where  a  person  would  be  less  likely  to  go 
lumbering  than  in  the  rapids  of  Niagara,  just  ai)ove  the  brink  of  the  ilorse-Shoe 
l-"all.  .All  the  people  of  the  neighljorhood  wen;  abroad,  ex|)loring  recesses  and 
cavities  that  had  never  before  been  exposed  to  morl.il  eyes.  Tiie  writer  went  some 
distance  up  the  shore  of  the  river,  l-.irge  fields  of  the  mudd\-  bottou)  were  laid 
l)are.  The  shell  fish,  the  uni- valves,  and  the  bi- valves  were  in  despair.  The  clams, 
with  their  backs  up  and  their  op<:n  mouths  down  in  the  nuul,  were  making  their 
sinuou>  courses  toward  the  shrunken  stream.  This  singular  syncope  of  tlu;  waters 
lasted  all  the  tlay,  ami  night  closed  over  the  strange  scene.  Hut  in  the  morning  our 
river  was  restoreil  in  all  its  strength  aiul  biauty  and  majesty. — Falls  of  Xiagara. 


■  f 


\ 


^:X'?'  lACAkA    kl\  1:R,  wlii.h    tak. 


•  *l. 


1. 


it-,    name    from    tlic    I-'alls,   is  thirty-six 
niilf,  in  l.^n-tli,  rcacliiiii,^  \u<\n   l.akr    l.ric  to  Lake  (  )iitai-i().      It  rcci-ivrs  the 
walrrs    ol"   all    tlic    ii|'i'«r    Likes,    u/..    V.nr.    St.   Clair,    Huron,    Michigan, 
Siipcrior.  ami  others  smaller  than  these.     St.  Louis  River,  rising  1250  miles 
north\V(st  of  the  lalls.  and   1  ^o  miles  west  of  Lake  Superior,  is  the  most  remote 


source  of  this  stream. 
Its  position  above  the 
level  of  the  sea  is  said 
to  he  I  2(x>  feet,  and 
in  its  (i)urse  towards 
Lake  ( )ntar io,  it 
makes  a  desct'nt  of 
551  feet.  The  lakes 
and  streams  for  which 
it  is  an  outlet,  cover 
an  area  of  1  50,000 
s(piart;  miles.  The 
length  of  Lake  Supe- 
rior is  450  miles,  its 
width  100  miles,  and 
its  tiepth  goo  feet. 
Tlu;  Straits  of  Saint 
.Mar).  Oo  miles  long, 
and  45  feet  in  its  de- 
scent, conveNs  the 
waters  of  Laki-  Supe 
rior  and  Lake  I  luron, 
which  receives  also 
the  waters  of  nearly 
forty  rivers.  Lake 
Michigan  is  ;,(k)  mil«;s 


]  long,   50  miles  wide, 

]  and  oo<3  feet  deep.  Its 
outlet  is  the  Straits  of 
Mackinai,  conveying 
its  waters  into  Lake 
Huron,  a  distance  of 
40  miles.  Cireen  Hay, 
formerly  called  the 
Bay  of  I'uans,  is  on 
the  northwest  side  of 

I  Lake   Michigan,    100 

miles   long  and   20 

^  miles   wide.      Lakt; 

,^  .:.",' Huron    is   218   miles 

i":i'i    length,  and    180 

^  miles  in  width,  and 

'about  90:)  fe(!t  deep. 
Its  waters  How  into 
Lake  Lrie,  through 
liie  Lake  and  River 
St.  Clair,  and  the  De- 
troit River,  a  distance 
of  ninety  miles,  with 
a  descent  of  31  feet. 
^%^  Lak(^  Lrie  is  290  miles 


A  r  ri  p  1   I. ;  ;  t 


long,   6;,  miles  wide, 

and  120  feet  deep.  Its  level  above  the  sea  is  564  feet,  and  above  Lake  Ontario  334 
feet,  which,  of  course,  is  the  descent  it  makes  to  tht;  latter.  The  descent  from  Lake 
Lrie,  wlu-re  the  Niag.ua  River  commences,  to  Schlosser,  is  12  feet;  at  the  rapids  it 
is  52  feet:  at  the  Cataract  164  feel;  from  this  point  to  Lewiston.  104  feet;  thence  to 
Lake  Ontario,  2  feet.  .At  Lake  Lrie,  wlure  the  Niagara  River  commences,  its  width 
is  about  two  miles;  and  its  depth  from  20  to  40  feet.     -At  Black  Rock  it  is  narrowed 


! 


! 


i*«' 


I  I.  ij 


to  a  mile.  .111(1  is.  at  that  |)<)iiit,  (Ircj)  and  rapiii,  inovinij  at  the  ratt;  of  six  or  (;i^'ht 
miles  an  hour.  I'or  three  miles  its  <  urrcnt  (.-ontinues  swift,  and  thciKu;  its  course  is 
sh)w,  and  its  surface  plai  id,  until  within  one  mile  from  the  I'alls.  At  the  head  of 
C.rand  Isl.md,  live  miles  from  Lake  l>ie.  it  expands,  and  branches  out  into  two 
sire.ims,  rmmiuL^  on  eitli(  r  sid.'  of  this  island,  the  i^reatest  (juantitj-  of  water  llowinj^ 
oM  the  west  side  of  the  island,  until  it  measures  ei.i^hl  miles  across,  lielow  this, 
opposite  Sdilosser,  it  is  ne.irly  three  miles  in  width,  and  appears  smooth  like  the 
surfad-  of  a  (|uiet  lake,  its  descent  from  tliis  point  to  the  I'alls  is  go  feet.  At  the 
lalls  its  width  is  three  (piarters  of  a  mile:  at  the  I''erry  it  is  56  rods  wide;  at  the 
Whirlpool  150  jards  wide.  Its  depth  varies,  in  different  places,  from  20  to  300  feet; 
and  just  l.elow  tin-  Catanict  it  has  never  been  fathomed.  Niat^ara  River  embraces, 
in  its  (ourse,  many  beautiful  islands,  the  lesser  ones  of  which  an;  Bird  Island, 
sitiuUi  (1  between   i?uffalo  and   Lake  Hrie;  Sejuare   Island,  opposite  IMack   Rock,  of 


f'/ytfn,  iltf  (trftfitttjf  Maps 


ROl/iVDARy  COMMlissrONERS. 


MUTM-SJi) 


i.;i  .icres;  Strawlx'rry  Ishunl.  of  kxd  acres;  Heaver  Island,  of  30  acres;  Rattlesnake 
Island,  of  .pS  acres;  Tonawanda  Island,  of  6g  acres;  Cayiij^a  Island,  of  xoo  acres, 
iie.u-est  to  the  American  shon,  foiu'  miles  above  the  Falls;  and  Huck-horn  Island, 
whi(h  is  low  and  marshy,  i ontainini,^  146  acres.  The  two  islands  of  principal  note 
in  this  river,  are  (irand  Isl.uid,  of  i7,.iS4  acres,  and  Navy  Island,  of  304  acres. 

rile  b.uiks  of  Niai,Mra  Kiver,  from  I""ort  Mrie  to  the  Canadian  shore,  at  the 
outlet  of  Laki'  I'.rie,  to  Chippewa,  a  distance  of  (lij^jhteen  miles,  are  from  four  to  ten 
feel  hii,di.  I'rom  Chippewa  to  the  i'.dls  themselves,  a  distance  of  two  and  a  half 
miles,  the  bank  is  from  ten  to  one  hundred  feet  hij^h,  the  descent  of  the  river  bein^ 
ninety  two  feet.  I'rom  the  lalls  to  I.ewiston,  a  distance  of  seven  miles,  the  bank 
varies  from  one  hundred  and  fifty  to  three  hundred  feet.  IVom  Lewiston  to  Lake 
Ontario  is  seven  miles,  ,uid  in  this  distance  the  Northern  Terrace;,  or  Mountain 
Ritl^^e,  crosses  the  course  of  the  river,  when  the  banks  diminish  to  twenty-five  or 
thirty  feet.      Tlit    L^orL^e  tliri)uj,di  which  the   Niai,Mr;i   River  llows.  after  Icavinj^  the 


precipice  that  forms  the  Cataract,  "prcsints  almost  perpendicular  walls,  with  a  talus 
at  the  bottom,  fornuil  by  Uu;  rallinj,^  of  some  of  the  hi},'her  strata,"  says  Hall,  in  the 
(ieotjraphical  Survey  of  the  State  of  New  ^'ork.  "The  outlet  of  the  chasm  is 
scarcely  wiiler  tlian  elsewhere  alont,^  its  course.  In  some  places  the  channel  is  less 
than  two  hundred  yards  across,  and  attain  is  extended  to  twice  that  width.  Thr 
br«'adth  of  tlu;  chasm  at  the  top  is  nearly  twice  as  threat  as  tiiat  of  the  stream  below. 
The  declivity  of  the  bed  of  tht;  river,  from  the  Falls  to  Lewiston,  is  one  hundred 
and  four  feet,  or  nearly  fifteen  feet  in  the  mile. 

"  At  one  place,  about  a  mih;  below  the   I'alls,  where  the  channc^l  is  narrowest, 
the  stream  glides  with  comparative  stillness,  while  below  this,  where  the  channel  is 


^S'-iUZTr'-': 


uv:nil!A  i'=!,ANP    Fuor!   niV-  uooi  vr  Tm;  d'JVMino  ;jf'Ri:.'g  colTAOt 

broader,  it  is  driven  aloniLj  with  j^^reat  velocity.  Ajjain,  below  the  whirlpool,  the 
surface  of  the  river  is  more  smooth,  and  the  current  more  j,'(mtle,  thoujfh  the  channel 
is  narrower  than  above.  In  the  course  of  this  J^'orj^e,  is  a  sinj^le  exc«'ption  to  the 
parallel  sides  and  nearly  vertical  cliffs;  this  is  upon  the  west  bank  of  the  river  at  the 
whirlpool.  The  witlth  of  the  },r()rjLje  at  Lewiston  is  I5tx)f)r  perhaps  2cxx>  feet.  In 
tin;  NiaLjara  chasm  there  are  no  boulders,  pebbles  or  gravel.  TIk;  river  occupies 
the  wh(jle  wiilth,  at  the  bottom,  «?.\cept  a  talus  on  either  side,  formed  by  angular 
fragments  fallen  from  above. 

"  I'Vom  all  that  appears  along  the;  present  river  course,  there  was  probably  an 
ancient  shallow  valley  extending  in  the  direction  of  the  present  Niagara  River 
which  <Mve  the  first  ilireclion  to  tin;  waters." 


1 1' 


DICKKNS'   NOTES. 


I  "* 


ih.Mi 


v.: 
\ 

i  ■ 

if 


\  '11 1 1",  moriiini,'  \v<-  arrived  al  Miiffalo,  and,  luinj,'  loo  near 
the  (Ircat  I'alls  to  wail  iialiciuly  aiiywhcrt:  else,  wc 
set  otT  \>\  the  train  at  nine  o'clock  to  N'iaj,'ara.  It  was 
a  miserable  day;  diilly  and  raw;  a  dain|j  mist  fallinj,'; 
ami  the  trees  in  that  northern  n'),non  quiti;  i)are  and 
wintry.  Whenever  th<'  tniin  halted,  1  listened  for  the 
roar;  ami  w;is  constantly  strainin.i,f  my  eyes  in  the 
iliredion  wh<re  1  knew  the  I'alls  must  be,  from  seeinjf 
the  river  rollin},^  on  towards  them;  every  moment  ex- 
J  -<.  pectinsjr  to  behold  the  si)ray.  Within  a  few  minutes  of 
>V"oiir  sl()|)l)iIlt,^  not  befor<',  I  saw  two  ijreat  white  clouds 
■J  risini,-^  up  slowly  ami  majestically  from  the  dejnhs  of 
the  earth.  ihat  was  all.  At  lent^th  we  ;dij,dited;  and 
^l"^ '  then,  for  the  first  time,  I  lu-ard  the  mi,<,duy  rush  of 
water,  ami  felt  the  ,!.,fround  tremble  underneath  my 
fell.  The  b;mk  is  very  steep,  and  was  slippery  with 
rain  and  half  melted  ice.  1  harilly  know  how  1  i,H)t 
down,  but  I  was  soon  at  the  bottom,  and  climbing,', 
with  two  i'.ni^dish  officers  who  were  crossinij  and  hail 
joimil  me,  o\tr  some  broken  rocks,  ileafeneil  by  tlur 
noise,  half  blinded  by  the  spray,  and  wet  to  the  skin. 
We  were  at  the  foot  of  the  American  I-'all.  I  could 
see  an  immense;  torrent  of  water  tearini,'  headlong 
down  from  some  ,<,aeat  heiijht,  but  had  no  idea  of 
shape,  or  situation,  or  anythini^  but  vat^nie  immensity.  When  we  were  seated  in 
the  littli'  ferry-bo;U,  ami  were  i  rossintj  the  swollen  river,  immediately  before  both 
cataracts,  1  bej^an  in  feel  what  it  was;  but  1  was  in  a  manner  stunned,  and  unable  to 
comprehend  thi'  vastmss  of  the  scene.  It  was  not  until  I  came  on  Table  Rock,  and 
looked— Clreal  Heaven,  on  what  a  fall  of  bri<,du  i^reen  water! — that  it  came  upon 
me  in  its  full  niiL,dn  and  majest) . 

Then,  when  I  felt  how  near  to  my  Creator  I  was  standinj,',  the  first  effect,  and 
the  emlurinj^r  one — instant  and  laslin<,f — of  the  tremendous  spectacle,  was  Peace. 
Peace  of  Mind,  trancpiility,  calm  recollections  of  the  Dead,  j^reat  thouj^hts  of  litiTnal 
Rest  and  Happiness:  nothinv;  of  i,doom  or  terror.  Niaj,'ara  was  at  once  stamped 
upon  m\  heart,  an  ImaLje  i)f  Hi:auty;  to  remain  there,  changeless  and  indelible,  until 
its  pulses  ciase  in  beat,   for  e\er. 

n 


.-15^J.1 


Oh.  liow  the  strift!  and  tnniblc  of  daily  lifr  rccfdcil  from  my  view,  and  Icsscni-d 
in  the  distance,  liurin^r  the  ten  nieniurahlc  days  \\c  |)assed  on  tliat  Mnclianted 
(Iround!  What  voices  s|)(jke  from  out  tlie  tiiunderini,'  water;  what  faces,  faded 
from  the  earth,  h)oked  out  upon  me  from  its  t,deamini,f  depths;  what  Heavenly 
promise  j,distened  in  those  anitjel's  tears,  the  drops  of  m.in\  hues,  liiat  showered 
around,  and  twined  themselves  about  the  L^rorucoiis  .u-ches  whiih  the  chanj^nnir 
rainbows  made! 

I  never  stirred  in  all  that  time  from  the  Canadian  side,  whither  I  had  j^'one  at 
first.  I  never  crossed  the  river  aj^Min;  for  I  knew  there  were  ptople  on  the  other 
shore,  and  in  such  a  place  it  is  natural  to  shun  stianj^fe  company.  To  wamler  to 
ant!  fro  all  day,  and  see  the  cataracts  from  all  points  of  view;  to  stand  upon  the 
edj^e  t)f  the  (ireat  Horst;-Sh(H'  i*"all,  markin^f  the  hurried  w.iter  t^atherini,^  strenj^lh 
as  it  approached  the  verjre,  )et  seeminj,',  t(Jo,  to  pause  bef(jre  it  shot  into  the  i,nilf 
below;  to  ^iv/.r  from  the  river's  level  up  ;it  the  torrent  as  it  came  stnMmini;  ilt)wn; 
to  climb  the  nei<,dil)orinjr  heij,dus  and  watch  it  throuL,di  the  trees,  and  see  the 
wreathiniLj  water  in  the  rapids  hurryini,^  on  to  take  its  fearful  pluni,'e;  to  linifer  in 
the  shadow  of  the  solemn  rocks  three  miles  below;  walchini,^  the  river  ;is,  stirred  by 
no  visible  cause,  it  heaved  and  edtlied  and  awoke  the  echoes,  beinj,'  troubled  yet, 
far  down  beneath  the  surface,  by  its  t^iant  leap;  to  have  Niai,Mra  before  me  liifhti'd 
by  the  sun  and  by  tin;  moon,  red  in  the  day's  decline,  and  '^uy  as  eveninj^  slowly 
fell  upon  it;  to  look  upon  it  every  day.  and  wake  up  in  the  nij,'ht  and  hear  its  cease- 
less voice:  this  was  enouiifh. 

I  think  in  every  c|uiet  season  now.  still  do  those  waters  roll  and  leap,  and  roar 
and  tumble,  all  day  loni;;  still  are  the  rainbows  spanniiii,'  them,  a  hundred  feet 
below.  Still,  when  the  sun  is  on  them,  do  they  shine  and  ijlow  like  molten  (.jold. 
Still,  when  the  day  is  jjloomy,  do  they  fall  like  snow,  or  seem  to  crumble  away  like 
the  front  of  a  great  chalk  cliff,  or  roll  down  the  rock  like  dense  white;  smoke. 
Hut    always   does    the    mighty    stream    appear    to    die    as    it    comes    down,    ami 

-    ^     - always    from    its    unfathomable    grave  arises    that 

tremenilous  ghost  of  s[)ray  and 
mist,  which  is  never  laid:  which 
has  haunted  this  place  with  the 
same  dread  solemnity  since 
Darkness  brooiled  on  the  deep, 
and  that  first  flood  before  tin: 
Deluge  —  I'ight  —  came  rushing 
on  Creation  at  the 
v*'  '  word  of  (iod. 


HKTHOftPKCT. 


'!.'»i' 


i!.i 


!( 


I 


m 


It'  I 


75 


,    1 

\     f 

li  li 


l-||i' 


IIH 


i' ., 


M 


Iiiuiw.li.it.  I\  nil  n. I.  hill-  th.lii.t.l  I  m..iint..l  L-  ili.'  l.ilvidtTc,  from  which  a 
full  vi.w  <>\  I...1I1  l.ill-  ..m  I..'  S..1),  ill.'  .111.-  iHl.i'i-in.i;  t..  lli.'  I'liit..!  Slates  and  thi; 
Dtli.rl.i  (.111. 1.1. 1.  III.'  .Ami.  li.. Ill  l.ill  !■.  ilii-- <  luimln  .1  .iiid  tw.iUy  yards  wide  in  a 
ri-lit  liii.'.  uhil.'  ill.  I  .in.i.li.in  t.ill  is  six  luimlr.  .1  \.inls  uidc  Iml  curved  and 
s(....|,i.|  ..III  lik'  .1  ll.irs.-  shoe,  iluoil-ll  tll.se  tu.i  iliumilse  open  ^.ips  in  the 
r.Hk\  |..  i|..  iKJK  iil.ir  u.ill.  pr.  I  i|>it.it.s  its.lT  the  \\li..l.'  111. is-,  .. I'  w.it.  r  Inuii  Lake  l.rie 
,1  III. IS-,  iii.iiliiiiiatii,ill>  .stiiiiat.  .1  at  iiiii.'t>  inilli.)iis  nf  iiiliie  v.irds  per  hour,  or, 
il  \..ii  pr.  Ill-,  tw.  lit)  tw..  iiiilli.iiis  of  .|ii.uts  ill  .1  s.i.iiid.  I  li.'  word  Ni.i.i^ara  is  a 
,  ..I'liipti.iii    ..I    .111     ln..|ii..is    i.rm     (  )^ii,ik.irr.i     si^nilyiii;;    ////nii/<  )/)/<;    u'jA;-.       It 

Wnlilil    II.     dlllli  nil    I.I   llinl   ,1    III. Ill'   .A. II  I   ilelllliti.ill 

III.  tir-,1  iiiipn  ssi..n  Iniin  sii.  Ii  .1  sp.dael.-  is  stupor,  and.  uiiahle  to  analyze  liis 
feeliiij^s.  nil.'  11.  ..Is  .1  Intl.  tun.  to  es.iiiiiii.'  tlu'  .l.t.iils  of  this  \,ist  whole.  When' 
is  ill.-   p. lint.  I',  ill.-  writ.  r.  ili.'  iiiiisi.  i.ui.  wlm  i.m 


Id   r.iid.r  th.'  ovirulnlmiii''  etlects.'' 


itAIl-'VAr  iruPK.'inlcr.  r.i.iu«i. 

I'll.'  ii!.u\.ls  (if  ii.itiir.'  aw.ikcii  in  us  a  <  r.nvd  of  sinuiltaneoiis  and  complex  scnsa- 
li.tiis,  I'll.'  pell  iDiild  li.udiv  not.',  one  alter  the  other,  lach  of  these  impressions, 
.ill  .il  uhil  h  initial.'  an.l  h,iriiioni/e  and  exalt  our  admiration.  In  front  of  the 
speii.uor  risi's  ,1  m.iss  of  reddish  rock,  the  color  of  wlii.  h  hrins^s  out  the  hrilliant 
tints  of  the  lii|ui.l  m.iss.  'I'liis  mass.  Hni'iiisli  at  th.'  top.  is  Niineil  a  litth'  lower 
down  with  li.iiids  of  sil\ir.  whi.h  l.ise  tli.iiiseKcs  in  the  al)\ss  in  avalanches  of 
SHOW)  f.i.im.  ( lo.il  Isl.ind  lies  rii,dit  li.tw.'.n  the  two  fills,  wliich  seem  every  instant 
re.uK  t.)  I  .irr\   it  aw.iy  in  tli.ir  impetuous  torrents. 

.Xlthouj^di.  t!;  Miks  to  its  solid  f.iiindation,  il  resists  their  force,  yet  every  now 
ami  then  j^reat  houlders  are  ilela.  lied  and  roll  into  the  hottomless  deeps  of  the  river 
lielow.  The  island  is  crowned  with  trees  wliii  h  overtop  the  thick  clomls,  which  rist? 
trom  th.-  Ii.isdin  .it  the  ahyss  adorned  with  the  hrilliant  colors  of  the  r.iinbow. 
whil.'  from  th.-  iioUom  nl   lli.'  lioilim;  L^ulf  iiiuunts  in  thunder  lt)nes  th*'  soicc  of  the 


7  i;il.ir.l(  t   rrlrlir.ltilli,'    tllr    !^l'irii'S  nf 

'  il>  ii«  1)  I  n  .iliiiii.      |5i  liiu   ilic  r.ill. 

I 

I  ihi'   il.irk,  (In  |i   ii\rr   rnlU   iilmij^ 

'  Ixtwrcn  twii  lu^h  riK  k\  w.ills,  I'roin 

till'  inicrstii  IS  of  wliiili  s|iriiij,'s  a 

liiMiii.inl  vi'u;it;iliim.    Hut  tln'  ri\rr 

has  ollii  r  siirjirisrs  in  nsirxi'  Inr 

^m!  IIS.      Ilial  hroail.  lil.u  k  liiir,   rim 


niiiL,''  aiTiiss  hctwcrn  yon  and  tlw  lilur  sky.  is  the 
siis|i(n(li(|  hriilH^c  uliicli  joins  ilir  two  hanks  of  tin- 
.\iaL;ara  KisciMlir  j^ii^anlic  nsnll  of  .Xrni'rican  j^rniiis, 
rivallini^f  tlif  L;raiulrnrs  ot"  Naluri'  in  ilii'  l.u  r  of  oni' 
'  of  its  most  su;|irn(loiis  m.mifcstations.  I  liis  Krid^i- 
is  lomposrd  of  two  iikiilniMis,  twriit)  lonr  flit  apart; 
(•  louir  oni'  for  i.irri.iL^i's  .md  foot  iMssmj^irs,  and  llir 
oiir  fur  till'  r.iilu'.iy  trains,  srvcral  lims  of  road  con 
o,  and  (  rossiiii^r  at  this  |>oint  of  the  rixir.  In  crossinj^ 
this  ai'ri.d  \v.i\',  which  s\viniL;s  aliovc  the  roarinj,'  floods  of  N'ia^'ar.i. 
at  a  hriL^ht  j^rcatcr  than  that  to  which  tin-  cross  on  the  I'-mthion 
rises  aliovc  the  strnts  which  snrroimd  it,  I  siTinrd  to  he  lloatins^'  in  s|).ic(', 
and  this  di//y  sensation  must  lie  n^rcatly  increased  when  a  tr.iin  of  r.iil  c.ir- 
riajres  passes  over  the  u|)|)er  pl.itform  .it  full  speed.  I  confess  tliat  after  reachin^f  the 
middle  of  the  l)rid,i,fe,  which  is  one  hundred  and  twcnt)'  fisc  yards  from  eith«T  hank, 
I  hastened  to  retrace  my  steps,  and  planteil  my  feet  with  pleasure  upon  the  top  of 
the  rocks  horderini,^  the  river. 

The  next  day — for  it  reijuires  more  than  oni'  day  to  tliorouj^hl)'  stuily  the  falls 
— a  little  ferry-boat  carried  me  to  the  hii,diest  point  on  the  American  side  which 
overlooks  the  falls,  l-'or  a  small  remuneration  a  car  |)ropelled  l>y  machinery  spares 
you  the  fati.i,'iie  of  the  ascent,  and  comfortably  seated,  transports  you  above  the 
cataract,  which  here  is  seen  in  profile,  while  under  your  very  feet  the  rushinjLf  llood 
covers  the  tops  of  tlu;  rocks  w  ith  lo.im,  and  leaps  shivcrinij  into  the:  abyss. 

A  little  above  the  falls,  a  bridi,^!!  juis  been  thrown  across,  which  i,dves  access  to 
("loat  Island.  This  passat^^e  would  be  frii,ditful,  wen;  it  not  for  the  little  rocky  islets 
which  ar(!  posted  like  sentinels  aloni,''  the  borders  of  the  precipice.  The  scenery 
speculators  l^ave  covered  the  island  with  j,nMcefully  windinj^''  paths,  from  which  there 
arc  beautiful  views  at  every  step  of  the  rapiils  in  the  river  above  the  falls.  The 
banks  of  this  impetuous  torrent,  and  some  litth;  islanils  a<,Minst  which  it  incessantly 
rages,  bear  witness  to  the  strni^j^h;  between  the  elements,  and  both  are  scatteretl 
over  with  uprooted  treis.  The  hull  of  a  vessel  stranded  on  the  rocks,  adds  to  the 
effect  of  this  picturi;  of  destruction.      The  aL,dtated  waves  all  seem  to  hurr)-  on  their 


!l 


i  ' 


iv  t, 


'J 


TO 


I 


.,(♦ 


Ill  this  sill,  in.irinc  l^.ilh  r\  tlx  \isiioi  is  ;ilu;i\s  exposed  to  iliese  cniinliliiiJLfs  of 
the  rii.k.  uhidi  li.i\e  sevei.il  times  (h.ini^'il  ill'"  aiipe.ir.iiuc  of  the  l-'alls  of  Niaj,Mra. 
\.\in  reieiiiK.  ( (inside  ralile  masses  liave  fallen  from  both  hanks.  Tin;  river,  in  fact, 
is  e<)nst,mtt\  we.irinL^  ;i\v.i\  die  surfice  ol  th<'  roik  over  which  it  runs,  and  the 
liillows  of  the  e.it.irai  t  ,ire  i  (msMiiily  L^ii.iuiiiL;  at  its  li.ise. 

(leolc.yisis  assure  us  til, It  ilie  fills  reireal  coniiniialU ,  and  apjiroach  nearer  and 
iie.irer  ti>  i..ike  I  rie.  1  hey  .isseii  that  the  rocky  line  w.'is  formerly  near  Lcwiston, 
in  si^^lit  of  L.ike  ()iit.ui<),  I'erh.ips  the  dike  which  now  separates  the  t^-  '  '  ., 
(ontiniialK  (liminishini^  in  thickness,  will  eventually  disappear,  and  the  It  w  1  o|  tin; 
two  l.iki  s.  niiw  SI)  dittirent.  hi'  the  same. 

Resides  the  (  riiiiihliii^  of  the  rmks,  the  visitor  runs  otlnr  risks  of  dani,'er,  tin 
iuimerniis  |e;^ends  ci  iniernin,!^^  w  l;i(  li  milv  tno  clearl)'  |)ro\(  the  nalit).  i.tiwecn 
the  piiints  of  hl,i(  k  riK  k  wliii  h  project  ahi)\e  the  sheet  of  i;reen  water  on  the  very 
hrink  of  the  t.ill,  .i  poor  fishifin.in,  uliose  ho,it  had  heen  drawn  into  the  current, 
liuni,'  suspended  for  ,1  d,i\  .iiid  ,1  nij^lil  ai;oni/.ini,'  over  tl'e  ahjss,  heyond  th(!  reach 
of  all  human  lulp.  Ih  mi^lit  have  died  of  him^;er  and  coUl  in  sij^du  of  hoth  hanks 
if  ,1  furious  w.i\e  h.iil  not  i.iised  him  up  .it  last  i'.iul  hrouqlit  him  an  e.isier  auA 
speedier  de,nh.  Mere.  W  here  tile  fill  of  I'ahle  kock  ll.ls  left  such  .1  '^H\)  ill  the 
roi  k\  \\,ill,  .1  yoimt,^  ,!.^irl  formerl)  Ii  .iiied  oxer  to  j^Mtlier  a  llower  which  <^rrw  in  a 
se.im  of  the  ro(  k.  \\lii  n  m.iidi  n  .md  llower  rolled  ioL;ether  to  the  holtom  of  the  i^ulf 
There,  ,1  \ouniL;  i  oiiple,  m.irried  onl)  the  clay  hefon-,  were  standiiiLj  toj^'ether  with 
no  thoiii^hi  of  daiii^er.  The  \oimL,f  wife,  her  hand  claspint.j  that  of  her  husband, 
attempted  to  stand  upon  .i  point  ot  nu  k  lovered  with  damp  moss, — her  foot  slijiped 
.md  he  w.is  dra^i^ed  down  to  de.iih  with  herself  to  whom  she  had  just  consecrated 
her  life.  .\nd  lor  in  ixoiis,  seiisitixc  i-rL^ani/alions,  the  l,iscinations  of  the  ahyss  ar<; 
to  he  leared,  whu  h  .ire  no  less  re.il  th,in  those  which  the  serpent  throws  around  his 
viclim.  ( )ne  d  m\  i^uides  rekiic  d  tin  lollowiiii^  incident,  in  which  he  h.ad  heen  hoth 
witness  and  actor. 

He  had  conducted  a  I.kIn  and  her  dau!.,duer,  a  charmin},^  ^irl,  to  one  of  the 
accessihie  points  of  rock  the  firlhesl  within  the  snioke  of  l/ic  walcrs,  when  i\w. 
romantic  younj^  jrirl,  standin^f  erect  on  the  \cry  hrink  of  th(;  |)recii)ice,  with  her  hair 
.md  jLjariiK  nts  tlo.itiiit.;  in  t'.ie  wind,  seemed  so  completely  ahsorhed  in  tin;  C(>iUeni- 
|il,itioM  o!  tile  wild  scene  lienciih  their  feet,  that  the  (.[iiiile,  alarmed,  seized  her  arm 
aaid  told  her  she  was  iinnecess,u"ily  e.\|iosin!.,f  herself  to  y;^rv:\\.  dani^er. 

"Oh!"  she  replied  smilinsj;-.  "there  is  no  daiiLj.  r,  even  if  I  wen-  to  throw  myself 
over  there.  Do  you  think  I  could  hurt  myself  on  hose  impalpable  i  loiids  of  dew.'* 
!  should  (kvit  in  ilum  like  a  balloon.  Mother,  I  want  to  try  to  lly!"  The  terrified 
mother  and  the  ^\\h\v  hastened  to  dr.iw  her  hack,  thc)u,!.,di  not  without  difficulty,  and 
the  yoiinjr  visionar\  was  no  sooner  awakined  from  her  terrible  ihdirium,  than  she 
sank  fainting  on  the  jjjruund. —  Tour  dn  .\iindi\ 


I    i: 


TIIK    (  HTHHJICT. 


*()kMI\(i  lilt  (.'.ii.ir.ui  111  \i.io;,,-,i  .Iff  tlirci-  stp.iiMli'  I'.ills,  pro- 
(liiicd  li\  tile  inn  TMiuiiiii  1)1  isl.iiiils  dividing  tlic  ri\tr  in  its 
tlist  ciKliiii^  coiiiM  ,  ,in<I  |iii  siciuiiiL;,  on  tliiir  sduilnrn  sidi  s,  liii^di 
|)n(  i|)i(  (•-,.  the  (  xtiiisidii  dI  wliit  li  Idnns  llic  .irr.i  ol  dcMiiu. 
1^',  I  liat  portion  ol  tin-  lorrctu  \\lii(  li  is  l)ct\\iin  ( ioal  .uu\  l.iin.i 
Isliiiuls,  is  calli'd  tin-  ('<  ntr.il  I'.ill.  IJcluccii  the  Aimriian 
slioH'  .mil  l.iMi.i  Island  i-^  llif  Anuiii  an  lall;  and  llu'  Urilisli 
or  Morse  Slioi-  lall.  Iiciwicn  ( io.n  Isl.ind  .md  tlu'  Canadian 
shore.  1  he  two  tornier  Casiades  \  ie\v<'d  to^^iiher  .n'e  iiMi.ill)  i.dle<l 
the  .Anieriian  lall.  and  have  a  descent  ol  on<  hundred  and  sixty  loin' 
leet  :  iheystretih  to  .m  e.MenI  ot  one  ihoMsand  feel.  I  Iw  I  lorse  Shoe 
I  all  is  the  l.ui^isi  portion  ol  the  Cat.iract,  hasinj^  an  c.xlcnl  of  two 
thousand  and  one  hinidred  I'eei.and  a  hei^^dit  ol  one  hiinilred  and  lilly- 
cij^dit  lei  t.  Its  shape  is  more  like  an  Indian  how  than  a  horsi'  shoe, 
till-  (  ur\c  ol  uhi(  h,  in  its  icnter,  is  alwa)s  ohscnrcd  hy  the  tlouils  of 
vapor  lh.it  ascend  from  thi'  turluili  nt  tide  lielow.  The  water  is  pre- 
cipitated over  a  IciIl^i'  ol  rocks  in  a  compact  mass  into  a  chasm,  the  de|)th  of  wlii(  h 
has  never  heen  ( once  lly  ascert.iimd.  I'Vom  the  violeiK  c  and  rapidity  of  the  water 
l)«'l()vv.  all  etiorts  to  lalhom  it  have  heen  vain;  hut  it  is  supposed  to  he  ahout  two 
luinclrc'il  and  forty  feet  deep. 

X'arious  attempts  have  heeii  made  to  arrive  at  a  correct  estimate  of  the  amount 
of  water  p.issim,f  over  the  precipice  of  Niaj^Mra.  \)r.  Dwij^ht.  takin^.^  the  depth, 
width,  and  velo(  ity  of  the  i  urrent,  as  his  data,  caUiiIated  that  more  than  ci-^duy  five; 
millions  of  tons  went  over  per  hour.  Hy  another  calculation,  supposiniL,^  the  (  urrent 
to  run  at  the  rate  of  six  miles  per  hour,  instead  of  live  as  in  tlie  first,  the  (|u.intity 
has  lieen  estimated  at  the  r.ite  of  i()2,ik);v75'>  ions  per  hour.  Km  this  estimate  of 
the  velocit)  of  the  tide  is  re^jarded  as  too  lii.^h.  a  point  iiowever  which  can  scarcely 
he  decided  Upon  from  thi-  fierc<;ness  and  force  of  the  fallint,^  torrent.  Tht;  follovvinv,' 
tahli-  of  calcul.itioiis  respectini,^  the  amount  of  w.iier  llowiiii^r  down  the  Xi.iijjara  river, 
is  taken  from  the  l  ieoloj^ric.il  Surve)  of  the  State  ol   .\<'W  York. 


\\\    Dr.  Dvvij^ht,  it  is  estimated  at 
Hy  Mr.  I  ).irh> 


;, l,4(>j,74J  cuhic  feet  per  minute 
27,878,41x1 


Hv  Mr.  I'ick 


ens, 


I  ^i.C 


M>    Mr.  B.un  It, 


I(),5l)0,<XX) 


t* 


1'^ 


I'' 

IJ 


.If 


li:  ♦■! 


H 


Is: 


'I'lic  l.i-^t  tsiini.itc    is   (Voin    thnr  flilTcn  lit   oIim  rv.itiniis   m.ulf  .it    \\\,uk    Koik. 
I  he-   (AiniiKs    (it    ,ill    till-    (il)s(i\.ili()ns   ilii!    iiDt    \.ii)'   moif    tlian    jd.oijo   feet    per 

iiiiniitc.  It  will  lie  seen  from  tlm 
v.iriatitins  in  tiir  lorci^aMiii,'  calcula- 
lions  that  a  cornil  isiimatc  can 
scarrcly  hi'  arrived  at  upon  this 
point.  .\  ijrnrr.il  idea  therefore 
on!)' may  l)e  i^ainet!  of  the  immense 
(|iiantity  of  water  tliat  llows  so  iin- 
int<Triipte(ll\-  at  these  I'.ills.  This 
idea  mav  he  more  full\  impressed 
upon  tlie  mind,  hy  coiisiderinij  also 
the  fact,  that  the  lakes  and  triimlary 
streams  siippKini^  the  river  .Niaj^^- 
.ira,  coNcr  a  surface  of  ahout  ont: 
hundred  and  tifl\-  thousand  s(niar(; 
miles;  the  land  surface  drained  l>y 
them  measuri'iiL,'^  nearly  half  a  mil- 
lion of  s(|uare  miles.  The  spray 
.irisin,i4  from  this  immense  mass  of 
f.illinj^f  water  is  alwa\s  ascendini,', 
^^1  ami  visihle  in  movinj^  (dhimns,  it.v- 
( (pt  when  scattereil  ]>y  the  winds. 
It  assumes  a  pyramiilal  form,  and 
p.isses  of(  into  tloiids  thai  hoxcr 
o\ cr  the  point  from  which  it  ascends, 
.ind  is  seen  at  threat  ilistance. 

The  i,Mandesl  view  of  ever)  sh.ide 
of  (olor  iiuluded  in  the  niinhow, 
ui.i\  lie  seen  \i)  the  luuniinL^s  sun 
.ilioM'  the  I'alls.  i'rom  the  lu  .id  <•( 
ilie  rapids,  as  near  the  I'alls  as  pos 
sihie,   i^ii^.mtic  ( louds  ol   mi^ts  ar<; 

seen   .uisillL;   at    the  ed^i    ol   lliei.ll.i 

i.Kl.  Ill  p.ixNin-  slowl) ovir,  with 
ilie  sun  se\i  r.il  hours  liij^h  .it  your 
li.i'k.  <••,  er_\  i-oiui  ival'le  liu.  of  the 
idlors  ol    the   ramix  u    i.iii    l)t;   rx- 

imiiied   ill   turn,   at  leisure,   .i  si-lu   whiih   would   da/zle  an  artist  with  a  spc-ciunm 

if  n.iture's  paiiuini;  hard  to  iniit.iie. 


THK   ^OJll\  OF   TlIK   FfILL». 


'IVii  yens  Liter,  in  iSjS,  Sliiart  si.iii's  positively:  "W'l;  clisriiictly  lii.ird  ilie 
sound  of  tlu!  cataract,  about  ten  miles  Iroin  the  I'iills;  l)ut  '":.  is  olleii  lie.inl  at  a  l.ir 
^(rL'ater  ilisiaiuc  in  favorable  stall  s  of  ilie  wind  ami  alin()S|tliere." 

Charles  Dickens,  tin-  j^ncit  I'Jij^dish  no\ilist.  in  .  Iii/iiii,iii  Xolcs,  '^'ws  liis 
exjMTiince  as  follows.  "1  am  inclined  to  think  that  the  noise  of  the  I'alls  is  very 
much  e.\av;i,ferat<'d;  and  this  will  appear  the  more  probable  when  the  depth  ol  the 
j^freat  basin  in  which  the  water  is  receivt d  is  taken  into  account.     At  no  lime  durinij 


tl 


our  stay  there  was  the  wine 


lh( 


at  all 


lii'Mi  or  l)oistero»is, 


but 


we  nexcr 


h<ard  them  three; 


miles  off,  even  at  the  very  <|uiel  time  of  sunsi'l,  thou^li  we  olien  irictl." 

Some  assert  that  aloni^f  the  loiirse  of  the   rixcr,  the  sound  is  perceptibh'  at  a 
distanci:  of  fourteen  miles.      Vet  it  is  scarcely  heard  within  the  precincts  of  the  I'alls, 


abov<'  ami  at  a  little  distance;  from  them.      Indeed,  ih 


e  wolliWr  IS 


to  tl 


le  visitor,  not 


that  the  cadence  is  so  }.jrear,  but  so  small,  compared  with  the  (|uanlit\  of  w.iter  that 


falls 


rht  fr 


s  and  tile  immense  lieiylu  Irom  whicii  it  is  precipitated 


II 


J'l 


DKI'Tim   OF    MUC.UHn'S  qi\V()\, 


vj.  H.  iini.i.'iii 


I' 


I 

'i 

i.. 


:m 


1 1 


\\\  \  I  I  I  Ml'  I  s  u(  ri  m;uli  |iri\iniis  ici  ttic  L:<)\<riimii)l  Mirvry  in 
I  s-(,,  I,,  (ilii.iin  till  (l(|itli  111  ih.  w.ili  r  in  tlir  (.injon  licldw  tlw  ImIIs. 
r.,ii^  i«l  i.iiJKMil  imii,  |i.iiK  i>\  simirs.  ami  all  imnasoiialilr  iwn]  ;iuk\v;iril 
inslriiiiii  111  <  ui  i<  aliatli'ii  ii>  Inii;^  Inn-,  ami  lovviiid  tinin  tin-  rail\va\  siis|)ciisi(m 
liriil;^!.  Iiiit  |in,iii\i|\  II  liisi  (I  tip  sink.  rill'  iiasiiii  lur  this  is  ii|p\i()iis.  Ilnvrry 
l.iilk  III  tin  iiistniimnts  was  siitliui  lit,  im  inalt^  r  what  tlnir  uii;;lit,  U>  i^ixc  tin- 
|)i.\\(  iliii  iimii n  urn  lit  tin-  im  aiis  tu  hun)  tin  in  npnn  or  m  ai-  tlir  siirlaic.  (  )iir 
|iait\.  h'lui  \i  1.  with  a  small  sinimliiiL^  UaA  i>t'  Iwi  l\c  |)iMimls  wiii.;lit,  atlarhcd  In 
.1  sli  mill-  I  iml,  .  asil\  nlitaimil  tin  ili  jillis  In  iin  ilir  lalls  tu  tlir  fiiilw.i)-  sns|)fnsi(in 
liiiil:;!-.  (  )ni  ila\  ur  laiin.  In  il  a  small  Imat  at  tin  im  limil  riiilu.i),  and  cnlcrcd  on 
a  most  I M  iiiii-  ami  |ri  liiuu-  r\|i|oraiioii  ol  this  part  ot'  lln-  canvoii.  'I'hc  old  ,i,Miidc, 
lon;,r  in  ( liar-r  i>l  tin  miniature  Icrry  siuiati  d  inn-,  ai  i  funpanii-d  tin-  p.irt). 
With  ;;n  at  ilitlii  ult\  wi  a|i|iroai  In  d  w  itliin  a  short  distaiidol  ilir  American  I'alls, 
wliiili  dartiil  u;riat  jit.  ot  water  ti|ion  iis  ami  lar  out  into  the  stream.  I  he  roar 
w.is  so  lerrilile  'li.ii  m>  \oi(e  or  human  sound,  !iowe\er  mar  we  were  to  one 
aiioiln  r.  . diild  lie  he. ml.  I  In-  le.idsiii.in  i  asi  the  lint:,  wliii  h  passed  rapidi)  down, 
aint  told  ol  eii^liis  ihne  li  i  i.  This  w.is  quile  near  liie  shore.  I'assiiiL;  oiil  ol  the 
IrieiidU  I  ilil\  wliiili  h.id  .issisied  us  so  ne.ir  the  I'alls  we  shot  riipidl)'  down  the 
stn  .im,  riie  m  At  i  .ist  ol  tin  h  ,id  read  one  hundred  ti-et.  deepeiiinir  to  one 
hinnlreil  nnl  iiiintv  three  leei  ,ii  the  iiulim-d  r,iilwa\.  The  average  depth  to  the 
Swill  |)iili,  where  tin  river  suddenly  hecomes  n.irrow,  with  a  velocity  too  i^reat  to 
lie  im  ,isured,  w.is  one  liumlndaiid  liltv three  jeei.  Just  umler  the  railwa\'  lirid}.;!: 
the  whirlpool  r.ipids  si  t  in,  and  so  \iolentl)  are  the  waters  aj^italed  that  thev  rise 
like  oicin  liillows  to  tin  In  iLjhl  ot  iwcni)  leei.  .\i  this  point  1  computed  tlie  depth 
at  two  hiindreil  .iml  ten  leei,  wliii  h  was  acrepied  as  appro.xiinately  rorn'ct. 

The  jMoloH^ical  lormation  ol  .\iai,Mra's  iaii)()n  is  too  well  undirstood  to  iiear 
(omiinnt.  Some  ot  the  lopoi^rraphical  appearames.  howcvi'r,  may  he  mentionccl. 
Die  ,in\oiis  w.ills  r.in;,^!-  Iroiii  two  hundnd  .iinl  se\eiit\  to  three  hundred  .ind  si.\t\' 
leet  in  In  i;,iit  .ilio\  e  ilii  w  iter  lr \  el.  ( )|  I  oiirsi  .  they  an  hiL,diesl  .it  their  termina- 
tion .It  l.ewisiou,  where,  on  the  opposin  side,  till'  li.ise  ol  Uroc'k  s  .Monument  is 
three  hundred  aiiil  si\i\  Ine  leet  alxui  w.'iter  in  tiie  canyon.  The  walls  are 
continually  truniMini;  owini;  to  the  .n  tion  ot  the  attnos|)hen'.  trost  and  mini.itiire 
sprinL;s.  lln  i/,/'n.\  is  driv.n  out  into  Lake  ( )ntario.  lorminiL,''  what  an  known  as 
tin  hri(  ki)at  Shoals,  silu.ili  d  time  ,.  I  ,i  h.ilt"  miles  Irom  the  rivers  mouth.  Tlie 
rivi'r  within  the  walls,  more  espei  iailv  when  the  can\(:n  is  narrow,  is  siiiiject  to  rise 
and  I, ill  .11  short  inti  rv.iK,  it'  the  wind  is  In.iv  v  on  I,, ike  i.rie. 


M 


[ 


AMIMICAK    rAM.a  rPOM  H'^Al    ITiI.AKD. 

♦*5 


u^ 


/ 


\l: 


UN    KNr.hlJSIl    IJ\(  hF/H   ftTOHV. 


HO 


Mirj^cs,  shakiiij4  llu'  lij^lil  l)ritli(c.  iiiul  ((m  rini;  us  wiili  s|ir.i),  (  )ii  (io.Hn  i->l.iii(l  we 
made  oiir  way  ainon;,'  old  and  vincralilc  trees,  (atcliiin,'  at  intervals  j.jlim|ises  of  ilic 
white  foam,  fecliii).,'  the  ^Toimd  trcinhlc  heneatli  our  feet,  and  hiMriiii,'  at  ,i\\  times  tiie 
roar  of  the  rapids,  and  the  dec|)  solemn  \oiceof  ihe  lataract.  I  realK  saw  Imi  little 
of  the  I'alls  that  nij,dil,  hut  up  hetimes  next  morning  I  saw  them,  and  sli,!'!  ne\er 
forj.,'et  the  sij,dit. 

The  sun  was  shining,'  hri^ditly,  the  sky  IntenseK  hhie.  the  emerald  waters  ^dided 
over  till'  precipic  e  in  one  immense  sheet,  a  vast  column  of  white  spra)  ri>se  from  the 

rivrr   .IS  [\u-   waters  ( 1  no  terror  in  the  feel 

fell,  .uid  j^littered  in 


the  lij^ht  like  a  veil 
of  silver.  Thedeip, 
dark  river,  narrowed 
and  compressed  he 
tween  almost  per- 
pendit  ular  hanks, 
went  on  its  wa)'. 
These  hanks  w<re 
richly  clothed  with 
v«'^fetalion,  trees  and 
shrid>s  enlwinecl 
thc-ir  hranches  in  the 
most  fantastic- 
shapes.  We  j,'azeil 
upon  the  wonderful 
scene  with  an  inde- 
scrihahlc-  sense  of 
awe — ntiver  hefore 
had  I  felt  so  true;  u 
sense  of  (iod's  pres- 
ence— but  there  was 


III'IPAI.   BTAIWCAK   'iM     Pll.   CAHADA    tIDK. 


in^'  —the  voice;  of 
the  miL;ht)-  w.iter 
spoke  the  lanj,Mia;,n' 
of  pe,i('e.  ( )f  course 
we  "saw  '  the  halls 
in  the-  rc'ujul.u"  wa)'. 
and  the"  cmwninL.^  at- 
traction of  all  this  is 
the-  i^real  fe.ll  called 
"LIoinL;  hehinci  the 
sheet,"  ancNpedition 
not  attended  with 
any  danger  in  real- 
ity, hut  so  fearful  in 
the  appnhi-nsion 
and  exec  ution  as  to 
he  a  subject  of  much 
conversation  both 
ix'fore  .md  after. 
1  le  was  a  hold  man 
who  first  entered 
that    blindim^r    mist, 


and  penetrated  throuj^h  the  darkness  and  mystery  to  the  platform  he-hind  the  fallini;; 
water,  called  "TcTmination  Kock;  and  as  you  stand  .ihove.  lookin^^  clown  on  the; 
hurly-burly,  you  feel  that  thoujfh  the  thinj,'  is  done  daily,  it  re<|uires  the;  exercise  of 
a  faith  and  c-oura},M'  which  many  otherwise  brave  men  may  not  |)ossess.  The  prepara- 
tions are  not  of  a  nature  to  raise;  ()n(;'s  spirits.  When  a  party  is  ,irran<,'ecl.  the  ladies 
and  i^fentlenn-n  retire  to  dressint^'-rooms,  where-  they  divest  themselves  o|  their  ap- 
parel, and  are-  clothed  in  cold  clammy  oilskin  dresses,  vvilh  capuchin  hoods,  and 
he-avy  boots  or  shoes.  'Ihe)  look  like  ,i  part)'  of  Cirmeliies  in  i^freen  .uid  \(llow 
robes,  and  .ire  watched  with  ;;real   intiresi   by   those-   who  an-  too  timid  or  loo  wise; 


♦••, 


1^ 


I 


!  I(    I 


'"f-  • 


:  AOi:    L  SDLl'     1  HI.    I  / 


l(>  Join   lliiin.  as   they  drsdnil   tlu'   <  lilt    li\    ,i    ilcvirly  Kinstnutrd   stainasc.   ami 
siramlilin^'  aiiinnj^f  lonsf  stones   (lisa|i|M  .ir  in  ilir  spray. 

'I'hr  j^Miidi'  ^'»  s  ii)  Irniii,  lioldin.^-  tin  tnsi  pi  isun  li\  tin  li.md,  and  tin-  rrst  loHow 
in  sinj^di-  Idi',  linktil  loc.nli  nilnr.  ||ir  s((n<  miisi  lie  olisir\rd  to  lir  imdnstood. 
Yon  hrst  cnionnliT  .i  tiniin  sioiin  ol'  s|)r.is.  a  sort  ol  whirlwind  tTcatfdli\  tin- 
n'l)oiindini^'  ol  tlw  laijini^  watir,  .uid  llic  i  srapini^  ot  tin  intprisomd  .lir,  wliitli  takis 
away  yoin'  liriMili,  and  \<iii  nisli  nradK  on  in  tin  ilarkn<  ss,  on  a  sloping,'  Icdj^r  alioiii 
rlj^lilrni  inclii's  widi-,  liolilin;^^  to  a  rope  wliii  li  is  tit d  I'or  .1  part  o|  ilir  way  to  tin' 
nu  k.  Till'  j,'iiidi'  shouts  «n(  ourai^iimnt  in  Iront.  and  ii  any  ont-  stops,  as  is  sonn- 
liinrs  tile  case,  Iroiii  I  error  or  e\h,  nisi  ion.  In'  will  jump  down  and  ctMne  l>at  k  to  render 
assistancf.     After  passing;  a  <  onsideralile  dist.MKe  in  this  manner.  )oii   will  arri\<   at 


a  clear  s  pa  i  <•, 
where  yon  can 
l)reallic  rreely.ami 
look  ai,Minst  the 
fallini;  water;  and 
)(iu  will  Inid  yonr 
self  under  a  kind 
of  ( lotliie  an  h, 
fornii'd  l>y  the 
eiirvinj.,^  outward 
of  the  eatarat  t, 
anil  the  retrialinj.; 
tlilf  over  whi(  h  it 
is  pret  ipiiated. 
This  open  spate 
t  (in  I  i  n  n  e  s    lo  r 


m  a  n  y      y  a  r  d  s 
further.      A    ( ur 
iolls  'M'een  sort  ol 


Irom  the  overh.ni;^inj4   tli 


1    lij,dit  en.d)les   )ou 

'    to  distinj^uish  the 

'    ]L;i<>tes<|ue     forms 

of  your    compan 

I    ions,   and    the 

stran^-e  t  ,i\ern  in 

whit  h  )tiu  are  en 

iltisetl.   ant!   Irom 


r!  '1    whit  h  there  are  nti 
I         \isil)|e    means    of 


cj^ress.  .\t  aliont 
thirty  let  t  Ill-lore 
)tiu  is  the  o\fr- 
w  helmii\^  torrent, 
in  I  t)lorof  the  pur 
est  emeralil,  anti 
liene.llh  \tiur  feel 
iheliliikell  inas;,es 
I .  whit  h   have  lallen 

The  sound  of  the  water  is  mut  h  less  than  mii^dit  lie 
antitipated,  and  is  not  suIVk  lent  to  prevent  t Duversation  ;  l)ut  there  is  ,1  soli  inn 
earnestness  in  the  ro.ir  of  the  1  rashim^  element  around  you,  whiih  coiuivs  to  the 
miiitl  the  idea  of  its  irresistihie  power  perh.ips  more  fonilily  than  in  any  other 
position.  There  is  also  a  painful  sense  of  inset  urily,  Irom  the  exceedin^l)  solt 
anil  destriKtihIe  nature  of  the  i  lilf  at,Minst  whidi  \t)ii  stand,  sheltered  liy  the  pro 
jectinj,'  masses  of  rot  k  .1  hundred  feet  almve,  .Xficr  remainins^'  a  few  minutes,  earh 
visitor  setures  a  small  piei  c  of  the  cliff  as  a  memento  of  the  success  of  his  ailventure; 
and  the  <,uiitle,  passing'  in  front  of  the  party,  leatls  you  out  throut,di  the  lilimlim;  mist 
and  spra) ,  ^latl  to  reiiirn  to  the  outer  woiid  oiiif  more. 


^, 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0 


1.1 


11.25 


1^128     |25 

itt  1^   |22 

ui    lii 

U2.    12.0 


us 

■il 


—    6" 


I; 
I 


U   11.6 


Photographic 

Sciences 
Corpyralion 


23  WEST  MAIN  STMH 

WfBSTH.N.Y.  14SM 

(716)  172-4503 


) 


fe 


%" 


f 


T''i 

f ' "" 

1 

J- 

1 


Hi 


A  certificate,  sij^nctl  by  thr  ^iiidc,  is  rriven  to  cacli  of  tli(>  party,  wlio  an-  lirncc- 
forth  considered  entitled  to  ,L,n-eat  consideration  so  Ioiil,--  as  tiu-y  remain  in  the  vicinity. 

rilK    WIllKl.l'onl  . 

The  scene  which,  next  to  the  cataract  itself,  possesses  the  cfreatest  interest  and 
beauty,  is  the  whirlpool,  about  thnu;  miles  below.  The  river,  which  above  the  I'alls 
is  upwards  of  a  mile  in  witlth,  is  hen-  compressed  into  a  sftace  of  500  fc:et,  and  runs 
with  ama/.ini,'-  velocil)-  throuLjh  a  ravine  bounded  l)y  cliffs  more  than  _;oo  feet  in  heii;ht. 
In  this  part  of  its  course  it  makes  nearly  a  rii^dit  ani^le,  and  has  worn  away  in  the 
solid  rock  an  enormous  circular  chasm  sever.il  hundred  yards  in  diameter.  The 
rapids,  instead  of  dashiuL;  over  successive  ridi^cs,  seem  to  be  occasioned  by  the 
opposint,''  currents,  and  the  sudden  compression  of  so  prodiq;ious  a  (juanjL'ffy  of  water 
which  is  forced  in  the  centn:  of  the  stream  to  an  elevation  of  10  feet  above  the  sides. 
As  the  river  escapes  into  the  chasm  above  mentioned,  it  forms  the  whirlpool,  and, 
after  endless  circles,  passes  off  throu,ijh  another  ravine  to  the  Lake  Ontario.  To 
reach  the  bank  of  the  stream,  we  had  to  descend  perpendicularly  by  a  rude  staircase 
cut  on  the  face  of  the  cliff,  sometimes  swint^inq;  from  one  tret;  to  anoUier,  and  some- 
times literally  crawling  on  our  hands  and  knees.  At  tlu;  bottom  we  found  ourselves 
in  the  midst  of  confused  masses  of  limestone,  and  were  almost  deafened  by  the  noise 
of  the  turbulent  stream,  which  threw  up  its  rich  green  waves,  leaping  and  dancing 
and  falling  back  u[)on  each  other,  while  the  foam  rose  many  feet  above  our  heads. 
The  rocks  are  of  most  fantastic  shapes,  and  we  crept  along  among  them  for  al)out 
half  an  hour,  in  search  of  one  called,  from  an  Indian  legend,  the  Manitou,  which  is  of 
immense  size,  while  the  scene  from  its  summit  is  most  extraordinary.  The  finest 
view  of  the  whirl[)Ool  itself  is  obtained  from  the  Canadian  shore,  where  you  can 
overlook  the  immense  amphitheatre  from  the  top  of  the  cliff.  In  the  centre  of  the 
waters  was  a  vast  log,  which  had  been  carried  round  and  round  in  tlie  vortex  for 
many  days,  but  was  doomed  finally  to  be  engulfed.  A  tale  is  told  of  an  Indian 
woman,  whose;  lover  had  been  drowned  here  in  an  attempt  to  escape  from  a  hostile 
chief.  She  determined  not  to  survive;  him;  and,  launching  her  canoe  on  the  river, 
was  carried  down  into  the  pool,  where;,  for  several  days,  she  was  seen  whirled  round 
in  the  magic  circle,  still  singing  her  death-song,  till  at  length  the  frail  bark  was  drawn 
into  the  gulf  below. 

**  sn.I'lUR    SPRINGS. 

There  are  some  fine  sulphur  s|jrings  near  this  point  on  the  American  sidi",  which 
form  most  pleasant  anil  health-giving  badis,  and  are  much  frequented.  \ear  them 
is  a  platform  called  tin;  Devil's  Rock,  worn  by  water,  ami  most  probably  the;  site;  e)f 
some  ancient  cataract,  if  ne)t  the  great  balls  themselves,  which  manj'  su|)pose  have; 
retreated  in  the;  course  of  ages  from  this  place  to  their  pre-seMit  pe)sitie)n.  Great 
changes  have  e-videnUy  taken  place;  the  cataract  is  not  what  it  was,  as  first  se'e-n  by 
the  French  discoverers,  and  I'adier  Hennepin's  de'scription  can  scarcely  be  re'ce)nciled 
with  its  prcse-nt  appearance. —  U'o/idrrs  of  the   M'orld. 


ex 


!> 


■if 


.A 


\ 


HLI^XING   OF   THK  CpROliINE. 

Rn  Iti;:ldpm  i;f  ttiR  Patriot  War  In  1837, 

oNl'"  A  1,1.  tli<'  places  in  the  wnrKl  lor  a  naval  (■n.[,raj:,rcincnt  t.ht;  head  of  the  Upper 
^  Kapiils  of  ihc  .\iaJ,^'lra  River  would  seem  to  be  the  last  one  chosen.  The 
neeessities  of  war,  however,  l)roii,i,dit  about  a  miniature  battle  in  the  immediate 
vicinit)-  of  the  raj^nuLT  walirs.  Mr.  11.  T.  Allen  in  his  j,ruide  to  Niagara  Falls  gives 
an  excellent  version  v(  the  affair,  well  worthy  of  preservation  as  a  reliable  page  of 
modern  historj'. 

"In  iS;,7,  a  rebellion  was  stirred  up  against  the  authorities  of  Canada,  by  some 
disaffected  •  Radicals,'  under  the  leadership  of  \Vm.  Lyon  McKenzie  and  some 
others;  but,  llcr  Majesty's  subjects  not  caring  to  side  with  the  'Rebels'  in  any 
gn  at  number,  the  movement  was  speedily  put  down.  Hut  not  so  the  leaders. 
Ihey  -/.  I.  McKenzie,  (ien.  Sutherland,  and  five  and  six  and  twenty  others-— at  the 
suggestion  of  Dr.  Chapin,  of  Buffalo,  unfurled  du!  standard  of  rebellion  over  Navy 
Island,  designing  to  makt;  it  a  rc/ic/cz-ro/ts  for  the  restless  patriots  of  both  sides  of 
the  river,  until  sufficient  strength  should  be  gained  to  renew  the  attack.  Matters 
were  going  on  pleasantly — die  '  Patriots'  being  daily  edified  by  accessions  to  their 
strength,  though  greatly  demoralized  by  a  barrel  of  whiskey  that  found  its  way  to 
their  panting  hearts — when  the  difficulty  of  transporting  volunteers  and  supplies 
to  their  place  of  destination,  and  tin;  number  of  persons,  from  motives  of  business 
or  curiosit)',  constantl)'  desirous  of  passing  and  repassing  from  the  main-land  to 
th(;  patrii)t  camp,  suggested  to  Mr.  Wells,  the  owner  of  a  small  steamboat  lying  at 
Muffalo,  called  the  Caroline,  the  idea  of  taking  out  the  necessary  papers,  and  run- 
ning his  vessel  as  a  fi'rry  boat  between  the  American  shore  and  the  island,  for  his 
own  pi'cuniary  emohiment.  Accordingly,  Friday,  December  29,  the  Caroline  left 
Muffalo  for  .Schlosser;  and  after  having  arrived,  having  made  several  trips  during 
the  day,  on  account  of  the  owner,  was  moored  to  the  wharf  at  Schlosser  Landing 
during  the  night. 

"  Colonel  Allan  McNab,  then  commanding  at  Chippewa  a  detachment  of  Her 
Majestj's  forces,  having  got  word  of  the  enterpri.se  of  the  Caroline,  resolved  upon 
a  deed  which  relieves  the  farcical  story  of  the  rebellion  by  a  dash  of  genuine  daring. 
It  is  asserted  that  Sir  Allan  was  niformcd  that  the  Caroline  was  in  the  interests  of 
the  Patriots,  chartered  for  their  use,  and  intended  to  act  offensively  against  the 
Canadian  authorities.  Whether  this  be  true  or  not,  he  planned  her  destruction  that 
very  night.  P'or  this  purpose  a  chosen  band  was  detailed  and  placed  under  the 
command  of  Captain  Drew,  a  retired-on-half-pay  ofificer,  of  the  royal  navy. 

"At  midnight,  the  captain  received  his  parting  orders  from  Sir  Allan,  and  the 
chivalrous  band  departed  in  eight  boats  for  the  scene  of  their  gallant  daring. 

9'J 


"  Tlu:  unconscious  Caroline,  meanwhile  lay  peaceruliy  at  iier  niooiinys,  heiiealh 
the  stars  anil  stripes  of  lier  country's  banner.  As  the  tavern  at  Sehlosser — the  only 
building  near  by — could  accommodate  but  a  limited  number  of  persons,  several  had 
sought  a  night's  lodging  within  the  sides  of  the  boat.  Dreaming  of  mi  danger, 
they  had  retired  to  rest  unprovided  with  arms.  Thus  was  tin;  night  wearing  on, 
when  so  stealthily  came  the  hostile  band  that  the  faint  splash  of  muffled  ^ 
oars  was  the:  first  intimation  that  the  sentrj-  had  of  their  approach.  In  'h'j.^ 
reply  to  his  <iuestion,    'Who  goes  diere?'   camt;,   first    '  Friends /'  ^  J^ 

then  a  heavy  plashing  in  the  water;  then,  the  leaping  of  armeil'-'   ^;?^J'1 
men    to    the    deck.       The   bewildered    sU^epers    start    from    their 
dreams  and  rush  for  the  shore.      'Cut  them  ilown!"  shrieks  . 
the  heroic  Drew,  as  he  thrills  with  the  memor 
and    Nile — '  Cut    them    down,  give  no  quarter. 
More  or  less  injured,  they  escape  to  the  shore, 
with   life — all   but  one,   Durfee,  the  last  man   tc 
leave,  who  is  brought  to  the   earth  by  a   ])isto 
shot,  a  corpse!     A  few  minutes  and  the  Cai 
line  moves  from  the  shore  in  llames!   Down 
the  wild  current  she  speeds,  faster  anc 
faster,  flinging  flames  in  her  track,  till 
striking  the  Canada  waters  she  spurns 
the  contact,  leaps  like  a  mad  fury,  and 
in  a  moment  more  is  as  dark  as  the  ni 
around  her.      The  common  account  o 
affair  takes  it  for  granted  that  the  boat  went 
over  the  Canada  F"alls  aflame.     You  will  read 
of  the  fated  vessel  lifting  her  fairy  form  to  the 
verge  of  the  precipice,  lighting  up  the  dark  *'t/ 
amphitheatre  of  cataracts,  etc.,  to  the  end  of  endur- 
ance.    The  case  was  far  otherwise.     The  physician 
who  was  called  to  the  wounded  at  Schlosser  was  riding  up  the 
river's  bank  while  the  Caroline  was  descending  the  rapids.     The 
gendeman  testifies  that  the  boat,  a  perfect  mass  of  illumination,  lur  timbers 
all  aflam.e,*  and  her  pipes  red  hot.  instantly  expired  when  she  struck  the  cascade 
below  the  head  of  Goat   Island."      This  was    a  crushing   blow    to  the    rebellion. 

Burnt  Shu*  Bay  is  called  from  a  circumstance  connected  with  the  close  of  the 
French  war  of  1759.  The  garrison  at  Schlosser  had  already  made  a  gallant  resist- 
ance to  one  attack  of  the  English  and  were  preparing  for  another,  when,  disheartened 
by  the  news  of  the  fall  of  Quebec,  they  resolved  to  destroy  the  two  armed  vessels 
containing  their  military  stores.  Accordingly  they  brought  diem  to  this  bay  and  set 
them  on  fire.     The  wrecks,  even  at  this  day,  are  sometimes  visible. 

ua 


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I 

HOW    TO   hSEE    TIIK   (flTpi^flCT, 


,1,     U  ,     K  A  K  H  I    •  n  K  . 

IS  11  wortli  whilr  to  rcpori  ;m<l  (liscrilu'  truly  the  cxisliiiL;-  iniidiiioiis  at  Nia_t,fara 
laiK.-'  I  hdii-litrul  |ii(>|)lc  liiul  this  a  placi'  of  woiulfrful  iinrrcsl,  of  iinpar- 
alli  l((l  atiractiiiii:  \(t  sonic  ol  llicir  most  vivid  iniprcssions  ami  ri'mcMnbraiices 
of  ilir  spot  arc  cmiiicinl)-  iinsalisfaclory  ami  ilisaL^rccahlc.  'I'lic  sccniTy  here  has 
,^\^  alisolulcK  cxiiausllcss  vitality.  Its  hcaiit)  j;ro\vs  ii[)Oii  ever)-  observer  who 
remains  lonuf  enough  to  reroL,nii/e  the  truth  that  the  spc.'ctacle  upon  which  he  uazes 
is  n<\(r  i\vi(('  the  s.inie.  The  Ioniser  one  stmlics  the  view  at  some  points  the  more 
iinwillinL^  he  is  to  turn  a\va\'.  it  is  like  leaving  a  j)la)  of  entrancing  interest  which 
has  not  \ci  ended.  .\ml  here  the  play  never  entls.  'i"his  is  the  sji'reat  characteristic 
ot  Nia^.u-a, —its  '•inlniitc  variel) ."  There  are  several  |)laces  in  the  rapids,  and 
cspe(  i.ill\  about  the  head  of  (ioat  Island,  at  each  of  which  th(!  changini,^  show  of 
tlie  forms  and  motions  of  the  water, — llinging,  tossing  ilying,  e.xploding,  thrown 
high  into  the  air  in  great  revolving  bands  and  zones  of  crystal  drops,  shooting  aloft 
in  shridcr,  vertical  jets  of  feathery  spra\-,  swinging  in  wide-based,  massive  waves 
like  tiiose  of  the  ocean,  or  gathered  into  billows  which  forexcr  break  and  fall  in 
I  ur\  ing  ( ascades,  and  \(t  seem  not  to  fall  because  they  are  every  moment  renewed, 
— arc;  worth  a  journc)  across  the  contincMit  to  see, 

lot  r  Ki'AKAri:  w.\ri;KiAi,i.s. 
Then'  is  .i  great  variet\-  of  beauty  and  interest  even  in  tlie  I'alls  themselves. 
As  Luna  island  divides  the  American  I'all,  making  a  beautiful  separate  cascade  of 
the  narrow  stream  which  runs  next  to  Cioat  Island,  so  the  small  island  called 
Ti'rrapin  Rocks  (on  which  Terrajjin  Tower  formerlj-  stood)  cuts  off  a  broader  por- 
tion ol  the  stream  on  the  Canaiiian  side  of  (lOat  Island,  and  makes  a  separate 
cataract  there.  Thus,  when  the  spectator  is  on  tht;  lower  end  of  Goat  Island,  there 
is  on  (alii  sid(.'  of  him,  fu'st,  a  narrow  strait  or  portion  of  the  river,  just  large 
t^nousdi  to  form  a  tmc  fall  b\-  itself,  then  a  small  island,  and  further  on  a  ereat 
cataract, — the  .Xmerican  hall  on  one  side  and  the  Horse-Shoe  Fall  on  the  other. 
These  divisions  of  the  striam,  with  four  sei)arate  waterfalls',  different  in  volume 
ami  cnvironmeni,  ami  so  each  possessing  a  marked  individuality  of  character,  yet 
so  relati'd  to  each  other  that  they  may  be  regarded  as  forming  two  great  falls,  and 
also  as  constituting,  when  all  laken  together  the  one  gri'at  cataract  of  Niagara, — 
render  the  scene  far  more  beautiful  and  inlerestinsr  than  one  t'Teat  fall  of  the 
umlivided  river  coukl  possibly  be;  while  the  fact  that  the  height  of  the  fall  is 
everywhere  very  nearly  the  same  maintains  the  impression  of  a  complete  and  all- 
encompassing  unity  in  the  central  spectacle  of  the  place 


m 


06 


■  lb 


:  Hi 


'I'Ik  If  is  -n  ,ii  \,iri<  i\,  ,i-,iiii,  in  tin  lines  ,>[  \\\r  <  iir\cs  made  l)y  llir  (l<'s((n(lin,t,f 
w.iirr  ,is  it  Jr.iMs  tlir  lifiDk  i <\  tlu  t.ill,  .Is  ,n)  .iitist  woulcl  .it  iMKc  oliscrvc.  .iiul  soiiur 
ot  ill!  -,.■  (  ur\.  s  ,u-r  Udnilrrl'iilK  ni.iji  sti(  .mil  liciiitiliil.  'I'licrr  .ut  aisi)  muny  clilfcrcnt 
(  ui\i  s  ami  irn  -iii.ir  \ , ni.it ii ms  in  the  lim  nl  tln'  tup  (<v  \>v<y\  ol  llic  precipice  over 
\\hi(li  till-  w.iter  rolls;  .md  wliili  tm-  the  most  |..irt  the  w.iier  lalls  slii'er  ami  frci'  iVoin 
the  edt^e  (ij  thi  i  lill  till  it  strikes  the  slun.s  at  the  lidtliim,  there  ar(  in  sonic  places 
projcctin-  nxks.i  liiile  w.iy  IhIou  the  top  of  the  l.ill,  npoii  which  llic  (lcsc('n(lin,>,f 
stn-.nn  is  luoken,  ami  Irom  \\hirh  it  is  thrown  lor  the  rest  of  llu'  way  clown  into  new 
lines  of  movement  ami  m  w  torins  ol  lie.mty,  thus  .iddin.n  anodicr  clciiiciU  of  variety 
to  the  lai  !■  of  the  (at.ir.ii  1.      In  soire  places  the  stream  jionrs  with  a  stead)-  roar  into 

in  others  it  dashes  witli 
what  m'reater,  and  in  the 
central  |)ortions  of  the; 
(Ireat  or  llorse-Shoe  I'all 


sonndless  <lepths  of    waur  at  the  looi  ol    the    precipice 
indesi  rihalile    \  io 


leiK  (•    Upon    en  at 
ni.isses    of    rock 
below,  from   which 
it  is  lun'led  outward 
with   terrific    force 
in  hissint,''  streams  and 
spouts  of  spra\ .      The 
color  of  the  falling'  water 
.also  \aries    ever\where. 
It  is  of  snow\-,  dazzling' 
whiteness  where  the  cur- 
rent is  shallow  al)o\'e,  aiK 
the   descendinii^r  stream 
conseciuently  thin.     There 
is  a  little  L,rreen  minl^dec 
with  the  white  where  the 
volume  of  water  is  some 


ON*    GOAT   1"L<\N'D. 


the  deep,  intc:nse,  solid 
_t,n"een  of  the  water  has  a 
wondc:rful  vitality  and 
heaut)'.  The  ma_i,niificent 
framework  of  yreen  foli- 
iv^i:  in  which  this  glorious 
spectacle  of  the  myriad 
forms  and  shows  of  mov- 
ing' watc!r — from  the  wild, 
H'ay  tossing  of  the  rapids 
to  the  solemn  fall  of  the 
cataract — is  set,  is  an  es- 
sential and  indispensable 
part  of  its  interest  and 
loveliness.     The   massive 


growth  of  trees  and  envciloping  vine  canopies  on  the  islands  and  river  shore  give  to 
the  scene  such  sylvan  aspects  of  grace,  of  softness  and  tenderness,  as  constitute 
some  of  the  chief  elements  in  its  unspeakable  charm,  and  some  .^f  the  most  forceful 
(lualities  by  which  it  makes  its  eternal  ap])eal  to  the  heart  of  man.  Niagara  would 
not  be  what  it  is  now  if  it  rolled  through  a  bare,  brown  desert  of  limestone.  It  is 
not  the  water — tin-  river — alone  that  gives  to  the  place  its  unequalled  attraction,  its 
companionless  grandeur  and  loveliness.  If  the  trees  should  be  destroyed,  and  the 
shores  and  islands  denuded  of  their  green  and  living  beauty,  the  waters  might  rush 
and  leap  in  the  rajjids,  and  roll  over  the  cliff  into  the  gulf  below,  as  now  ;  but  our 
sense-  of  their  sparkling  gladness  and  gayety,  and  of  the  tenderness  and  passionate, 
eager  )outhlulness  in  the  life  of  the  scene  would  be  gone.     The  sentiment  of  the 


place,  and  llic  tlioii,iL;hts  and  fcclinj^fs  aiipcalid  to  and  inspind  \<y  it,  would  lie 
wholly  ditTcrcnt  from  wh.it  tlicy  an'  now;  and  tin;)-  W(jiild  necessarily  lie  of  a  inueh 
lower  ordc:r  and  of  a  less  vital  (iiialily.  The  value  of  this  scener)-,  as  a  threat 
possession  lor  the  luiinan  spirit,  a  source  of  llpliftin!,^  vivifjini,^  inspiration  for  those 
who  can  receive  and  enjoy  such  inlluences,  woukl  he  terrihly,  fatall>-  impaired. 


WHY  SOMI-:  I'KKsoNs  AKi;  iii>.\ri'<iiMi;i). 

Soni(;  |H'ople  do  not  see  or  fi^el,  in  any  considerahk  decree,  th(;  s|)iritual  charm 
of  which  I  speak.  They  would  not  think  of  comiiiL,'  to  Xiaj^^ara  for  reinforcement 
of  strength,  for  soodiiny;,  healing  dcdights,  or  uplifting  peace,  or  for  help  of  any 
kind  for  the  tleeper  needs  of  this  life.  They  come  hither  because  it  is  the  fashion; 
the  place  lies  in  the  round  of  travel,  and  they  sit  in  their  carriages  at  th(;  top  of  the 
stairway  leading  down  to  Terrapin  Rocks  and  look  at  llu;  (ireat  I""all  for  a  minutt; 
and  a  half,  and  usually  remark,  as  they  pass  onward,  that  it  is  a  less  curious  ami 
interesting  spectacle  than  they  had  expected  to  see,  and  that,  "on  the  whole," 
Niagara  disappoints  them.  Of  course  it  disappoints,  and  must  forever  disappoint, 
all  who  look  at  it  in  this  foolish,  hurried  way.  It  recjuires  time  for  the  faculties  of 
the  human  mind  to  be  put  in  motion,  and  to  respond  to  such  a  spectacle  as  this. 
Nay,  it  takes  time  even  for  the  senses  to  recognize;  its  most  obvious  material  forms 
and  aspects,  anil  such  persons  do  not  give  themselves  time  even  for  that.  "  May  be 
I  can't  appreciate  it  as  some  can,"  they  say.  No;  they  might,  in  a  minute  and  a 
half,  "  appreciate  "  the  burst  of  colored  fire  from  a  sky-rocket,  and  enjoy  its  value  to 
the  full;  and  they  do  not  understand  that  Niagara  is  a  spectacle  of  another  order. 
Unless  they  can  become  more  thoughtful,  the  scene  here  is  not  for  Uiem. 

ThcTC  are  other  people  to  whom  Niagara  means  much.      It  offers  to  those  who 
are  weary  from  toil  of  any  kind,  of  hand  or  brain,  or  from  the  wearing,  exhausting 
quality  which  is  so  marked  in  modern  life, — it  offers  to  all  such  a 
vital  change,  the  relief  and  benefit  of  new  scenes  and  new  mental 
activities  and  experiences  consec[uent  upon  observing  them 
and  becoming   interested  in  them.     Then,  for  those  who 
will  give  time  and  opportunity  for  the  scene  to  make  its 
appeal,  time  for  dieir  minds  to  respond  to  its  inlluences, 
there  is  something  deeper  and  higher  than  this.    There 
is  a  quickening  and  uplifting  of  the  higher  powers 
.-^V        of  the  mind,  an  awakening  of  the  imagination; 
the  soul  expands  and  aspires,  rising  to  the  level 
of  a  new  and    mighty  companionship.      Self- 
respect   becomes    more    vital.       Good    things 
seem  nearer  and  more  real,  and  the  nobleness 
'  and  worth  which  but  now  we  thought  beyond 

07 


I  A 


,iii,iiniii<  III  li\  11^  ,i|'|i' ,ir  |i.iii  111'  iiur  iiilicrit.iiK  r  .i-.  rliiMnii  fl  ilic  Ili^licsL  I 
.1111  iKii  I  iiiK  1  111.  ,1  ii,  lnili(,iic  ilir  ilitl'm  111  w.iy-.  in  wliii  li  lln'  -■.iiuimnU  or  s|)irii 
III  till'  siiiii  r\,  n\.,ilri|  iliriiii-li  it-,  Iii(,il  ,is|)r(t->  iiinl  (  h.iiMiii 'ristii  s  of  iiirmilcly 
\,n  ii  il  '.•imikIi  111-  .111(1  111  ,1111  \ .  ,il  1.1'. t  ii|iiii-,  ( iiminiiiiicitiiiii  I'i'lwrcii  ilsclf  ami  what  is 
liiL;li<st  ami  mu^t  \lial  in  lln'  iiiiiul  ami  luarl  nf  man.  ll  is  liltK'  worth  while  t(i  try 
\ir\  li.inl  In  riijiiv  (ir  a|i|iirc  iair  XiaL^aiM.  It  is  wnrtli  wliilf  ti>  tr\-  to  sec,  to  Ix'COiiK! 
urjl  ,i(  (|u.iinti  (I  Willi  till'  r.inii  anil  a|i|iiaramr  (ilCuh  parliciilar  scciiu  iiiul  part 
111  llir  lamlsia|)r,  (  s) .i  (  iall)'  almiL;  iln'  rapiils  ami  river  shores,  and  about  the  falls  as 
sr.n  Inmi  ,iliu\(  ;  .iml  llnii.  willinul  any  straiiiin.L;-  after  lii,L;h  feelim^'  or  raptures  of 
,iii\  kiiiil,  line  is  lik(l\,  Ii\  ami  li\.  to  have  a  sense  that  the  \isit  to  \'ia!:,'ar;i  has 
Ik  111  a  (111  |i  ,111(1  \il,il  e\|iiricmi',  ami  th,il  the  pi. ice  has  lieeonie  a  real  resource  and 
possrssion  til  the  soul  lori\ir.  ll  is  eas)'  to  write  too  iiiucli  ami  to(j  particularly  ol 
all  this;  Inr  sik  li  expcricnees  and  feeliiiLjs,  like  all  the  hij^lu'r  moods  and  activities 
of  the  soul,  h,iv(  soinetliim,^  shy  .uul  elusive;  about  them,  and  it  is  not  often  best  to 
tr\  to  d(s(  rilic  iheiii.  And  Xiaj^'ara  itself,  in  its  soveroi,t,ni  diuTiiity  and  perfection, 
sli. lines  and  sileiK  is  all  effort  at  description  or  eulo^\'.  It  is  to  be  seen,  felt — not 
talked  about.  .Niid  as  the  weeks  and  months  pass  while  I  tlwell  here,  by  the  very 
shrine  of  this  awhil  beaiil)-,  this  \'eiled  and  shrouded  ^ramleur,  I  become  more  and 
more  unwilliuL,'^  to  write  about  it,  and  can  well  believe  that  if  one  remained  here  lonju^, 
all  attempts  .it  expression  rcL^artliiiL,'  it  would  ajipear  inappropriate  and  futile,  and 
that  sileiui:  would  seem  the  only  true  tribute,  i'erhaps  a  i^M'eat  artist  mi;L,dit  feel  an 
imap|)<'asable  loni^iiiL;"  to  express  his  feelings  upon  canvas, — if,  indeed,  the  scene  is 
not  loo   i^reat  to  be  iiaiiUed. 

Misisi;i)  (ii'i'oi<riNrni:s. 

Hill  I  write  of  Xi.i^ara  for  two  reasons:  one  is,  that  so  many  people,  who 
oui^dit  to  have  ple.isure.  and  ilelii^dit  in  seeini^  it,  now  come  heri:  and  i^o  away  without 
having  fi  It  tlelij^dit  at  all, —  s^o  away,  in  fact,  with  feeling's  of  disappointment  and 
vexation,  which  settle  at  l.ist  into  a  decideil  impression  and  permanent  runcmbrance 
ol  Niagara  as  a  di.sagreeable  place.  In  a  great  many  cases  this  might  bo  wholly  or 
in  a  very  great  measure  prevented;  and  it  is  for  this  reason,  and  not  at  all  for  the 
sake  of  any  attempt  at  description,  that  I  write  on  this  subject.  INIost  of  the  people 
who  come  hitlK.r  arc-  possessed  of  but  moderate  means  to  sustain  the  expenses  of 
travel  for  pleasuri;  or  nxrealion,  and.  in  consequence,  they  can  remain  at  the  Falls 
but  a  short  time.  \ow,  this  is  the  class  of  persons  who  most  need,  and  should  be 
able  in  greatest  degrt'e  to  enjoy,  whatever  delights  or  benefits  die  place  can  minister 
to  its  visitors.  The  rich  are  better  able  to  take  care  of  themselves,  here  as  every- 
where. Or,  il  the)-  do  not  know  how  to  enjoy  Niagara,  they  are  able  to  stay  long 
enough  to  learn,  liut  thousands  come  hither  for  whom  a  day,  or  two  days,  is  all  the 
time  that  can  be  devoted  to  this  experience.  If  people  will  manage  wisely  it  is 
worth  while  to  travel  live  hundred  miles  to  see  Xiag-ara,  even  if  they  can  remain 

1)8 


i 


i 


^1 


(•V 


^a 


^v 


hi  r<  lait  M\  liMiir..  \\'<A  |ic(.|,l(  wild  ,n<'  Ivy  Imt  I'.ir  .1  il.i>  i>r  two  throw  aw.iy  lh<' 
|,,i-M,  r  p.irt  111  ihrii-  tinir.  ^n  hiniliil  .iml  pn  i  imi-^,  iiinl  hi-^r  llif  nal  Dpportimitics  «)f 
\\\r  \\-.\i  .ihiii>-l  uhnlly.  rh>  \  -ii  t'l  till'  wroii-  |il..crs,  and  An  \\u-  wronjr  lhin,iL,fs, 
ami  Ml  uastr  iml  miK  lln  ir  limi  Iml  tin  ir  nnmiy.  It'  niH'  <  an  lir  iuTi!  bill  six  or 
ri-hi  Ihhiis,  \\r  -.luMilil  nut  think  nl  iisini;  a  hack  or  ran-iau;c.  lie  should  walk. 
And  an\  unman  wlm  1  ,mi  walk  two  niilrs  at  lionir  i  an  sic  \iau;.ira,  can  sec  all  tlicrc 
i-,  cssenii.il  iir  inipiiitani  In  ir,  wiihnnl  tinulilin'^  a  hai  k  driver  or  lirin:^-  troubled  '>y 
hini.  \\  wuinii)  umild  ImiI  luin;^  with  tin  ni  ,1  pair  ol  i  nnilortabli'  shoes,  alread)- 
soniewhat  worn,  and  iml  on  (lnlhiiiL^  lli.il  is  re.isonalil)  lii^ht  and  loose,  lor  the 
i\A\ .  tlii\  iimld  I  ,i'.il\  w.ilk  wherexcr  it  is  necessary  for  short  time  vi-.iiors  to  go,, 
n;i  isrM  1  r\i;K. 


I  he  |)ro|i(r  |)l,l(  e 
to  be  lirst  visited 
li\  all  iiUelliu;eiU 
persons  is  the 
|ioint  at  the  lop 
ot  the  .Xnu.'ric.m 
I'.ill,  on  the 
.American  or  \il- 
laL;e  side  of  the 
river.  This  place 
is  inc  liuled  in 
'I'rospect  I'.uk,' 
and  twenty  li\e 
(  ents  is  i  haryvil 
for  admission  at 
the  j^atc.  it  is 
iiuuh  to  be  re- 
14  retted  that 
there  is  now  no 


I  I.   -   1.:)    Ft;Hl;  iMAN 


an  inhabitant  of 
onr  country  can 
sei'. Niagara  I*"alls 
without  the  pay- 
ment of  a  fee. 
Hut  it  is  a  fact, 
anil  visiturs, 
must,  of  course, 
accept  e.xisting 
conditions    and 

j;*  conform  to  them. 

^''  The  evil  is  not 
one  for  which 
any  individual 
persons  are  to 
be  blamed.  It  is 
inseparable  from 
the  personal 
ownership  of  the 
valuable  land  ad- 
j  a  c  e  n  t  to  the 


point  from  which 

river  at  this  |)oint.  The  lanil  here  should  have  remained  permanently  the  property 
«)f  the  State  or  of  the  National  Government;  and  if  the  State  should  reacquire  the 
title  to  all  the  land  which  is  essential  to  the  scenery  of  Xiayara,  it  would  be  a  most 
wise  and  bt'iiitki'iit  measure,  and  would,  no  doubt,  tend  in  an  appreciable  degree  to 
national  advancement  in  civilization.  The  view  of  the  American  Fall  from  this 
point,  of  the  river  below,  and  of  Goat  Island  and  part  of  the  Horse-Shoe  Fall 
beyond  it,  is  naturally  the  first  in  an  ascending  series  which  includes  all  that  is  indi.s- 
l)ensable  or  even  very  important  to  the  visitor.  There  are  comfortable  seats  in  the 
park,  the  place  is  pleasant  enough  in  the  daytime,  and  the  view  all  that  can  be 


in 


clcsircil  from  ono  place.  iJnt  ii  is  iii-,i  Iktc  tliat  fodlish  waste  of  time  and  innncy  an 
tlu-  part  of  llic  sliorltiiiic  visitor  iisiiall)  hrs^ins.  I'lirrf  is  a  railway  ilown  an 
indincil  plane  llirf)ii,L;li  the  hank  to  thi'  ri\ir  lielow;  tliere  are  ^niiiles,  ami  ilressinj^r 
rooms,  and  water-|)roor  suits,  and  all  sorts  of  appropriate  arraiiL^-enienls  down  there 
for  ereepini^-  around,  as  a  moist,  iinple.isant  body,  in  a  hlindini,^  storm  of  sjjray  ahont 
the  foot  of  the  fall,  and  in  •Hie  Shadow  of  the.  Kock,"  where  thire  is  nothing  of 
interest  to  he  seen,  and  where,  if  there  were  imlellaMe  wonders,  nohody  could  see 
them.  Here  at  .\ia,L,^ara,  where  the  feis  are  hea\  iest,  the  "siMhls"  have  least  interest 
and  value. 

(loAT    I  SI. A  SI). 

!''veryhody  appears  to  he  specially  interested  in  liavint,'  yon  visit  these  |)lac(!s, 
where  it  is  all  feelini^f  and  no  seeini^;   hm  ilic  intellio(MU  short-time  visitor  will  say 


TERi<AP:;J  TO'.VER. 

(lHOM  untOI'AL  TLArC  NS't  V\-tm  THIWir  VlARr.  AtK..> 

no,  in  a  way  to  be  understood,  and,  leavinyf  the  Park  by  the  gate  nearest  the  river, 
will  walk  a  few  rods  up  the  stream  (by  the  very  (idge  of  tlu;  American  Rapids)  to 
Goat  Island  Bridge.  Here  the  fee  is  fifty  cents.  (If  you  are  to  remain  for  some 
days,  pay  one  dollar  here  and  seventy-fivf;  cents  at  Prospect  Park,  and  come  and  go 
at  your  pleasure  without  further  charge,)  At  the  island  end  of  the  bridge  take  the 
steps  up  the  bank  to  the  right.  A  b(>autifiilly  shaded  walk  through  the  forest  brings 
you  to  Luna  Island,  at  the  top  and  very  edge  of  the  American  Fall  on  that  side. 
When  ready  to  proceed  keep  to  the  right  from  the  top  of  tht;  stairway,  by  a  pleasant 
path  along  the  edge  of  the  island,  pausing  at  various  points  for  characteristic  views, 
but  not  pausing  for  the  descent  to  the  "Cave  of  the  Winds,"  where  there  are  more 
dressing-rooms,  more  rubber  suits,  more  guides,  more  soaking,  dashing  mists,  etc., 

101 


iJii  [i: 


'h- 


n(niirin.i,^  time  and  money  in  proportion.  Tlu;  walk  to  the  Great  Fall  requires  but  a 
few  moments.  Look  at  it  first  from  tlic  head  of  the  stairway,  then  from  Terrapin 
Rut;ks  (whi're  'I'lrrapin  'lower  formerl)-  stooil). 

■lilt:   KAi'ihs. 

■S'oii  nnist  nnt  think  ynu  have  seen  Nia.L^-ara  because  you  have  seen  the  Falls. 
The  Rapids  at  the  head  of  (ioat  Island,  and  the  varied  and  wonderful  scenery  of 
tlie  "'Ihrei!  Sisters"  at  tliat  point— all  litis  is  indispensable.  You  have  not  seen 
Niatjara  if  yon  have,  omitted  this  region.  It  is  but  a  few  minutes'  walk  again,  still 
keeping  to  the  riglit  along  the  idge  of  the;  islantl  after  you  leave  the  Great  Fall. 
Leaving  tlie  "Three  Sisters,"  go  directly  across  the  carriage  ro.id,  up  the  steps  and 
past  the  excursion  or  picnic  building  in  the  woods,  passing  to  the  right  of  it.     A 


broad  ]iath  through  fhe  woods  leads  to  the  end  of  the  bridge  by  which  you  crossed 
to  Cioat  Isl.md.  Having  paid  your  half-dollar  to  go  to  the  island,  every  point  and 
prospect  upon  it  and  around  it  is  free  to  you.     There  are  no  further  fees. 

And  now.  if  one  has  followed  the  course  here  indicated,  spending,  of  course, 
as  much  time  as  he  can  afford  at  the  different  points  of  interest,  and  especii'.l;  m 
tin;  solituiles  of  tin;  islands,  lu;  may  rightly  feel  he  has  seen  Niagara,  or  that  'le  has 
been  at  the  right  places  for  seeing  what  is  essential  to  the  charm  and  wonder  of  the 
place,  so  far  as  it  is  |)ossible  to  sec  and  feel  it  in  so  short  a  time.  There  have  been 
but  two  fees,  amounting  to  75  cts.  If  the  visitor  must  leave  now,  he  need  not  think 
with  much  regret  of  what  he  has  not  seen.  If  he  can  stay  longer,  the  next  thing  is 
to  cross  the  new  suspension  bridge  into  Canada.  The  fee  on  the  bridge  is  25  cts. 
each  way.     The  \iew  of  the  Falls  from  the  Canada  side  is  free. — jV.  }^.  Evcuing  Post. 

1012 


2  i 


8     2 


it 


io;i 


Jl    hJJST    LOOK 


J.     S.     hUCKINUHAM. 


h   ':''H\ 


G\  'I'lll';  tullowiiiL,^  innrniiiL:  we  went  to  takr  ;i  last  look  of  llu;   Falls  before 
(|iiilliii;,f  ihciii   |j(rha|)s  fon'\(;r,  and  \\v.  all  ai,n-cfcl  that  oim"  sensations  at  the 
^y     last  \  icw  were  as  |)(jwerfiil  as  at  tlie  lirst.      l'"or  my  own  part,  1  do  not  think  it 
J\      would   \>r  |)ossil)le  for  any  ninnher  of  repetitions  in  the  view  to  take  away,  or 
(      (Mn  aliaic,  the  first  impression   [jroduced  hy  the  richness,  splendor,  magnifi- 
eence,  and  suhlimiix  of  tiiis  _L,n-eat  and  jjlorioiis  object  of  nature.     To  the  many  who 
visit  this  s|)ot  wiiiiout  a  taste  for  the  <;rand  or  b(;aiitifiil — and  to  the  extent  of  their 
numbers  the  rej^ister  at  the  'ral)I(;   Kock  produces  painful  evidence — I  can  under- 
staiui    its    becoming;-   tiresome;    I)ut  to    those  whose    feelin<,'s    harmonize   with    the 
sul)lime  objects  that  are  here  combined  and  presented  to  the  wonderintr  view,  I  can- 
not compreiiciul  jiow  they  should  be  otherwise  than  enchanted  from  first  to  last,  and 
impressed  with  all  the  sensations  of  pleasure,  admiration,  triumph,  and  tlevotion  in 
succession. 

The  sunlii^hts  were  more  varied  to-day  than  we  had  observed  them  to  be  on 
an)'  precedins^  \  isit,  anil  this  is  a  jxjwerful  cause  of  variety  in  the  appearance  of  the 
1  alls.  There  were  passin_<,r  clouds  that  occasionally  obscured  the  sun,  when  deep 
shadows  overhunq'  the  waters.  Suddenly  the  bri>,dit  orb  would  burst  forth  from  its 
liidingplace,  and  in  an  instant  tlu:  whole  mass  was  lig^hted  up  with  luminous  and 
transparent  brilliancy.  (Occasional  showiTs  of  rain  also  fell,  and  the  rainbows  of 
the  s|)ray  si'emed  to  look  more  than  usually  vivid  and  glowing.  The  smooth  deep 
current  between  the  turbulent  rajjids  of  the  upper  strait  and  the  immediate  edge  of 
tile  cataract  tlowed  on  lik(!  a  stream  of  molten  glass,  so  clear,  so  lucid,  and  yet  so 
unwrinkled  in  its  surface,  that  when  it  curved  over  the  brink  of  the  precipice,  the  mass 
poured  downward  was  like  a  liciuid  emerald  of  the  brightest  and  most  transparent 
green.  As  this  was  varied  with  the  sparkling  lights  of  the  broken  waters,  it  resem- 
bled those  beautiful  glimpses  which  the  mariner  sometimes  catches  of  the  mountain 
wave  at  sea,  when  the  lustre  of  the  setting  sun  is  seen  through  its  upper  edge  of 
the  brightest  green,  and  a  curling  wave  of  the  whitest  foam  crowns  its  towering  and 
majestic  crest.  The  whole  seemed  to  realize  the  splendid  imagery  of  Milton,  in  his 
excjuisite  description  of  the 

"Tliroiio  of  royal  state,  wliieli  far 
Outslioni'  Uio  woallli  of  Ormws  or  of  Iiul, 
Or  wlicri'  Die  t,'ort!('(ius  East,  with  richi'st  liand, 
Sliowcrs  on  hor  kind's  liarliario  pearls  and  Kold." 

I  have  seen  no  other  object  in  nature,  in  all  my  various  wanderings,  equal  this 
in  magnificence  and  sublimity.  The  impression  of  its  beauty  and  grandeur  is  so 
deeply  imprinted  on  my  heart  and  mind,  that  I  am  sure  I  shall  carry  it  with  me  to 
the  gra\e,  if  reason  and  memory  are  spared  to  me  till  then. 

104 


THE   I^pPIDS   HNI>  GOI^GE. 


REDHtlE     HGUGHTUN. 


THE    UPPKH    IUn*lI>». 


s 


TILI,,  with  tlic  wiindcr  nf  Imyl I.   I  follnw  tin'  iwc  i<!  tli.'  UnpMs, 

Siivris  lliat  (liiiici.,  .itkI  alUiiv  to  ili'slnictimi,— now  Ini-kiiif,'  in  slmilows, 
SkirtitlK  tlio  li'vi'l  stillni'ss  of  pool.s  im>\  Uic  l.i-twhoroiis  sliallows, 
SniiliiiK  ami  iliiiipli'-iiioiitlioii.  coiiiiettinn.— now  iiiodi'st,  now  lorwanl; 

Tciidcily  .Imiitin',',  iin.l  such  IIm'  llinill  (.1'  llif  w.'ird  iiiciiiiliHioM. 
'I'liirsl   it,  iiwidii's  in  cai-li  lislcni'i''s  smil,  a  fovci-isli  lonj,'in^r, 
'I'hnuKlds  all-alisoi-lH'nt,  :i  loi-rncid  lliat  stiiiKs  and  rviT  ini'P'iisc^. 
Bnniinf,'  ambition  to  push  l)ar.'-lpivast  (o  tliy  poriloiis  l.osoin. 

Tims,  in  sonn'  ini.lniKlit  oljscni'o,  brnt  down  by  tlic  'itonn  of  t.'niptation 
(So  liatli  till'  wiiiil,  in  tlii'  IjcccIkmi  wood,  I'onlidi'd  tlic  story), 
I'ini'tri'cs,  llniisting  llu'ir  way  and  trampling  down  oni'  anollici-, 
Cnrions,  lean  and  listen,  replying  in  sobs  ami  in  winspers: 

Till  ol'  till'  socrol   possessed,  wliieli  brings  sure  blij,'lit  to  tlie  lii'iirer, 
iSo  liatli  tlie  wind,  in  the  bocdien  wood,  coiilidod  tlie  storyi. 
KalteriiiK.  they  sla^'ger  brinkward,— clutch  at  the  roots  ol'  the  grasses. 
Cry,- a  latiful  cry  of  roniorse,— and  plunge  down  in  the  darkness. 

Art  lliou  nll-inereiloss  then,— a  fleml,  ever  fierce  for  new  victims? 
Was  then  the  red-man  right  (as  yet  it  livetli  in  li'gend). 
That,  ere  each  twelvemonth  circles,  still  to  thy  shrini"  is  allotted 
Hlood  of  one  human  lii'arl,  as  sacrilice  due  ami  demamled? 

Butterllies  have  I  foUow.'d,  that  leaving  tlie  red-top  and  clover. 
Thinking  a  wind-harp  thy  voice,  thy  froth  tln^  fresh  wliitencss  of  daisies. 
Ventured  too  close,  grow  giddy,  and  catching  cold  drops  on  tlieir  pinions 
Balanced  —  but  vainly,— and  falling,  their  scarlet  was  lilotted  forcN  ;•. 


•:>-^iri 


THE    GOI^GE. 


kEATH  the  abvss  lies  tlie  Valley,  a  valley  of  darkness,— a  hades. 

Where  the  spent  stream,  as  it  strives,  socks  only  an  end  to  its  anguish; 
Who  shall  its  fastnesses  fatlioin,  or  toll  what  wrecks  tliey  envelop? 
Here  ■neath  the  tid.-s  of  time,  life's  remnants  await  resurroction. 

Deep  is  the  way,  and  weary  the  way,  while  lofty  above  it 
Frowns,  upon  either  hand,  a  clilT  sheer-shouldered  or  beetling, 
Holding  ill  durance  forever  the  course  of  the  .will  broken  exile. 
Blighting  all  hope  of  return,  should  it  pant  tor  the  llowering  pastm-es. 

But  from  llie  brinks  loan  down  a  few  slender  birches  and  cedars. 

Dazed  by  the  depth  and  the  gloom  of  the  .•hannels  resounding  beneath  them; 

Hero  campanulas,  too,  which  lurk  wherever  is  danger. 

Stoop  witli  a  smile  of  hope,  rell(«ctiiig  the  blue  of  the  heavens. 

Fleeter  still  flies  the  Hood,  up-hoa|iing  its  scum  at  the  centre. 
Dragging  tlie  tides  from  the  shores  to  leave  them  a  haiid-breadth  the  lower; 
While,  like  a  serpent  of  yellow,  the  spume  crooks  do>vn  to  the  Whirliiool, 
Trails  with  a  zigzagging  motion  down  to  the  hideous  Whirlpool. 

1U3 


,     :  i 


a; 


MflMTOU   lipCK  JIM)  THE  WHII^LkPOOIi. 


n,    H.    A.    lilll.KI.EY, 


I        i 


Slill  (liiwii  lliv  liiiiikH.  ()  liiv.'i-  ipf  till'  Fall! 

I   MniiM  ill  (Ircaiii- liki'  i'ihUisv  I'lilhrulli'il: 

I  Ih-i'i|  Mil  ilaiiK'T.  yii'l'l  til  Ii'i  ii'imlsi', 

Nil  hiinl-liip  dnnil,  uinl  fi'i'l  no  Hi'iiiiiit'ss, 

Sii  rii|iliimiis  my  IIiiiiikIiI-;,  sn  slrniiK  tin'  spi'U 

Of  lliy  wiM  liriiiily  HIT  my  scuil.  until 

Olilivioiis  iif  my  iiwii  iili'iitily, 

I  si'i'iii  a  part  iif  Natiiii''s  cdiliri", 

Hiiilt  iiiuiiil  tlii'si'  laliiiriiiK  IIhimIs  to  srirrri  tlirir  toil, 

lli'iii  stjiiidiiit,'  (iwi'il  amid  lii'i-  (■■■iilral  lialls. 

AH  thiw  ail'  thy  liiTiditiu-y  liomrs, 
'I'liiit  iiii'il  till'  vii'w  as  tliiwo  of  fi'udal  lands, 
Wlioit"  kind's  and  last.lcs  unaid  tin'  trnaiit-soil. 
Around    wlmsc   walls    tho  di>i'p-iluK  moat  i'XIi'imIs, 
K'rii  as  tl.v  I'liaiini'ls  stri'trli  lii'twcrn  tlii'ir  liaiiks. 


Wliat  towi'iiiL,'  form  i'I-itIs  its  liiiuri'  Iuti', 
To  I'liock  till'  foolsti'ps  of  iiii|uirin(;  man, 
Ah  If  it   wi'ro  a  spiitry  at  his  p<ist. 
To  Kiiard  Willi  faillifiilni'ss  IIh'  iiarmw  pass? 
It  Is  till'  Uo.-k  of  Manllou,  tin'  riiinarlc 
On  which  till'  Klooniy  Spirit  of  tin'  I'all, 
Sits  liroodin;;  n'or  tlio  tidi'  Ih'Iow,  that   shows 
His  fearful  frowns  ri'llrclcd  in  its  wavi', 
Or  fi'i'ls  till"  movi'inrnls  of  Ids  Imsy  ham) 
Si'arrhiiw  its  di'pllis  mid  torturing  its  ronrsi". 
Till  its  full  I'lirri'iits  ri'cl  in  I'onsi'ioiis  pain! 

Tlow  hif,'li  till'  Water-Odd  his  altar  rears 

With  jaW'il  sntninits  from  a  liiinid  liase! 

How  jfrei'ii  the  moss  that  derks  its  time-worn  erown, 

Like  youthful  forma  that  eliister  round  old  atre! 

I'rom  yonder  olilT,  imperidin>r  o'er  the  stream 

With  shadowy  friiiKes  n!  the  evergreen. 

This  massive  pile,  like  an  inverted  cone. 

Seems  hurled  in  oUier  years  witli  giant  hand, 

Tpon  tlie  kindreil  masses  dashed  lielowl 

Here  on  thy  height,  tlion  offspring  of  the  elilTI 

Do  I  usurp  the  ttirone  of  Maiiitou, 

Yet   tremnloiisly  lieiid  to  gai'.e  intent. 


I'pon  tir  imprisoned  waters,  HtruggUng  hard 
Within  their  rock-bound  urea  for  oseapo, 
Like  chafing  lions  caged  liy  iron  bars. 
And  hisliing,  in  ungovernable  rage, 
'I'lieir  heated  sides  with  iovc  for  liherty: 

On  tlirough  the  straitened  gorge  tlioy  wildly  rush, 

And  maddened  with  repulse  return  again, 

l!ut  to  renew  their  strength  for  victory, 

And  make  fresh  onsets  to  conclude  the  siege! 

Anon  they  lling  their  foaming  arras  on  high. 

And  hurl  their  jiivi'lin  tides  to  win  the  pass; 

Again  tliey  sound  retreat  in  colunms  close. 

Shrinking  away,  as  if  in  fear,  but  yet 

Returning  still  invincible,  with  new 

Assailing  bands  that  to  their  rescue  rush; 

They  speed  like  worried  steeds  that  scour  the  plain. 

Champing  their  bits  and  foaming  at  the  mouth. 

Ho!  now  they  triumph  with  terrllle  shout, 

And  break  each  barrier  that  obstructs  their  march. 

Leaping  from  rock  to  rock,  from  bank  to  bank. 

And  dashing  up  against  the  tall  crag's  base. 

As  if  to  scale  its  unasccnded  walls. 

The  channel's  bed  seems  now  to  ope  below 
And  leave  a  thousand  outlets  for  its  tides; 
For  round  and  round,  the  ra|iid  vortices, 
Like  the  gyrations  swift  of  eagle-wings, 
Whirl  in  the  wild  delirium  of  their  joy. 
As  if  into.xicate  with  bright  .success. 
Bearing  away  from  human  view  below. 
For  long  iinreekoned  hours,  the  shattered  spoils, 
Ilurh'd  into  their  embrace  from  yonder  Hood. 

Now,  summoned  in  united  ranks  of  strength. 
The  waters  meet  and  form  the  wiiirlpool's  shape. 
That  seems  its  own  destroyer,  turning  round 
T'  ingulf  its  life,  in  madness  unrestrained. 
And  liien  its  own  creator,  from  its  maw 
Ejected,  till  away  it  shoots  in  light, 
A  wild  artillery  of  floods,  that  lose 
Their  name  and  likeness  in  Ontjirio's  wave! 


lOR 


THE   MpiD   OF   THE   MIST. 


Hur  Ha.:arriiKi  .  Trip  Tlirrmiili  tlin  Wlilrlpnal  Raplda, 


NF.  OF  THE  most  dar- 
ing fuats  ever  accom- 
plished successfully  by 
man  was  that  of  the 
navigation  of  die  Whirl- 
pool Rai)ids,  thence 
through  the  dreadful 
whirlpool  to  Lake  On- 
tario, with  the  little 
steamer  "Maid  of  the 
Mist."  Mr.  Geo.  W. 
Holley,  himself  an  old 
resident  of  Niagara 
F'alls,  in  his  late  work 
on  Niagara  I'alls,  gives 
a  very  interesting  ac- 
count of  the  litUe  boat, 
her  pilot  and  her  trip, 
rendered  more  valu- 
able through  die  personal  acquaintance  of  thi'  author  with  the;  actors  in  die  thril- 
ling undertaking.  He  says:  "In  die  year  1S46,  a  small  steamer  was  built  in  the 
eddy  just  above  the  Railway  Suspension  Hridgt;,  to  run  u\)  to  the  F'alls.  She  was 
very  appropriately  named  'The  Maid  of  the  Mist.'  Her  engine  was  rather  weak, 
but  she  safely  accomplished  the  trip.  As,  however,  she  took  passengers  aboard 
only  from  die  Canadian  side,  she  could  pay  little  more  dian  expenses.  In  1854  a 
larger,  better  boat,  with  a  more  powerful  engine,  the  new  '  Maid  of  the  Mist,'  was 
jHit  on  the  route,  and  as  she  took  passengers  from  both  sides  of  the  ri\er,  many 
thousands  of  persons  made  the  exciting  and  impressive  voyage  up  to  tlic;  F'alls, 
The  admiration  which  the  visitor  felt  as  he  passed  quietly  along  near  the  American 
I'all  was  changed  into  awe  when  he  began  to  feel  the  mighty  pulse;  of  tin;  great 
deep  just  below  tlu!  tower,  then  swung  round  into  the  white  foam  directly  in  front 
of  die  Horse-Shoe,  and  saw  the  sky  of  waters  falling  toward  him.  And  he  seemed 
to  be  lifted  on  wings  as  he  sailed  swiftly  down  on  the  rushing  stream  through  a 
baiitism  of  spray.  To  many  persons  there  was  a  fascination  about  it  that  induced 
them  to  make  the  trip  every  time  they  had  an  opportunity  to  do  so.      Owing  to 

107 


I*i 


'  I?     f 
4    ' 


;i»;r 


it  •  '*! 


hi. 


\}\„i]' 


1 


l|;i 


ii  11; 


! 


li 


?.. 


ni 


sdinr  diiiiiL;''  in  lur  appoinlinriils  which  confincil  Ium-  lo  the  Canadian  shore  for  the 
i((  <|)liiiii  of  jiassiiiL^irs.  shi'  Ixcainc  unprolitahlc.  Her  owner,  liavin",'  decided  to 
Icavi'  the  mii^Oilinrhddd,  wished  to  sell  Iicr  as  sh('  hiy  at  her  dock.  This  he  could 
not  <l(i.  lint  ill-  rccri\(il  an  ollrr  of  sonu'tiiin,!,'  more,  than  hah"  of  her  cost,  if  ho 
wiiiiid  d<li\ir  h(  r  at  Nia-ara,  opposite  ihi;  fort.  This  he  ilccidcd  to  do.  after  con- 
suh.ilii)n  wiili  Kdiiiiisoii,  wild  iiad  acted  as  her  captain  and  pilot  on  her  trips  bc.-low 
the  I"al!s.  Mr.  Kcjhinsoii  agreed  to  act  a--  jiilot  for  the  fearful  voyay:e,  and  the  engi- 
neer, Mr.  Jones,  (onseiited  to  L^o  wiiii  him.  A  couray-^ous  machinist,  Mr.  Mclntyre, 
\(ihmte(  red  to  sh.ne  the  risk  witli  them.  They  ])Ut  her  in  complete  trim,  removing 
Iroin  deck  and  hnid  all  suiieriluous  articles.  Notice  was  given  of  the  time  for 
starting,  and  a  large  numlier  of  people  «issembled  to  see  the  fearful  plunge,  no  one 
expecting  to  see  ilie  crew  again  alive  after  they  should  li-ave  the  dock,  just  above 
the  Kailway  .Sus|)ensioii  Bridge.  Twenty  rods  bi-low,  the  water  plunges  sharply 
down  into  tin;  head  of  the  crooked,  tumultuous  rapid,  reaching  from  the  bridge  to 
tile  \Vliirli)ool.  .At  the  Whirlpool,  the  danger  of  being  drawn  under  was  most  to 
be  ap|ireheiuletl:  ill  the  rapids,  of  being  turned  over  or  knocked  to  pi(;ces.  From 
tile  Wliirlpool  to  Lewiston  is  one  wild,  turbulent  rush  ami  wh-  1  of  water,  without  a 
s(|iiare  foot  of  smooth  surface  in  the  whole  distance. 

••  .Abwut  three  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  of  June  15,  1S61,  the  engineer  took  his 
place  in  the  hold,  and,  knowing  that  their  flitting  would  be  short  at  the  best,  and 
might  be  only  tlie  prefice  to  swift  destruction,  set  his  steam  valve  at  the  proper 
gauge,  and  await<'d — not  without  anxiety — the  tinkling  signal  that  should  start  them 
on  their  living  voyage.  Mclnt)re  Joined  Robinson  at  the  wheel  on  the  upper  deck. 
Self-possesseil,  ami  with  the  calmness  which  results  from  undoubting  courage  and 
conlidence,  yet  with  the  humility  which  recognizes  all  possibilities,  with  downcast 
eyes  ami  fu'in  hamls,  l\.ol)inson  took  his  place  at  the  wheel  and  pulled  the  starting 
bell.  W'idi  a  shriek  from  her  whistle  and  a  white  puff  from  her  escape  pipe,  the 
boat  ran  up  tin;  eddy  a  short  ilistance,  then  swung  round  to  the  right,  cleared  the 
smooth  water,  and  shot  like  an  arrow  into  the  rapid  under  the  bridge.  Robinson 
intended  to  t.ike  the  inside  curvi;  of  the  rapid,  but  a  fierce  cross-current  carried  him 
to  the  outer-curve,  and  w  hen  a  third  of  the  way  down  it  a  jet  of  water  struck  against 
her  rutlder,  a  column  dashed  u|)  under  her  starboard  side,  heeled  her  over,  carried 
away  her  smoke-stack,  started  her  overhang  on  that  side,  threw  Robinson  flat  on 
his  back,  and  thrust  Mclntyre  against  her  starboard  wheel-house  with  such  force  as 
to  break  it  through.  I-^very  eye  was  fixed,  every  tongue  was  silent,  and  every 
looker-on  breathed  freer  as  she  emerged  from  the  fearful  baptism,  shook  her 
wounded  sides,  slid  into  the  Whirlpool,  and  for  a  moment  rode  again  on  an  even 
keel.  Robinson  rose  at  once,  seized  the  helm,  and  set  her  to  the  right  of  the  large 
pot  in  the  pool,  then  turned  her  directly  through  the  neck  of  it.  Thence,  after 
ri'ceiving  another  drenching  from  its  combing  waves,  she  dashed  on  without  further 
accident,  to  the  cjuiet  bosom  of  the;  river  below  Lewiston.  Thus  was  accomplished 
om;  ot   the  most  remarkable  and  perilous  voyages  ever  made  by  men. 

108 


f'l 


1*1' 


100 


T}i«hE  i^o«;k 


i-^,1 


VI 


*-s< 


l\()('\I)  'lalilc   kiK  k  cliislcr  some  of  the  plcasaiUcst  and   most  iiiii)rcs- 

si\i'  incinorics  of  the  dnal  i'alls.     A  iirojciliiii^  lal)l(:-lik(;  iL'tl^i!  of  rork, 

siliiatr  at  the  aiii^lt:  iorincd  I))  the  1  lorsci-Shot;   I'"all  with  the  Canadian 

'    liank,  and   in   llic  s.nnc   plane  willi  the  rrcst  of  the  cataract,  it  has  always  Ijccn  a 

(    f,i\()iitc  resort  for  those  wliose  spirit  dehi^lits  in  close  and  ileep  comnuniion  with 

diis  marvel   of  Nature.      "Ih    who  ailmires   Nature  in  her  stern  and   maL^qiificent 

arr,i\.   should  stand   upon   the    iahle   Rock,"  sa\s   Murray.       "There   ' I'lcscntioiiin 

Ci'ii^/'iiiil  Pill))/,'     there  the  trementlous  roar  will  stun  his  ear — the  minj^ieil  masses 

<ir  w.Uers  .md   of  foam   will    bewilder  his  t;ye  —  his  mind  will    he  overwhelmed   l)y 

((inlenilinLj   fe(  linu;s  of  elevati(jn  and  -lepression — and,  uidess  he  hv.  coUler  than  llu! 

V(  ry  io(  k  on  which  he  stands,  tin.'  ihouj^hts  that  press  upon  his  br.iin,  will  he  hi^h, 

jiure,  and  enthusiastic,  and  his  hot  brow  will  welcome  the  cool,  light  spra)'  that  is 

ever  falling  around  that  holy  s))()l." 

( )riL;in,ill)-  an  inunense  table  of  rock  exteniling  far  beyond  and  at  right  angles 
with  the  wat(  IS  of  the  Horse-Shoc;  its  form  and  dimensions  have  bt'en  niatc'rially 
changed  bj'  fre(|uent  and  vi(jlent  disruptions.  In  iSi8  a  mass  broke  off  in  its 
innnediate  |)ro.\imit)-,  one  hundred  and  sixty  feet  in  length  by  thirty  to  forty  feet  in 
width.  In  the  latter  part  of  iSjS  ami  bi'ginning  of  1829,  the  fall  of  several  masses 
occurred,  lea\  ing  the  table-shapid  ledge  without  support  on  the  north  and  south 
sides.  At  mid-day  on  llu;  26th  of  June,  1850,  a  terrible  ncMse,  which  shook  the 
earth,  startletl  tlu;  inhabitants  for  miles  around  the  Falls.  Table  Rock  remained 
only  as  a  memory  of  thi;  past — a  narrow  bench  along  the  bank.  The  huge  mass 
which  fell  was  over  two  hundred  feet  long,  sixty  fec;t  wide,  and  one  hundred  feet 
deep  where  it  separated  from  the  bank.  A  solitary  stableman,  washing  an  omnibus 
on  the  rock,  escaped  widi  his  life,  the  vehicle,  of  which  no  subsequent  traces  could 
be  sein  or  found,  falling  into  the  abyss. 

The  general  view  is  more  extensive  and  effective  at  this  point  than  anj'  others, 
embracing,  in  addition  to  the  I'alls,  the  Canadian  Rapids  above,  with  sharp,  white- 
crested  waxes,  coming  in  rush  and  tumble  to  the  calm  edge  of  the  Fall  to  be  engulfed 
in  an  instant  amid  the  foaming  waters  in  the  chasm  below.  "The  ocean  stretching 
beyond  n-ach  of  vision,  or  swooping  the  sternest  lee-shore,  is  a  feebler  emblem  of 
power  than  is  the  inevitable  and  despairing  rush  with  which  these  tortured  waters 
plunge  down.     The  Rapids  are  a  fit  portal  for  Niagara." 

The  sight  of  the  gulf  below  is  one  that  can  never  be  forgotten.  The  water 
breaks  into  spra)-  at  the  very  top,  and  sends  up  a  steam  from  the  inexplorable  abyss, 
which  shrouds  all  below  in  most  terrific  obscurity.  A  portion  of  the  vapor  rises 
between  the  descending  water  and  the  rock,  and  comes  whirling  out  in  the  most 

110 


'violent  aj^ilation;  ami  llic  d((|)  hollow  soiiiicl  of  tin-  Cataract,  nvcrlxratiiiLj  from  tin- 
rocky  caverns,  completes  the  elements  of  suhlimity  with  which  the  scent;  is  charged. 
Uelow  the  bank  lie-s  a  rii,i(L,'f:tl  path  leadinjL;  to  "Termination  Rock,"  iiiuler  llie 
western  end  of  the  Horse-Shoe.  It  is  reached  by  means  of  an  in,:;' nioiisly  con- 
structed spiral  staircase,  seciinly  fastened  to  the  rocky  bank.     Of  the  view  around 

j.ij^Lji'il  rocks,  is 
a  boiiini;  whirl- 
|)ool,  where  the 
water  writhes 


the  base  of  the 
stairs,  u  writer 
in  Harpers' 
Magazine  saiil : 
"You  find  your- 
self below  the 
overhanging 
mass  of  Table 
Rock.  You  are 
close  at  t  h  (.' 
edge  of  the  fall- 
ing water,  which 
descends  in  a 
mass  apparent- 
ly as  solid  as 
though  carved 
from  marble. 
You  now  begin 
to  comprehend 
the  height  of 
the  Fall.  It 
makes  you  diz- 
zy to  look  up 
to  the  upper 
edge  of  the 
rushing  column 
— y  o  u  stand  '\ 

just  midway  between  the  top  and 
the  bottom.  Above  you  hangs  the 
imminent  mass  of  Table  Rock; 
below,  far  down  by  the  wet  and 
the  mind.  The  impressivcncss  of  the  scene  behind  the  immense  sheet  of  the 
principal  Cataract,  will  fully  repay  for  the  peril  and  discomfort  attending  upon  a  visit 
to  it.  The  pendant  roof  of  rock  above,  the  arching  waters,  and  the  abyss  of  foam 
below,  are  objects  that  awaken  emotions  the  sublimity  of  which  is  sometimes  oppres- 
sive, and  yet  always  pleasingly  awful. 

Ill 


T   ? 


'..n  ■■ 


Tilt    fALI,  OF   TAitl.K    K^'CK 


and  eddies  as 
though  fren/ied 
wilii  its  fearful 
leap.  Round 
and  round  it 
goes  in  solenui 
gyrations,  blar- 
ing with  it  what- 
ever II  oa  ting 
object  may  have 
been  plunged 
into  its  vorte.x." 
The  view  of 
the  Falls  from 
diis  point  is  un- 
surpassed, as  it 
p  r  e  s  t;  n  t  s  a 
scene  of  Niag- 
ara to  the  view 
at  one  instant 
of  time,  com- 
pletely fdling 
die  field  of  vis- 
ion, and  giving 
the  full  im[)ress 
of  its  grandeur 
and  beauty  to 


"I 


Ml 


fi't. 


['i: 


w 


■\i, 


m 


TIIK    NKW    SI  SPKNHIOX    HI^IDGK. 

Ills  I  l.l'.(i.\N  I  siiiK  tiiir  w.i-^  (()m|)lili(|  in  iSOo,  and  is  ioialcd  some 
;,(.()  \,ii(ls  litliiw  ill.  .\ni(iii.iii  I  ,ilU.  Il  is  iJ'iS  jcii  in  lrn,n;lh,  and  calcu- 
lalcd  (inl\  till-  a  ( ani,iL;f  \v,i\  and  lnoi  walk.  i'lic  liciMhi  ot  llic  hriilL;!-  ahuvc 
llii-  river  is  |i;i)  Icci  and  lln'  luwcrs  al  cu  h  ind  arc  oxer  kxj  l<ii  iii,i,di.  'I  licsc  arc 
IMovidrd  \\\\\\  siiiialilc  stairways  and  rlcvalors  In  rracli  llui  lop,  from  which  iinii 
\irws  ul  till'  seiner)  i  ,in  1)1'  had.  Vlv  liriilLjr  is  iindisturhrd  hy  ordinary  winds; 
JMii  winds  liiat  .irc  lull  nintlr  inic/cs  on  the  land,  strike  llii'  l)rid,L,^(;  with  ihe  force  of 
,1  lirisk  ,L;ale,  and  a  u;.ile  dw  land  lie.onies  a  slorin  on  the  w.iler.  The  winds  press 
tliroii-h  the  norj^e  as  ihrouu;!!  a  liinnel.  i'.xcn  in  calm  weather,  puffs  of  wind  conu: 
up  Iron:  the  lalls,  surcharL^fd  with  spra}',  ,uid  then,  there  ma)-  he  seen,  in  sunshine, 
the  m  w  pheniiineDon  of  a  rainliow,  hoth  over  and  under  the  platlorin,  destrii)ins^ 
a  Kimplete  circle  round  idxmt  the  hritli^c. 

( )ne  of  .\meri(a's  foremost  writers,  whost;  works  have  probalily  ministered  a 
pure  and  wholesome  deh'uhl  to  a  Ljrealer  numher  of  readers  than  those  ol  any 
other  .American  author,  1  lowells,  describes,  in  his  history  of  a  ctTtain  weddinij 
ioiniie)-  to  Niai^aiM  balls,  the  superb  \iew  from  this  brids^'e.  "The  last  hues  of 
simsei  linu;cred  in  the  mists  that  sprung;  from  the  bast;  of  th(;  b'alls  with  a  mournful, 
ireimilous  Ljratc,  .md  a  movement  weird  as  the  pl.i)  of  th(;  North(;rn  Lij,dits.  They 
w,re  touched  with  the  must  delicate  purples  and  crimsons,  that  darkened  to  deep 
red,  and  then  fadeil  from  them  at  a  second  look,  and  they  llew  upward,  swiftly 
upward,  like  troops  of  pale,  transparent  L^hosts;  while  a  jx'rfectl)'  clc;ar  radiance, 
better  dian  .ui)-  other  for  local  color,  ilwelt  upon  the  scene,  bar  under  the  briilge 
the  river  smoothly  r.ui,  the  undercm-rents  forevt'r  unfolding,'  themselves  upon  the  sur- 
f.Hc  with  a  v.ist  rosilike  evolution,  edm'd  ,dl  round  with  faint  lines  of  white,  where 
the  air  that  filled  the  water  freed  itself  in  foam.  What  hail  I)(;en  clear  gwrn  on 
the  fice  of  the  cataract  was  here  mori:  like  rich  vei\l  anli(|ue,  ami  had  a  look  of 
lirmiiess  almost  like  that  of  the  stone  itself.  So  it  showed  beneath  the  bridi^^e, 
.iiul  down  the  river  till  the  curviiiL,^  shores  hid  it.  These,  sijrin^ins^f  abruptly  from 
the  water's  i)rink,  and  sha^i^ed  with  pine  and  cedar,  displayed  the  tender  verdure 
(if  i^rass  and  bushes  interminLjled  with  the  dark  evert^reens  that  climb  from  ledge 
to  led^'e,  till  they  point  their  spear)-  tops  above  the  crest  of  the  !)hiffs.  In  front, 
where  tumbli'd  rocks  and  expanses  of  naked  clay  varied  the  gloomier  and  gayer 
L;reen,  sprung  thosi:  spectral  mists;  and  through  them  loomed  out,  in  its  manifold 
majesty,  Niagara,  with  the  seemingly  immovable,  white  (iothic  screen  of  the  Amer- 
ican l'"all,  anil  the  green  massive  curve  of  the  Horsi;-Shoe,  solid  and  simple  and 
calm  as  an  Egyptian  wall;  while  behind  this,  with  their  white  and  black  e.xpanses 
broken  by  dark-foliaged  little  isles,  the  steep  Canadian  rapids  billowed  down 
between  their  heavily  wooded  shores." 

113 


113 


mi 


1  i 

il 

» 

:'i 

1  ' 

3 

f 

4 

f 

.ill 

\  9i 

1 

" '  ^•*. 

N,     I'.    WM.t.lS, 


ii;; 


m 


••v. 


Till'.  KAI'IMS  .iri'  C.ir  fnim  luinj^r  the  least  iiucrcsiiiii,'  rcaiiirc  of  Niaj^'ara. 
'Ilirrc  is  .1  \ii>lrii(i'  ,111(1  ,1  |i()U(r  in  llicir  foamini,''  i  .incr,  which  is  seen  in  no 
plirniimriiiMi  mI' ihi  s.iiiK  (lass.  Staiiitin,i4  <iii  the  l)riil,L;c  whidi  connects  (loat  Island 
uith  the  M.iiii,  and  jodkiii-  up  lowards  Lake  I'.ric,  llic  i(a|iiiii^  crests  of  the  rapids 
Idnii  die  hori/on,  and  il  s.cins  like  a  iiatlh  ■charnf  of  icmpcsiiious  waves,  animated 
and  intnriatcd  ai^ainst  ihisk\. 

NO  one  uiio  li.is  not  seen  this  s|)ecta(le  ofturhnient  i^randeur  can  conceive  with 
wii.it  lord'  tlie  swih  and  ovirwhilniin.L;  waters  are  lluii.i;  iipwarils.  'I'he  rocks,  whose 
soarini^  points  show  aliove  the  surliuc  si  cm  tormented  with  some  supernatural 
ai^dii),  and  tliii^  otV  the  wild  and  liiirried  watcM's,  as  it'  with  the  force  of  a  j^dant's 
arm.  N'eanr  the  p!imL;e  of  tlie  lali,  tlie  Ka|)ids  become  still  more  ajfjtated;  and  it 
is  .dmost  im|)ossil)le  for  the  spect.itor  to  rid  himself  of  the  idea,  that  they  are-  con- 
s(  ions  of  the  abyss  to  wliii  h  they  are  hnrrxiiii^.  and  slrii}4},de  back  in  the  very 
extremity  of  horror. 

This  propensit)  to  invest  Niai^ara  with  a  soul  and  human  feelinj^'s  is  a  common 
effect  u|)on  the  minds  of  visitors,  in  ever\'  part  of  its  wonderful  |)henomena.  The 
torture  of  the  Rapids,  the  ( liiii^ini:;  curxcs  with  which  they  embrace  the  small  rocky 
islands  that  live  amid  the  suri;e,  th('  sudden  calmness  at  the  brow  of  the  cataract,  and 
tile  infirnal  writhe  and  whiti-ness  with  which  thi'y  reappear,  powerless  from  the 
depths  of  the  al)yss,  all  seem,  to  the  excited  imagination  of  the  jjazer,  like  the  natural 
effects  of  iinpendins^  ruin,  desperati:  resolution,  and  fearful  agony,  on  the  minds  and 
frames  of  mortals. 

During  the  Canadian  war  of  \S\^,  General  Putnam,  the  famous  partisan  soldier, 
made  die  first  descent  upon  Cioat  Island.  A  wager  had  been  laid,  that  no  man  in 
the  army  would  dare  to  cross  the  Rapids  from  the  American  side;  and  with  the 
personal  daring  for  whicii  he  was  remarkable,  above  all  the  men  of  that  trying 
period,  he  undertook  the  feat.  Selecting  the  four  stoutest  and  most  resolute  men  in 
his  corps.  In;  embarked  in  a  balteau  just  above  the  island,  and  with  a  rope  attached  to 
tile  ringd)olt,  which  was  held  by  as  many  muscular  fellows  on  the  shore,  he  .suc- 
cei^ded  l)y  desperate  rowing  in  riaching  his  mark.  He  most  easily  towed  back,  and 
the  feat  has  since  been  rendered  unnecessary  by  the  construction  of  the  bridge  from 
the  main  land  to  Goat  Island. 


114 


FI^OM   CITV   TO   (.|ITJIHJU:T. 


I.AIIY   inrri'ir;    hahiiy, 

R(  )M  'roroiito  \vc  si(Min  iicruss  tin  like  to  (Ik  \ill,iL^c  ol'  Ni,iL;.iiM, 
wluTc  a  Ir.iin   is  w.iiiiii'^  to  ciirv   us  mi  In  llic  tails  alioul  liall'  .111 
hour  fiirllicr  on.      \\V    all   watili    iVdiii   the   uindows,  ra^;!  |-  i.. 
catch  our  first  glimpse  of  ilic   worM's  L;rrai   wiiiidri-.     \\'c  tnl 
a  iirr\()us  ansiriy   to  stand   in   its   in.iirstii     iircsciKc.      I   (|ii()lf 
from  my  coini)anion's  note  l)()ok  on  the  spot.    "  Tliirc  was  a  lnr.ik 
in  the  wood,  a  llash  of  white,  a  cloud  of  spra)'  tossed  IumIi  ,il,(i\e 
till-  tree  tops;    then   the  il.u'k    woods  closed  ai^aiii.     '1  hat 
'  \        i,dimpse,  llashini^'  upon  us  and  passinj,'  Ijclore  we  could  fully 
realize  that  the  threat  tuinlilini^r  mass  was  indeed   \i,ii,Mra, 
can  hardly  l)e  called  our  first   view  of  it.     .     .     .      It  was 
a  nioonli'ss  niL^ht,  and  in  the  dusk  we  could  onl\'  olis(  iinl) 
trace  the  vast  wij^nie  outline  of  the  two  fills,  divided  hy  tlu'  Murred 
mass  of  shapeless  shadows  whii  h  we  learned  was  ( ioat   Island, 
As  we  looked  upon  llu'in  silently,  and  listened  to  the  icaseless 
boom  like  ilistant  thunder,  which  shook  the  urounil  beneath  our 
■  feet,  across  the  snowy  veil  of  the  .\merican   I'all,   to  our  left,  shot  ra\s 
of  rosy  liL,du,  which  meltetl   into  amher,   then   into  <'m<'rald.      They  were 
*•  illuminating-  the  great  waters  with  colored  calcium  lights!      *     *     *      Hut 

the  brilliant  rays  which  fell  across  the  American  l'"alls,  ami  which  were  turned  on 
and  off  like  a  tlissolving  view,  diil  not  reach  to  the  Ilorse-Shoe  ball  awa\'  to  our 
right.  Vast,  solc'inn,  shadowy,  we  could  just  ilistinguish  its  form  in  the  darkness, 
could  hear  the  deep  murmur  of  its  awful  voice.  And  tlutre,  beiw('(;n  it  and  us,  what 
was  ///al  we  saw?  Was  it  some  huge  pale  ghost  standing  sentinel  before  Niagara.' 
White,  spixtral,  motionless,  it  rost;  up  and  reached  towards  the  stars — shapeless,  dim, 
vague  as  a  veiled  ghost.  There  was  something  almost  supernatural  about  it,  it  was 
like  a  colossal  spectre,  wrapped  in  a  robe  of  strange  dim  light. 

"'How  fine  and  upright  the  column  of  spra)  is  to-night,'  said  a  strange  voice 
beside  us.  This  broke  the  illusion.  But  yc:t  it  seemed  impossible  that  our  ghost 
should  be  only  a  pillar  of  rising  and  falling  spray!  We  saw  it  again,  daily  and  nightly, 
but  seldom  again  like  that.  We  saw  it  blown  along  in  clouds;  we  saw  it  like;  a  great 
veil  hiding  tlie  whole  faci;  of  the  I'all;  we  saw  it  oni;  evening  at  suns(;t  leaping  and 
sparkling  like  a  fountain  of  licfuid  gold, — I)ut  only  once  again  did  we  see  it  rise  uj)  in 
that  shape,  the  dim  and  ghostly  guardian  of  the  night. —  Through  Cities  and  Prairie 
Lands. 


11.- 


M 


i 


n 


v»u 


NlJlGfiI\jl   FflLhS   FROM   (LJINJIU^. 

;^f;]|*'\()  d.AZl'^  iiiU)  the  face;  ot"  thi:  calaracl  and  obtain  a  most  comprc;hcnsivc 
'^jyb.\*    virw  of  Xiaijara,  one  imist  stand  upon  the  public  road  which  follows  the 

S-'^y^  (;dgc  of  tiic  cliff  on  tiic  Canada  side.  Approachinj,^  the  Falls  from  the 
norlli,  almost  every  step  reveals  new  scenes  and  variations  in  a  mig'hty  and  won- 
drous panorama.  Here  is  the  foot  bridj^-e,  and  within  a  few  rods  the  road  to  the 
ferry  winds  its  way  to  the  water's  edge  below.  The  ferry-boat,  manned  by  veritable 
athlets,  tosses  lik(!  an  egy-slu.'ll  on  the  heaving  and  convulsed  water,  one  moment 
gliding  swiftly  down  the  stream  in  the  round  of  an  eddy,  the  next,  lifted  up  by  a 
boiling  wave  as  if  it  were  tossed  u[)  from  the  scoop  of  a  giant's  hand  beneath  the 
water.  Away  soulinvard  "tin;  cataract  flashes,  and  thunders  and  agonizes — an. 
almight)  mirack-  of  grandeur  for  ever  going  on; — the  sight  is  riveted  on  the  yeasty 
writhe  in  the  abysm,  ami  the  solemn  pillars  of  crystal  eternally  falling,  like  the  frag- 
ments of  souk;  palace-crested  star,  descending  through  interminable  space.  The 
white  fiekl  »,  'ht;  iris  forms  over  die  brow  of  the  cataract,  exhibits  its  radiant  bow, 
and  sails  awa)-  in  a  vanishing  cloud  of  vapor  upon  the  wind  ;  the  tortured  and 
convul.'.u  surface  of  the  caldron  below  shoots  out  its  frothy  and  seething  circles  in 
perpetuiJ  torment;  the  dumders  are  heaped  upon  each  other,  the  earth  trembles;" — 
the  rocks  and  woods  around  are  tinged  with  the  ever-changing  rays  of  the  rainbow; 
the  si)ectator  sees  the  whole  sweep  of  the  great  cataract  spread  before  him  at  once, 
in  a  fine  panoramic  vie.  w  of  both  Falls.  "Their  general  outline,"  from  a  description 
in  Harper's  Mondily,  "bears  a  close  resemblance  to  the  shape  of  the  human  ear;  the 
liorse-Shoe  I""all  constituting  die  upper  lobe,  while  Goat  Island  and  the  American 
I'all  re[)resent  the  remaining  portion.  The  river,  whose  general  course  has  been 
east  and  west,  mak(!s  a  siiarp  turn  to  the  right  just  at  the  point  where  the  Fall  now  is. 
Its  breadth  is  here  contracted  from  three-fourths  of  a  mile  to  less  than  one-fourth. 
The  Horse-Shoe  Fall  only  occupies  the  head  of  the  chasm,  while  the  American 
Cataract  falls  over  its  side;  so  that  this  Fall  and  a  part  of  the  Horse-Shoe  lie  directly 
parallel  with  the  Canada  shore,  and  its  whole  extent  can  be  taken  in  at  a  single 
glance.  It  is  this  oneness  of  aspect  which  renders  the  prospect  from  this  side  so 
much  the  more  impressive  for  a  iirst  view  of  Niagara.  It  gives  a  strong,  sharp 
outline  which  may  afterward  be  filled  up  at  leisure." 

TAKl.E    ROCK. 

Within  a  short  distance  stands  all  that  remains  of  the  Table  Rock;  a  narrow 
ledge  along  the  bank,  at  the  edge  of  the  Horse-Shoe  Fall.     "On  arriving  at  the 

110 


great  Horse-Shoe  Kail,"  says  Murray,  "description  must  stop  short ;  and  to  those 
who  have  not  seen  it,  imagination  must  be  left  to  finish  a  picture  of  which  words  can 
give  but  a  feeble  outline.  How  can  language  convey  expressions  too  tremendous 
and  sublime  even  for  the  mind  to  bear?  How  can  it  presume  to  emijody  a  scene  on 
which  the  eye  could  not  gaze,  to  which  the  ear  could  not  listen,  and  which  the 
oppressed  and  overwhelmed  power  of  reflection  could  not  contemplate  without 
feelings  of  awe,  wonder,  and  delight,  so  intense  as  to  amount  almost  to  pain!" 

Who  dotli  not  foel,  imtll  lils  failing  sijjlit 
Faints  into  dimnoss  witli  its  own  deiiglit, 
His  I'liimninK  cheolf,  lils  sinliing  lii'iirt  confess. 
The  miglit— tlio  ninjosty  ? 

—Bride  of  AhydoH. 

The  sight  is  indeed  impressive,  the  view  entrancing,  the  abyss  fascinating. 
Basil  Hall  mentions  this  curious  effect:  "  It  seemed  to  the  imagination  not  impossi- 
ble that  the _         _ -_._=„    with  a  feel 

Fall  mipfht 


swell  up  and 
grasp  us  in 
its  vortex. 
The  actual 
presence  of 
any  very 
po we  r  f  u  1 
moving  ob- 
ject, is  often 
more  or  less 
remotely 
connected 


GENKRAL  VIEV.'  OF  FALLS  FFOM  CANADA. 


ing  that  its 
J  direction 
:^y|  may  be  al- 
tered; and 
when  the 
slightest 
variation 
would  evi- 
dentlyprove 
fatal,  a  feel- 
ing of  awe 
is  easily  ex- 
cited. At  all 

events,  as  I  gazed  upon  the  cataract,  it  more  than  once  appeared  to  increase  in  its 
volume,  and  to  be  accelerated  in  its  velocity,  till  my  heated  fancy  became  strained, 
alarmed,  and  so  much  overcrowded  with  new  and  old  images, — all  exaggerated, — 
that  in  spite  of  the  conviction  that  the  whole  was  nonsense,  1  felt  obliged  to  draw 
back  from  the  edge  of  the  rock;  and  it  required  a  little  reflection  and  some  resolu- 
tion, to  advance  again  to  the  brink."  Guides  and  dresses  can  be  procured  at  this 
point  for  a  visit  to  the  cavernous  recess  under  the  Great  Fall. 

THE    RAPIDS. 

Apparendy  illimitable,  seeming  to  pour  from  the  blue  sky,  the  Canadian  Rapids 
are  full  before  you.  Forming  a  grand  and  striking  feature  in  the  scenery  of  Niagara, 
they  are  produced  by  the  compression  of  the  river  to  the  width  of  two  miles  and  a 
half  just  below  the  termination  of  Grand  and  Navy  Islands;  and  by  its  courst;  for 

117 


r  i> 


the  (list.iiKc  of  tlin-c  quarters  ot"  a  mile  over  Icd-'cs  of  ni.i^^gcd  rocks,  makinjr  a 
<lis(  11)1  (il  lirty  twn  t'cri  oil  tlu;  American  side,  and  fifty-sevcMi  on  the  Canada  side. 
It  is  ini|)ossil.lr  to  -iv(r  an  adequate  idea  of  this  rushing,  boiling  tide,  that  sweeps 
down,  through  the  islands  towards  the  verge,  as  if  a  myriad  of  war-stc-cds,  neighing 
and  painting,  were  (onlending  with  tlie  most  intense  ferocity.  The  Rapids  form  the 
prelude  to  the  gr.mder  displajs  of  the  i'alls  themselves,  and  viewed  alone,  are 
une(inalled  in  their  kind. 

(  lAKK     llll.l.    ISLANDS. 

On  the  ro.'id  past  Talile  Rock,  and  only  a  few  rods  distant,  is  Cedar  Island, 
connec  ted  with  the  main  land  at  either  extremit)-  by  a  pretty  little  truss  bridge.  On 
this  island  stands  a  I'agoda,  over  ('ighty  feet  in  height,  and  a  noticeable  land-mark 

from  all  points  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
I'"alls.       Li'aving   Cedar   Island,   the 
Cirand  Rapids  Drive  is  entered  upon. 
It  is  one  of  the  plcasantcst  roadways 
aroimd    Niagara,    extending    for    a 
<|iiarter   of  a    mile   close   along  the 
shore  of  the  Canadian  Rapids.    The 
view  it  affords  of  the  Rapids  is  grand, 
bc^yond  description.     Clark  Hill   Is- 
lands, five  in  number,  situated  in  the 
rapids  of  the  Niagara  river,  are  con- 
nected, at  eidier  side,  with  the  shore 
by  an  elegant  suspension  bridge  of 
two    hundred    and    fifty    feet    span. 
These  two  bridges  have  been  appro- 
priately named  "Castor,"  and  "Pol- 
lux."      The    scenery    through    the 
islands  is  of  the  most  varied  character;  the  quiet  rip- 
[)ling  of  the   narrow  streams   meandering  among   the 
well-wooded  islands  is  in  strong  contrast  to  the  turbu- 
lence of  tlu!  waters  that  hurry  on,  washing  the  shores 
of  the  group.     The  whole  scene  is  one  of  sweet  repose. 

Tin-;  r.iKMNc  sruiNt;. 

At  the  eastern  end  of  the  bridge  "  Pollux,"  on  the  bank  of  the  river,  near  the 
head  of  the  Rapids,  about  a  mile  above  the  Falls,  is  located  the  Burning  Spring. 
A  gas  tlows  through  the  water,  which  burns  with  a  pale  blue  flame  when  ignited. 
It  is  describeH  by  the  geologist  L)i.ll,  as  follows:  "  Carburetted  hydrogen,  or,  in  the 
modern  chemical  phraseology,  a  light  hydro-carbon,  rises  from  beneath  the  water 

118 


ALONG  THE   lj_'R.\'Ir]G    SPPING    DB;VE. 


110 


iiW 


4R' 


i 


1  , ; 


I 


out  of  tlir  limrstonc  ro(  k.  Ihr  hiuiminoiis  inattcr  suiiplyin^^  lliis  ^a^  is  prohably  of 
animal  oriijiii,  a-,  this  limestone  is  full  ol'  niarini;  m(jliiisca,  criistacea  and  corals, 
witiujut  \c,i(rtai)lr  nniains,  unless  some  fiicoicls  may  liavc  clecomposcHl  in  tin;  same 
strata.  Ilw  iinisihle  u^as  makes  its  way  in  eountliss  l)ul)i)K'S  throui,rh  the.  clear 
trans|.anin  waters  of  llie  Nia-ara.  (  )ii  the  application  of  a  li>;hteil  candle,  it  takes 
\\]-t\  and  l)la>s  alioui  widi  a  lamlient,  llickerin^'  ll.une,  which  seldom  touches  tin; 
u  iter,  till-  l;.is  hein^  at  first  too  pure  to  be  inlkimahle,  and  only  obtainini^f  sufficient 
();yj,a'n  after  min-liuLT  with  the  atmosphere."  I'or  the  puri)Ose  of  I'xperiments, 
witnessid  by  the  visitors,  the  i,Ms  is  collected  in  ;i  cylinder,  allowetl  to  i)ass  out 
of  the  top  of  it  lhroui,di  an  inch  pipe.  After  ciTlain  experiments  arc'  nuule,  show- 
iiiL,'  the  iriinendous  force  of  the  j^-as,  the  cyliiuK'r  is  removed,  and  the  gas  ignited 
on  the  surface  of  the  water,  through  which  it  escape's. 

Aiiovi-;    riiK  lAi.i.s. 

Following  the  old  Portage  road  from  the  Burning  Spring  to  the  Falls,  brings  the 

visitor  to  a  ])oint  on  the  bluff,  where  the 
river   m.iki's  a  sharp,   big   inshore,   along 
ii^y'-"-'.  the  tracks  of  the  Michigan   Central,  and 

W  !&!>  upon  this  spot  a  platform  has  been  erected 
W  by  the  Company  to  allow  imdislin'bed  en- 
joyment of  the  most  striking  view  of  the 
Cataract.  "  Niagara  should  be  first  ap- 
proached from  above,  and  from  the  Can- 
ada shore,"  is  a  sentiment  echoed  and  re- 
echoed by  the  writers  of  past  generations; 
and  the  one  comprehensive  view,  the 
grouping  of  Rapids  and  Islands  and  Flails 
and  Gorge  as  seen  from  Falls  \'iew  sta- 
tion on  the  Michigan  Central  Railroad,  pre- 
sents a  picture  of  surpassing  beauty.  The 
vast  concave  of  the  l-'alls  of  Niagara  opens 
upon  your  view.  The  American  Fall 
forms  thi'  fartlu'r  extremity  of  the  semi-circle,  breaking  in  a  broad  white  sheet  of 
foam  u|K)n  a  heap  of  rocks  below.  Close  by  its  inner  (extremity  is  a  gush  of  water 
— the  Centre  l*"all — which  in  any  other  situation  would  be  esteemed  a  considerable 
cascade,  but  lu.'re  seimis  but  a  fragment  of  the  larger  cataract  separated  by  a  small 
rocky  island  in  the  bed  of  the  river.  The  eye  then  rests  upon  the  preci|Mtous  end 
of  Goat  Island,  consisting  of  accumulated  masses  of  stone,  in  horizontal  strata,  sup- 
porting a  scanty  covering  of  earth,  and  crowded  to  the  edge  with  pines.  Then  the 
curve  of  the  Horse-Shoe  I'all  rounds  into  prospect  with  full  view  of  the  Islands  and 
the  angry  Canadian    Rapids.      "  \'our  eye  fixes  upon  some  special  white  crest  of 


# 


¥v 


f.» 


■i" 


f" 


IJl 


f>;.iiii,  and  fdllnus  it  down  until  it  melts  awav  into  a  smooth  <,m-c(mi  surface  roun(lin,t,f 
L,'(ntl\  over,  and  disapixariiiL,^  in  an  al)\ss  tlic  (li-|>lli  of  wliicli  yon  cannot  sec.  'I'hjs 
•^rccn  sl(i|ir  s\v((|)s  round  in  a  niaL,rniri(  cnt  curNc  to  tlic  ricjlit  ;  beyond  tills  is  a 
purple  L^ray  i)n(ipi(c,  and  still  further  on  a  white  cataract  llashin,!,^  back  the  sun- 
beams. I'rom  the  (cntre  of  the  c  iu-\c,  a  pillar  of  spra_\  lloats  calmly  up,  with  the 
(Town  of  a  rainbow  just  risim^"-  above  the  \crm-e  of  th(!  abyss."  And  atjain,  and 
ajjain.  will  the  eye  wander  from  ri<^lu  to  left,  and  from  left  to  ri<,dU;  from  the  point 
of  the  .American  l"all  to  the  near  shore  line  of  the  llorse-Shoe,  and  vice-versa, 
sweepiuLj  aroimd  the  circumference  of  the  majestic  curve  of  Xia^-ara.  At  a  short 
distaiK  !■  from  this  point  a  very  pretty  L,dimpse  of  the  Ami'i-ican  I'all  can  be  cau,i,dit 
through  an  opeiiini,^  in  the  bank  ilesi^naled  as  the  "Joll\-  Cut." 

IIM1\'>    lANi;. 
'l"o  the  west,  about  one  and  one-half  miles  distant,  stands  a  tower  erected  upon  the 
famous  battle-field  of  Lundy's  Lane.     On  July  25th,  1814,  the  decisive  battle  of  the 
war  was  fought  here.    An  old  campai^nier  who  does  the;  honors  at  the  observatory  (and 
thoMt;h  old  c.unijaii^ners 
Ii\c  and  die,  the  one  oc- 
cu|)yin:.,f  the  post,  is  an 


orii.;inal  oul  canipai<,qier, 

spirittKilly  to  say   the 

least.)  —  has,   they  say, 

two  xcrsions  of  the 

action,  which  he  |)ro- 

duces   as  he   sup|)Oses 

ma)  suit  the  nationality 

Druinmondville,  the  oriiL^inal  Canailian  city  at  the;  l-'alls,  so  called  in  honor  of  (it.'neral 

Drunimond,   th(^  traviUr  wi'uds  his  wa\-  .ilont^^  a  pleasant  road  to  the 

Wlllkl.l'ool.    K.M'IDS 

iust  '  .  \,\\  the  old  Suspension  nridy;c.     Here  a  staircase  and  also  an  inclined  railway 


TO   l.l*NDV  5    LAKE. 


of  his  auditors.  The 
stor)'  ((oes,  however, 
that  )ears  ago,  General 
Scott  was  regaled  with 
the  English  version,  and 
then  learned  for  the 
first  time  how  thorough- 
Ij'  he  was  beaten  upon 
that  well-contested  field. 
Through  the  village  of 


cciie. 


(ric'.,>( 


MR   easily  and  safely  to  the  |)latforni  below,  whence  the  sight  of  the  old 

jv<  .  tin;  roaring  rapids,  the  distant  whirlpool,  and  the  shady  walk  along  th(? 

.   giv(!   splenditl  views.     The  whole  volunn'  of   water  rushes  by  with 


111 


;u-\elous  i.ipiility,  boiling  and  seething  in  its  narrow  channels. 


■III1-:    WHIKl.l'ooI., 


Helow  the  Whirlpool  Ra])ids  is  situated  oni;  of  the  most  remarkable  features  of 
the  gorge  of  Niagara — the  Whirlpool, — worthy  of  more  attention  than  is  usually 
given  to  it  by  visitors  in  general.  Brock's  Monument,  erected  on  the  Oueenston 
ileights.'four  miles  distant,  is  visible  from  this  point,  ami  the  Niagara  river  winds 
awa\   to  the  north,  till  it  is  lost  in  Lake  (  )ntario  beyond. 


UNDEI?  THE  epTpRpCT. 


BASIL    HALL, 


I  VISIT  ED  on  three  different  occasions  an  extraordinary  cave  formed  between 
the  cascade  and  the  face  of  the;  overhanuin^  cliff— first,  on  the  3rd  of  July,  <'i't 
of  men-  curiosity;  a-ain  on  the  qth,  to  try  some  experiments  with  the  l^aromi-ter; 
and  lasdy.  on  the  loth,  in  company  with  a  friend,  purely  on  account  of  th.<  excite- 
ment which   1  found   such  a  strange   combination   of  circumstances   produce.     W  e 
reached  a  spot  153  feet  from  the  outside,  or  entrance,  by  thr  assistance  of  a  -uule, 
who  makes  a  handsome  livelihood  by  this  amphibious  pilotage.     There-  was  a  tol.'r- 
ably  good,  green  sort  of  light  within  this  singular  cavern;  but  the  wind  blew  us  first 
in  one  direction  then  in  another  widi  such  alarming  violence,  that  1  thought  at  Urst 
we  should  be  fairly  carried  off  our  f.'et.  and  jerked  into  the  roaring  caldron  b.-neath. 
This  tempest,  however,  was  not  nearly  so  great  an  inconvenience  as  the  unceasing 
deludes  of  water  driven  against  us.     Fortunately  the  direction  of  this  gaU-  ..I  wind 
was  always  more  or  less  ui.wards.  from  the  pool  below,  right  against  the  lace  ul   the 
ciiffs;  were  it  otherwise.  I  fancy  it  would  be  impossible  to  go  b.^hind  the  balls,  with 
any  chance  of  coming  out  again.     !•  ven  now  there  is  a  great  appearance  ..f  hazard 
in  the  expedition,  though  experience  shows  that  there  is  no  real  danger.     Inde-ed  the 
guide,  to  re-assure  us.  and  to  prove  the  difficvilty  of  the  descent,  actually  leaped 
downwards,  to  the  distance  of  five  or  six  yards,  fron.  the  top  of  the:  bank  of  rubbish 
at  the  base  of  the  cliff  along  which  the  padi  is  formed.     The  gusts  of  wind  rising 
out  of  the  basin  or  pool  below,  blew  so  violentl)-  against  him  that  he  easily  regained 

the  walk.  .        , 

This  enormous  cataract,  in  its  d.-scent.  like  every  other  cascade,  carries  along 
with  it  a  quantity  of  air,  which  it  forc.-s  far  below  the  surface  ol  the  wut..r.---an 
experiment  which  any  one  may  try  on  a  small  scale  by  pouring  water  into  a  tumbler 
from  a  height.  The  quantity  of  air  thus  carried  down,  by  so  vast  a  nver  as 
Niao-ara,  must  be  great,  and  the  depth  to  which  it  is  driven,  in  all  probability,  eon- 
side'^rable.  It  may  also  be  much  condensed  by  the  pressure;  and  it  will  nse  with 
proportionate  violence  both  on  the  outside  of  the  cascade,  and  wiU.in  the  sheet  or 

curtain  which  forms  the  cataract.  .     •       , 

It  had  long  been  a  subject  of  controversy.  I  was  told,  whether  thc=  air  in  the 
cave  behind  th^  Falls  was  condensed  or  rarified;  and  it  was  amusing  to  listen  to  the 
conflicting  arguments  on  the  subject.    All  parties  agreed  that  there  was  considerable 
"      "  ...  -11  .1  !  .  ...  „  „..,.,f  ,>i  -111-    rithiTs  nsserted 

•lit  while  some  asci 


difficulty  in  breathinj 

that  it  arose  from  the  quantity  being  too  gre 


at.     Tiie  truth,  however,  obviouslj  is, 


I'J.i 


\ 


iB 

1 

n\M\ 

t 

l 

i 

'1 

': 
1 

1 

14; 


tlial  \\r  \y.\\i-  tiMi  miK  h  water;  luil  too  miicli  air.  Tor  I  may  ask,  with  what  conifijrt 
cniild  aii>-  man  lucathr  with  haU'  a  ilo/cn  lirc-cngiin-s  playiri.c,'  full  in  his  face?  and 
posiiiM  ly  till  'tlrd  ofilic  lilasl  hrhind  \.\\v  I-'alls  is  just  what  that  awkward  ctTcmony 
iniL;lil  111'  sii|)|)(js((l  to  |ir()(lii(('. 

KMKCT   ol-    Till';    WIND. 

The  (liriilioi)  of  ilic  wind  is  first  one  way  and  then  another,  crossinj,'  and 
til\\artin.L,^  in  a  \  rr)-  eonfused  stjle,  and  llin.ijinn'  the  water  sometimes  up,  sometimes 
down,  and  often  whirliiiL;  it  rouml  and  round  like  smoke,  in  curls  or  spirals,  up  to 
the  \(r\  lop  of  the  cave,  a  huiKlred  feet  above  our  heads,  to  the  very  edge  of  th(; 
pn(  i|)i(e,  over  wliicji  we  could  ilistinctly  see  the  river  projected  forwards,  and  just 
liei^imiiiii:;  to  curve  dowiiwarils.  Hy  tlie  way,  1  look  notice  that,  exactly  in  propor- 
tion to  the  apparent  thickness  of  the  mass  of  water,  so  it  continued  united  after 
passing;  lli<'  brink.  Hut  1  tlo  not  thinbat  any  part  of  Niagara  the  sheet  of  falling 
water  remains  unbroken  for  more  than  twenty  feet,  and  that  only  at  one  place,  well 
known  b\  the  nami'  of  the  (irccii  Water — the  most  sublime  and  impressive  part  of 
the  whole  fall.  At  every  other,  the  cascade  assumes  a  snowy  whiteness  very  shortly 
after  it  begins  to  discend.  This  appearance  is  aided,  no  doubt,  by  the  blast  of  wind 
which  rises  from  the  |)ool  on  the  outside  of  the  sheet;  for  I  observed  that  the 
external  surface  of  the  cataract  was  roughened,  or  turned  upwards  in  a  series  of 
froth)  ripples,  caused  either  by  its  friction  against  the  air  through  which  it  was 
l)assing,  or  mori'  probably  l)y  the  blast  rising  upwards  from  the  pool. 

WATKR    CONES. 

1  remarked  another  singular  phenomenon,  which  I  have  not  happened  to  hear 
mentioned  before,  but  which  is  evidendy  connected  with  this  branch  of  the  subject. 
A  number  of  small,  sharp-pointed  cones  of  water  are  projected  upwards  from  the 
pool,  on  the  outsiile  of  the  hall,  sometimes  to  the  height  of  a  hundred  and  twenty 
feet.  1  hey  riseml)le  in  form  some  comets  of  which  I  have  seen  drawings.  Their 
point,  or  a|)ex,  wiiich  is  always  turned  upwards,  is  quite  sharp,  and  not  larger,  I 
should  say,  than  a  man's  fingers  and  thumb,  brought  as  nearly  to  a  point  as  possible. 
The  conical  tails  which  stream  from  these  watery  meteors  may  vary  from  one  or  two 
yards  to  ten  or  iwclvt',  and  are  spread  out  on  all  sides  in  a  very  curious  manner. 

1  he  lower  part  of  the  Fall,  it  must  be  observed,  is  so  constantly  hidden  from 
the  view  by  a  thick  rolling  cloud  of  spray,  that  during  ten  days  I  never  succeeded 
once  in  getting  a  glimpse  of  the  bottom  of  the  falling  sheet;  nor  do  I  believe  it  is 
ever  seen.  Out  of  this  cloud,  which  waves  backwards  and  forwards,  and  rises  at 
times  to  the  height  of  many  hundreds  of  feet  above  the  Falls,  these  singular  cones, 
or  comets,  are  seen  at  all  times  jumping  up.  The  altitude  to  which  they  are  pro- 
jecteil,  I  estimated  at  about  thirt)'  feet  below  the  top.  The  whole  height  being  between 
I  50  and  160  leet,  Uii-  jjerpendicular  elevation  to  which  these  jets  of  water  are  thrown 
cannot,  therefore,  bi'  less  Uian  i  10  or  120  feet  above  the  surface  of  the  pool. 


i:\l'i  kiMlAis. 

Till!  controviM-sy  n'spcclinL,^  ilic  elasticity  of  llir  :>ir  bcliiinl  ili<'  ImII,  was  soim 
settled.  I  carried  with  nie  a  barometer  made  expnssl)'  with  a  \iew  to  tills  t\|)eri 
nu:nt.  It  was  of  the  most  delicate  kinil,  ami  runiislied  will)  two  loiitriv.mces 
absolutely  indispensable  to  the  accuracy  of  experiments  made  under  such  circum 
stcinces.  The  first  of  these  was  a  circular  spirit-level  placed  on  top  of  ihi'  frame 
holding  the  tube,  by  which  the  perpemlicularity  of  the  instrument  was  ascertained  ; 
and  secondly,  an  arrangement  of  screws  near  the  |)oinl  of  support,  by  which  the  tulie, 
when  duly  adjusted,  could  bi;  secured  firmly  in  its  placi-.  Hy  the  help  of  these  two 
invtMitions,  this  instrument  can  Ik;  used  with  confidence,  although  exposed  to  such 
furious  storms  of  wind  and  rain,  as  that  I  have  just  been  describing.  These  simph; 
additions  to  the  barometer,  it  may  hv,  mentioned,  give  great  facility  to  observations 
made  for  the  determination  of  die  height  of  mountains,  as  it  secures  the  correct 
position  of  the  instrument,  however  windy  the  station  may  be. 

The  mercury  stood,  at  two  stations  on  tin;  outsiile,  at  2c>.  6S.  The  instrument 
was  then  carried  behind  the  I'"alls  and  placed  near  the  Termination  Rock,  as  an 
impassable  angle  of  the  cliff  is  called,  whicii  lies  at  the  distance  of  13^^  feet  from  the 
entrance,  measuring  from  die  Canadian  or  western  extremity  of  the  (ireat  I  lorse-Shoe 
Fall.  It  now  stood  at  about  2c^.  72.  The  thermomi-Ler  in  both  cases  being  at  70.  of 
Fahrenheit.  The  inner  station  was  probablj-  ten  or  twelve  fcrt  lower  than  tlu; 
external  one;  and  it  will  be  easily  understood,  that  in  such  a  situation,  with  a  torrent 
of  water  pouring  over  the  instrument  and  the  observer,  and  hard  s(iualls  or  gusts  of 
wind  threatening  to  whisk  the  whole  party  into  the  ab)ss,  there  could  be  go  great 
nicety  of  readings.  I  observed,  that  within  the  Fall,  the;  mercury  vibrated  in  the 
tube,  about  four  hundredths  of  an  inch,  and  was  never  perfecty  steady;  the  highest 
and  lowest  points  were  therefore  observ(;d  by  the  eye,  and  tin;  mean  recorded. 
During  the  external  observations  there  was  only  a  slight  tremor  visibU;  on  tin;  surface 
of  the  column.  In  order  to  prevent  mistakes,  I  repeated  the  e.xperiment  at  anotlK;r 
spot,  about  120  feet  within  the  entrance,  when  the  mercury  stood  at  about  29.  74. 
though  still  vibrating  several  hundreths  of  an  inch.  Upon  die  whole,  dien,  consider- 
ing that  the  inner  stations  were  lower  than  the  external  one,  the  small  diffc;rence 
between  the  external  and  the  internal  readings  may  be  ascribed  to  errors  in  observa- 
tion, and  not  to  any  difference  in  the  degree  of  elasticity  in  the  air  without  and  within 
tiie  sheet  of  falling  w^ater. 

Though  I  was  only  half  an  hour  behind  the  Fall,  I  came  out  much  cxliaustt;d, 
partly  with  the  bodily  exertion  of  maintaining  a  secure  footing  while  exposed  to  such 
buffeting  and  drenching,  and  pardy,  I  should  suppose,  from  die  interest  belonging  to 
this  scene,  which  certainly  exceeds  anything  I  ever  witnessed  before.  All  parts  of 
Niagara,  indeed,  are.  on  a  scale  which  baffles  every  attempt  of  the  imagination  to 
paint,  and  it  were  ridiculous,  therefore,  to  think  of  describing  it.  The  ordinary 
materials  of  description,  I  mean  analogy,  and  direct  comparison  with  things  which 
are  more  accessible,  fail  entirely  in  the  case  of  that  amazing  cataract,  which  is 
altogether  unique. 

li!3 


\ 


IN    WINTKK. 


(> 


\lu 


^M] 


(f-^ 


■■-^M 


\^. 


o 


\5 


Rkx/' 


Vl.k\'  II.W  pirsdiis,  ((iiii|iar.ili\(l>.  arc  aware  of  tin; 
s(  iius  i>r  siirpassiiiL;  ImmiH)'  imscnlrd  !>)  tlu;  Cataract  of 
NiiiL^ara,  in  uintir.  Its  appi  araiicr  is  lliiii  iiiiuli  inort;  attraclivi; 
and  s^lorious.  than  in  llic  siniinnr. 

riic  ircrs  arr  i ovcnd  with  the  most  lirilH;  'it  and  sparkliny 
coruscations  of  snow  .iiid  iic;  tint  islands,  the  shruhs,  th(j  ^iant 
rocks,  arc  rolicd  in  th<'  same  spotless  vesture.  l'"ro/i;n  spray, 
L^littcrini^  and  L^lcamini;  as  l)ri::,ditly  and  vivaciouslj-  as  frozen- 
sunlii^hl,  (IK  ases  all  thiiiLjs;  N'iai^ara  I'alls  is  the  ahsolutc  domin 
ion  of  till'  lie  Kin.L;.  In  hriq-ht  sunshine-,  the  llashinij  rays  from 
millions  of  i^cnis  produce  a  hewitchin^'  effect.  ".At  such  a 
moment  the  characteristic  attributes  of  Niagara  seem  fuscid  and 
heis^hteiieil  into  'somethinL,^  more  e\(|uisit(.'  still.'  Its  intrinsic 
sublimity  and  beauty  experience  a  liberal  transi"i,i,airatijn.  Nature 
is  visibly  itlealizetl.  XothiuLj  more  brilliant  or  cncl.antinj,'' can  be 
conceived.  The  briiL,dUest  tales  of  mai,nc  'pale  '.heir  ini:ffectual 
fires.'  Islands,  whose  llowers  are  thickset  diain  jnds,  and  forests, 
whose  branches  are  Lililterins,^  with  brilliants,  and  amethysts,  and 
pearls,  seem  no  lons^^er  a  luxurious  figment  of  --enius,  but  a  livinjif 
and  lieamini,^  reality.  One  feels  in  tlu;  midst  of  such  blazinj^ 
coruscations  and  such  y;lorious  bursts  of  railiance,  as  if  the  maifi- 
cian's  rint,^  had  been  slip|)ed  upon  his  fnifrer  unawares,  and, 
rubbed  unwittint^ly,  had  summonc'd  the  <rorgeous  scene  before 
him.  It  is  as  if  Mammoth  Cave,  witii  its  i^rfoves  of  stalactites, 
and  crystal  bowers,  and  cjothic  avenues  and  halls,  and  star 
chambers,  and  tlashin_<f  grottoes,  were  suddi-nly  uncapped  to  the 
wintery  sun,  and  bathed  in  his  ihrillinj^r  beams;  or  as  if  the  fabled 
palace  of  Xeptune  had  risi-n  abrupdy  from  the  deep,  and  were 
llingini,''  its  splendors  in  the  eye  of  heave-n." 

L'pon  the  occurrence  of  a  thaw  sufficient  to  brt-ak  up  the  ice 
in  Lake  Mrie,  masses  of  floating  ice,  dissevered  from  the  frozen 
lake  and  stream  above,  are  precipitated  over  the  L'alls  in  blocks 
of  several  tons  each.  Tluise  remain  at  the  foot  of  the  cataract, 
from  the  stream  being  closed  below,  "and  form  a  natural  bridge 
across  it.  As  the)-  accumulate,  they  get  progressively  piled  up, 
like  a  Cyclopean  wall,  built  of  huge  blocks  of  ice  instead  of  stone. 
This  singular  masonry  of  nature  gets  cemented  by  the  spray, 


1 

^  1 

H'  ' 


l^i]' 


u  lii,  h  1 1  .ill.;  ill  I  liiinl ,  111' mist  ,is  iimi.iI  Inini  lliitipni  ot  the  I'.ills,  iitt.icllis  ilsclf  in 
its  ii|)\\.iiil  |iin-ri  ■,.,  ici  iIk  i(  V  wall,  .iml  -.mum  ;;i1-,  trn/iii  with  llic  nst  of  the  mass, 
111  Ipiiu;  til  lill  ii|>  llii'  iiiii  islicis  111  t\M  III  ilir  l,irt;<  r  liKx  ks  of  wliicli  this  arclutiio 
I HIT   is  1 1  im|ii psril. " 

This  ir\  w.ill  111-  iiiMuinl  risi  ■>  ti|i  iV'iin  ilir  li.isr  nl'  the  titrrcnt  in  a  liiilwark  of 
|i\  iMiiiiil.il  liMiii.  in  hiiiii  111  till  ImIIs,  wiihiii  ,i  I'l  w  Int  of  ihr  cdj^fc  of  the  i)r(Jci|)ic(!, 
Ill  ,1  liriL;lii  111  limii  (Willi)  111  Imly  In  I  alio\r  llir  U\r\  of  ihc  upper  stream.  Seal- 
in;;  llir  iiiiiiiiiil  i^  .111  rxhilar.iliiii^  anil  laliorioiis  rxcri  ise,  hut  the  near  si;,fht  of  the. 
iiiadili  111  il  u.iii  is  pliini^inLf  into  llie  iliplhs  of  an  iinfathomaMi;  vortex  bulow,  is  a 
fittiiiL^  nu.inl  ii>y  ilie  .iiKriiliiriHis  uinlrri.ikini;. 

'ilir  ill'  liiiilL^e  i^iiirrall)'  e.Niriiils  fidiii  ilie  1  lorse- Shoe  I'.ill,  to  a  point  near  the 
Kailw.i)  liriiJL^e,  Lists  Miiicrally  fnnii  Iwo  to  ilinc  inonths,  and  is  crossed  by  hun- 
dreds of  flint  pa:  senL(<'rs  diirinj,'  the  winter.  liie  ire  fonninLf  the  hrid.Lfi;  is  ordin- 
arily from  one  lnii,dred  to  oiu;  Iiundri:d  and  lift)  fnl  thick — risinif  from  lift)'  to  sixty 
feel  alio\r  tile  iKitiiral  siirface  of  the  river.  The  tinL^c  of  the  waters,  from  the  dark 
i^reeii  of  suiiiiiur,  is  chaniji'ed  to  a  muddy  \ellow;  hui^e  icicles,  lurnied  hy  an  accum- 
ulation of  iVo/eii  spray,  liaiiL;  perpendii  iil.irly  from  the  rocks;  the  trees  on  (ioat 
Isl.iiid  and  I'rospeii  I'ark  seem  partially  buried;  a  mass  of  (|uaint  and  curious 
crysl,illine  forms  stand  in  lieu  of  the  bushes;  the  l)uildini,^s  seem  to  sink  under  pon- 
derous coveriiiLjs  of  snow  and  iie;  the  tops  of  tries  and  points  of  rock  on  which  the 
daz/liiiL;-  white  frost  work  does  not  lie,  stand  out  in  bold  contrast,  forming,"-  the  deep 
shadows  of  the  entranciiiL,^  picture;  the  whole  presi'uts  a  wilil,  sava^a;  aspect,  grand 
and  illlposint,^ 

(lo.il  Isliind  rem.iins,  in  winter,  one  of  the  chief  centers  of  attraction.  A 
prominent  I'an^lish  physiiian.  Dr.  Win.  Sharp,  writes:  "1  can  never  forget  my 
first  visit  to  il  in  December,  i  S.^o.  The  snow  was  falling  thickly  at  the  time.  Old 
Nicholson  constitutc;d  himself  as  guide  ami  proved  to  be  both  useful  and  amusing. 
The  Canailian  side  was  altogotiier  hidden  by  the  ha/y  mist  of  the  falling  snow,  and 
never  sinci'  or  before  iliil  1  look  up(jn  a  scene  so  awfully  grand  and  impressive  as 
Niagara  then  presented.  There,  with  okl  .Nicholson  in  the  back  ground,  I  was  alone 
with  naturi'.  A  sense  of  vague  imnunsity  that  was  almost  appalling  engrossed  the 
attention.  All  was  solitude,  vaslness  and  silence,  save  the  deep  thunder  of  the  Falls 
that  swelled  ever  like  a  mighty  anthem,  and  as  if  in  kei-pingwith  the  weird  sublimity 
of  the  scene,  two  gulls,  like  restk'ss,  wandering  spirits  of  the  deep,  swept  ceaselessly 
to  and  fro,  now  vanishing  from  sight  and  now  em(;rging  from  the  mist  and  gloom." 

If  one  can  s(;e  Niagara  but  once,  it  had  better  be  in  winter  than  in  summer. 
The  scene  is  one  of  peerless  grandtuir,  worth  going  hundreds  of  miles  to  behold. 


liiS 


SPKeUhflTIOiNH  OF   TIIK   HCIKXTmTiS, 


I^KTH(K'K)SWH)\  or  Tin:  FniJiK. 


siK    i;nAi<M  s    i.vri.L 


II 


WE  l'"IRSr  canu'  in  sinlit  of  ilic  I'alls  dl'  Miii^ara  when  lhi\'  \\<tc  aUoiil 
three  miles  distant.  'I'lie  sim  was  sliinin.i,^  full  ii|M)n  tlieni  no  ImildiiiL;  \\* 
view— nothin,"-  hut  the  ■,rrc,.ii  wood,  tin-  faliin,t,f  water  and  tlie  wiiile  foam.  .\l  tiial 
moment  they  appeju-ed  to  me  more  lieautiful  tlian  I  had  e\pe(teil,  and  less  j^rand; 
hut  after  several  da)s,  when  I  had  enjoyed  a  nean'r  view  of  the  two  cataracts,  lia<i 
listened  to  tiieir  tiHinderint,^  sound,  and  L;a/ed  on  them  for  hom's  from  ai)o\c  and 
i)c!ow,  and  hail  watched  thi'  river  foaminiL,''  over  tlie  rapids,  tlieii  phm^inL^  iieadlunv^ 
into  lh(!  dark  ])<)ol, — and  when  I  had  explored  tiie  delightful  island  which  ilivides 
th(!  falls,  where  the  solituth;  of  the  ancient  forest  is  still  unhroken,  I  at  last  learned 
by  dcj^rees  to  comprehend  tin;  wonders  of  the  scene,  and  to  feel  its  full  maj^niificence. 

Karly  in  the  morning  after  our  arrival,  I  saw  from  the  window  of  our  hotel,  on 
the  American  sitli;,  a  lont,''  train  of  white  vapory  clouds  ham,nn!^-  over  the  deep 
chasm  below  the  falls.  'I'hey  were  sliii^ditl)'  tinted  \)y  the  rays  of  tlie  rising'  sun,  and 
blown  slowly  northwards  by  a  tjentle  \)ri'x  ■  :  from  the  pool  i)elow  the  cataract,  which 
was  its(!lf  invisible  from  this  point  of  view.  No  foj^r  was  risintj  from  the  ^^fround,  the 
sky  was  clear  above;  and  as  th(!  day  advanced,  and  the  air  ijrew  warm,  the  vajiors 
all  ilisappcared.  This  scene  reminded  me  of  my  first  view  of  Mount  luna  from 
Catania,  when  I  saw  dense  volumes  of  steam  issuini^  from  the  summit  of  the  hi,i,diest 
crater  in  a  clear  blue  sky,  which,  at  the  hei,t,dit  of  more  tlian  two  miles  above  the 
.sea,  assumed  at  onc(!  the  usual  shape  and  hues  of  clouils  in  the  upper  atmosijhere. 
These,  too,  vanished  before  noon,  as  soon  as  the;  sun's  heat  increasetl. 

Etna  presents  us  not  merely  with  an  imatje  of  the  power  of  subterranean  heat, 
but  a  record  also  of  the  vast  pc;riod  of  time  durinjjf  which  that  power  has,  been 
exerted.  A  majestic  mountain  has  1)('en  produci'd  by  volcanic  action,  yet  the  time 
of  which  the  volcano  forms  the  rej^ister,  however  vast,  is  found  by  tlu;  jjeoloLfist  to 
be  of  inconsiderable  amount,  even  in  the  modern  annals  of  th(!  earth's  history.  In 
like  manner,  the  Falls  of  Niag-ara  teach  us  not  merely  to  a|)preciale  tlie  ])ower  of 
moving-  water,  but  furnish  us  at  the  same  time  with  data  for  estimating  the  enormous 
lapse  of  ages  during  which  that  force  has  operated.  A  deep  and  long  ravine  has 
been  excavated,  and  the  river  has  required  ages  to  accomplish  the  task,  yet  the 


ill 


i 


!■ 


ii 


■  Jii-,..  . 


s.imt-  rcj^ioii  iittord^  cvidiiK  r  lliat  the  sum  of  tlicsi'  as,u's  is  as  n()tllin,^^  and  as  tlu; 
work  ot  ^cstcrda),  wliiii  coinparcd  to  tlu:  aiitcci'dcnt  periods,  of  wliich  there  are 
inoniiniciits  in  the  same  district. 

kMH  I  Kii  iiKKiirr. 

It  lias  lonj;  l)(  (11  till'  popular  belief  from  a  mere  cursory  inspection  of  this 
district,  that  the  .\iaL,''ara  once  llowed  in  a  shallow  valley  across  the  whole  i)latforni 
from  the  present  site  of  the  l-"alls  U)  the  Oueenston  heights,  where  it  is  supposed  the 
cataract  was  hrst  situated,  and  that  thi'  river  has  i)een  slowly  eating  its  way  back- 
wards throuL^h  the  rijcks  for  a  distance  o'  seven  miles.  According  to  this  hypothesis, 
til.-  I'alls  must  have  had  originally  nearl\-  twice  their  present  height,  and  must  have 
been  alwajs  diminishing  in  grandeur  from  age  to  age,  as  they  will  continue  to  do  in 
future  so  long  as  the  retrograde  movement  is  prolonged.  It  becomes,  therefore,  a 
mait<r  of  no  small  curiosit)'  and  interest  to  intjuire  at  what  rate  the  work  of  excava- 
tion is  now  going  on,  and  thus  to  obtain  a  measure  for  calcidating  how  many 
thousands  of  jears  or  centuries  have;  been  required  to  hollow  out  the  chasm  already 
e\(  avated. 

Ki;Ci;XT    PKrxiFS    OK    EROSION. 

It  is  an  ascertained  fact,  that  the  l-alls  do  not  remain  absolutely  stationary  at 
the  same  point  of  space,  and  that  they  have  shifted  their  position  slightly  during  the 
last  half  century.  Every  observer  will  also  be  convinced  that  the  small  portion  of 
tlu;  great  ravine,  which  has  been  eroded  within  the  memory  of  man,  is  so  precisely 
identical  in  character  widi  the  whole  gorge  for  seven  miles  below,  that  the  river 
sui)plies  an  ade([uate  cause  for  executing  the  task  assigned  to  it,  provided  we  grant 
sutlicient  tiuu'  for  its  compKaion.  The  waters,  after  cutting  through  strata  of  lime- 
stone, about  fifty  feet  thick  in  the  rapids,  descend  perpendicularly  at  the  Falls  over 
another  mass  of  limestone  about  ninety  feet  thick,  beneath  which  lie  soft  shales  of 
ecjual  thickness,  continuall)-  undermined  by  the  action  of  the  spray  driven  violently 
by  gusts  of  wind  against  the  base  of  the  precipice.  In  consequence  of  this  disinte- 
gration, portions  of  the  incumbent  rock  are  left  unsupported,  and  tumble  down  from 
time:  to  time,  so  that  the  cataract  is  made  to  recede  southwards.  Mr.  Bakewell 
calculated  that,  in  the  forty  years  preceding  1S30,  the  Niagara  had  been  going  back 
at  the  rate  of  about  a  jard  annually,  but  I  conceive  that  one  foot  per  year  would  be 
a  much  more  probable  conjecture,  in  which  case  35,000  years  would  have  been 
required  for  the  retreat  of  the  Falls  from  the  escarpment  of  Queenston  to  their 
present  site,  if  we  could  assume  that  the  retrograde  movement  had  been  uniform 
throughout.  This,  however,  could  not  have  been  the  case,  as  at  every  step  in  the 
|)rocess  of  excavation  the  height  of  the  precipice,  the  hardness  of  the  materials  at 
its  base,  and  the  quantit)-  of  fallen  matter  to  be  removed,  must  have  varied.  At 
some  points  it  ma)  have  receded  much  faster  than  at  present,  at  others  much  slower, 

130 


and  it  would  be  scarcely  possilile  to  decide  whether  its  average  progress  has  been 
more  or  less  rapid  than  now. 


kKMNANTS    nl'    AN    (il.I)    KIVKR-UKI). 

While  wc  have  only  meagre  historical  data,  we  are  fortunately  not  without  geo- 
logical evidence  of  the  former  existence  of  a  channel  of  the  Niagara  at  a  much 
higher  level,  before  the  table-land  was  intersected  by  the  great  ravine.  Long  before 
my  \isit  to  the  Niagara,  I  had  been  informed  of  the  existence  on  Goat  Island  of 
beds  of  gravel  and  sand  containing  lluviatile  shells,  and  some  account  had  been  given 
of  these  by  Mr.  Hall  in  his  first  report.  I  therefore  pro|)osed  to  him  that  we  shoukl 
examine  these  cnrji'iiHy,  and  see  if  we  coukl  trace  any  r(Miinants  of  the  same  along 
the  edges  of  the  river-cliffs  below  tin;  b'alls.  We  b<!gan  by  collecting  in  Cioat 
Island  shells  of  the  genera  I  '/no,  Cyclas,  Milania,  I  'ahata,  Liiiiiua,  Planorbis.  anil 
Helix,  all  of  recent  species,  in  thi:  superficial  de|)osit.     They  form  regular  beds,  and 


f  .    Ijfiijjf'  of  tiarc  limcstutu-'  "ti  tlie  Caiiaila  sidt'. 
/.   Ancient  drift 


side,  where  two 
river-terraces,  one 
tweKe  and  the 
other  twenty-four 
feet  .'ibovi;  the 
N  i  a  g  a  r  a ,  h  a  \'  e 
been  cut  in  the 
modern  deposits. 
In  these  we  ob- 
served the  same 
fossil  shells  as   in 


numerous  individ- 
uals of  the  C^ni'o 
and  Cyclas  have 
both  their  valves 
united.  We  then 
found  the  same  for- 
mation exactly  op- 

^        *  Sfctiott  lit  Xiiujiirii   Fttli'i. 

posite  to  the  balls      i-  i.ini.»ton,  HotntihiLk. 

H.    SImh'  WP  ui-t  lliirk. 
on    the    top     of    the  *'•    freshwatiT  strata  on  (ioal  I.-^IalnI.  al)OVf 'Jit  feet  tlili-k. 

'  rt".   Sanio  formation  on  tlip  AnnTit-an  sidf ntaininK  Ijoni'ji  of  ; 

cliff  (at  d\  fig.  I .) 
on  the    American 

Goat  Island,  and  learneil  that  the  teeth  and  other  remains  of  a  mastodon,  some  of 
which  were  shown  us,  had  been  found  thirteen  feet  below  the  surface  of  the  soil. 
Wc  were  then  taken  bj-  our  guide  to  a  spot  farther  north,  where  similar  gravel  and 
sand  with  fkiviatile  shells  occurred  near  the  edge  of  the  cliff  overhanging  tin;  ravine, 
resting  on  the  solid  limestone.  It  was  about  half  a  mile  below  the  principal  Fall, 
and  extended  at  some  points  300  yards  inland,  but  no  farther,  for  it  was  then 
bounded  by  the  bank  of  more  ancient  drift  (/,  fig.  i).  This  deposit  precisely 
occupies  the  place  which  the  ancient  bed  and  alluvial  plain  of  the  Niagara  would 
naturally  have  filled,  if  the  river  once  extended  farther  northwards,  at  a  level  suffi- 
ciendy  high  to  cover  the  greater  part  of  Goat  Island.  At  that  period  the  ravine 
could  not  have  existed,  and  there  must  have  been  a  barrier,  several  miles  lower 
clown,  at  or  near  the  whirlpool. 

The  supposed  original  channel,  through  which  the  waters  flowed  from  Lake 
Erie  to  Queenston  or  Lewiston,  was  excavated  chiefly,  but  not  entirely,  in  the 
superficial  drift,  and  the  old  river-banks  cut  in  this  drift  are  still  to  be  seen  facing 

131 


ii-; 


cadi  (iihcr,  on  l.otli  sides  of  tlii'  ravine,  f(ir  many  miles  Ix'Iow  tlie  I'alls.  A  section 
of  (ioai  Island  from  soiilli  lo  north,  or  jjarallcl  to  the  course  of  the  Niai^ara  (hJ^^  2), 
shows  that  the  limestone  (15)  had  been  j^^reatly  denuded  befon:  the  lluviatih;  beds  (r) 
weri'  a( cumulated,  and  c(jnse(|uenll)  when  the  l''alls  were  still  several  miles  below 
their  present  site.      i-"rom  diis   fact  1  infer  that  the   slope  of  the  river  at  the  rapids 

duced  me  in  the  fol- 


was  ])rm(ipally  due 
to  llie  orii^nnal  sha|)e 
of  the  old  channel, 
and  not,  as  some 
have  conjectured,  to 
modern  erosions  on 


FliiCUK  ■. 


-.—-E 


lowing  year  to  ri-- 
examine  diligently 
both  sides  of  the 
river  from  the  I'alls 
to    Lcwiston    and 


tile    a|)proacil    of    the      Serltim  „/  Uont  Mamlfrom  Xorth  to  South,  l,Sno  feet  in  length.      OuCCllStOn,   tO  aSC(T- 

tain    if  any  other 


\.    MiWKivc  coiiiim*-!  portion  of  the  Niau'ara  liriicj^Ioiu'. 


rails    to    tlle     spot.  |,     ip,„,rti,in-l»'dil.iliiortioiiof  thl•^'iaJ.MralilUl«t.lnl■.Htrala»linllll>• 
I  In;    observations  ,    n„riz..iiiaifn»hwa'i.riK.iiHoft(ravii,wiiiii, aiiiiioam.\\i!iii<iKii.s.      [)atchcs    ot    thc    aii- 

,         .                            .  1)  K.    l»rf'Hciit  surfaci' ot  thf  river  Niagara  at  the  Haitiils. 

made    in    1  S4  1    in-  i , 


cicnt   rlvcr-bcd  had 


escaped  destruction.  Accordingly,  following  first  the  edge  of  the  cliffs  on  the 
eastern  bank,  I  discovered,  with  no  small  delight,  at  the  summer-house  (H,  fig.  3), 
above  the  whirlpool,  a  bed  of  stratified  sand  and  gravel,  forty  feet  thick,  containing 
tluviatile  shells  in  abundance.  P'ortunately,  a  few  yards  from  the  sumnier-h9use  a 
pit  had  been  recently  dug  for  the  cellar  of  a  new  house  to  the  depth  of  nine  feet  in 
the  shelly  sand,  in  which  I  found  shells  of  thc  genera  Unto,  Cyclas,  Mclania,  Helix, 
and  Pi(p(j,  not  onlj-  identical  in  species  with  those  which  occur  in  a  fresh  state  in  thc 


bed  of  the  Niagara, 
near  the  ferrj-,  but 
corresponding  also 
in  thc  proportionate 
number  of  individ- 
uals belonging  to 
each  species,  that  of 
Cyilas  siiiiilis,  for 
example,  being  the 
most  numerous.  The 
same  jear  I  found 
also  a  remnant  of 
the  old  river-bed  on 
the  opposite  or  Ca- 


FUllKE  3. 

/ 

E                  J^:^*/^  ;•;•:: 

%.^=^^ 

7 -^JZ—    -v     --    - 

i'"'^ 

A                                 - — 

■—                       '                            .^ 

1 

-^—                    ^ 

1 

1 

Sict 

ion  lit  the  Summer-house  above  M'hirlpool,  east  bank         ] 

of  'SUigara. 

A 

Tliick-tM'iIdi  d  Iimestont\  same  iih  at  FuUf^. 
Ancient  drift. 

r. 

notilders  at  base  of  steep  bank  formed  I)y  drift. 

d. 
K 

Fresliwater  Rtrata  forty  feet  thick. 
SummtT-liouse. 

, 

nadian  side  of  the 
river,  about  a  mile 
and  a  half  above  the 
whirlpool,  or  two 
miles  and  a  half  be- 
low the  Falls.  These 
facts  appear  conclu- 
sive as  to  the  former 
extension  of  a  more 
elevated  valley,  four 
miles,  at  least,  below 
the  Falls;  and  at  this 
point  the  old  river- 
bed must  have  been 


so  high  as  to  be  capable  of  holding  back  thc  waters  which  covered  all  thc  patches 
of  tluviatile  sand  and  gravel,  including  that  of  Goat  Island.  As  the  table-land  or 
limestone-platform  rises  gently  to  the  north,  and  is  highest  near  Quecnston,  there 
is  no  reason  to  suppose  that  there  was  a  greater  fall  in  thc  Niagara  when  it  flowed 


VA'i 


at  its  higher  k;vt:l,  than  now  betwci-n  Lake  F.ric  ami  the  Falls;  and  according  to  this 
view,  the  old  channel  might  well  have  furnished  the  recjuired  barrier. 

I  have  stated  that  on  the  left,  or  Canadian  bank  of  the  Niagara,  below  the  Falls. 
I  succeeded  in  detecting  sand  with  freshwater  shells  at  one  point  only,  near  the 
mouth  of  the  muddy  river.  T!ie  ledgt;  of  limestone  on  this  side  is  usually  laid  bare, 
or  only  covered  by  vegetable  mould  (as  at  f ,  fig.  i),  until  we  arrive  at  the  boulder 
clay  (/  fig.  i),  which  is  sometimes  within  a  fcnv  yards  of  the  top  of  the  precipice, 
and  sometimes  again  retires  eighty  yards  or  more  from  it,  being  from  twenty  to  fifty 
feet  in  height.  I  also  found  an  old  river-bed  running  thrcuigh  the  drift  parallel  to 
the  Niagara,  its  course  still  marked  by  swamps  and  ponds,  such  as  we  find  in  all 
alluvial  plains,  and  only  remarkable  here  because  the  river  now  runs  at  a  lower  level 
by  300  feet.  This  deserted  channel  occurs  between  the  Mudd)'  River  antl  the 
Whirlpool,  and  is  1 00  yards  broad. 

THE    devil's    hole. 

There  is  also  a  notch  or  indentation,  called  the  "Devil's  Hole,"  on  the  right  or 

eastern  side  of  the  Niagara,  half  a  mile  Ijelow  the  Whirlpool,  which  deserves  notice, 

for  there,  I  think,  there  are  signs  of  the  Great  Cataract  having  been  once  situated 

A  small  streamlet,  called  the  "Bloody  Run,"   from  a  battle  fought  there  with  the 

Indians,  joins   the   Niagara  at   this   place,  and   has   hollowed  out  a  lateral   chasm. 

Ascending  the  great  ravine,  we  here  see,  facing  us,  a  projecting  cliff  of  limestone, 

which  stands  out  forty  feet  beyond  the  general  range  of  the  river  cliff  below,  and 

has  its  llat  summit  bare  and  without  soil,  just  as  if  it  had  once  formed  the  eastern 

side  of  the  Great  F'all. 

recession. 

By  exploring  the  banks  of  the  Niagara  above  the  Falls,  I  satisfied  myself  that 
if  the  river  should  continue  to  cut  back  the  ravine  still  farther  southwards,  it  would 
leave  here  and  there,  near  the  verge  of  the  precipice  and  on  its  islands,  strata  of 
sand  and  loam,  with  freshwater  shells  similar  to  those  already  described.  I  collected 
fossil  shells,  for  example,  on  the  left  bank,  near  the  Chippewa  River,  and  learnt  that 
others  had  been  reached,  in  sinking  a  well,  in  18 18,  at  the  south-east  end  of  Grand 
Island.     The  situation  of  such  deposits  is  represented  at  a,  a  (fig.  4). 

The  patches  of  tluviatile  strata,  therefore,  occurring  between  the  old  banks  of 
drift  (/y^  fig.  i)  and  the  precipice,  and  not  having  been  met  with  on  other  parts 
of  the  platform  at  a  distance  from  the  Niagara,  confirm  the  theory,  previously 
adopted  on  independent  evidence,  of  the  recession  of  the  Falls  from  Queenston 
southwards.  The  narrowness  of  the  gorge  near  Queenston,  where  it  is  just  large 
enough  to  contain  the  rapid  current  of  ivater,  accords  well  with  the  same  hypothesis, 
and  there  is  ncyground  for  suspecting  that  the  excavation  was  assisted  by  an  original 
rent  in  the  rocks,  because  there  is  no  fissure  at  present  in  the  limestone  at  the  balls, 
where  the  moving  waters  alone  have  power  to  cut  their  way  backwarils. 


1^1 
ill 


i 


! 


I  li;iv  already  rcmark(*tl  that  there  will  always  be  insuperable  difficulties  in  the 
way  of  rstiinatin_J4  with  pn(  ision  the  rate  of  the  retroj^ression  of  the  Falls  in  former 
a,t((s.  I)r(  ausc  at  every  step  new  strata  have  been  succ(*ssively  exposed  at  the  base  of 
the  pre(  ipiee.  Aceordinij  to  their  softer  or  harder  nature,  the  undermining  process 
must  have  been  accelerated  or  retarded.  Tliis  will  be  understood  by  reference  to 
the  annexed  section  (fi^-.  4),  where!  the  line  /^  i\  (L  represents  the  present  surface  of 
the  river  alonu,^  which  the  I'alls  have  rt!t:eded.  The  strata  (1,3  and  7),  are  of  soft 
materials;  the  otlu-rs  (2,  4  and  S).  which  slii^htl)'  project  at  their  termination  in  the 
escarpment,  are  of  a  more  compact  and  refractory  kind.  It  has  been  necessary  to 
exaLji^nrate  the  southward  dip  of  the  strata  in  this  diaj^ram,  which  is  in  reality  so 
sliL^ht  as  to  be  insensible  to  the  eye,  beini;  only,  as  before  mentioned,  about  twenty- 
live;  fe<t  in  a  mile,  tlu*  river  channel  slopini^^  in  an  oppositti  direction  at  the  rate  of 
fifteen  feet  in  a  mih;.  These  two  inclinations,  taken  toi^^ether,  have  caused,  as  Mr. 
I  lal!  has  pointed  out  in  his  Survey,  a  diminution  of  forty  I  -et  in  the  perpendicular 
hei^^dit  of  the  b'alls  for  every  mile  that  they  receded  southward.  By  reference  to  the 
section,  the  reader  will  piM'ceive  that  when  they  were  situated  at  the  Whirlpool  {c) 
the  (|uarl/ose  sandstone  (2),  which  is  extremely  hard,  was  at  the  base  of  the  preci- 
pice, and  here  the  (ireat  Cataract  may  have  remained  nearly  stationary  for  ajjes. 


North, 


L4*Wi»<tnu 


Section  ttf  the  Strattt  along  the  Sutginn  Itiver,  from  Lake  Onturi't  to  Lake  A'Wc— (Chiufly  ffoiii  Hull's  Ut'imrt 

cm  the  ecology  of  New  York. 


Iti'tl  hliatv  r^aiiilMtoiit'  aiiil  marl,  sct-n  in  thr  lijiuk  of  the  rivt-r 

itt  I>-ui!<toii.  aii<l  t  itfiKlini:  In  Lakt-  onturin. 
(irry  ciuartZ"w  >iiiul.-!t'iii-. 
ll«-(l  Hlialv  i«antlr<t<>iie  like  No.  l.iwitli  thin  foiiraeH  of  ftaml- 

t*ti'iio  near  tin-  t"ii.i 
<tiv.v  ami  lu'tttlfil  Huiiilstoue,  I'ou-litiitiiiK  with  those  Im-Iow. 

thf  Mi'dina  Kanilhtone. 
A  thin  niasM  ot  ^'n'fii  Mhalt>. 
Coinpai't  j:ny  liincstoiu'.  which,  witli  N.i,  5.  conatitutes  the 

Cliiiltiii  i^roiip  at  this  plat-*-. 
Hoft  arjrilli'M'ali-an-oii.-*  ahale.    Niftvara  Mhale. 
lariH-Ktiuie    4<nupai-t  aiitl  iJcochft-rims.    Niat'ani  liiiii'stonc. 
Till'  iipiuT  thiii-tioilded  pnrtioii  i>f  the  Nia^'ara  liiiiestMne. 
<  >iiiiii<latra  salt  ^nmp.  int-lu<liii»f  tin-  hv<Irauhr  liiue>tone,  or 

tuilH  of  pa-sHniff  to  the  next  nii-k. 
Onondaga  and  <'omileroiiH  limeAtnneB,  iM'in^  all  the  lime- 

HtoneK  i>f  the  lltdderbetK  dlvisiou  which  eontinue  ro  far 

Wff«twatd. 


(I.  It.  A  lluviatile  deposit  in  the  dopreBnlon  sonth  of  the  RapidH, 
prohahly  simitar  to  the  tluviatile  deposit  of  (ioat  iHland. 

''. '".  </./.  f/. ''.  llie  diittetl  line  reprt'senttt  the  pretieut  Burfaee  of 
the  river  from  I>'WiHton  to  Lake  Krie. 

(/./.     The  periH-ndieular  fall,  over  tlie  Niagara  liineRtone  and  8hale. 

/,  {/.  Tlie  Itapid.>*,  fifty-two  feet,  over  the  upper  thin>bedded  por- 
tion of  the  Niagara  limeatoue. 

r.        The  WhirlpcKil. 

i.  i .  Tlie  poHition  of  the  Falls  and  Rapids  after  a  rceeesion  of 
two  miles. 

.V((/^.  The  fainter  lines  indicate  that  portion  of  the  rocks  wliich 
haa  lH>eu  already  cut  tlirouRh  by  the  Niagara. 

llie  «uperrtcial  drift  or  boulder  fonuation  is  not  represented 

in  thia  section. 
Ix-npth  of  section  from  north  to  south  about  twenty-eight 

miles. 


KlTlkK    KKTKOCKSSION. 

In  regard  to  the  future  retrocession  of  the  Falls,  it  will  be  perceived  by  the 
same  section  (fig.  4),  that  when  they  have  traveled  back  two  miles,  or  to  /,  /',  the 
massive  limestone  (8).  now  at  the  top  of  the  P^dls,  will  then  be  at  their  base;  and  its 
great  hardness  may,  perhaps,  effectually  stop  the  excavating  process,  if  it  should 
not  have  been  previously  arrested  by  the  descent  of  large  masses  of  the  same  rock 
from  the  cliff  above.     It  will  also  appear  that  the  Falls  will  continually  diminish  in 


134 


height,  and  should  they  ever  reach   Lake  Erie,  they  will  intersect  entirely  different 
strata  from  those  over  which  the)-  are  now  thrown. 


(IKIC.IN    I  IK     rilK    lAI.I.S. 

The  next  inquiry  into  which  we  are  naturally  letl  by  our  ri;tros|)ect  into  the  past 
history  of  this  region,  relates  to  the  origin  of  the  I*"alls.  If  they  were  once  seven 
miles  northward  of  their  present  site,  in  what  manner,  and  at  what  geological  period, 
did  they  first  come  into  existence?  In  tracing  back  the  serii-s  of  jiast  events,  \\v. 
have  already  seen  that  the  last  change  was  the  erosion  of  the  great  ravine;  previously 
to  which  occurred  the  deposition  of  the  freshwater  deposit,  including  fossil  shells  of 
recent  species,  and  the  bones  of  the  Mastodon.  Thirdly,  of  still  older  date  was  the 
drift  or  boulder  formation  which  overspreads  the  whole  platform  and  the  face  of  the 
escarpment  near  Oueenston,  as  well  as  the  low  country  between  it  and  Lak(!  Ontario. 
I'ourthly,  the  denudation  of  the  line  of  cliff  or  escarpment,  in  which  the  table-land 
ends  abrupd)-,  precechid  the  origin  of  the  drift.  This  drift  was  of  marine  origin, 
and  formed  when  the  whole  countrj-  was  submerged  beneath  the  sea.  In  the  ri-gion 
of  the  Niagara  it  is  stratified,  and  though  no  fossils  ha\e  as  yet  been  detected  in  it, 
similar  deposits  occur  in  the  valley  of  the  St.  Lawrence  at  Montn^al,  at  a  height 
nearly  ecjual  to  Lake  Krie,  where  fossil  shells,  of  species  such  as  now  inhabit  the 
northern  seas,  lie  buried  in  the  drift. 

It  is  almost  superfluous  to  affirm  that  a  consideration  of  the  geology  of  the 
whole  basin  of  tht;  St.  Lawrence  and  the  great  lakes  can  alone  entitle  us  to  speculate 
on  the  state  of  things  which  immediately  preceded  or  accompanied  the  origin  of  the 
Great  Cataract.  To  give  even  a  brief  sketch  of  the  various  phenomena  to  which 
our  attention  must  be  directed,  in  order  to  solve  this  curious  problem,  would  require 
a  digression  of  several  chapters.  At  present  the  shortest  and  most  int(  lligible  way 
of  explaining  the  results  of  my  observations  and  reflections  on  this  subject  will  be 
to  describe  the  successive  changes  in  the  order  in  which  I  imagine  them  to  havi; 
happened.  The  first  event  then  to  which  we  must  recur  is  the  superficial  waste  or 
denudation  of  the  older  stratified  rocks  (from  i  to  lo  inclusive,  section,  fig.  4),  all  of 
which  had  remained  nearly  undisturbed  and  horizontal  from  the  era  of  their  forma- 
tion beneath  tlu;  sea  to  a  comparativelj-  modern  period.  That  they  were  all  of 
marine  origin  is  proved  by  their  imbedded  corals  and  shells.  They  at  length 
emerged  slowly,  and  portions  of  their  edges  were  removed  by  the  action  of  the 
waves  and  currents,  by  which  cliffs  were  formed  at  successive  heights,  especially 
where  hard  limestones  (such  as  Nos.  10  and  8,  fig.  4),  at  Blackrock  and  Lewiston, 
were  incumbent  on  soft  shales.  After  this  denudation  the  whole  region  was  again 
gradually  submerged,  and  this  event  took  place  during  the  glacial  period,  at  which 
time  the  surfaces  of  the  rocks  already  denuded  were  smoothed,  polished,  and 
furrowed  by  glacial  action,  which  operated  successively  at  different  levels.     The 


\\    1! 


if 


toimtry  was  tlun  l)urii(l  midrr  a  load  of  stralificd  and  imstratificd  sand,  gravel  and 
(•nati(  liloc  ks,  orcasionall)  St),  and  in  souk;  liollows  more  than  300,  feet  deep.  An 
old  ravini'  tcnninalin^^  at  St.  David's,  which  int(Tst:cts  the  hmestone  platform  of  the 
Xi.i^.ira,  and  opins  iiiM  the  j^^rcat  escar|)inent,  illustrates  the  posteriority  of  this 
(hifi  to  the  ciMK  h  wlH;n  liie  old(;r  rocks  wert?  denuded.  The  period  of  submer^-ence 
last  alluded  to  u.is  very  modern,  for  the  shells  then  inhabitintj  the  ocean  belonu-ed, 
.ilinosi  willioiil  exception,  to  s|)rcirs  still  livin^f  in  high  northern,  and  some  of  them 
in  tcinpcr.Uc,  latitudi's,  Tiic  'icxt  great  change  was  the  re-emergence  of  this  country, 
((insisting  of  the  an      at  1  1  rocks,  covered  indiscriminately  with  modern  marine 

drift.  I'lie  upw.ird  m')\  ■  'i  '  which  this  was  accomplished  was  not  sudden  and 
instantaneous,  but  gradu.ii  and  inicruiittent.  The  pauses  by  which  it  was  interrupted 
arc  marked  by  ancieiil  >■•■  b  lines  ''idges,  and  terraci;s,  foimd  at  different  heights 
above  the  present  lakes.  liu  ridi;  -  ;ir.  '  terraces  are  partly  due  to  the  denuda- 
tion and  re-arrangement  of  the  materials  ol  ilu'  drift  itself,  which  had  previousl)'  been 
deposited  on  tlie  platform,  tin:  sloping  face  of  the  escarpments,  and  in  the  basins  of 
the  great  lakes. 

.As  soon  as  the  table-land  between  Lakes  I'lrie  and  Ontario  emerged  and  was 
laid  dry,  the  river  Niagara  came  into  existence,  the  basin  of  Lake  Ontario  still 
conlinin'ng  to  form  part  of  the  sea  From  that  moment  there  was  a  cascade  at 
(Jueenston  of  moderate  height,  which  fell  directly  into  the  sea.  The  uppermost 
limestone  and  subjacent  slate  (8  and  7,  fig.  4)  being  exposed,  the  cataract  commenced 
its  retrograde  course,  while  the  lower  beds  in  the  escarpment  (from  6  to  i)  were  still 
prot('cted  from  waste  l)y  remaining  submerged.  A  second  fall  would  in  due  time  be 
caused  b\-  the  continued  rise  of  the  land  and  the  e.xposure  of  th(;  hard  beds  (6  and  4), 
constituting  what  is  called  the  Clinton  group,  together  with  the  soft  and  easily  under- 
mined red  shale  (3)  on  which  they  repose.  Finally,  a  third  cascade  would  in  all 
likelihood  be  produced  by  the  rise  of  another  hard  mass,  the  (]uartzose  sandstone 
(;!,  fig.  4),  resting  on  very  destructible  red  shale  (i).  Three  falls,  one  above  the 
other,  very  similar  in  tiieir  geological  and  geographical  position  to  those  actually 
seen  on  the  river  (ienesee,  at  Rochester,  would  thus  be  formed.  The  recession  of 
the  uppermost  must  have  been  gradually  retarded  by  die  thickening  of  the;  incumbent 
limestone  (No.  S,  lig.  4),  in  proportion  as  the  falls  sawed  their  way  southwards.  Hy 
this  means  the  second  cataract,  which  would  not  sufle-r  the  same  retardation,  mitrht 
overtake  it,  and  the  two  united  woukl  then  be  retarded  by  the  large  ([uantity  of  rock  • 
to  be  ri'moved,  until  the  lowest  fall  would  come  up  to  them,  and  then  the  whole 
would  be  united  into  one. 

I.Al'Sl-:    OK    TIME. 

The  princi[)al  events  enimierated  in  the  above  retrospect,  comprising  the  sub- 
mergence and  re-emergence  of  the  Canadian  lake  district  and  valley  of  the  St. 
Lawrence,  the  deposition  of  freshwater  strata,  and  the  gradual  erosixin  of  a  ravine 

136 


r 


i;iT 


w 


Ilii 


i"' 


ml] 

-<      i 
l'     ' 


h^l-H 


scvi  I)  miles  Ioiil;,  arc  all  so  modern  in  tin;  earth's  history  as  to  lu-iong  to  a  period 
when  tlir  marine,  the  lliiviatile,  and  terrestrial  shells  \ver(;  the  same,  or  nearly 
the  same,  as  those  now  livinj^r.  Yet  if  we  fix  our  thoucfhts  on  any  one  portion  of 
this  |ieriod on  the  lapse  of  time,  for  example,  required  for  the  recession  of  the 
N'iaj^Mra  from  the  escarjiment  to  tlu;  I'alls, — how  immeasurably  jjreat  will  its  duration 
appear  in  (omi)arison  with  the  simi  of  years  to  which  the  annals  of  the  hiunan  race 
•ire  limited!  Had  we  happened  to  discover  .strata,  charged  with  Ihiviatile  shells  of 
reeiiit  s|)ei  ies.  and  enclosinn-  the  hones  and  teeth  of  a  Mastodon,  near  a  river  at  the 
hottom  of  some  valley,  we  might  naturally  have  inferred  that  the  buried  (juadruped 
had  perished  at  an  era  long  after  the  canoes  of  the  Indian  hunter  had  navigated  the 
North  .\meri(  an  waters.  Such  an  inference  might  easily  have  been  drawn  respecting 
till'  fossil  tusks  of  the  great  elephantine  (juadruped,  which  I  saw  taken  out  of  the 
shell-marl  on  the  banks  of  the  Genesee  River  near  Rochester.  Hut  fortunately  on 
the  Niagara,  wi-  may  turn  to  the  deep  ravine,  and  behold  therein  a  chronometer 
measuring  rutlely,  yet  emphatically,  the  vast  magnitude  of  the  interval  of  years, 
which  separates  the  present  time^  from  the  epoch  when  the  Niagara  flowed  at  a 
higher  level  several  miles  further  north  across  the  platform.  We  th(Mi  became 
consiious  how  far  the  two  events  before  confoimded  together, — the  entombment  of 
the  Mastodon,  antl  the  date  of  the  first  peopling  of  the  earth  b)-  man, — may  recede; 
to  distances  almost  indefinitely  remote  from  each  other. 

lUit,  Iu)wever  much  we  may  enlarge  our  ideas  of  the  time  which  has  elapsed 
since  the  Niagara  first  Ijegan  to  drain  the  waters  of  the  upper  lakes,  we  have  seen 
tliat  this  period  was  one  only  of  a  series,  all  belonging  to  the  present  zoological 
<|)Och;  or  that  in  which  the  living  testaceous  fauna,  whether  freshwater  or  marine, 
had  already  come  into  being,  if  such  events  can  take  place  while  the  zoology  of 
the  earth  remains  almost  stationary  and  unaltered,  what  ages  may  not  be  compre- 
hendeti  in  tliosi;  successive  tertiary  periods  during  which  the  Flora  and  Fauna  of  the 
gloDc  have  been  almost  i-ntirely  changed!  Yet  how  subordinate  a  place  in  the  long 
calendar  of  geological  chronology  do  the  successive  tertiary  periods  themselves 
occui)y!  How  much  more  enormous  a  duration  must  we  assign  to  many  antecedent 
revolutions  of  the  earth  and  its  inhabitants!  No  analogy  can  be  found  in  the  natural 
world  to  the  immense  scale  of  these  divisions  of  past  time,  unless  we  contemplate 
the  c  elestial  spaces  which  have  been  measureil  by  the  astronomer.  Some  of  the 
nearest  of  thesi;  within  the  limits  of  the  solar  system,  as,  for  example,  the  orbits  of 
the  |)lanets,  are  reckoned  by  hundreds  of  millions  of  miles,  which  the  imagination 
in  vain  endeavors  to  grasp.  Y'et  one  of  these  spaces,  such  as  the  diameter  of  the 
earth's  orbit,  is  regarded  as  a  mere  unit,  a  mere  infinitesimal  fraction  of  the  distance 
which  separates  our  sun  from  the  nearest  star. 

IW  pursuing  still  farther  the  same  investigations,  we  learn  that  there  an;  lumin- 
ous clouds  scared)  distinguishable  by  the  naked  e)-e,  but  resolvable  b)-  the  telescope 

138 


into  clusters  of  stars,  which  an*  so  much  more  remote,  that  the  interval  between  our 
sun  and  Sirius  may  be  but  a  fraction  of  tiiis  larj^n-r  ilistance.  To  rei,Mons  of  space 
of  this  hij^'lier  order  in  point  of  niaj^Miiuide,  we  may  i)n)l)ably  compare  such  an 
interval  of  time  as  that  whicii  tlivides  the  human  epocii  from  tlie  origin  of  th(!  coral- 
line limestone  over  which  the  Niaj^ara  is  precipitateil  at  the  l-'alls.  Many  have  been 
the  successive  revolutions  in  ori^^anic  life,  and  many  tlie  vicissitudes  in  the  physical 
geography  of  the  olobi-,  and  often  has  sea  been  converteil  into  land,  and  land  into 
sea,  since  that  rock  was  formed.  The  Alps,  the  Pyrenees,  the  Himalaya,  have  not 
only  begun  to  exist  as  lofiy  mountain  chains,  but  the  solid  materials  of  which  they 
are  composed  have  been  slowly  elaborated  beneath  tlie  sea  within  the  stupenilous 
interval  of  ages  here  alluded  to. 

The  geologist  may  musi'  ami  speculate;  on  thest-  events  until,  filletl  with  awe 
and  admiration,  he  forgets  the  presence  of  the  mighty  cataract  itsill,  and  no  longer 
sees  the  rapid  motion  of  its  waters,  nor  hears  their  sound,  as  they  fall  into  the  deep 
abyss.  But  whenever  his  thoughts  are  recalled  to  die  present,  the  tone  of  his  mind, 
— the  sensations  awakened  in  his  soul,  will  be  found  to  be  in  perfect  harmony  with 
the  grandeur  and  beauty  of  the  glorious  scent;  which  surnnmds  him. 


THE  DtVlL-^   HOLE. 


1S» 


'.I 


hi 


^1 


I»fI»T     HM)     FUTl'I^E, 


PHUFESSDR    TVN'IIAI.I. 


Wl",  II.WI'l  MOW  to  coiisidtT  llic  j^cncsis  ami  proximate  cli:stiny  of  llu:  Inills  of 
N'iai^ara.  W'v  m.iy  open  our  \va)'  to  this  subject  by  a  few  preliminary  remarks 
upon  erosion.  Time  i^nd  intensity  are  tin;  main  factors  of  j,M;olo<,McaI  chanj;e,  and 
lliry  are  in  a  certain  sense  convertible.  A  feeble  force  aclin}.j  throut,di  lonj^r  periods, 
and  an  intense  force  actin.t,^  tiirouijli  short  ones,  may  pHnliict!  approximately  the 
same  results.  'I'n  Dr.  I  looker  1  have  bc'i'n  indebted  for  some  samples  of  stones, 
the  tirst  examples  of  which  were  picked  up  by  Mr.  Hackworth  on  the  shori's  of 
I. yell's  Ha),  mar  Wellinj^fton,  in  .New  Zealand.  They  have  been  described  by  Mr. 
'I'ravers  in  the  Transactions  of  the  New  Zealand  Institute.  Unacquainted  with  their 
oriijin,  you  would  certainly  ascribe  their  forms  to  human  workmanship.  They 
resemble  flint  knives  and  spear-heails,  beinij  apparently  chiseled  off  into  faces  with 
as  much  attention  to  symmetry  as  if  a  tool  i^uided  by  human  intellij^-ence  had  passed 
over  them.  Hut  no  human  inslnnnent  has  been  brou^dit  to  bear  upon  these  stones, 
'i'lic)-  have  been  wrous;ht  into  their  present  shape  by  the  wind-blown  sand  of  Lyell's 
Hay.  Two  winds  are  dominant  h(Te.  and  they  in  succession  iirtjed  the  sand  atjainst 
opposite  sitles  of  the  stone;  ever)-  little  particle  of  sand  chipped  away  its  infinitesi- 
mal bit  of  stone,  and  in  the  end  sculptured  these  sinLfular  forms. 

r.Ki'Kcrs  OK  riiK  sand  iilast. 

The;  Sphinx  of  I'^,i,'ypt  is  nearly  covered  up  by  the  sand  of  the  desert.  The 
neck  of  the  Sphinx  is  partly  cut  across,  not,  as  I  am  assured  by  Mr.  Huxley,  by 
ordinary  wiatheriny;,  but  by  the  eroding  action  of  the  fine  sand  blown  against  it. 
In  these  cases  nature  furnishes  us  with  hints  which  may  be  taken  advantage  of  in 
.irt;  ami  this  action  o(  sand  has  recently  been  turned  to  extraordinary  account  in  the 
United  States.  When  in  Hoston,  I  was  taken  by  Mr.  Josiah  Ouincy  to  see  the 
action  of  the  S(t)id-l>/tisf.  A  kind  of  hopper  containing  fine  silicious  sand  was  con 
nected  with  a  reservoir  of  compressed  air,  the  pressure  being  variable  at  pleasure. 
The  hopper  ended  in  a  long  slit,  from  which  the  sand  was  blown.  A  plate  of  glass 
was  placed  beneath  this  slit,  and  caused  to  pass  slowly  under  it;  it  came  out.  perfectly 
depolished,  with  a  bright  opalescent  glimmer,  such  as  could  only  be  produced  by 
the  most  careful  grinding.  luery  little  particle  of  sand  urged  against  the  glass, 
h.iving  all  its  enirgy  concentrated  on  the  point  of  impact,  formed  there  a  little  pit,  the 
depolished  surface  consisting  of  innumerable  hollows  of  this  description.  Hut  this 
was  not  all.  H)-  protecting  certain  portions  of  the  surface  and  exposing  others, 
figures  and  tracery  of  any  re(juired  form  could  be  etched  upon  the  glass.  The 
figures  of  open  iron-work  could  thus  be  copied,  while  the  wire-gauze  placed  over 

140 


the  glass  pnuliiiid  ,i  rctii  uhitrd  |.,iitcrn.     Uiit  it  n(|uirr(|  nnsiiili  ri'sistiiiL;  Mihst.iiiir 
as  iron  to  slicker  llic  ,L,dass.      I  lie  patltrns  of  tlic  liiiist  lace  could   thus  lif  rc|iro 
(liicc<l;   the  delicate  lilaineiits  of  the  laci;  itself  olTeri  11,14-  ■'  siitTuieiU  i>role(lioii. 

All  tliesc;  effects  have  been  ohlaiiieil  with  a  simple  model  of  tlu'  sand  Mast 
il(;vised  for  nie  by  my  assistant.  A  fraction  of  a  niiiiiile  suffices  to  etch  upon  ,L;l.iss 
a  rich  and  beautiful  lace  pattern.  Any  jieldini^  substance  may  be  emplo)-ed  to 
protect  tin;  }.,dass.  \\y  immediately  iliffusin,L(  the  shock  of  the  partiile,  siu  h  sub 
stances  practically  destroy  the  local  erosive  power,  '{"lie  hand  can  bear  without 
inconvenience  a  sand-showtr  which  would  pulverize  glass,  luchings  e.\ecuted  on 
glass  with  suitable  kinds  of  ink  are  accurately  worked  out  by  the  sand-blast.  In 
fact,  within  certain  limits,  tht-  harder  the  surface,  the  greater  is  the  concentration  of 
the  shock,  and  the  more  ttffectual  is  tin;  erosion.  It  is  not  necessary  that  the  sand 
should  be  the  hardcT  substance  of  the  two;  corundum,  for  example,  is  much  harder 
than  ([uartz;  still,  (|uart/-sand  can  not  only  demolish,  but  actually  blow  a  hole  through 
a  plate;  of  corundum.  Nay,  glass  may  be  depolished  by  i\u:  impact  of  fme  shot;  the 
grains  in  this  cast;  bruising  the  glass  before  Uiey  liavi;  time  to  flatten  and  turn  their 
energy  into  heat. 

KKOSIVK    POWKK    OK    KIVF.KS. 

This  power  of  erosion,  so  strikingly  displayetl  when  sand  is  urged  by  air, 
renders  us  better  able  to  conc(Mve  its  action  wh(.'n  urgc^d  by  water.  Th(r  (Tosive 
power  of  a  river  is  vastly  augmented  by  the  solid  matter  carried  along  witli  it. 
Sand  or  pebbles  caught  in  a  river  vortex  can  wear  away  the  hardest  rock;  "pot- 
holes" and  deep  cylindrical  shafts  being  thus  produced.  An  extraordinary  instance 
of  this  kind  of  erosion  is  to  be  seen  in  the  Val  Tournanche,  above;  the  village  of  this 
name.  The  gorge  at  Handeck  has  been  thus  cut  out.  Such  waterfalls  wc-re  once 
frequent  in  the  valleys  of  Switzerland;  for  hardl)'  an}'  vallc;y  is  without  one  or  more 
transverse  barriers  of  resisting  material,  over  which  the  river  llowing  through  the 
valley  once  fell  as  a  cataract.  Near  Pontresina  in  the  Mngadin,  there  is  such  a  case, 
the  hard  gneiss  being  now  worn  away  to  form  a  gorge  through  which  die  river  from 
the  Morteratsch  glacier  rushes.  The  barrier  of  the  Kirchet  above  Meyringen  is  als(j 
a  case  in  point.  Behind  it  was  a  lake,  derived  from  the  glacier  of  th<;  Aar,  and  over 
the  barrier  the  lake  poured  its  excess  of  water.  Here  the  rock  being  limctstone  was 
in  great  part  dissolved,  but  added  to  this  we  had  the  action  of  the  solid  particles 
carried  along  by  the  water,  each  of  which,  as  it  struck  the  rock,  chipped  it  away  like 
the  particles  of  the  sand-blast.  Thus  by  solution  and  mechanical  erosion  the  great 
chasm  of  the  Fensteraar-Schlucht  was  formed.  It  is  demonstrable  diat  the  water 
which  flows  at  the  bottom  of  such  deep  fissures  once  flowed  at  the  level  of  what  is 
now  their  edges,  and  tumbled  down  the  lower  faces  of  the  barriers.  Almost  every 
valley  in  Switzerland  furnishes  examples  of  this  kind;  the  untenable  hypothesis  of 
earthquakes,  once  so  readily  resorted  in  accounting  for  these  gorges,  being  now  for 

X41 


i 

m 


,  I    1 


.,.--■ 


#1 


Ik 


r 


i  <i  1 
'■  ii   f 

I      :  Kl  "1, 


\ 


llic  iiiiisi  |i,nt  ali.iiiiliini  i|.      I'd  |ini(|iiir  tlir  ('.iiindu^  (»f  Western  America  tio  (Ulicr 
taiise  is  needed  iji.m  ilie  inte;4r,iii()n  of  i  Hi  its  individually  inlinilt;simal. 

Mill, IN     AM'     l'Kii(,l;l'->    111       nil      I   AlAKAl    r. 

And  ni>\\  we  ((Hill  id  \i,i'.;.ir.i.  Sodii  .iller  I  .iir(>|ie,(ns  liad  taken  possfssioii  of 
the  I  dimtiv ,  tin  I  diu  ii  linn  a|i|ii  ,iis  to  have  arisen  th.il  the  det  |)  channel  of  the  riv(!r 
Niaj^aiM  Ik  low  the  l.iils  li.ul  Ihiii  exiavated  liy  the  calarai  t.  In  Mr.  HakfWcU's 
"  Intidihu  lidii  td  ( leoldv^y, "  tin  |)n\aleiii  i-  oi'  this  helief  has  heen  referred  to;  il  is 
e\|)nssed  thus  l.y  i'rdl.  |dsi  |,h  Iliiir\  in  the  Tiaiisartidns  of  the  Albany  Institute: 
"In  \  lew  in-  the  |idsiiidii  dl  the  Tails  and  the  leatiires  of  the  country  round,  it  is  iin- 
pdssihle  not  td  he  im|)ressed  with  tiie  idea  lh.it  this  i^reat  natural  raceway  has  Itccn 
fdriited  \>y  the  contiinied  ai  tion  of  tln'  irnsistihle  Niai^ara,  and  that  the  falls,  l)cj,rin- 
nini;  ai  l.ewiston,  liave,  in  tlie  (ourse  of  aL^is,  worn  hack  the  rocky  strata  to  their 
present  site."  Tile  same  view  is  advocated  hy  Sir  Charles  Lyell,  hy  Mr.  Hall, 
li\  M.  .Ai^assi/,  l>)  I'rol.  kamsa\,  indeed  \>y  almost  all  of  those  who  havt;  inspected 
the  pla(('. 

;\  I onnected  imaL;c  of  the  orii^dn  and  protjress  of  th<'  cataract  is  easily  obtained. 
Walking  nortliwanl  from  the  vilkiLje  of  Niai^^ara  I'ails  bj-  tlie  sidi;  of  the  river,  we 
have  to  our  left  the  deep  and  ( omparalivc.'ly  narrow  j^or.L^t'  throuj^di  which  the  Nia^-ara 
tlows,  'i'he  boiMulinL,^  dills  of  this  i,'or},a'  are  from  300  to  ;,5(")  feet  hi,i,di.  We  reach 
the  whirlpool,  trend  to  the  northeast,  and  after  a  little  time  i^radiially  resume  our 
northward  course.  Mnall)',  at  a  about  seven  miles  from  the  present  l""alls,  wc  come 
to  the  eils^f  of  a  declivit)  whidi  informs  us  that  we  have  been  hitherto  walking  on 
table  land.  Soini'  hundreds  of  feet  below  us  is  a  com|)aratively  level  plain,  which 
stretches  to  Lake  Ontario.  The  declivit)'  marks  the  end  of  the  precijjitous  L(orj,f(!  of 
the  Niaj,rara.  Hire  the  ri\fr  escajjes  from  its  steep  mural  boundaries,  and  in  a 
widened  bed  pursues  its  way  to  thi'  lake  which  finally  receives  its  waters. 

IN     rill'.    I'AsI, 

The  fact  that  in  historic  limes,  even  within  the  memory  of  man,  the  fall  has 
sensibi)-  recetletl,  prompts  the  (|uestion,  how  far  has  recession  j^^one.''  At  what  point 
did  tile  led<.je  which  thus  continually  creeps  backwards  bct,nn  its  retrograde  course? 
lo  minds  disciplined  in  such  researches  the  aiiswi:r  has  becMi  and  will  be,  at  the 
|)recipitous  declivit)  which  crosseil  the  Niagara  from  Lewiston  on  the  American  to 
Oueenston  on  the  Canadian  side.  Over  this  transverse  barrier  the  united  affluents 
of  all  the  u|)per  lakis  once  poured  their  waters,  and  here  the  work  of  erosion  began. 
The  tiam,  moreover,  was  di'monstrably  of  sutiticient  height  to  cause  the  river  above  it 
to  submerge  doat  Ishuul  ;  and  this  would  perfectly  account  for  the  finding  by  Mr. 
I  lall.  Sir  Charles  Lyell,  and  others,  in  die  sand  and  gravel  of  the  island,  the  same 
Ihiviatile  shells  as  ari;  now  found  in  the  Niagara  river  higher  up.  It  would  also 
account  for  those    deposits    along  the  sides  of  the  river,  the  discovery  of  which 

142 


cnahlfd   l.yill,  iiall,  and   K. unsay  to  rcdiii-c  tn  dininnstalinn  tlic  |ii)|iiilar  Ixlii  T  tli.it 
tlu!  N'iaj,Mra  once  llowiil  tliroHLjIi  a  sliallow  valley. 

Tht!  physics  ol  ilii:  piohlcin  of  cxcavalion,  \\lii(li  I  niadf  clear  to  in)-  mind 
JK'fori:  (iiiitlinj,'  Niaj^'ara,  art;  revealed  !))■  a  close  inspection  ol"  tlie  prr-,eni  Horse 
SIkh:  l-'all.  lien:  we  sec  evidently  that  the  j^reatesl  \v<'ii;ht  of  w.iler  hemls  o\«r  the 
very  apex  of  tlu:  Horse-Shoe.  In  a  passaj.u:  in  his  excellent  ch.ipter  on  NiaL;ara 
l'"alls,  Mr.  Hall  alludes  to  this  fact.  Here  we  iiavc  tlw  most  copious  .\\u\  the  most 
violent  whirlinjr  of  tlu;  shattereil  li<|iiid;  here  the  nuist  powerful  eddies  recoil 
aj^Minst  the  shall-.  I'roni  this  portion  of  the  fall,  intlei:d,  tlu;  spray  souulinu's  rises 
without  solution  of  continuitj'  to  the  re),don  of  tlu;  clouds,  hecomini,'  )^n-adually  nuire 
attenuated,  and  passintj  linally  throu;;h  tlu;  condition  of  true  cloud  into  invisihle 
vai)or,  which  is  sonu'tinu's  rcprecipitateil  hi).rher  up.  .All  tlu;  phenomen.i  point 
distinctly  to  the  cc;ntrt;  of  the  river  .1  ilu;  place  of  j;reatest  mechanical  (;nerj,fy,  and 
from  the  centre  the  vigor  of  tlu;  i-all  },n-adually  tlies  awa)'  towards  the  sides.  The 
lu)rs(;-shoe  form,  with  tlu;  concavity  facing"-  downwards,  is  an  obvious  and  necessary 
c()nse(|uence  of  this  action.  Ri.<,dit  alontf  tlu:  middle  of  the  river  tlu;  apex  of  the 
curve  pushes  its  way  backwards,  cultinj;  aloni,'  the  ct'Utre  a  deep  and  comparatively 
narrow  groove,  and  drainini,^  the  sides  as  it  passis  them.  Hence  the  remarkaljle 
discrepancy  betwec;n  the  widths  of  tlu;  i\ia,i,^ara  above  and  below  tlu;  Horse-Shoe. 
All  alonjr  its  course,  from  Lewiston  lleii.,dns  to  its  present  position,  the  form  of  the 
I'M  was  probably  that  of  a  horse-shoe,  for  this  is  liurelj  the  expression  of  the 
greater  depth,  and  consetjuently  greater  excavating  power,  of  the  centre  of  the 
river.  The  gorge,  nu)reover,  varies  in  witlth  as  the  depth  of  the  centre  of  the  ancient 
river  varied,  being  narrowest  where,  that  depth  was  greatist. 

KUoSUl-;    I'dWKK    OK    rilK    HoKSK-.slloK    lAl.l.. 

The  vast  comparative  erosive  energy  of  the  llorse-Shoe  I*"all,  comes  strikingly 
into  view  when  it  and  the  American  I'all  are  compari'd  together.  Tlu:  American 
branch  of  the  upper  river  is  cut  at  a  right  angle  b)-  the  gorge  of  tlu;  Niagara.  Here 
the  Horse-Shoe  Fall  was  the  real  excavator.  It  cut  the  rock  and  formed  the  preci- 
pice over  which  the  American  I'"all  lund)les.  lUit  since  its  formation,  the  erosive 
action  of  the  American  Fall  has  been  almost  nil,  while  the  I  lorse-Shoe  has  cut  its  way 
for  five  hundred  yards  across  the  end  of  Goat  Island,  and  is  doubling  back  to  excavate 
a  channel  parallel  to  the  length  of  the  island.  This  point,  I  have  just  learned,  has 
not  escaped  the  acute  observation  of  Prof.  Ramsay,  whose  words  are;  —"Where  tlu; 
body  of  water  is  small  in  the  American  I"all.  die  etlge  has  only  receded  a  few  yards 
(where  most  eroded)  during  the  time  that  tlu;  Canadian  F'all  has  receded  from  the 
north  corner  of  Goat  Island  to  the  inner-most  curve  of  the  Horse  Shoe  Fall."  The 
river  bends;  the  Horse-Shoe  immediately  accoitimodates  itself  to  the  bending,  and 
will  follow  implicitly  the  direction  of  the  deepest  water  in  the  upper  stream.  The 
flexibility  of  the  gorge,  if  I  may  use  the  term,  is  determined  by  the  flexibility  of  the 

143 


:"'*  ' 


river  ( li.iiiml  .ilimc  it.  W'l  ri'  the  Ni;iL,Mr;i  .ihovc  tlif  I'all  simioiis,  the  ^cir^i:  would 
ohctliciuiy  fdliow  its  sinuosiMts.  ( )ii((-  siii^i^fslcd,  no  lioiihl  _s,n'o<rra|)hcTS  will  be 
,il)if  to  |niiin  out  m;iiiy  t'x.im|)l<s  of  this  action.  IIk"  Zambesi  is  thoii<,dit  to  present 
a  1,'reat  tlitVieiiUy  to  the  erosion  theory,  bei  ause  of  the  sinuosity  of  the  chasm  below 
till-  Victoria  I'alls.  Mut  assuniiui^Mhe  basalt  to  b(;  of  toieralily  uniform  texture,  had 
the  river  bein  examined  before  tiie  formation  of  this  sinuous  chann<'l,  the  present 
/iir/ai,M'ourse  of  the  L(ori,re  below  the  Kali  could,  I  am  jjersuaded,  have  l)e(;n  predicted 
while  the  sounding,''  of  the  jiresent  river  would  enable  us  to  predict  the  course  to  be 
pursni'd  b)-  the  erosion  in  the  lulure. 

Hut  not  only  has  the  \iai,Mra  river  cut  the  .L,^ori;e;  it  has  carried  away  the  chips 
of  its  own  workshop.  The  shah;  beintj  probably  crumpled  is  easily  carri(;d  away.  Hut 
at  the  bas«;  of  die  fall  we  find  the  hw^v  boulders  already  tlescribed,  and  by  some 
mians  or  other  these  are  removed  down  tin;  river.  The  ice  which  fills  the  Jjorjje  in 
winter,  and  which  Lfrapplis  with  the  boulders,  has  been  regarded  as  the  transporting 
agent.  I'robaI)ly  it  is  so  to  some  (!.\tent.  Hut  (irosion  acts  without  ceasing  on  the 
abutting  points  of  the  boulders,  thus  withdrawing  dieir  support  and  urging  them 
graihi.illy  down  the  river.  Solution  also  does  its  portion  of  the  work.  That  solid 
matter  is  carried  down  is  proved  by  the  difference  of  depth  between  the  Niagara 
river  and  Lake  Ontario,  where  the  river  enters  it.  The  depth  falls  from  seventy-two 
feel  to  twenty  feet,  in  conseepience  of  the  deposition  of  solid  matter  caused  by  the 
diminished  motion  of  the  river. 

riiK  i-iTi  Ki:. 
n  conclusion,  \\v  may  say  a  word  regarding  the  proximate  future  of  Niagara. 
At  the  rate  of  excavation  assigned  to  it  by  Sir  Charles  Lyell,  namely,  a  foot  a  year, 
five  thousand  years  or  so  will  carry  the  Horse-Shoe  I'all  far  higher  than  Goat  Island. 
As  the  gorge  recedes  it  will  drain,  as  it  has  hitherto  done,  the  banks  right  and  left  of 
it,  thus  leaving  a  nearly  level  terrace  betwc-en  Goat  Island  and  the  edge  of  the  gorge. 
Higher  up  it  will  totally  drain  the  American  branch  of  the;  river;  the  channel  of 
which  in  due  time  will  beconu'  cultivable  laml.  The  American  I-'all  will  then  be 
transformed  into  a  dry  precipice,  forming  a  simple  continuation  of  the  cliffy  boundary 
of  the  Niagara.  /\t  the  place  occupied  by  the  fall  at  this  moment  we  shall  have  the 
gorge  enclosing  i  right  angle,  a  second  whirlpool  being  the  consequence  of  this.  To 
those  who  visit  Niagara  a  few  millenniums  hence  I  leave  the  verification  of  this 
prediction.  All  that  can  be  said  is.  that  if  the  causes  now  in  action  continue  to  act, 
it  will  prove  itself  literally  true. 


lii 


li 


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: .  f.  r^ 

II 

4 


Klf' 


^ii 


GI^pTUITOUS   pSSEI^TIONS. 


M  ,     U  LJ  N  L  A  N  . 


/>r  HE  I'ALLS  of  Xiatrara  arc  anionic  those  phenomena  in  the  external  world, 
^2^      from  which  speculatists  have  sjnm  a  cobweb  theory  of  the  earth,  proving  or 
intended  to  prove 

"That  Ilo   who  iimile  it,  mid  icvenloil  its  duU- 
To  Miisos,  wiia  mistaken  in  its  iiiji'." 

There  is  every  reason  to  believe  from  the  aspect  of  the  banks,  and  the  character  of 
the  siirroimding  country  above  and  below  the  Tails,  that  the  river  has  at  some  former 
period  scooped  out  the  channel,  through  the  soliil  limestone,  from  Queenston,  about 
seven  miles  below,  to  the  position  of  tlie  cataracts.  Below  Queenston,  the  ground 
on  both  sides  of  the  river  is  ver)  nearly  of  the  same  level  with  the  banks  of  lake 
Ontario,  but  at  that  town  it  rises  with  a  sudden  and  steep  slope  crossing  the  river  at 
right  angles  to  its  channel,  and  continuing  gradually  to  increase  in  elevation,  till  it 
attains  to  the  iicight  of  lake  Erie.  At  Queenston  the  inner  surface  of  the  banks  first 
becomes  precipitous  and  broken;  and  mineralogists  of  whose  accuracy  and  fidelity 
tluT(!  can  be  no  doubt,  have  ascertained,  by  minute  inspection,  that  the  strata,  (lime- 
stone above,  and  sandstone  below,  with  forty  feet  interposing  of  exceedingly  friable 
slate,)  on  the  opposite  sides  of  the  river  correspond  exactly  with  each  other,  and 
scarcely  vary  to  the  situation  of  the  present  I'alls.  I'Vom  these  premises  it  has  been 
concluded,  that  the;  watirs  of  the  Niagara  formerly  ran  down  the  face  of  the  heights 
of  Queenston, — that  the  rocky  material  at  last  ga\  e  way  under  the  continued  attrition, 
and  that  the  cataract  gradually  worked  its  way  backward,  till  it  separated  into  two 
at  the  present  jjosition.  Not  only  so,  but  that  this  process  has  continued  with  the 
most  unvarying  regularity,  accomplishing  very  nearly  the  same  number  of  inches  in 
tlu;  same  sjjace  of  time.  This  backward  motion  however,  if  any  such  there  be,  is  at 
present  amazingly  slow,  anil  it  is  therefore  decided,  widi  unhesitating  certainty  and 
coolness,  that  tin-  world  must  have  existed,  and  the  waters  of  the  Niagara  have  been 
at  work,  for  a  much  larger  period  than  six  thousand  years. 

With  the  same  facility  of  hjpothesis  and  assertion,  they  have  decided  upon  its 
future  as  easily  as  upon  its  past  operations.  It  is  inevitably  certain,  we  are  assured, 
that  it  will  grailually  saw  its  way  twenty  miles  farther  and  drain  lake  Erie,  and  going 
backward  three  hundred  miles,  take  up  its  temjiorary  residence  below  Detroit.  It  is 
needli'ss  f«)r  us  at  present  to  pursue  it  any  farther. 

liut  if  we  grant,  that  there  was  a  time  when  the  water  from  lake  Erie  first  made 
a  breach  in  Queenston  heights,  these  theorists  cannot  refuse,  that  there  must  have 

no 


been  a  previous  time  when  no  breach  as  yet  existed.  If  so,  where  then  was  the 
outlet  of  lake  Erie?  Ry  what  channel  did  the  waters  of  the  great  chain  of  western 
lakes,  above  Ontario,  find  a  passage  to  the  ocean?  If  tliese  lakes  did  not  then  exist, 
and  if  they  and  their  oudet  were  the  simultaneous  result  of  some  mighty  terraqueous 
convulsion,  may  it  not  be  as  reasonably  concluded  that  the  whole  channel  of  the. 
Niagara,  from  the  present  Talis  to  Queenston,  was  ploughed  out  by  the  same  revo- 
lutionizing struggle— and  that  in  place  of  bt.-ing  the  operation  of  thousands  f)f  years, 
it  may  have  been  the  work  of  a  month  or  perhaps  of  a  day?  Upon  this  supposition 
it  is  not  difficult  to  account  for  the  present  position  of  the  Falls;  below  them  the 
channel  is  comparatively  narrow  and  confined,  and  the  current  must  have  raged,  as 
indeed  it  still  does,  with  much  more  fury  and  effect  than  where  it  is  less  pent  up. 
At  the  I'^alls  it  is  divided  b)-  an  island  into  two  arms,  each  wid(;r  than  the  channel 
below;  and  farther  up  it  is  diffused  over  a  still  more  ample  surface,  peacefully  winding 
round  islands  of  various  sizes,  or  smoothly  expanding  into  a  kind  of  bay.  Within 
the  semicircular  outline  also  of  the  pres<Mit  Falls,  a  kind  of  basin  is  embraced,  in 
which  the  water  foams  and  whirls  in  great  agitation,  but  in  which  it  has  space  to 
subside  into  smoothness  before  breaking  on  the  bank;  and  it  is  comparatively  tran- 
quil at  a  short  distance  below. 

In  a  word,  the  assertions  which  hav(!  been  made  respecting  the  gradual  retro- 
cession of  the  Falls,  seem  to  bt;  altogt^ther  gratuitous.  It  is  possible  that  some 
partial  change  may  take  place  in  the  outline  of  the  great  ball;  some  piece  of  rock 
may  give  way,  as  was  the  case;  in  the  bank  below,  but  there  seems  not  the  slighttist 
reason  to  believe,  either  that  the  change  has  hitherto  been  incessant  and  gradual,  or 
that  it  will  hereafter  be  so.  The  earliest  accounts  which  wi;re  given  of  them  by 
European  writers  are  obviously  and  grossly  fabulous,  describing  them  as  seven  or 
eight  hundred  feet  high,  and  a  mile  and  a  half  broad;  but  the  first  which  were 
at  all  authentic  correspond  remarkably,  at  the  distance  of  a  century,  widi  the  present 
aspect  of  the  cataracts. 

The  measurement  of  the  Falls  has  been  variously  stated.  The  Horse-Shoe 
Fall  may  be  stated  at  about  150  feet  in  height;  its  width  can  only  be  approximated, 
but  following  the  curve  it  is  generally  estimated  at  about  2,000  feet.  However,  it 
has  but  a  remote  resemblance  to  that  which  gives  it  its  name;  it  forms  an  irregular 
segment  of  a  circle,  with  a  very  deep  angular  gash  ni-ar  the  center.  In  this  gap  the 
water  glides  over  the  edge  of  the  rock  with  most  crystalline  smoothness,  while  at 
either  extremity  it  breaks  into  snow-white  foam  at  the  very  edge.  The  American 
Fall  is  about  i.ioo  feet  in  extreme  width.  Its  height  is  165  feet.  The  brow  of 
Goat  Island  is  about  980  feet  in  breatlth.  The  whole  extcmt  therefore  of  the  concave, 
from  the  farther  extremity  of  the  American  I'all  to  the  Table  Rock,  following  the 
line  of  the  cataracts  is.  according  to  this  calculation,  \ery  nearl)'  4,000  feet. 


•t-i! 


X47 


■^■^■^■^w" 


''S'^V' 


Tl 


H0PSE-8H0E   TALLS   FFOM   TMf   rrWRY    rOA», 


P   BOLD   SWIM. 


i 

H 


'i 


Car-'aln  Webb's  Hazardaus  FEat, 


'--•^■'^  ASH  IS  THM  man  who  incurs  risk  or  hazard  from 
..-.a  mere  impulse  without  countins^  the  cost;  adventur- 
-^^'  ous  is  he  who  does  it  from  a  love  of  the  arduous  and 
tiie  bold;  foolhardy  he  who  throws  himself  into  danger 
in  disregard  or  defiance  of  the  consequences.  These 
cjualifications  of  the  mad  attempt  made  by  Captain 
Matthew  Webb  to  swim  down  the  Whirlpool  Rapids 
.  and  through  the  Whirlpool,  on  the  24th  day  of  July, 
1883,  are  certainly,  in  view  of  the  facts,  not  too  severe 
strictures.  Moved  by  a  desire  for  notoriet)',  this  bold 
and  brave  athlete,  who  had  many  times  faced  the  surging 
billows  of  an  angry  sea,  without  other  means  of  safety 
than  nature  had  provided  him,  announced  his  purpose  to  swim 
the  Whirlpool  Rapids  in  the  Niagara  River.  This  was  heralded 
by  the  press,  and  discussions  as  to  the  possibilities  and  chances  of  success  agitated 
many  minds.  Captain  Webb  looked  upon  the  scheme  as  a  pleasant  undertaking. 
His  friends  and  the  public  looked  upon  it  as  certain  death.  The  great  swimmer 
was  confident  that  he  could  make  the  trip  in  safety.  He  carefully  looked  over  the 
ground,  but  he  had  failed  to  realize  the  immensity  of  the  undertaking,  and  so 
deliberately  gave  up  his  life. 

Captain  Webb  was  a  native  of  Shropshire,  England,  anil  the  son  of  a  physician. 
He  went  to  sea  at  an  early  age,  and  became  the  captain  of  a  merchantman.  He 
first  attracted  public  notice  by  jumping  from  the  Cunard  mail  steamer  "  Russia." 
during  a  storm,  to  save  a  sailor  who  fell  overboard.  For  this  he  received  at  the; 
hands  of  the  Duke  of  Edinburgh  the  first  gold  medal  given  by  the  Royal  I  lumane 
Society.  In  1875  he  accomplished  his  greatest  feat,  swimming  across  the  English 
Channel  from  Dover  to  Calais.  The  trial  took  place  August  24th  and  25th,  and 
after  a  desperate  struggle  with  the  choppy  sea  he  accomplished  the  distance  of 
twenty-five  miles  in  2ih.  45min.,  the  best  time  on  record.  He  has  visited  this 
country  several  times.  On  August  13th,  1879,  he  swam  from  Sandy  Hook  to  Man- 
hattan Beach,  Coney  Island,  a  distance  in  line  of  ten  miles.  Owing  to  the  tides  and 
the  fact  that  his  contract  would  not  permit  him  to  land  at  the  island  before  five  i".  m., 
he  was  in  the  water  eight  hours  and  swam  in  all  about  sixteen  miles.     He  was  a 

MO 


%\ 

I 


ill 


M 


!  i^n 


man  of  powciliil  |)li)si(iiic,  \)nn'^  six  ftet  out;  iiidi  tall,  fiiuly  projjortioncil  ami 
\vi-ij,'hiiij^  about  two  luiiulrcd  pounds  in  conilition.  Ili-  was  forty  years  of  age.  He 
leaves  a  wife  and  two  children.     He  has  aecunnilated  515,000  by  his  exhibitions. 

For  three-(|iiarlers  of  a  mile  below  the  Suspension  Bridge  run  the  Whirlpool 
Ka|)ids,  the  wildtst  and  most  tumultuous  i)ortion  of  the  river  \iagara.  The 
tremendous  power  of  the  current  cannot  be  realized.  The  whole  force  of  the  water 
concentrates  itself  here;  it  seems  as  though  it  would  tear  asunder  the  steep,  wooded 

hills  that  enclose  it.  so  _^^_^^-i ^™   the  river,  where  the 

water,    ceaselessly 


w  ild  and  startling  is  its 
tiirrific  power.  As  far 
as  the  eye  can  reach 
the  waters  thunder 
down  in  seething.heav- 
ing  masses,  lashed  into 
foam,  dashing  ami 
whirling  into  angry 
bill  ows  twen  t  y  or 
thirty  feet  high, 
through  the  narrow 
passes  of  the  gorge, 
until  it  reaches  its 
climax  at  the  bend  in 


coming  down  from 
the  Falls  in  immense 
volume,  is  compressed 
into  a  space  much  too 
small  for  it,  and  meet- 
ing with  this  resist- 
ance, gathers  its 
mighty  force  in  one  su- 
p  r  e  me  e  (To  r  t,  and 
mounting  higher  and 
higher,  dashes  past  the 
bend  in  one  continuous 
but  changing  surge  of 


water,  resembling  nothing  so  much  as  the  roll  of  the  ocean  on  a  lea  shore.  One 
hundred  million  tons  of  water  passing  over  the  Falls' cliff  every  hour,  crowd  through 
this  narrow  defile,  less  than  three  hundred  feet  in  width,  thundering  along  at  a 
velocity  of  twenty-seven  miles  an  hour.  At  no  odier  point  does  the  terrific  force 
of  Niagara  so  create  wond«Tfully  realistic  impressions  upon  the?  beholder. 


I^EKE   THK  liPiiK  valley  i-rooks.  and  tlii'  lllxlit  of  tlio  rivi'r  is  bmki'n; 
lli'iullmiK  it   |>liiii);i'r<.  ili's|>aii'iiiK,  Hiiil  liciits  on  the  liars  of  its  princiii; 
Hi'ats,  and  runs  wildly  from  wall  to  wall,  tlifn  strives  to  rci'over, 
Hi'Uls  oil  aiiollier  still,  and  around  the  <-ii'i-lo  is  ciiiTled, 
.loslled  fiiiiii  shoulder  to  shouliler.  till  losiuK  Us  giillopiliK  motion. 
Dizzily  round  il  swirls,  and  is  di'ag>;iMl  toward  the  hiileous  Whirl|iool. 

liound  sweeps  the  liorrible   luaelstroin,  ami  into  tho  whirl  of  its  vortex 

Cin'lo  a  hroken  houl,  tin  oar-hlade,  things  without  number; 

Striving,  they  shove  one  another,  ami  seem  to  hurry,  im|iutient 

To  measure  the  shadowy  will-be.  and  seek  from  their  torinont  a  resiiiie. 

Logs  that  have  leapt  the  Kails  and  swum  iiiisi^lmi  'iieath  the  current. 
Here  are  restored  again,  and  weird  is  tlieir  resurri>etioii; 
Here  like  straws  lliey  are  snapt.  and  grimling  like  millstones  togetlier. 
("hating  ami  splintering  their  mates,  they  wade  in  their  deepening  ruins; 

Till,  without  hope,  on  tipli>e  they  rise,  lips  .shiiveU'd  and  speecldess. 
Seeing  sure  fate  bi'fore  them  that  tightens  its  toils  to  ensnare  them; 
HoUow  the  hellhole  gapes,  and  ravenously  it  roeeives  them, — 
.\ll  that  is  left  is  a  sigh,  and  the  eolioes  of  that  are  soon  slriuigled. 

— Hiiiifihluii'D  Kiiniitia. 
160 


Such  was  the  course  selected  by  the  plucky  and  resolute  sailor  for  his  exhibition 
of  power  and  endurance— throuj^di  a  fearful  channel,  an  eti^rnal  war  of  waters. 
From  a  boat  rowed  to  the  center  of  the  stream,  at  a  point  about  one-quarter  mih; 
from  the  head  of  the  rapids,  Captain  Webb  dived  heail  first  into  the  water.  It  was 
just  twenty  minutes  past  four  o'clock.  A  few  vigorous  strokes  and  he  was  fairly  in 
the  rapids,  going  brc-ast  on,  his  form  a  mere  speck,  as  seen  from  the  great  bluff 
above.  He  went  like;  an  arrow  shot  from  a  bow.  The  first  great  wave  he  struck 
he  went  under,  but  in  a  second  appeared  way  beyond.  The  great  waves  seethed  over 
him  occasionally,  but  he  always  seemed  ready  to  meet  them.  His  great  chest  was 
boldly  pushed  forward,  and  occasionally  half  of  the  magnificent  physique  of  tiie  reck- 
less adventurer  was  lifted  from  the  water,  but  he  bravely  kept  his  position  through 
it  all  and  seemed  perfectly  collected  and  at  home.  So  the  mad  journey  went  on 
safely  through  the  upper  rapids.     He  passed  then  through  the  lower  ones.     There 


the  waves  dash  higher, 
the  water  is  confined  in 
a  narrower  space,  and 
the  trip  is  in  evt;ry  way 
more  perilous.  How  far 
he  went  alive  no  one 
will  ever  know.  He  was 
seen  by  m a n y  w h i  1  e 
passing  through  this 
awful  sea.  His  body 
was  borne  onward,  now- 
rising  above,  now  sink- 
ing beneath  the  white- 
capped  waves.  He  was 
seen  to  enter  the  whirl- 
pool.      Here  he  threw 


L. 


^  up  one  of  his  arms,  as 

if  to  signal  some  unfor- 
seen  danger.     A  second 
I  later  he  was  buried  in 
i   the  foaming  billows, 
i  which  dash    upwards 
'  forty  or   fifty  feet,  and 
I  whirl   and  seethe   as   if 
i   lashed  by  a  thousand 
furies.       This    was   the 
last  seen  of  the  intrepid 
I  swimmer,  —  his  disap- 
I  pearance  occurring  thir- 
teen minutes  after  he 
entered  the  wat(;r.     An 
J  active  search  was  insti- 


tuted but  no  trace  of  his  body  had  been  found  when  the  shades  of  night  enveloped 
the  troubled  waters  in  a  mantle  of  darkness. 

During  the  afternoon  of  July  28th,  the  body  was  recovered  in  the  river  below 
Lewiston.  The  arms  were  extended  as  though  in  the  act  of  taking  a  swimming 
stroke,  and  the  feet  were  likewise  extended  as  though  in  the  act  of  swimming.  The 
scalp  had  a  deep  gash  about  four  inches  long,  and  the  hips  and  left  shoulder  had  long 
blue  marks  where  the  body  had  struck  the  rocks. 

Theories  as  to  the  direct  cause  of  death  are  rife.  Was  the  life  crushed  out  of 
him  by  the  weight  of  the  water;  was  he  drowned;  or  did  he  loose  his  life  by  diving 
and  striking  on  a  jagged  stone  or  rock.-"  These  are  questions  surrounded  with 
inscrutable  mystery. 


i.-.i 


; 


'd 


rii 


in 

•i  ■ 

IT: 


II 


A 


<^  I 


i':,. 


f    \« 


Tlir  ()tti(  ill  n  port,  of  llic  lupilical  cxaniiiicrs,  at  the  iiKiucsl  licid  over  the  noted 
swiinim.r  s  n mains,  states  that  no  bones  were  found  broken,  and  the  wounds  were 
nuni:  nf  th<  in  sutViti<nt  to  liavc  caused  death.  The  muscular  tissue  was  pecuHar; 
when  th<'  scalpel  was  used  shreds  of  desiccated  muscU;  would  be  carried  alonj,'  and 
(olUct  on  the  eili^a:  of  the  knife.  The  blood  was  very  red,  showing  that  it  had  not 
be(  11  ileoxidizeil  ijy  asphyxia.  ".As  the  result  of  our  examination,"  say  the  examiners, 
"we  art'  led  to  the  conclusion  that  death  was  caused  not  by  asphyxia  or  drowning, 
or  by  any  local  injury  by  the  body  coming  in  contact  with  any  hard  substance;,  but 
b_\-  the  shock  from  the  reactionary  force  of  the  water  in  the  rapids  coming  in  contact 
with  the  submerged  body  with  sufficient  force  to  instantly  destroy  the  respiratory 
power,  and  in  fact  all  vital  action,  by  direct  pressure  and  force  of  contact — a  shock 
«»f  sufficient  intensity  to  paralyze  the  nerve  centres,  partially  desiccate  the  muscular 
tissues,  and  forestall  any  possible  secjuel  of  death  by  drowning.  The  cause  of  dt^ath 
in  passing  through  the  ra|)ids  being  thus  constant  and  in  no  way  accidental,  as  might 
be  the  case  in  drowning,  forces  the  conclusion  that  no  living  body  can  pass  through 
the  rapids  alive.  In  the  first  breaker  he  was  submerged  and  subjected  to  this 
|)ressure,  iK.-alh  resulting." 

This  strongly  sustains  the  first  theory,  and  the  appearance  of  the  blood  dispels 
entirely  the  second  one,  that  of  drowning.  As  to  the  third,  its  supporters  claim  un- 
disputalile  ivitlence  in  llu;  disclosure  of  a  new  fact,  it  has  been  generally  conceded 
that  the  water  from  the;  halls  to  the  Whirlpool  was  very  deep,  and  that  no  rocks  were 
within  many  feet  of  the  surface.  This  is  contradicted  by  George  Barker,  who  for 
twenty  years  has  bt;en  taking  views  of  the  river  and  of  the  Falls.  He  says:  "One 
morning  a  few  years  ago  1  visited  the  Whirlpool  Rapids  for  the  purpose  of  taking 
some  instantaneous  photograjihs.  The  water  was  very  low,  caused  by  a  heavy  wind 
which  had  been  blowing  up  the  river  above  the  Falls  for  several  da}s.  I  was  sur- 
prised to  find  that  the  |)oints  where  usually  were  to  be  seen  immense  splashes,  which 
are  the  i^reat  attractions  of  tin-  Whirlpool  Rapids,  rocks  were  plainly  to  be  seen, 
at  some  points  just  at  the  surface,  at  others  rising  out  of  the  water  two  or  three  ieet. 
Several  nigativis  taken  at  the  time,  show  immense  rocks  lying  right  in  the  course 
which  Webb  took  in  his  fatal  attempt.  The  views  show  beyond  a  doubt  that  the 
rapiils  of  the  Niagara  river  are  studded  with  rocks,  and  the  post  mortem  examiners 
may  be  wrong  in  their  conclusions." 

This  attemjjt  of  Captain  Webb,  although  a  failure,  has  brought  to  the  front, 
numerous  bold  adventurers  with  unheard  of  schemes,  such  as  descend  the  Falls,  scale 
the  mountains  of  falling  waters,  dive  into  the  Whirlpool,  walk  across  the  upper  rapids, 
etc,  w  hich,  if  carried  into  effect,  will  add  new  zest  and  spice  to  the  ancient  chronicles 
of  Niagara's  accidents  and  incidents,  so  diversely  and  wondrously  elaborated  by  the 
loquacious  hackman-guide  of  the  F'alls. 


irvj 


153 


4\  Till'  tall  of  iStS,  Lord  Duftrrin.  tluii  (iovcrnor-CuTural  of  Canada, 
i  siiL[,i,r(sti'd  the  idea  of  crcatinj,'  an  International  Park  at  Niaj,fara,  Ironi 
lands  adjacent  to  am!  inc'liidinj,^  thi;  l-'alls,  to  In;  taken  fr(*in  both  siiles 
of  the  river,  (iovernor  Rol)inson.  of  New  ^'ork,  was  cordially  in  favor 
of  the  project,  and  the  New  N'ork  Lej^islatiire  appointed  a  commission  to  inv«'stij,'ate 
the  subject  and  report  thereon.  In  iSjc),  Mr.  James  I.  Gardner,  director  of  the  New 
V'ork  State  Smve),  and  Mr.  l-Vederick  Law  Olmsted  reported  to  the  Le^nslature. 
The  Canadian  ( lovernnient  had  also  a  survey  made,  embracing  all  the  lands  between 
the  embankment  above  and  the  river  front,  and  has  been  ready  at  all  times  to 
co-operate  with  the  State;  of  New  York. 

Tlie  |)ress  and  the  pulpit  took  up  the  agitation  of  the  ([uestion.  Rev.  Rolxirt 
Collyer  at  the  Church  of  the  Messiah  in  New  York  made  it  the  subject  of  an 
elaborate  discourse.  After  extolling  the  glories  of  the  place,  he  catalogued,  in  a 
forcible  manner,  du;  shames  of  Niagara,  in  substance  as  follows:  "One  of  the 
greatest  shames  was  cutting  down  a  long,  sweeping  arbor,  through  which  in  such 
grand  beaut)-  the  I'alls  used  to  loom  up  to  view  half  a  mile  away,  and  through  which 
the  deep,  soft  thunders  of  th'  mighty  cataract  fell  upon  the  ear,  a  grand  diapason. 
Tlu:  whole  surroundings  were  now  changed.  There  was  not  a  touch  of  sacredness. 
Mammon  ruled.  Of  course  those  owning  the  land  had  a  right  to  use  it  as  they 
thought  best.  It  was,  however,  clearly  the  duty  of  the  sovereign  people  of  the  State 
of  New  \'ork  to  purchase  it.  This  thing  had  gone  far  enough.  The  noble  park  should 
be  kept  free  to  all  visitors,  the  waters  should  be  rescued  from  the  hordes  of  mills, 
and  all  tlu;  land  al)out  the  grand  water  flood  be  given  to  the  world   free." 

This  matte  r  of  an  International  Park  lingered,  however,  till  this  summer,  when 
a  commission  empowered  by  the  New  York  Legislature,  to  select  and  locate  the 
lands  most  desirable  for  the  object  in  view,  and  institute  proceedings  for  accjuiring 
the  title  to  these  lands,  met  at  Niagara  L'alls.  The  result  of  their  deliberations  is 
briefly  told  by  ex-Lieut.-(iov.  Dorsheimer,  the  president  of  the  commission:  "At 
the  conclusion  of  our  inspection  we  determined  to  take  all  of  the  islands  in  the  river 
within  die  jurisdiction  of  diis  State,  both  Goat,  Bird,  Luna,  Chapin,  and  a  few  more 
adjacent  to  Niagara  river.  In  addition  to  the  islands  we  selected  a  strip  of  land  on 
the  main  shore,  beginning  just  above  the  head  of  the  rapids,  and  ending  at  the  upi)er 
sus|iension  bridge."  The  selection  embraces  the  lands  immediately  around  the  Falls, 
and  the  possession  of  this  territory  by  the  State  o(  New  York  would  prove  sufficient 
for  the  preservation  of  the  scenery.  It  is  the  opinion  of  many  that  the  Whirlpool 
Rapids  and  Whirlpool  are  the  natural  complement  of  the  Falls,  and  should  by  all 
means  be  included  in  the  proposed  park.  Whatever  may  be  the  decision  arrived  at 
upon  this  last  point,  a  Niagara  Reservation  may  now  be  considered  as  a  settled  fact. 


JI    PLKfl    FOI^    l»HK»Kl^l7ITION. 


I,    H      H  A  H  H  isnw. 


WB  PX  C)  { f  X  I  /  I  N  G  as  I  do  th(!  iin((|ual(il  value  of  Niaj^ara  as  a  source  or 
-*-  P  means  of  streiij^tli,  refreslunent,  and  happiness  for  many  millions  of  mi'n  and 
women,  and  of  elevation  ami  lieaut)  in  our  National  character,  and  fetlinjj^ 
most  deeply  inter(!sted  in  th('  (effort  to  restore  and  preserve  it  for  these  hiijh  uses, 
I  am  of  the  opinion  that  if  the  j,fround  about  the  l-'all  were  really  neediil  for 
cotton  and  paper  mills,  or  any  other  necessary  and  productive  lunnan  industries,  it 
would  be  rijjfht  to  take  it  and  ap|)ropriatc  and  occupy  it  for  these  objects.  \\\:  shall 
havi;  a  vast  and  crowded  population  in  this  part  of  our  country  beftjre  an)'  ^'reat 
time  has  elapsed,  and  we  are  preparintf  conditions  here  in  America  umler  which  the 
mass  of  men  must,  in  large  degree,  live  for  bread  for  themselves,  anil  little  bityond. 
Whenever  there  is  a  real  conllict  or  antagonism  between  economic,  business  or 
industrial  interests  on  ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^  for  "huddling  factories 
the  one  hand,  and  idcud  ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^j^B  around  tin;  I-'alls,"  -no 
or  :esthetic   considera-    ^K  ^H^HpSHpI    need  of  it  whatever.     I 

tions  on  the  other,  the    H  ^^H^ji^^Bfl    think  it  the  idlest  thing 

latter  must  give  way,    H  ^  K«^''^^^^^^^^B^H    in  the  world  for  anybody 

and  rightly,  because;  ^K^e|W^^^J|'^^^H|^^^^^H  ^^''^^^  desiri  s  the  preser- 
they  arc  secondary  or  ^KUS^^i^^ca^^^KK^m^m^M  vation  of  the  scenery 
subordinate  when  com-  ^^^Bm^^^^^^^^hHJH^H  here  for  ideal  and  spirit- 
necessi-  ^^^^^l^^^^^^^B^^^^H  ual  uses  to  decry  or  con- 
ties  of  ]jhysical  subsis-  ^^^?^!^9|lS|^^^K|||q||'^^B  temn  the  commercial 
tence.  But  in  this  case  ^p^^^flHI^i^l^^HIHDk^B  spirit  or  business  ent:rgy 
of  Niagara  Falls,  and  the    ^HHH|HHii^^^HH|^H^H    ^^  "i^x*  to  lament 

([uestion  of  its  prcscrva-    ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^M^^fl    its  application  to  this 
or  HH^^HH^^IH^IHI    particular  (object, — the 

there  is  no  good  reason  i.m.v  the  uiubl^oul  utilization  of  the  water- 

power  of  Niagara  for  manufacturing  purposes.  He  is  a  poor,  shallow  poet  or  artist 
who  can  see  only  the  poetic  or  artistic  side  of  things.  The  mass  of  men  must 
always  toil.  Infmite  drudgery  is  required  to  sustain  human  life  under  the  conditions 
of  civilizeti  society.  Millions  of  men  must  labor — must  labor  honestly,  nobly,  and 
happily — that  one  great  poet  may  sing  their  life,  or  one  man  of  divine  genius  paint 
a  picture  of  immortal  power  anil  beaut) . 

Build  the  factories,  then,  and  let  Niagara  turn  their  wheels.  But  where  shall 
the  factories  stand?  It  would  be  a  Jiiost  insane  and  outrageous  thing  to  place  them 
here,  amid  these  scenes  unparalleled  on  the  planet.  It  would  be  a  wholly  wanton 
sacrilege,  a   profanation    unusually  culpable,   because   entirely  unnecessary.      The 


i 

i 

m 


1-)-. 


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i 


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,     ,1! 


'■•^i'] 


If . 

... 

b. 


WM 


N'iaj,'ara  l<iv<  r  altovc  tin:  l-alls  lirs  so  hij^'h  aliovu  all  the  couniry  In-low  iht.'in  that 
the  w.ittr  ran  Ih:  taken  almost  any\vh<r»;  from  tlu;  river  channel.  Only  a  very  small 
rigion  iinintilialily  adjaunt  to  the  cataract  and  the  rapids,  with  the  islands  in  the 
rivt;r — this  is  all  that  is  rcciuircd  to  n)ake  this  place,  or  keep  it  what  nature  made  it, 
a  place  endowed,  as  no  other  place  on  the  globe  is  endowed,  with  (jualities  suited  to 
refresh,  elevate,  and  gladden  the  mind  and  heart  of  civilized  man  forever.  It  is  a 
sad  error  and  wrong  that  this  small  territory,  which  includes  all  that  is  essential  to 
Niagara,  ^all  its  wild  grace  and  ineffahle  charm, — should  be  held  by  any  private 
or  individual  ownership.  It  should  be  the  property  of  the  State,  the  possession  of 
the  people,  and  shoulil  be  h(;ld  in  trust  and  cared  for  by  the  government.  All  its 
wealth  of  be.iuty  and  of  high  uses  should  be  accessible  to  the  poorest  children  of 
toil  who  may,  by  wise  forethought  or  self-denying  frugality,  save  from  the  price  of 
their  labor  the  mc-ans  for  a  i)ilgrimage  to  this  shrine  of  ideal  and  spiritual  reality. 

l-'or  we  must  have  something  besides  factories,  and  turbine  wheels,  and  supply 
and  demanil,  and  daily  toil  for  daily  bread,  even  for  the  toiler  himself,  so  that  he 
m.iy  have  "a  daily  beauty  in  his  life,"  to  use  Shakespeare's  phrase.  You  see,  gentle- 
men capitalists  and  manufacturers,  the  laborer  must  toil  happily^  or  you  may  all 
come  to  grief  together,  and  capital  must  supply  and  maintain  tht:  conditions  of  beauty 
and  happiness  for  him.  Labor,  directed  and  ennobled  by  the  ideal,  moral  or  spiritual 
element,  creates  everything;  but  a  democratic  civilization,  based  on  the  labor  of  a 
class  of  serfs  of  the  mine  and  mill,  whose  toil  is  unwilling,  degraded,  and  faithless, 
would  not  be  likely  to  endure  long  in  a  world  where  the  deepest  meaning  of  every- 
thing is  moral. 

Let  us  have  a  great  city  of  factories,  sustained  by  the  water-power  of  Niagara. 
We  are  destined  to  have  it.     It  is  entirely  right  that  this  immense  endowment  of 
mechanical  forces  for  the  use  of  mankind  should  be  employed  to  supply  their  plu    ii 
wants.     Only  let  us  have  the  mills  a  little  at  one  side;    not  just  here  at  .Is. 

There'  are  (juite  as  good  and  even  better  sites  for  them  a  little  farther  aw  Put 

them  far  enough  back  from  the  I'^alls  and  the  Rapids  to  give  room  for  a  screen  of 
tries  between, — far  enough  for  the  distance  to  soften  the  clangor  of  steam  whistles, 
so  that  on  Sunday,  or  (as  I  observe  that  many  laborers  in  New  England  mills  have 
to  work  on  Sunday)  at  least  on  the  Fourth  of  July,  the  toiler  of  the  factory  may 
come  to  the  Falls,  and,  looking  upon  their  grandeur  and  noble  purity,  undcfiled  by 
tawdry  electric  lights,  or  watching  the  wild  play  of  the  rapids,  or  wandering  amid 
the  solitudes  of  "the  forest  primeval"  on  Goat  Island,  may  feel  that  he  has  a  soul, 
anil  is  not  a  mere  driven  beast  of  burden,  and  that  he  has  a  country  which  cares  for 
him  as  one  of  the  great  brotherhood  of  her  children. — Boston  Advertiser. 


SEP' 


15tt 


fcl  ^^ 


m 


n 


NIflGjFIHJI    FjflhhS,   ONTpi^IO. 


i? 


i 


■!■♦ 


•Ir 


('TSI^IIIS  \'l  l,l..\<i  i;,  f(iriinrl\  known  ;is  Clifton,  cxtoncls  alon^'  the  Canada 
I  sliorr  III'  Niai^Mra  Kivcr,  iVoni  tli<:  r|)|)<r- Rapids  at  llv-  Horsc-Sho*'  I  •"all.  to 
llif  raiir();al  Sii^pi  nsion  iirids^c  a  distamc  of  over  two  miles.  The  most 
inlcnslin}^  portion  ol  the  viilai^c  lies  in  the  imnn-diatc  vicinity  of  the  Falls,  ami  a 
ln;uitiful  |)ros|)((  t  can  !)<•  cnjoyft'  at  almost  any  point  on  Main  street,  the  only  street 
ai()nL,r  the  river  l)ank  upon  which  ljuildin<,'s  arc;  erected.  Yhc.  Canada  shore  can 
claim  one  point  ovir  all  other  localities  around  the;  I'alls.  in  Iwini;  the  only  |)lace.  at 
present,  whire  a  j^^ood  \  i<-\\ 
of  the  Catara(  t  can  he  had 
without  the  |)ayment  of 
ailmittance  fees.  It  is.  how- 
ever,  hojx-tl  that  the 
creation  of  the  Interna- 
tional Park  may  take  place 
at  ;in  early  dale,  and 
secure  similar  urivilej^es 
on  the  American  side, 
irom  .\iaj;ar;i  I'alls 
station,  the  tJUinilnises  and 
carriatjes  of  the  Michi!:,''an 
Central  Transfer  Company 
convi)  passent^ers  to  any 
point  on  the  Canatlian  or 
Americ.m  side,  at  the  rate 
of  fift)  cents  for  eai  h 
passen!.,Mr  and  usual 
:i:iioimt  of  l)ai,'L;ai,n'.  This 
Comp.my  has  heen  ori;an- 
i/ed  for  the   protection   of 

The  Brunswick  House,  located  midwa)' helwei-n  the  houses  above  mentir)ned. 
immediately  :'pposite  the  Center  |-"aH,  furnishes  a  pleasant  stopping;  place,  with  all 
its  ap|i(.li  Miients  complete,  and  well  calculated  to  j)romote  th(!  comfort  of  its  patrons. 
It  is  indeed  a  desir.ihle  stoppinjj;  plac»'.  the  terms  heiiijj  moderate  and  the  fare  I'x- 
cellent.  It  has  ever  heen  the  aim  of  M.  Kick,  its  present  |)roprietor,  to  keep  a  first- 
class  hotel,  suited  to  the  needs  of  visitors  desirous  of  witm-ssinjj  the  i^rand  sjtectacle 
<il  Niaj^ara  without  incurrini^f  heavy  expenses,  and  as  such.  "The  Brunswick'  has 
lull)  rst.ihlishi  d  its  rij,dit  to  he  re<rard«>il  as  a  success.     SeeinLf  is  l)elievin}f 


the  travelinj^  public,  and 
from  th«!  ^rentle:nanly 
agents  in  charjje,  every 
on<'  can  feel  sure  to  receixc 
courteous  replit-s  and  most 
reliable  information.  Vhr 
tourist,  wishini,^  to  select 
a  temporary  abiding  place 
on  the  Canada  side,  will  fmtl 
several  well-kept  hotels,  at 
prices  varying  according  to 
accommodations  desired, 
The  largest  and  most  com- 
modious of  these  is  th(! 
Clifton  House,  which  has 
been  open  to  the  public  for 
more  than  fortj  years,  anil 
has  an  established  repu- 
tation. The  Prospect 
House  is  almost  on  the 
verge  of  the  P'alls  Ix-ing 
located  at    Table   Rock. 


VILLAGE   OF   NipGpi^p   FpbliS,    N.  V. 


Dii  the  Aiiifrlcaii  SIrin 


rtfX  H  E  \'l  LLACil']  of  Niaj,fara  I'alls,  N.  \.,  was  incorporaU'il  on  July  Otii,  1S4S. 
Ji^  and  contains  to-day  a  population  of  nearly  four  thousand  inhal)itants.  It 
boasts  of  several  hotels,  larife  stores,  chunhes  to  the  numlter  of  six,  and  has 
one  of  the  larjjfcst  paper  mills  in  the  Slate  of  New  \nik.  The  main  business  street 
of  the  villag(!  is  Falls  street,  on  which  may  be  found  hardware,  dry  j^ooils,  ami 
almost  all  the  business  of  the  |)lace;  the  post-oftice  is  located  about  the  center  of  tlu; 
street,  and  at  its  foot  may  lu;  seen  a  Soldier's  Monument.  In  summer  time;  thi' 
streets  present  (juite  an  animated  ap[)carance;  they  are  broad  and  well  kept,  anil 
nboimd  in  fme  shade  trees;  especially  may  this  be  saiil  of  I'irst  street,  on  which  four 
churches  are  situated  in  close  proximity  to  each  other.     Buffalo  street  contains  some 

line    residences, 
r  h  e  h  o  1 1!  I  s  a  r  e 
prominent  features 
of  the  place. 
T  h  e    C  a  t  a  r  a  c  t 
I  louse,  dates  its  ex- 
ice   back  to  the  year 
It  is  a  handsome 
inj^,  possessinj^f  all  the 
•ments,   elii^nbly  locati-d 
•r,   over  the   Rapids, 
above  the  balls,  and  receives  liberal  patronaj^'e  from 
the  most  opulent  t,niests.      It  is,   in  every  respect,  a  first-class  hotel. 

The  International  Hotel  has  accommodation  for  600  ij^uests.  It  is  a  mammoth 
fire-proof  buiKlin},^  and,  borrowint^f  a  <|uotatinn  from  a  Niaj^ara  (luide  Hook,  "its 
conveniences  are  not  intf;nded  for  the-  use  of  liie  poorest  of  Xiajjara's  visitors. " 

The  Hotel  Kaltenbach,  located  within  a  few  steps  east  of  the  Cataract  House, 
and  in  full  view  of  the  American  Rapids,  can  be  classed  as  one  of  the  fme  hotels  at 
the  I-'alls.  A  neater,  cosii-r,  pleasantir,  and  more  home-like  abiding,'  place  cannot  be 
found  anywhere.  Its  pojjularity  is  'inmense,  and  certainly  well  deserved.  The 
buildinj,^  is  a  nv\\\  handsome  thre(;-story  brick  structure.  aft<'r  the  j.(othi<  styh',  and 
contains  thirt)'  sleepinj.;-rooms.  The  housr;  is  tast(;fully  and  handsomely  furnished 
throu}.,du)ut,  provideil  with  baths,  electric  lulls,  water,  j.[as,  and  all  modern  improve- 
ments.      The  cuisiiie  is  excellent,  the  taiile    er\iii'  of  the   best.       This  house  h.ts  put 

j.tu 


l!l 


\n 


W  ' 


in  |)ra(  ti(  <•  a  feature  worthy  nf  imitation  at  summer  resorts,  and  specially  at  Xiajjara 
I'.ills  Its  rates  are  posted  upon  llie  door  of  eacli  mom— $3.00  per  day — and  an; 
uniform  to  all  (omers.  Mr.  Kaltenhach  deserves  murh  from  the  traveh'ng  public, 
and  it  is  only  to  i)e  re},'retted  that  tlie  limited  size  of  the  huildinj;^  tloes  not  p(;rmit 
the  entertainment  of  hundreds  of  daily  visitors.  The  "  Kaltenbach"  is  open  smnmer 
and  w  inter.      It  commands  the  enviabh"  patronaj^o  of  th*;  licst  class  of  tourists. 

The  Spencer  I  louse  is  conveniently  situated  opposite  the  New  York  Central 

mention.  The  press  is  well 
represented  by  the  Daily 
and  Weekly  Gaz('tte,  imder 
the  niana^fcment  of  Peter  A. 
Porter.  To-day,  Niagara 
Palls  is  popularly  known  as 
a  fashionalile  and  inviting 
place  of  resort,  only.  VXw. 
town  of  the  future,  however, 
is  destined  to  be  rangetl 
among  the  most  important 
of  our  manufacturing  marts. 
1  he  immense  water-power, 
which  can  l)e  utilized  so 
easily,  has  begun  to  attract 
the  attention  of  capitalists. 
The  projected  International 
Park  will  contribute  materi- 
ally to  the  industrial  adv-tince- 
inent  and  jjrogress  of  the 
town,  its  object  l)eing  not 
tf»  drive  away  manufacturers, 
but  simply  to  exclude  tlnin   from  tin-  immediate  pro.ximity  of  the  cataract. 

The  much  abused  and  villitied  .Niagara  hackman  is,  of  course,  one  of  th("  promin- 
ent features  of  the  street.  To  him  might  pro|)erIy  apj)ly  the  description  of  "  Hill 
Warnirk.'    the  harkm.m  of  the  Indianapolis  Herald. 

ill-  nllim  k<'|>t  IiIh  cycH  iiIioikI 
Whi.'lu'viT  way  hi'  wi'fit, 
III'  wiis  up  ill  IiIh  prnfi'HMloii— Iii> 

CiMlIll    ImI/./    a    |IIIHM'II|{I'I' 

Siii'i'i'KHriil  half  11  Hi|iiari'.  r\\t\\\  tlirmiKh 

Till'  wiiiiliT  iif  H  kyiT, 
Anil  III*  kiiiiwoil  till-  liiiniHti  wiiy  so  well, 

111'  iii'viT  iiiIhsi'iI  n  III 
Wlii-ii  it  riiiiii'  til  iiiiiking  rhiirKoit 

Ami  itiH'iirln'  liis  purkUit. 

tao 


liepot.  It  is  kept  open  die  T 
\e.ir  around,  and  ranks  ' 
among  the  l>est  hotels  at 
.\iag.ira.  The  .Niagara 
I  lousi'  is  largeU  patronized 
b\  commen  ial  trav«lers  and 
tourists.  It  possesses  com- 
fortable a|)pointments  with 
pleasant  surroundings.  It  is  t; 
open  at  all  seasons  of  the 
year.  The  Cioat  Island 
I  louse,  situatetl  at  tht;  Island 
bridge  entrance,  ;it  the  edge 
of  till'  Kapids,  offers  also 
good  induo-mcnts  to  visitors 
I  lie  P.iiific  Hotel  ranks 
among  the  gooil  liot«'ls  of 
the  place  and  is  kept  open 
during  tht'  entire  year. 
( )tlier  Hotels  there  are  on 
this  side,  of  which  the  limits 
of  this  work  forbid   even   a 


POINTS  OF   INTEI^EST. 


THF.  \-ARIOrS  points  whence  the  finest  views  of  the  1-alls  may  hv  obtained, 
and   tlie  most   interestin^r  of  the  many  historical  and  .penological  spots  in  the 
vicinity,  can  Ik-  cataloK'i"'<^l  ^^^  follows : 


DN  AMERICAN  SIDE. 

CfOAT  Island  Bkiohk. 

American  Uai'ii>s  ahovk.  tiik  Kam-s. 

GOAT    ISLAND   GROUP. 
Hath  Isi,ani). 

LiNA   Isi.ANIl. 

CilAi'lN   Island. 
UoiiiNSKN  Island. 
Ship  and  Hum  Islands. 
Threk  Sisters  Islands. 
The  Center  Fall. 
The  Three  I'kofiles. 
H'xi's  Hack. 
HiDDLE  Stairs. 
Cavk  of  the  Winds. 
Hock  of  .\iiES. 
Terrapin  Bridise. 
Head  of  Goat  Island. 
The  Leaimnci  Uock. 

PROSPECT    PARK. 

The  Point. 
Inclined  Uailway. 
Shadow  ok  the  Hock. 
Hurricane  Hridue 

WiiiRLi'ooL  Kaimds    American  side. 

The  Whirlpool    Ameuican  hide. 

The  Devil's  Hole. 

Lewiston. 

Fort  Niaoara. 

Indian  Villaoe. 


DN  CANADIAN  SIDE. 

View  from  amove. 

Oeneral  View. 

Amehk  AN  Falls  (Front  View). 

Tahle  Hoc  k. 

Horse  Shoe  Fall. 

Spiral  Staircase. 

rNDER  TaIILK    UocK. 

Hehini)  the  HouseShoe  Fall. 
Canadian  Kapids  arove  the  Falls. 
Cedar  Isle  Paooda. 
(IRAND  lUpfDs  Drive. 
Castor  and  Pollix  Hridoes. 
Cynthia  Island. 
Clark  Hill  Islands. 
The  Lovers'  Walk. 

BlRNINd   SPRIN(i. 
MlISEIM. 

The  Ferry 

New  SrspENSioN  Bkidoe. 
Uailway  Sisi'Ension  Bridoe. 
Whirlpool  Hapids  Park. 
Whirlpool  and  Manitou  IIock. 
Bro<ks  Moncment 
queenston. 
NiAciARA  City. 

FOUT   MlHSASACllA. 

Drimmondville. 

LiNDVs  I,ANE  Battle  (Ihocsd. 

Navy  Island. 

Chippewa  Battle  (iiiorND. 


i|   I 


See  index  to  contents  for  special  descriptions  of  the  principal  points. 


tei 


V 


I)I»TfINCK». 


FImM  I'ltlM'Il'Al/  UOTKI.S. 


AP'IUhI  (iiiiil    lr>lllli<l.  .  .  .  - 

Tn-i"'!  I'lirk.  .... 

'Ic.  N'W  Sii(-|«Mi:.iiiii  Hriil>{i'. 

■    ICiiilniiy     '■ 

"   Mi.  tiit'iiii  (I'litrBl  Cariti-liNiT  llriitui', 

■•    \VI,irl|"...l  K(i|.i.|^, 

"    Wliirli"...:,  ..... 

"    |lr\il-  II. .1... 

"    Top  i.f  Miiiiiiliiiii,  .  .  .  - 

"    ImliaiL  VilliiK''  (Ciiiiinil  M..ii>.    .         ■ 

"   Tiil.l..  It.Hk.  ..... 

\i/i  Ni'W  Siis|>i'iisiciii   llriclp',  CM'  I'l'iry, 

Uailwny  Siisiii'iisiiiri  lliiilK'S 

"    liiiiiiiii;,'  SiiriiiK,         ..... 
"  "       viii  Ni'W  SiiH|M'iiHiiiii  Hriilf,'!',     - 

"        "   Itiiilwny  SiispiMiHiiin  ItriiJK'',    - 

"   liiinily'x  l.iiiii'  Ilattli'  (iroiiiicl,    - 
'III  ltn»k's  Mimiiiiii'iit,  (^iiiTiiSlnii  H>'if,'lilrt,    - 


lANAD*  SiriK. 

\M.  HlhK 

2  mil08. 

1^  niili'H 

1     " 

4     " 

1  " 

i     " 

'-        ** 

■i 

I(  •■ 

\i     " 

■ik  " 

24     " 

2i    " 

;i 

1    ■ 

M     " 

7      " 

<\\     " 

sk    - 

8 

li 


u  •• 


^IDMIMKION    FEE»   fINI)   TOIiIiS. 


Ti>  <;.. at  Island  f..r  llii' "lay,         ..... 

"        si'nHiiii,  ..... 

■    rni-pi'it  I'ark  for  till' ilay.    -..-.. 
"         '•  "  "      rti'ii^iiii.     .  .  .  .  - 

"  Chvi' <if  tlic  Wiiiils  iwilli  Kiii'li' mill  ilii'.sKi, 
"  Sliailnw  >if  till' UiK-k  I  with  Kiildo  ami  (liPSs), 
"  Art  (lallcry  I  I'riispool  I'aik)  ..... 

■'  lii.'liiicil  liaihvay  (riiispcft  I'nikl  .... 

"  KiTry  ti>  laijaila  and  rriispci't  I'lirk,  .... 

"   I'.li'itric  I.iKlit  (rrii.^|M'cl  I'arki  I'Xlfii,  oii  day  nr  season  tirki't..*. 
"   It.liind  Horsi'.SIioi    Kail  witli  unid"' luiil  dri'.ss.     Canada  sidi', 
*    Musturn.  .  -  ..... 

"  lliiniiriK  SpiiiiK  and  Islands,  .  .  .  .  - 

"   l.uiidys  I.ane  Hatlle  Cniunil,      .... 
"  \V|iirlp(M.I  I!a|iids  ii'lIliiT  sidi'i.  .  .  .  .  - 

"  Wliiili I  ..■itli.r  siiloi,  ..... 

"  *'icis~in(,'  Xi'H  Siisprnsloii  Bridal;  icarli  wayi, 

"  "  •'  "        I'xtni  for  two-lioisi' rarriHKc, 

'■  Crossing  Unilway  Suspension  Brid;,'!' lovor  and  ri'tuni  I,     . 

"  "  "  "        I'Xtra  for  t«i)-liorsi' <  I'-iano, 

"  Toll  on  ItiviT  Hank  IliKliuoy,  Caniiiiu  Hide,  for  I'aiTiiigos  oi  '■  , 


HPTE»    OF    FpH.E 

AI^I.OWEI)    MY   h\\\    IN   THE  VILLACIE  OK  MAUAIIA   FALLH.    .N.    Y. 

For  Ihr  uiie  mill  hin  nf  caniiigis  icheri  no  e.ri>rri»i  ronlraci  in  made  Iherrfor: 

I'of  •  arryinK  oni-  passiMi^'iT  ami  ordinary  lianKiiK'"  from  one  placi-  to  another  in  the  Villn;,'e. 

Kiii'l.  .•itditioiial  passenger  ami  ordinary  hnK'KQK''.  ....... 

KerearryinR  one  passenger  and  ordinary  liajjjfaKe  frotn  niiy  point  in  this  villajje  to  any  point  in  the  village 

Suspension  Bridge,         .......  .... 

r.aih  additional  pa:.si'ni.'er  and  ordinary  Imggage.  ....... 

Kaili  additional  piece  of  liaggage  other  than  ordinary  liag;,'age,  ...... 

Cliililren  under  tliree  years  of  age.  frei'. 

Over  three  yi'urs  and  iMid<T  fourteen  yi'ars  of  agi<,  half  prii-e. 

Onliiii.iy  liaggnge  is  dellned  to  lie  one  trunk  and  (UH'  luig.  hat  or  bandbox,  or  i>ther  small  p.ireel. 

I'or  I  iinying  one  or  more  passiTigers,  In  lie-  siini'  earriage.  fnun  any  poini  in  this  village  to  any  point 

miles  of  the  limits  of  the  village   at  the  rate  of  one  dollar  and  fifty  cents  for  each  hour  oeeupled,  i 

in  every  iii~lanee  where  such  cariiage  shall  ho  cirawri  liy  a  .singli'  liorse,  tlio  fare  therefore  aliall  lie 

of  one  clollar  for  each  hour  oec  iipied. 

las 


24       " 

i; 

2 

7   niile.s. 


$11  M 

I  11(1 

(I  ir, 

»  7.'. 

I  (Ml 

I  (Id 
0  2.-I 

(I  2r. 

0  !>0 

II  l.'i 

1  (Id 
(I  M 
(I  M 
d  .'lO 
0  ,'id 
(I  'id 
(I  2,-| 

d  ,-id 

(I  2,-> 

(I  ."iO 

d  Id 


•  if 


9d  ,'id 

(1  2i 

1  (M) 

«  ,-iO 

n  12 

within  live 
'xi'ept  thai 
ut  the  rati) 


A    BRIEF    GUIDE 


Niagara  Falls  and  Vicinity. 


COMPILKli   1-R(1M    lll.liRIMs'   NOTES. 

ADER.  the  pilgrim  stands  entranced  and  lingers  on  the  platform  at 
the  station  of  Falls  X'iew.  on  the  Canada  side.  H.-  hesitates  to  advance 
^rther  in  his  explorations,  in  fear  of  destroying  the  diu^^ly-rooted  niipres- 
^  sions  left  npon  all  his  sensc-s  at  the  fust  si.^du  of  that  wondrous  v.s.on 
.-  -  of  Nia.rara.  which  defies  at  once  description  and  analysis,  and  excfs  by 
turns,  ideas  of  grandeur,  beauty,  terror,  power,  sublimity.  Hut  rememberui.i,  h.s 
bounden  duty  to  you,  he  wends  his  way.  leisurely,  to  the  little  Canadian  vdlage  lyniK' 
immediately  under  the  brow  of  the  hill,  and  soon  reaches  the  nver  bank. 

GKNKUM.  V.KW.-From  the  bank  just  below  the  Clifton  H.usc  thercis  a  fine  P;'"'"-^"";;; 
vl;  uf  both  l--alls.  The  larger  cataract  stretching  from  shore  to  shore  ,s  the  Lanad  n 
:rH:L-Shoe  ....1,  .hUst  the  smaller  one  is  the  Americ.m.  Tlus  vew  en,h..ces  he 
entire   contour  of  the   Cataract   from  the  northern  pouU  of  the   .Xmencan   1  all  to  the 

Canadian  shore  at  Table-Rock.  „     ,  ,r  .   ,i,.. 

AMKK  "vN  F.-VU-S-FKosr  V..;w.-A  few  steps  further,  and  from  a  small  platform  on  the 
T^^opposite  the  Brunswick  Mouse,  there  is  a  most  interesting  front  v.ew  of   he  Am     - 
ican  and  Center  Falls.     The  Rapids  above,  the  church  sp.n.s  o        e  A--  e-    '^"V- 
showing  thn.ugh  the  trees,  the  islands  in  the  rner,  the  rocks  at  the  foot  of  th     1    U 
upon  w' ich  the  descending  torrent  breaks  into  spray,  all  contriln.te  to  the  magnificence 

tJI  Ro'^T  exists  only  in  name,  and  in  the  interest  which  attaches  to  its  site.      It  w..  a 

Hous:^s"'!^FA.....-Here  we  are  at  t..,  Igc  of  the  fm.ous  Cataract.  The  pencil  nor  the 
en  u  do  justice  to  the  scene.  The  silent  and  still  picture  wants  the  motion  and  the 
^Id  :Mhit  stupendous  rush  of  waters.  An  ever-rising  column  o  ;P^;y; -'-;^ 
with  prismatic  glory,  spires  upward  from  the  foaming  ^'"'L  -•''^^-^^  ^^^^  '\  '^  .^„ ',  , 
is  worth  a  pilgrin„age  of  several  thousand  nules  to  see.  1  he  dept  f  1  -  ^  -  J  ^ 
center  is  m..re  than  :o  feet,  as  proven  by  an  cxpcnmcnt  made  ^uih  the  unscaworthy 
vessel,  "Michigar" K.IU  In  ,  S.7. 


This  Fall  is  191 


)0 


feet  across  with  a  drop 


cubic 


feet  of  water  pass  over  the  ledge  every 


,f  I  sS  feet  and  fully  fifteen  hundred  million 
•Horse-Shoe"  is  hardly 


hour.    The  name 


i)>:i 


m 


Iiii; 


Hki. 


Can 


N'AV 


Tin: 


Till 


Tin: 


Till 


true  tn  the  |)ri-siMit  '•liapc,  which  is  now  more  nearly  rectangular.  The  horse-shoe  curve 
h.is  iH-en  marred  by  the  falling,'  nf  portions  of  the  cliff  at  various  times,  until  its  orii,'inal 
syninietrv  has  nearl)'  departed. 

Si'iK.M.  .Si  viK'  A^r.,  firinl)-  anchored  t<>  the  rocky  banks  at  the  north  end  of  Table- 
Kock.  di-^niul^  the  perpendicular  face  of  the  cliff  anil  leaiis  under  Table-Rock  and  to  the 
fiHPt  iif  the  Ijorse-Shoe  {•"all.  Dresses  and  j^uides  must  be  obtained  to  pass 
>\\  I  .\Hl.i;KitrK  AM)  I'VDKR  nil".  I'ai.I,. — The  view  here  is  j;rand  in  an  awful  degree. 
An  imlescrib.ible  feeling;  of  awe  ste.ils  over  us,  anil  we  are  more  than  ever  impressed 
with  the  tremendous  ma^'nificence  of  .Niagara,  as  we  ga/c  upwards  at  the  frowning  cliff 
that  >eems  tottering  to  ii^  f.ill,  and  pass  under  the  thick  curtain  of  water — so  near  tiiat  it 
seems  as  if  we  could  touch  it — and  hear  the  hissing  s|)ray,  and  are  stunned  by  the  deaf- 
ening roar  that  l--iks  from  the  mist\-  vortex  at  our  feet.  The  precipice  of  the  Horse- 
Shoe  l'"all  rises  perinndicidarly  to  a  height  of  <ji>  feet;  at  our  feet  the  cliff  ilescends 
about  70  feet  into  a  turmoil  of  bursting  foam;  in  front  is  the  liquiii  curtain  wliich,  though 
e\er  passing  onwar<l,  ne\er  unveils  this  wildest  of  Nature's  caverns. 

I'",merging  from  our  expedition  into  the  cavernous  recess  of  the  Great  Fall,  we  now 
ga/r  from   Table  Rock  .it  the 

aiha.n  RaI'IUs  AliDVi;  nil-.  Tai.I.s,  full  before  us,  sweeping  down,  multitudinous, 
app.irently  illimitable,  the  white  foaming  crests  drawn  sharply  against  the  horizon. 

Continuing  the  road,  we  cross  to  Cl.DAR  Isi.AMi,  and  following  the  (iUAM)  Raimds 
!)l<l\  1:,  one  of  the  pleasantest  around  Niagara,  along  tlie  Canadian  Rapids,  we  reach  the 
Cl.AKK  1 1 II. I.  Islands,  t'nc  in  number,  connected  to  the  main  land  at  either  end,  by  the 
elegant  suspension  bridges,  "  Castor  "  and  "Pollux."  CVNTIIIA  Isi.AND  stands  on  our 
left,  and  immediately  opposite,  across  a  wild  branch  of  the  river,  the  cottage  erected  over 
the  renowned  Hi  UNIM;  SrklMi,  where,  through  a  fissure  in  the  rock,  an  inflammable 
sulphurous  gas  comes  uj). 

T'rom  the  bluff  above  the  lUirning  Spring,  a  magnificent  view  is  had  of  the  Rapids 
anil  the  ri\er,  and  also  of 

N'  !si,.\Ni),  over  three  hundred  acres  in  area.  The  island  is  a  liritish  possession,  and  in 
iS^7  was  made  the  rendezvous  of  the  Canadian  Patriots  in  open  rebellion  against  the 
authorities  of  the  Dominion. 

Retracing  our  steps,  we  notice,  passing  tlirough  the  village, 
.Ml><l,l  M   lU  ll.IUNi;,  which   contains   a  collection   of  natural   and   artificial   curiosities 
gathered  from  the  various  corners  of  the  earth,  and  tastefully  arranged  for  display. 

( )ur  objective  point  now  is  the  American  Side,  and  in  three  or  four  minutes  we  reach 
the  bank  below  the  Clifton.  Mere  we  have  a  choice  of  two  methods  in  crossing  the 
river.  We  may  descend  the  bank  and  cross  by  the  ferry,  or  may  go  over  the  New  Sus- 
pension hridge.  .Adopting  the  former,  we  descend  the  path,  and  at  the  water's  edge  find 
i'"i;Kk\'. — We  commit  ourselves  to  the  little  boat  and  are  soon  dancing  on  the  agitated 
waters,  gazing  in  profound  silence  at  the  Falls.  'This  crossing  affords  most  vivid  impres- 
sions of  the  majesty  .md  immensity  of  the  Cataract.  'The  brawny  boatman  handles  his 
oars  dexterously,  and  in  a  few  minutes  we  are  landed  close  at  the  foot  of  the  American  Fall. 

Passing  through  a  tunnel-like  shed  and  donning  an  oil-skin  dress,  we  emerge  onto 
the  rocks  into  .1  storm  of  s|)ray,  and  stand  upon 
Hi  KKit  .\m:  Hkiikii;,  from  which  may  be  seen  a  tremendous  gliost  of  mist,  forming 
heav\'  clouds  fringed  with  all  the  brilliant  colors  of  the  rainbow.  The  scene  is  wild  and 
overpowering  Looking  up  to  the  towering  crest  of  the  stupendous  cataract,  the 
inuiiense  mass  of  waters  seems  to  pour  down  from  the  skies.  We  pass  now  to 
SliAlxiw  Oh  iiii.:  RoiK,  the  name  given  to  a  recess  behind  the  Fall  itself,  which  extends 
nearly  to  the  center  of  the   I'all,  and  is  filled  with  the  dashing  spray  perpetually  rising 

1U4 


from  the  cauldrnn  of  waters.     The  roar  of  the  cataract  echoes  and  re-echoes  within  this 
chamber,  the  etifect  beinj,'  hei^'htened  by  tlic  compression  of  the  air. 

To  reacli  tile  Table-land  above  we  pass  ti>rout,di  the  dressing  rooms,  wliere  we  cast 
off  our  mariner's  suit  and  are  ready  for  a  trip  up 

TllK  Inci.IM;I)  Railway. — A  tunnel  has  been  cut  from  tlie  cliffs  to  the  mar^jin  of  the  river, 
at  an  angle  of  about  thirty  ilegrees,  and  within  it  is  built  the  railwa)-,  by  the  side  of 
which  is  a  flight  of  stairs,  numbering  290  ste])s.  The  cars  are  raised  and  lowered  by 
machinery,  and  are  so  arranged  that  one  ascends  while  the  other  descends. 

Prospkct  PoIM  is  on  the  very  verge  of  the  Fall,  at  the  point  where  its  mighty  waters 
descend  in  one  solemn  unbroken  mass  into  a  gulf  of  spray  rising  in  clouds  from  tiie  tor- 
tured waves  beneath,  and  driven  about  by  the  gusts,  till  sometimes  the  wliole  river 
anil  the  opposite  shores  are  niomentaril)-  concealed.  As  this  misty  curtain  is  withdrawn, 
the  whole  scene  is  disclosed.  Immediately  in  front  is  the  American  Fall,  its  waters 
almost  in  reach  of  the  outstretched  hand,  beyond  this  I. una  Island  anil  the  wooded  steps 
of  Goat  Island,  while  to  the  right  stretches  in  wonderful  magnificence  the  sublime  curve 
of  the  Horse-Shoe  F'all;  and  up  the  stream  the  foaming  rapids  greet  the  vision. 

Prosi'KCT  Park  e.\tends  all  around  us,  a  remnant  of  the  natural  forest.  Cool,  shady  walks 
run  in  all  directions,  the  air  is  full  of  the  fragrance  of  wild  blossoms,  rustic  seats  at  inter- 
vals furnish  delightful  resting  places  and  convenient  positions  to  gaze  at  the  scenery. 
When  the  shades  of  night  envelop  the  earth  in  darkness,  electric  lights  pour  their  brilliant 
rays  upon  the  scene,  infusing  the  spray  clouds  with  gorgeous  rainbow  tints  and  brilliantly 
illuminating  the  rolling  waters.  An  Art  (iailery.  Concert  Hall,  F'ountains,  Bazaar,  and 
other  objective  points  of  entertainntent,  are  provided  to  engage  the  attention  of  visitors. 
Leaving  the  Park  at  its  south-eastern  corner  we  find  on  our  right  the  toll-gate  of 

Goat  Island  liRllxir.. — This  structure  is  remarkable  from  the  fact  that  it  spans  one  of  the 
most  turbulent  of  any  known  rapids.  It  was  first  built  as  a  frail  wooden  structure  in 
181 7,  by  Judge  Porter,  and  was  soon  carried  away.  It  was  replaced  by  a  stronger  one, 
which  stood  from  181 8  to  185''),  when  it  was  removed,  and  the  present  elegant  structure 
substituted.  The  foundations  are  heavy  oaken  cribs,  filled  with  stone  and  plated  with 
iron.  The  bridge  itself  is  of  iron,  in  four  arches,  each  of  ninety  feet  span,  making  a 
total  length  of  three  hundred  and  sixty  feet.  Its  width  is  twentj-seven  feet,  comprising 
a  double  carriage-way,  with  footway  on  either  side.      Here  is  the  finest  outlook  on 

Tin;  Amkrican  Rapius  ahdvk  TIIK  Falls,  which  viewed  from  this  point  present  that 
same  appearance  of  plunging  from  the  sky  which  renders  the  view  of  the  Canadian 
Rapids  from  the  Canada  shore  so  impressive. 

Ship  an'D  Hrk;  Islands  stem  the  current  a  little  above  the  bridge  and  are  two  small  wooded 
isles  of  rare  beauty.  It  needs  but  little  effort  of  the  imagination  to  fancy  them  vessels 
under  full  press  of  sail,  endeavoring  to  sheer  out  of  the  current  that  hurries  them  inevi- 
tably down.  Ship  Island  was  once  accessible  by  a  bridge  connecting  it  with  Bath  Island. 
It  was  swept  away  and  has  not  been  rebuilt. 

Bath  Island,  one  of  the  group  of  islands  which  stud  the  rapids  upon  the  American  side, 
above  the  cataract,  is  the  first  on  our  way.  It  contains  about  two  acres,  and  its  former 
scenes  of  loveliness  ha\e  disapjjeared  to  make  room  for  the  various  buildings  and  sheds 
of  a  large  paper-mill.  Looking  do.vn  the  river  are  several  small  islets,  the  first  two  of 
wiiich  are  named  Chapin  and  Robinson  Islands. 

CllAPiN  Island  received  its  name  from  that  of  a  workman  who  fell  into  the  rapids  while  re- 
pairing the  (ioat  Island  bridge,  was  hurled  to  its  shores,  and  notwithstanding  the  imminent 
peril  of  the  undertaking  was  rescued  by  Joel  R.  Robinson. 

RoitlNSoN  Island  is  named  after  the  intrepid  navigator  of  Niagara's  troubled  waters,  whose 
brave  feats  of  daring  in  rescuing  life  and  property,  should  immortalize  iiis  name. 
Crossing  by  a  bridge  of  a  single  span,  at  the  south  end  of  Bath  Island,  we  are 

1115 


lil 


; 


w 


!;r 


(IN  (i'i\i  Imami.  iiitii  .1  sli.idv  f'uc^t,  alniiisi  in  it-;  piinR'val  siniplicit)-,  a  most  lovely  aiul 
rotn.intic  sput  nf  ^^roiiiul,  aHnniin^'  a  cool  retreat  in  summer  from  the  noon-il.i)'  lieat, 
htiHMtli  the  tlen^e  fuli.i^je  of  trees  abi>iiiulint;  there,  upon  the  trunks  of  which  are  inscribed 
\.iri'Mi^  n. lines  and  dates  showing  that  visits  were  here  made  as  earl)-  as  \/C><j.  It  was, 
in  ,ini  irnt  limes,  one  of  the  f.ivorite  buryini,'-nrountls  of  the  Indians.  It  owes  its  sini^'ular 
n.imc  !■>  the  f,ict  that  some  iioA[s  placed  thei-e  to  pasture  in  177<J,  perisheil  from  the  cold 
diiriri}^  the  ev.suin^,'  \\intir.  '{"his  Island,  r)rminn  on  one  siile  a  |)art  of  the  precii)ice, 
iiinnm  iue>  ui  ,ir  tlu'  head  of  the  Kapids  almost  in  the  center  of  the  river,  dividing;  it  so 
.is  to  fiirm  the  two  main  portions  nf  the  I'aljs.      It  covers  an  extent  of  seventy  acres. 

On  reaching'  the  Isj.md  we  ha\e  taken  the  first  road  leailin^;  to  the  ri>,dit  and  arrive 
.it  the  northwest  ]).irt,  upon  a  narrow  ridj^e,  called  froni  its  shape, 

Ib'i.'s  l!\i  K  fium  uiiich  we  ^'aiii  one  of  the  finest  views  of  the  American  I-'ails.  Ri^ht  in 
fioiit  i>  the  sin. ill  Center  I'all,  and  the  foot-brid[,'e  which  leads  to  l.una  Island,  with  its 
ilw.nfed  and  stunted  trees;  beyond  is  the  serrated  line  of  the  Anieric.in  I'all;  while  the 
(list. nice  is  I'llicil  up  with  the  recrdintj  lines  of  the  banks  of  the  river  below. 

1  )es(  ciidinj,'  the  steps  in  front  of  us,  we  cross  a  pretty  and  substantial  bridge  over 
the  stre.im  th.it  firms  the  Center  l'"all  and  l.md  upon 

I.rv  A  |s|  AMI,  .1  pK'.is.int  little  isii't  well  worth)-  of  a  visit.  Its  n.ime  came  to  it  in  connection 
with  the  weird  and  ple.isin;^'  a[)i)e.irance  of  the  Lun.ir  bows,  visible  there. 

rill  lilKi  1'  I'Kiiili.ls  are  an  irreLjuhir  projection  of  th.it  portion  of  the  precipice  which  is 
funned  ))>•  tiie  west  side  of  l.una  Island,  and  ,ire  almost  uiuler  the  American  l'"all. 
I'iiey  oht.iin  their  name  from  their  remarkable  likeness  to  three  human  faces. 

Till  Cl  N  1 1  i<  i'".\l.l.  over  which  we  p.iss  on  our  w.iy  to  and  from  (ioat  Island,  aithou-^di  a 
mere  ribbon  of  white  water  when  seen  from  a  short  distance  in  contrast  with  the  (ireat 
I'alls,  is  !))•  no  means  unworth}'  of  notice.  It  is  lOO  feet  wide,  ami  a  very  ^'raceful  sheet 
of  w.iter.      .\  lew  p.ices  brin^'  us  to  the  entrance  of 

Minnil's  SlAlKs  erected  in  iSjy,  by  Mr.  Hiddle,  president  of  the  United  States  Hank.  They 
are  tirmly  secured  to  the  cliff,  cpiite  safe,  and  So  feet  high.  The  total  descent  from  the 
top  of  the  bank  to  the  bottom  is  1S5  feet.  Descending  the  stairs  we  take  the  pathwa)'  to 
the  riijht,  .md  having  previously  donned  a  water-proof  dress  are  i)rcpared  for  a  visit  to 

Till  Cavi:  01  rili;  Winds,  which  lies  behind  the  Center  Fall.  The  Cave  is  100  feet  high  by 
i(>o  deep  and  1 60  long,  ami  its  existence  is  due  to  the  action  of  the  waters  upon  the 
sh.ile,  le.uing  the  more  solid  limestone  rock  overhanging.  A  visitor,  v\hose  impressions 
.ippeared  in  ll.irper's  Magazine  years  ago,  gives  a  most  graphic  ilescription:  "Close  by 
the  entrance  \-ou  look  ilown  into  an  abyss  of  cold  gray  mist,  driven  ever  and  anon  like 
showers  of  hail  into  your  face,  as  you  grope  your  way  down  the  rocky  slope.  Haste 
nut,  p.iuse  not.  Here  is  the  pi.itform,  h;ilf-seen,  half-felt  amiti  the  blinding  si)ray  Shade 
of  l'".ither  Hennepin,  this  is  trul)'  a  'dismal  roaring'  of  wind  and  water.  We  are  across 
— .mil  st.ind  secure  on  the  smooth  shaly  bottom  of  the  cave.  Look  up!  what  a  magni- 
litent  arch  is  formed  by  the  soliil  rock  on  the  one  side,  anil  the  descending  mass  of  water 
on  the  other.  Which  is  the  solider  and  firmer  you  hardly  know.  Vet  look  again — for 
it  is  sunset — and  see  what  we  shall  see  nowhere  else  on  earth,  three  rainbows  one  within 
another,  not  half-formeil  anil  incomplete,  as  is  the  scheme  of  our  dailv  life;  but  filling  up 
the  complete  circle,  perfect  and  absolute." 

Till.  Ki>i  K  111  Ai;i;s  is  the  huge  rock  l>ing  at  the  foot  of  the  l'"alls  in  front  of  the  Cave  of 
the  Winds. 

l'"rom  the  foot  of  the  staircase,  the  path  to  the  left,  leads  toward  the  Horsc-Shoc 
I'.iil.  I'ortions  of  the  rock  fall  occ.isionally,  anil  the  n>ail  is  but  little  used,  and  not  keot 
in  good  condition;  still,  one  is  well  repaid  for  an  attempt  to  get  a  close  sight  of  the 
(ireat  l-".ill  from  below.  Returning  to  the  bank  above,  and  continuing  the  walk  along 
the  brink,  the  next  interesting  ])oint  of  observation  is 

100 


Tkkkai'IN  liKii)(;r,,  leading,' to  tlic  i(lt;f  ..f  tlu  1 1.. i^ -Slim-  l'".ill  .md  tlu'  li  kkai'IN  Rik  k, 
where  for  fnrty  yens  the  well-kni.un  Tl  uuaimn  I'uwi  k,  slaiuliii^  at  tlie  very  ver^e  of 
tlie  l''alls,  constituted  a  land-mark  tn  l)e  seen  froni  all  directiims.  The  l)ridj,'e,  bein},'  si> 
near  the  l-'all  as  to  bo  affected  hy  the  s])r.iy,  re<iiiires  th.it  those  who  p.iss  over  it  should 
avoitl  exposure.  The  water  at  this  extremity  of  the  l''ali  descends  in  li^lit  feathery 
foam,  contrasting  hneiy  with  the  solid  masses  in  which  it  seems  to  plun^^e  down  the 
center  of  the  sweeping  curve.  The  line  of  ilivision  between  the  government  of  the 
United  States  antl  that  of  Canada  is  in  the  deepe^t  part  of  the  channel,  or  through  the 
angular  part  of  the  l-'all.  It  p.isses  through  the  lonely  little  Ciri.l.  Im.A.M)  in  the  center  of 
the  river,  which  has  never  been  trodden  by  iuiman  foot. 

Following  a  mail  along  the  south  side  of  the  Island,  affording  an  unsurpassed  view  of 
the  Canadian  Rajiids,  which  run  at  the  rate  of  jS  miles  ])er  luuir,  we  come  to  the 

TllKKI-:  SiSIKUS  IsL.WDS,  connected  with  (ioat  Island  .ind  \\  ith  one  another  bj-  three  lieauti- 
ful  bridges.  Their  location  in  the  mist  of  the  Rapids  afford  many  varied  anil  ilesir,d)le 
points  to  observe  the  scenery.  l'"rom  the  head  of  the  Third  Sister  a  continuous  cascaile 
extending  toward  the  Canada  shore  as  f.ir  as  the  eye  can  reach,  and  from  which  the 
si)ray  rises  in  beautiful  clouds,  presents  a  peculiar  phenomenon  usuidly  termed  the 

Li;Ari\(i  RoiK — doubtlessly  a  misnomer.  The  water  striking  against  the  rock  rises  perpet- 
ually in  an  unbroken  column,  twent>-  or  more  feel  high,  producing  a  brilliant  effect. 

TllK  lIl'.kMir's  CascADK  is  spanned  by  the  First  Sister  Island  Mridge,  and  is  a  rare  and 
attractive  I'^all.      It  was  one  of  the  favorite  resorts  of  the  Hermit  of  the  Falls. 

At  TlIK  Ilr.AD  oi'  GoAl'  Island,  a  little  further  up  the  river,  the  view  is  quite  expansive, 
commanding  both  banks  of  the  stream,  and  the  islands  in  the  channel.  Heginning  at  the 
right,  the  site  of  l'"ort  Schlosser  is  seen  about  a  mile  away,  in.irked  by  a  small  white 
building  and  a  very  large  chimne)-.  The  town  of  Chippewa  on  the  Canada  shore;  (irand 
Island,  etc.,  are  all  visible  from  this  point. 

V\'e  leave  with  reluctance  this  most  fascinating  spot,  and  direct  our  steps  towards  the 
Canada  Side,  crossing  the  river  this  time  over 

Till-;  Ni:\V  SusI'KNSIhn  Huiix;!;,  in  full  view  of  the  (ireat  Cataract,  from  which  one  of  the 
most  glorious  views  of  the  entire  l'"alls  can  be  had. 

The  points  alreaiK'  visited  constitute  the  attractions  immediately  arounil  the  I-'alls. 
There  arc  several  localities  in  the  vicinit)'  worth)'  of  attention,  specially  on  account  of 
historical  associations.      A  brief  mention  will  aid  the  tourist  in  his  |)eregrinations. 

The  jVIhiiI(;an  Ciatkai.  Cam  I-I.i;vi;k  Hriihii:,  just  constructed,  a  structure  of  an  entirely 
new  model  and  positivel)'  elegant. 

THK  Oi.l)  St  SI'KNSION  Huiixii-;  two  miles  below  the  l-'alls.  This  was  built  in  1.S55  by  John 
A.  Roebling,  and  is  both  a  railroad  and  cirri. ige  bridge.  It  is  a  marvel  of  engineering 
some  S,cx)0  miles  of  wire  being  emplo)-ed  in  the  cables. 

WlIIKl.l'ODl.  RaI'IDS. — The  narrowing  of  the  ch.innel  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Suspension  Bridge 
greatly  accelerates  the  current,  and  the  tremenilous  force  w  ith  which  it  rushes  through  the 
gorge  throws  the  water  into  \iolent  commotion.  On  the  .American  side  a  double  ele- 
vator, and  on  the  Canada  side  an  inclined  railway  have  been  pro\ided  to  descend  to  the 
water's  edge  and  take  a  near  view  of  the  wild  scene. 

TlIK  WlllUl.l'i )()!.. — A  half  mile  below  the  Rapids,  the  Whirlpool  is  found.  Here  the  river 
makes  an  acute  angle  in  its  cmirse,  turning  to  the  right,  and  boils  within  a  narrower 
compass  than  in  aiu'  other  s|)ot.  The  current  of  the  river  runs  with  such  fierce  velocity, 
that  it  rises  up  in  the  middle  ten  to  twenty  feet  above  the  sides,  (^n  the  surface  of  this 
whirling  vortex  are  often  seen  the  ruins  of  forest  floating  round,  marking  out  to  the  eye 
the  outline  of  that  fatal  circle.  The  Whirlpool  may  be  seen  to  advantage  from  either  the 
Canadian  or  the  American  side. 


ft 


'I'm  MaMI'iI.  Ill;  I'ISNAi  II  Rii'  K,  is  xilpixist'd  tn  t)i'  a  |)<>ltinn  nf  the  clitt',  ,lt  tlu'  bast-  <>l" 
wliiili  it  iii-^.  tlirnwn  (Iciwn  in  furiiur  times.  It  is  situated  about  tift)'  roils  above  tlie 
Whirlpool,  at  the  ed^^e  of  the  ri\er,  its  shape  bein^;  that  of  an  iinerted  cone,  with  its 
ape\  rtsiint^  upon  the  suiiuiiit  of  another  larj^e  ruck,  rcachin);  to  the  hei^'ht  of  nearly  one 
luindrt  (I  feet  from  the  water'n  ed^je. 

l'.K(ii  K's  MoMMKNi. — ( )n  (Jueenston  lieit^lits,  four  miles  below  tilt;  Whirlpool,  oil  the 
C  aiiada  side,  stands  the  Monument  erected  to  the  memory  of  the  Hritisli  (ieneral,  Sir 
Isaac  Brock,  who  fell  in  the  san^'uinary  action  foui,'ht  on  tlic  spot  on  the  1 5th  of  October, 
iSij.  The  view  from  this  monument  is  most  ^{orKeous.  The  cv'c  wanders  with  untiring' 
deli^jht  o\er  a  rich  scene  of  woodland  and  water.     Just  below,  is  the  villaj^e  of 

(Jl  KI'Ssii  IN,  (iNiAKlif,  a  small  ])ictures(iue  town,  worth  of  notice  chiefly  on  account  of  the 
memorable  battle  that  took  place  on  the  nei^jhborin^;  !iei),dits, 

1.1  \\IMi>\,  N.  \.,  opposite  (Jueenston,  is  a  beautifully  situated  town,  about  seven  miles  from 
the  I'alls.  It  is  a  place  of  some  im|)ortance,  anil  stands  at  the  licail  of  the  na\'i)4ation  on 
the  river;  it  contains  several  fine  hotels  and  public  buildings. 

Nl Ai.AKA  I'ipWN  stands  on  tlie  Canaila  shore,  opposite  N'ounj^stown.  on  the  site  of  Newark, 
which  w.is  burnt  in  iSi  ?  by  (ieneral  .McClure.  .A  short  <listance  above  the  town  are  tlie 
remains  of  Impki  (ii;<iU(.i:,  which  was  taken  bv  the  Americans  in  181^,  afterwanl 
<lestroved  bv  the  British  and  left  in  ruins. 

ImiKi  N  I  Ai.AKA  st.iiids  .it  the  moutli  of  the  Nia^jara  River  on  the  .American  side.  There  are 
manv  iiiterestin^j  associations  connecletl  with  this  sjjot.  Durini^the  earlier  part  of  the 
p. 1st  centurv,  it  was  the  scene  of  many  severe  conflicts  between  the  whites  and  the  in- 
dians,  and  subseipientlj'  belwen  the  l'lnf,'lish  and  the  1-Vench.  It  was  establisiied  as  a 
trading  post  b)-  I, a  Salle  in  1678.  The  villay;e  adjacent  to  the  I^'ort  is  called  VulNOs- 
iiivvN,  in  honor  of  its  founder,  the  late  John  Youn^;,  Esq. 

I"'<il<l  .MisSAsAl  (.A,  also  at  the  mouth  of  the  river,  opposite  l"'ort  Nia^Mra,  is  a  little  below 
the  town  of  Niai^ara,  and  is  garrisoned  by  British  soldiers. 

Tin:  I)i:\  ii.'s  lb  mi:,  on  the  .American  side,  three  miles  belov*  the  I'alls,  is  a  lartje  chasm  in 
the  I). ink  of  the  river,  which  receives  the  water  from  a  small  stream  known  as  Bloody 
Run;  it  w, is  the  scene  of  the  murder  o(  the  ICnjjlish,  fJoo  in  number,  by  the  I'reiich  and 
Indi.ms  in  179.^  when  cmlv  three  of  the  number  escaped  to  tt.-ll  the  tale 

I.IMi\"s  1,AM.  Baiii.i:  CiRiUM)  located  one  and  one-half  miles  west  of  the  I-"alls,  was  the 
scene  of  a  sanguinary  action  between  the  British  anil  .American  forces,  on  July  25tli,  1814, 
the  los^  oil  both  sides  in  killed  and  wounded  bcinj;  1 ,8(X). 

Dui  \lMiiM>\  ii.i.i  ,  in  the  immediate  vicinity,  is  named  after  (ieneral  Drumniond,  then  com- 
mander of  the  British  forces. 

Cllll'l'KW.x  Bai  n.l.  (iuoiND. — I'pon  this  field,  located  near  the  villajje  on  the  Canada  bank 
of  tin;  .Niaj^ara,  three  miles  above  the  I'"alls,  was  foii^jht  the  first  of  that  series  of  actions 
which  decideil  the  campaign  of  1 814  in  favor  of  the  .American  arms.  The  battle  took 
place  on  July  5th.   1814.      The  British  made  the  attack  and  retreated  after  the  action. 

Till-;  Tnl'  OK  rilK  MdINTAIN,  on  the  .\nierican  side,  opposite  (Jueenston  Ileijjhts,  jitifords 
from  its  elevated  position  a  magnificent  view  of  Lake  Ontario  and  the  River  Xia^jara. 

Tin:  It  siAKoKA  Imhan  Ri;skk\  ation  is  9  miles  northeast  from  the  l"alls.  It  is  strictly  an 
Indian  villat,'e  upon  which  the  Tuscaroras  are  located,  and  well  worth  a  visit. 

As  a  partino;  injunction  to  the  visitors  of  the  future,  the  pilijrim  would  advisi; 
them,  iinuiiiab/y,  to  make  lUstinct  aj,fn'C'mints  witli  the  liackmen  or  any  other  person 
whose  services  they  may  re(|uire  at  Nia<^ara  I-alls,  as  to  tlie  service  e.xpecteil  and  the 
amount  to  he  paid  in  return.  Kxact  the  terms  of  your  contract,  but  do  not  jjfo 
beyond  without  first  having  a  thorouj^di  uiulerstanding  as  to  the  cost. 

l«s 


HOW  TO   RKflCH    NlflC.flHjI    FfIhL», 


S.;mD  Praclltal  IritnTiti  itlnn, 


r  I;K  I  I'.  S  will   iialiirally  arise 
as    to    llitj    «'asicsl    ami    Ix'sl 
means  lor  rfatliinj^;  tlif   l-'alls 
of  Niagara,   from   the   various 
poiiUs  of  liie  romi)ass,  and,  in  our 
caiiacil)  of  faithful  ami  nliahlc 
infurmaiU,  we  will  inilcavor  to  ^'ivc 
in  very  condenseil  form,  a  few  points 
whieli   may  prove   valualile   knowl- 
i:ilL,fe    to    many    intenilin<,'    visitors. 
Particulars  as  to  rates  of  fare,  time   of 
trains,   etc.,  can   easily  be    ascertained. 
The  (leneral   rasscnj,rer  Department  of 
each  of  the  railways  mentioned  will,  if 
aildressed,  no  iloubt,  1j(;  pleasinl,  to  fur- 
nish, in  the  most  minute  detail,  all  the  data 
^      one  may  ask  for. 
Dwllers  on  the:  u-lden  shores  of  th..  I'acitk  and  \n  the  Creat  West,  the  fertile 
Northwest,  the    enterprisin;^   Southwest,   usin^  the  various    trans-.:ontmental   hnes 
from  West  to  Kast,  will  ^o  either  via  Chicago  or  St.  Louis.      ILalth  ami  phasure- 
seekers   from  the   South  will   K"   via   Cincinnati  or    St.    Louis.      Dem.ens  of  the 
l.-astern  and  Southeastern  Stafs,  will  doul,tK:ss  jom-ney  via  lMiilacU:lphia   New  York 
„r  Hoston;  and  from  the  Middle  States,  '[..ledo  or  Buffalo  can  be  the  centers  chosen. 
Havin^^  thus  established  a  few  central  points  of  departure  we  will  direct  the 
traveler  to  NiaLjara  l-alls  from  those  points. 

FuoM  C-n..A... -Ihc  Michigan  Central  Uailn.ul  has  the  -nly  tl.r..u,h  hne.  rmmin. -hrcclly 
..  NiaKara  Falls,  under  one  n.ana.enu.nt  and  without  change  -f  cars.  1  .me.  run.  ■  5 
..  \,  turs.  IVincipal  p-ints  on  the  n-ute:  Xiles,  Kalam.uoo.  Hatt  e  ^-K-  A"" 
AH  or  and  Detmit.  al!  in  Michigan;  Winds,.r,  St.  Thonv.s,  ,.a,ersv.  e,  Uelland  C  h.,.- 
pcwa  Niagara  ■••alls,  in  the  I'mvince  ,.f  ( )ntatiu.  Fue  I-.spress  han.s.  c  a.  >  ,  u  th 
W^ner  Supers.  Parlor  Cars,  Dinin,  Cars  and  I'alace  S„„>kin,  Cars  attached.  lus 
J^:'""nown  as  •■  m-  Xu,,.n,  F.Ns  K..Ur."  Close  connecti.ms  a,-e  nuuK.  w.th  th.s  hnc 
by  all  roads  entering;  Chicatju  from  the  West.  Northwest,  South  and  Southwest. 


t 


|-MiM   >i     I  "I  l>  —A  tlir(ni^;li  Inn    f nn^;  .1  iiukI  dimt   idiiIi',  mmpuMd  of  W.ib.ish,  St 

l.iim-.  .111(1  I'.itilir  Kailw.iy  fnim  St  l.otii-  In  Ti'liiln,  .tnd  the-  Micliit,'.»n  Cc-nlr.il  Kiiilicnl 
fri.m  T.ilcdii  to  \i.in.»r.i,  rmi^  <l.iily  TimL.  .'5  hours.  Throuuli  I'.ilacc  Slci-pini;  Ciis 
and  Dining'  Car  iitt.tchci! 

ilic  Cliicann  iV  Alton,  tlir  Illinois  (  cntr.il,  .iml  the  Uali.isli,  St.  I.oms  .mil  I'acilii 
Kailvvays  can  aUo  ^i\c  iirst  r.itc  acinmniod.ition-,  from  this  |)oint  to  Ni-i^ara  l''alls  I))- 
\\ a)'  of  ( 'liii,i^;o 

I'KiiM  t  isi  iw.Mi  — I  lu'  (.  incinn  iti,  Hamilton  \'  l)ayton  k.iilroad  runs  directly  to  Toledo, 
will  If  icnneitlnii  is  m.ulc  in  Inioii  Depot  with  the  trains  of  the  .Michit;an  Central  Kail- 
rii.id  fur  \ia^;ar,i  )•  alls 

JKiiM  NlW  \>i\<\s  — The  N(  v\  \  ork  l  tnti.il  Uailioad  direct  line  to  Niagara  I'alls, 
leaves  the  (ii.ind  t  entral  Depnt,  the  ■ml)-  depot  wlure  tr.iins  arri\c  and  depart  from 
in  the  city  of  New  N'^rk,  f<illip\\  in^;  the  eastern  shore  of  the  niannilicent  liiidson  Kiver, 
and  passjii};  fhrou^;li  the  cities  of  Allian>-,  Schenectad)',  Utica,  S>Tacuse,  Kochestei, 
l.ockpoit  .ind  Nia^;ara  {'alls,  all  in  the  State  of  New  York;  also  by  way  of  H.itavia,  N.  V  , 
and  Mullalo.  lime,  fmm  \2  to  1  i;  hours  Trains  proviiled  with  I'alace  Sleepinj;  Cars, 
I'arloi  and  l).i>-  Co.iches,  Dininj;  Cars  and  Smoking;  Cars. 

'I'he  New  \'ork,  l.aki'  luie  i\:  Western  Railroad  runs  thri)ut;h  Jersey  Citj- and  Patter- 
son, N.  J  .  nin;;hamton,  i'.lmira,  Ijoriiellsville,  Attica  and  Huflalo,  N .  \  .  on  the  way 
to  Nia^ar.i  I'alls.  I )istance,  444  niiles.  I'ime,  from  12  to  15  hours.  I'ullnian  Hotel 
and  Drawing  Room  Sleeping;  Coaches  attached  to  through  trains 

The  Delaware,  Lackawan.i  M:  Western  runs  soliil  trains  from  New  N'ork  to  lUilialo, 
wliere  connections  ,ire  made  with  numerous  trains  for  Niaj^ara  I'"alls. 

I'KdM  I'llll  .\lii;i,l'lli.\  — The  i.ehi^;li  \'alley  Route  traverses  the  romantic  valleys  of  the  Sus- 
(pieh.mna  and  l.ehij^h,  and  the  Wilkesharre  Mountain,  eflectin^;  junction  at  connecting; 
points  with  both  the  New  SUrk  Central  and  l-lrie  railways.  I'hrouj^h  cars  run  from 
Philadelphia  to  Hutfalo  and  Niagara  lalU  without  chanj^c.      Time,  15  to  \C>  liours. 

{■KdM    HoMip.N. —  The    lioston    \-    Albany   Railroad   runs  through   coaches   from    Hoston    to 
Nia^;ara   I'alls,  which  are  attached  to  the  New   York  Central  trains  at  Albany,  N.  \' 
I'his  line  passes  throujjh  the  most  interestinj^  portion  of  Massachusetts.      Time,  from 
Hoston  to  Niagara  l*"alls,  15  to  17  hours.      Wagner's  I'alace  SIcepinjj  Cars. 

'I"he  lloosac  I'unnel  Route  also  runs  through  cars  from  Hoston  to  Niagara  l""alls, 
which  are  joined  to  the  New  York  Central  trains  at  Troy.  The  trip  lasts  fron)  1  •,  to  17 
hours.     The  scenic  etTccls  on  this  line  are  ipiite  interesting. 

l'"k().N!  IDl.r.Do. — Toledo  is  one  of  the  terminal  points  of  the  Michigan  Central  Railroad, 
(Canada  .Southern  Dixisjon,)  and  direct  communication  with  Niagara  Falls  is  liad  via 
this  reliable  route.  Time,  <)  to  10  hours.  Palace  Sleeping  Coaches  and  Dining  Cars 
attached  to  e\|)ress  trains. 

I'kuM  lU  ii.M.d. —  The  distance  between  Huflalo  and  Niagara  I'alls  is  only  22  miles,  and 
numerous  trains  are  run  between  the  two  places  by  the  various  lines  centering  there; 
the  Michigan  Ceniial,  New  York  Central,  and  New  York,  Lake  Mric  &  Western 
railways. 


MICHIGAN   CKNTI^fJIh   HJII  IiHO^I^- 


"Thci  Ni.iu.iri  I'lll.  RuiitB." 

MONCi  tlic  riiil\v;i\s  of  ilu'  roimtrj  \\l\i(Ii 
iiniii  s|K(i;il  attcntiuii,  in  ( rniinciion  with 
\iii,i,'ar;i  I'alls,  stands  roicinnst  aiitl  [Hf- 
•  ■minfiit,  tlif  Mi(lii<,'au  Ci  iitral  Kailioatl;  the 
Diily  railroad  out  of  Cliicaj,fo  iliat  runs  tliroiij,di 
trains  Ivastward,  via  Niagara  I'"alls.  A  rontinii 
oils  line  of  railwa)'  iindi'r  one  inanajffiiu'nt, 
Ironi  Chicago,  the  niitrf)|>olis  of  the  west,  to 
N'iat^ara  l'"alls.  the  most  |)i(liir('S(|ii('  spot  in 
SI cnii:  America,  is  rct^ardcd  as  a  master  stroke 
of  business  pohcy  and  riclily  deserves  th(! 
plaudits  of  the  people.  The  Michij^jan  Central 
Railroad  was  orit,nnally  undertaken  and  part- 
ially built  hy  the  State  of  Michigan,  and  in  the 
year  1X40  was  purchased  by  tlu;  Michigan 
Central  Company,  who  ran  the  first  iiain  from 
Detroit  to  Chicago  on  the;  21st  day  of  June,  1S52.  Probably  no  other  railroad  in 
the  L'nited  State's  is  more  thoroughl)  constructed  ujion  a  sjslem  that  comprehends 
all  the  cxpcdiints  and  safeguards  that  human  ingenuity  has  deviscti  for  tlu^  protection 
of  life  ant!  property  in  transit. 

Judicious,  far-seeing  men  are  at  the  helm,  combining  and  directing  its  forces 
with  conservative  skill,  while  its  practical  operation  in  all  departments  is  'ntrusted  to 
officials  who  are  faithful,  intelligent  ami  experienced,  it  is  an  honest,  substantial, 
ably-managed  enter|)rise,  whose  managers  look  first  to  safe  and  swift  transportation 
of  their  passengers  ami  then  to  the  elegance  and  st)le  that  are  the  pro|)er  concomit- 
ants of  a  first-class  road — the  former  a  necessity,  the  latter  a  luxury.  So  it  is  that 
now  this  famous  and  ])opiiIar  route  combines  all  the  elements  constituting  the  make  up 
of  a  railroad  that  cannot  be  surpassi-d  in  anything — substantial  roail  '/ed,  steel  rails, 
magnificent  and  powerful  locomotives,  cars  with  safety  couplers,  and  large  bright 
cheerful  interiors,  finely  upholstered  and  decorated  ;  trained,  experienced,  sober, 
carc'ful  and  courteous  employes,  and  an  evident  intent  on  fhe  part  of  all  officials  of 
the  road  to  accommodate;  the  |)ublic.  The  Michigan  Central  Railroad,  runs  between 
Chicago  .ind  the  Last,  five  express  trains  daily — three  on  Sundays,  made  up  of  fine 

171 


_. 


in  w  (I. I)  ((M(Iii->,  ^iniilviiiM  j;,c.;_  (Irawin;^  nidin  <;irs.  |i;il;iti,il  sli  r|iiii.L,' c.irs,  .md  I.isl 
,in<l  l)(sl,  llir  t.imiiii-,  dining  ( .irs.  I  Insr  (iiiiiii.r  cars  li.ivc  (Itnii:  mnri'  tow. ml  m.ikinjj 
llic  joiinii)  iViim  ("hit, 1^11  to  New  Noik  iiud  iidslmi  comfortal)!!-  and  iiiii>\ali!c  lhai> 
a!U  ndnr  iimdiin  iininiii)n,  i  lie  Miil^ij^Mii  Ci  ntnl  was  lUi-  first  line  to  rim  dininj^ 
cars  Irom  (  hii  a-i'  I'l  dn  I'.ast,  and  ii)  r\;  client  larr,  cdurtcons  allcniidii  and  exten- 
sive ad\>  rtisH)^.  |.(>|.|ilari/iil  the  rno\eiin  nt  uith  the  piiiilic  In  such  an  o.ient  tlial  a 
t;reat  inaii\  luad  .  ha\i  sim  e  adojited  it.  I  hi'  dining;  ears  nnvv  in  use  un  the  line 
an  III  n<  u-  Imild  and  pattern,  luxuriously  litteii  up  and  cniislnirted  willinul  rei,Mril  to 
cost,    se\el|     (  nlislitiuin'.,;     tile     Ilecess.U')      ei|uipinenl,         I  Iw      l.llest    delicacies    ••(■    the 

seasdll  and  well  iM'ep.ired  ilishes,  under  dilec- 
tidi)  of  ,1  inastir  o\  the  i  ulinar\  art,  are  ser\(il 
up  Id  teiu|it  the  nidst  tastididus  epi<  ures  ;  tin- 
<^\i\  ;^a'inl  spt  ctre  d|  ily-pepsia,  so  dlieii  made 
an  inliinale  a<  (iiiaiiUaiK  <•,  llirdUi^di  dseih.isty 
e.iliu''    'a\m\    irre.'ular    lidurs,    is   i  hased    aw  .i\. 


I'dl'    si\-e|lt\     live    (I  Ills     per   'ne,\l,    tile    ijilMlli^-    CUTS    (limisll   .1   Mi/lU     ^ 

ei|u.il   Id  dial  111   die   Im  st   hdiels  in  llie  ( i^iiiitry   aii'.l  it  is  (juietly 
disiussed   uliile   li_\in-    'ddu,;  .it  a  -peed  dl   lorty    niilis  ,m  lidiir. 
this  Iriiaiipli   dl    nn mIi  rn   luxury   dii   ulieiis  has  reje^.ited  td  its 
priuiiii\e  |..ii'li,u  isui  di>   diniii'.;  ^taiidu  wiih  its  unp,datalile 
(  dill  ipinil,inls  cil  (lu  I  \  liMe  (  I'll  lis,  iis  li,is,\  plate  dl  rani' id 
sdiip,  iis  sddili  11   liisi  uii',,  idui^h   si<-,iks  .ind  pii's    ^ 
iiulijMsiilile  .'s  llinl,  uiili  diil)   aiinul   li\e  s(|iiare 
inch's  dl  lime  a\.ul,iMe  lur  L^dMiliiv,^    the  lodd. 

Will)  ,llllple  lime  Id  e|ij.i\  .l!l  llli  delii  ,11  ies  aud 
luxuries  as  Ueli  ,!s  sill  )stailli,l!  .,  (Ddked  ill  dl- 
Im  si     '^'.isli  iillduiic      sl\l''    .llid    se'Mil    ill    ill'      llldst 


(•ml  (il  l..ikr  Mil  !ii^.iM,  i>\ir  ihr  imiiliwi -^tiin  Kiincr  til  the  Suite  of  Indiana,  anti 
ilitnn-  iIiiciumIi  Miiliij^an  I  it\,  NiK  s,  l\.il.im,i/.ii),  Haiilc  Cntk,  Marshall,  Jackson 
.iiiil  Anil  Ailiui,  ,iil  iliii\ini^  .md  n  pn  si  nl.iiiv  r  cilif  s  In  Miiliij^an's  inclrnpDlis, 
|)i'li't>il,  \viihiMit  (loiiiit  OIK  1)1  ilii'  in<iNt  1)1  ,nitilul  i  ilirs  in  Amu  lii  .1.  .ind  lonLiinini^ 
aliniil    1  J<  ).i  H  M I    iiili.iliii, 


inls, 


In     ii.iiiis    pass    0 


M  r    till     1  )i  lioil 


l\i\<r,   ;i 


iM'aiilirui 


•V»- 


I  .1111  111   .iliiMii  (Mil-  li.ilt    iiulf  in  widlli,  in  ulidsc  t  Icar  w.ili-rs 

•  in    i<  ill  1  ii  il   ilic   iiniiics  111   t\\(i  i'/iinlrits,  C  an.i<!.i  ami  the 

I   iiiird  St. Ills,  then  run  lliri)Ui.;li  llic  most  .luiitiitrly  |)i>r- 

tiiiii  111    Ijir  M.ijcstv  s  juisscssion';  in  .America.  Iirinyimf 

i|i  .It  the  r.iiMid  lalls  111'  Nia;|.ir.i.       llie  Riser  Niaj^MiM. 

k    with    it',    s.itiiu     surtaie    nf   hriivlit    eiin  ralil    lies    at    the 


llMlllst  s 


Int.         Ille    I, 


iinmis  \ie\\ 


lliim    .llu.s  e  llie    I'alls 


Ml   tile  I  .in. id. I   side.    Iiist    aUr.iils   the   .iiiiiuion.      riiiin 

111;.;  t^r.iiid.  it  ,iii|iru.u  lies  the  iiiajestic  .nid  si  ;ili'.  die  siii)- 

linie.      .\niillier    ulijeitise     |iiiiiit     111     the     Mf<hi},^.ui     C'eiilr.il 

K.llll'..id.    vJliih    jiiiise^ses  .ill   the  i  [IMlilli  alii  His   rei|uisite  ti>   lelliler    il    I'lle  (il 

.  .1   .Met  I  a   111    iii.ilth    .  ml    ple.isnn- 


cal   walerin^    |ii.ues  n 


I      the      New     \V 


sit'lvcrs  is  Mackinac  Islaiul,  siiiiale  iuiween  tin-  iad  pi  ninsulas  InrmiiiL;  lae  Slate  ol 
Michi;^.nn.      \\\<  \\\nAv.  rcj^lon  aru'.ind  .M.u  kin.ic  Isl.ind  aliuumls  wiili  places  ol  intiTcsi 


to  llu-  Idiirist  <if  iv(r\  (lass,  to  tin-  aiitiiniarian,  to  tlic  scientist,  tl\c  artist,  tlii' 
sportsman,  tlif  invalid,  and  the  taslii..n.d)li-  [ilcisiir"  scikiT.  Tlir  woods  ar<-  full  t)f 
},',inic,  the  waters  are  full  of  fisli,  the  air  is  full  of  health  and  \  ij^or,  anil  all.  woods, 
waters,  air  and  sky,  are  hill  o(  iieaiily  beyond  tJK!  power  of  |)en  to  portray  or 
iniai,Mn.ilion  to  idnreivc,      Seeini(  ;don<'  is  bejievini^. 

Ihe  Midiii^an  Central  controls  and  o|)erates  tlu;  followiiiLj  roatls :  Chica;,'o  to 
Detroit,  2S5  miles;  Detroit  to  IUitf,ilo.  J55  miles;  Welland  to  \ia<,Mra  l'".dls,  iS  miles; 
lort  I'.rie  to  Ni.ii;ara  ['"alls,  ,:S  miles;  Detroit  to  St,  I^Miace,  2S3  miles;  (Irand  Kapids 
to  Jackson,  '>[  miles;  Jackson  to  Hay  Cil)',  1  14  mih's;  \  assar  to  Saijinaw,  22  miles; 
Niles  to  South  Hend,  ib  miles;  Lak(;  to  Jolict.  45  miles;  South  Haven  to  Kalama- 
zoo, 40  miles;  'iOledo  to  I  )etroit,  0(i  miles;  St.  Tho'nas  to  Ridj;<\vay,  So  mih  s.     The 


M:cinOAll  i,l:;':lAi-  IMaHI   I'a  .:iimO  ii   'Q^i'a   r.-.LI-u 


permanent  impro\euunts  on  tin-  lines  during'  tlie  scascm  of  1  .S83,  reipiire  an  invest- 
ment of  more  tii.ut  six  million  dollars,  and  emhract;  amon^  the  most  important, 
a  maj^nificent  new  Canii  lever  steel  hridjre  across  the  N'ia^Mra  River,  in  full  view  of 
the  I'alls;  anew  depot  liuildini;  at  Detroit,  ;,  stories  hii^h,  1  Sox  4(H)  feet,  and  acres 
of  sheds  and  pl.i'dorms;  a  new  transfer  l)o;it  and  slip  on  the  Detroit  River;  miles  of 
doulile  ir.uk.  and  some  V)  or  more  siile  tr.icks  on  the  Canada  division;  iron  bridj^es 
on  the  eiiiire  ro.c  I;  .md  tin-  construction  of  the  cut otf  from  Welland  to  NiaJ,^■l^a 
I  all ..  I  his  last  addition  forms  a  most  important  and  valu.ihle  link,  sliorteninj.^  the 
tlistanie,  as  now  traversed,  lietween  Chica^tt  and  Ni;iL,Mra  I'alls,  som<'  fifteen  miles 
or  over,  and  ni,ikin<.;  the  C,m,ida  Division  a  p<rfect  .lir-Iine  from  Detroit  to  the  rails. 
The  .id\ant,iL,res  olt'  r.  .1  liy  the  Michii,f,in  Centr.  '.  can  he  smnmed  up  in  these 
few  words;  speed,  comloit.  s;tfel)',  ilirftctness  and  the;  most  interest ini,^  sicnery  to  li<- 
found   on   tin     I  onliin  nl. 

IT". 


i 


1! 


,* 


jiei^ofts  :^^lGJi^]l  mvKF{. 


A 


Till!  Ni ■■■■  Mil  hia.iii  I'.i'iiltil  Iliitlgn. 


\' I",  k  rrAIil,!"!  in.ir\rl  of  (•ii''ini(iiiur,  the  ciiui  lever  britkre  unilint:  Canada 


■  mkI  till  I'liili  (1  Slates,  over  ilie  nishiiiLj  lorreiU  of  llic  Niaj^^afa,  al  an  allilndi- 
(i(  tun  luiMilred  iiid  Inrty  li\('  feet,  is  one  amonjL,^  the  attractive  nionintu'nts 
e\ideii(iii^r  the  s|iiril  of  our  proj^aessisc  a'^c,  and  the  advance  mad<'  in  recent  years 
ill  the  art  of  liridu,fe  Imikiint;.  In  less  than  eiylu  months,  from  the  linn;  of  hej^dnninj,' 
o|n  rations,  this  eh  L:,mt  structure  has  been  reared — perfect  in  every  iletail,  substantial, 
s.ile  and  tirin  as  the  Kiu  k  of  Aijt's! 


'I'hr  loi  ation  of  the  bridge,  a   short  distance   below   the   I'alls  of  Niaj,Mra,  p 


re- 


t  hidin;^   till'   possibility   of  any   supports   in   the  (enter  of  the  stream    which  at  this 
pnint  is  S'X'  •<  I  t  h'oMi  shori-  to  shore  ;it  the  water's  edi^^';   and  tiie  construction   of  a 


suspension  bridu;e  bein;,^  unad\isable  on  acmunt  of  the  very  j^rt'at  expense.-  and 
interminable  tinu  insolved,  and  also  the  inevitable  wave-motion  of  that  class  of 
slrui  tures  when  In, ids  are  moved  over  them,  neccssitat«'d  ;i  peculiar  manner  of  con- 
struiliiin,  .md  .i  style  diltereiil  from  lh.it  of  aii)   bridj^^c  already  constructed. 

'Ilie  di  siL^n  is  wh.it  is  known  as  the  canli  lever  bridi^e,  the  principle  of  which  is 
that  o|  ,1  trussed  bi  .im,  supjiorted  at  or  ne,u'  its  centre,  with  the  arms  e.xtendinjf  each 


w.i),  ,111(1  one  I  ud  aiiihored  or  couiiter\\ciu;hed  to  provide   for  une<iua 

d 


load! 


"k^- 


It 


Is  111  |)r.i(  tice  AW  <'ntiril\   mw  desi^^n,  no  otiier  bridj^e  as  yet  liavinj^^  lieen  completed 


ll 


upon   tills   prmci|ili 


.U  M    end   Is  111 


IK 


ule  u|i  of  a  section,  entirel)'  of  steel,  extendiiiL;  from  the  shore 
.irl)'  h.ilf  w.iy  over  the  i  li.ism.  h.acli  section  is  sup|)orted  about  its  center  !))• 
a  stroiiL;  steel  lower,  Iroiti  whiih  extend  two  lever  arins,  one  reachiiiL^  the  nxk)' 
bluffs,  the  other  cMelldillt;  .above  the  river  ;,75  feet  bevoiul  the  towers.  I  in  outer 
.inn  h.ivi'ii,'^  no  support,  and  beiiiu;  subject  like  tin  otlu  r  to  the  v.eii^iit  of  trains,  .i 
( ounler  ad\antai;e  is  i^ivcn  b)  ilie  siiore  arm  beini;  fu'ml)'  anchored  to  the  rocks  on 
the  shore.  i  he  towers  on  either  side  rise  from  the  water's  edj,;^e;  l«lwe<  n  liniii  .i 
«lear  span  ot  5'  ><  >  liet  over  the  river 


the  ll 


k  t 


th 


onL,Mst  Uouoli  tr.ick  truss  sp.m  in  the  worlil. 
Till'  eiiils  of  the  (.uili  levers  reacliiiii^  on  the  C'lnaila  side  ',75  feet,  and  on  the  Amer- 
ic.iii  side    v»5   leet,  hoin   the   towers,  leave  a  Ljap  of   IJ5   feel   tilled   bv      1)   or«linary 


truss 


bridi. 


svvun<' 


into 


place    and    rested    on    the   ends 


the   i-.inli   level' 


lb 


|)rovisi()n    I,    maile    tor    expansion    ,nid    lontr.ution    bv    .in    ini^eiiious    arrarv.yement 


bet 


ween  the  ends  ot   the  truss   bridi.'c  and  o|   the  c.inli  levers  .iHowiiV''  the  <  luls  to 


th 


UMiVf    t'fe 


the    I, 


inpei.itur'-  ch.m; 


l)Ut  at  the   same  time   iireservin. 


jrte.  t 


;f 


?  :■! 


ii 


4: 


ri;(i(lity  ;ii,Miiist  sidi-  pressure  fruiii  tlie  wiixl.    'I'liere  are  no  !,niys  for  this  purpose,  as 
in  a  siispinsiiMi  liridi^e,  Iml  tiie  striu  tiire  is  ((im|)li'te  within  ilsell'.     Tlie  total   leiii^lh 


if   till-  l)ric|in'  is  Si)^   In  I.       It  h.l'- 


(liiiil 


lie  trai 


unt]  Is  built  stroiiir  enoii 


K'i  ' 


o  larr 


>■ 


llpiill  e.u  ll   ll'.li 


,il  till'  s.imr  lime-  ,1 


liii'^du  train  of  tin:  heaviest  kind  exteiuUn^'  the 
t  nliir  |c  ii'^th  el  ihr  liridL^c,  In  aili  (I  1)\  iwi)  "((insdliilation"  eni,Mnes,  and  under  a  side 
pri  ssiire  III  ihiiiv  |)(iimds  per  s(|iiare  Innt,  wiiirii  pressure  is  prodiucd  !))■  a  wind 
ha\iii"  a  \<l(i(ii\  ol   se\  i  iii\   li\  c   miles   pir  hour,  and  excn   then  will  he  straine<i  to 


iinl\  line  lilih  (ll  Us  ulliin.Ui'  sireuL;ih. 

The  Idiiuil.ui'iiis  rest  (111  llie  solid  roi  k ;  lour  lilo(  ks  of  most  sulistantiai  masonry 
are  i,iiii(il  up  lilt)  l(  (  I  .ilioM-  the  surlaic  of  the  water  and  Irom  these  tlie  steel 
liiwirs  su|iporliu;^f  the  i  ,uui  le\trs  rise  i  ^o  feet.  Ihe  load  of  1 ,600  tons  that  come 
upon  <Mi  h  p,iir  of  slit  1  ( (ihuiuis  is  so  disirihuted  that  the  pressur<;  upon  tlie  loimda- 
lion  rocks  is  mily  J5  pounds  per  siju.ire  iiuli.      I'Voin  the  lower  loundations  up,  llie 

f  wliieli  was  suhiected  to  the  most  riifid  tests  from 


whole  liildiie  Is  slecj,   e\rr\    llli  ll  ol 


till'  lime  it  lefi  the  oir  Id  the  lime  it  entered  the  structure. 

Ihe  sti  111  lure  h.is  \(  r\  much  the  appearance  of  an  ortlinar)'  truss  l)ridi,f( 
ill    \  iew    of    ihi 


hut. 
)f   its 


erei  111  111 


I 


iiidiiioiis  and    surrotiiulinns,  very   different  in   the   manner  o 
le  lowers  on   the  w.ilir's  eil<"i;  ami  the  shore  arms  of  tin:  cantide\ers 


h,l\e.   Ill    (Olirse 


eu  erei  led  with  the  help  of  temporary  scaffoldin>,fs  and  a  restinj,; 
poiiii  III)  /,//,/  //i/i/ii  and   the  supersiiihture  is  easil)-   put  in  plact:  from  the  shore  to 


llie  sill  I  lowers. 


liul  .ilier  iliis  ( (lilies  the  di 


I'lii  111 


t  portion  o 


llie 


leet  a(  ross  ,111(1 


15 


■t  al 


io\c  a  riiarunj  rucr  whose  lorce  no  ear 


f  th 

f(i 


c  worl- 


I.  e.,  to  span 


I  an  si,i\ , 


No  1 


rthly  power 
(  inpor,ir\  striK  luic  could  survive  a  moment,  and  here  the  skill  of  the 


en(i|lleer   l  .line   m    Id 


lever  Is  sU(  ll 


ill, It 


itlle  ii,itiire  .iiid  l.iui^h  at  her  jiowers.      Ihe  desi;,Mi  of  the 

d.  th( 


canli- 


ili(  r  the  sliore  arm  is  compleieil  ami  anchored,  the  river  arm   is 


liiiilt  oiii.  one  p.uii  1  or  section  al  a  time  li)  means  of  i^real  travclini;  ilerricks,  and 
sell  susi,iiiiiiiL;  ,is  ii  proL^resses.  .\lier  one  ])anel  of  iwenly-hve  feet  is  hiiill  ami  has 
ils  lir.uiuL;  .uljiisp d,  the  ir.iveliiiL;  derrick  is  moved  forward  nnti  another  panel 
(  !'(  ( ted.      I  hus  the  work  proi,n'ess(;s.  sirction  by  section,  until  the:  ends  of  the  canti- 


are  icK  Ik  (1,  w  hen  .1  trii'-s 


l.rid 


<^c  IS  swimL,r  across  the  yap  of  125 


feet. 


restuvj 


on  the  <nA-^  ol   llie  cantidever  arms,  thus  lorniinsj:  tin   connectiiu 
w  'rk  w  ill  remain  for 


ink. 


his  >■ 


real 


■s  a  litlini,'  trihiite  to  tlu;  earnestniss,  enterprise  and  eneri,'')' 
of  the   MichiL^wn  I.  eiitra!   maiiaL,^eiiient.  and  ils  successful  comiiletion   in   so  short  a 


lime    K  llects    i^re.ll    (leillt    ;ij(on    till 


Ivaiicemeiit  of  .\merican   iMisjinee 


riiv. 


and  the 


.il)ilil\  ,111(1  skill  of  the  I outr.u  tors  the  L'eiiti.il  Hrid'^e  Works,  of  liiiffalo,  \.  ^ 


^t 


ITK 


17U 


m 


MUCKINJIC    IHhflM), 


cm.,    1'.    IKINAN. 


1 


(  »W  1 1  I .  I«!  I.   it)   Aincric;!,    nowlnrc  cm  carlli,   is  llnri'  ;m\   spot   lliiil  coincs 
I,   in  .in  r  iiniiiiiL;  cmtv   i^Ior)- iiiid  lic;uity  ;iiul  tlrli^jht  lliat  conslitiitrs  ;i  tourist's 
^-^      |i,ir,i<liM'  ill. in  this  lim;^  known  hut  ;is  jtt  almost  unknown 


M.\(  KiNAc  Island, 
litili-  \i^it(<i  in  llir  |iast,  owini,r  to  the  i^rcal  (lifViciillics  and  discomforts  atlcntiinj,' a  trip 
to  its  lo\rIy  slions.     ( )liIonL(  in  sliapi',  about  seven  milL-s  in  circiimfcrcncr,  risin):,^ 

IP 


I,'   AIJltHi    l'(l   1 


'■:Ai.i;;tJAC    l;;l.AHl> 


l,MMUly  to  an  almost  mounlainmis  luiiijht  from  tin;  very  ccnt«"r  of  tlust;  famous  straits, 
in  wliiili  tin'  niiL;lit\  waves  of  Superior,  Huron  and  MichiLjan  meet,  it  is  one  of 
nature's  i^^randest  sporlins^  places.  Thi;  chosen  home  of  the  jj^n-at  boss  goil  of  the 
Indi.uiN,  it  lias  lillrd  a  place  in  llie  history  of  all  exploration  since  the  pale-face  first 
set  foot  upon  llic  ni",  world.  It  was  the  scene  of  many  wild  incidents  in  the  life  of 
.M,ir(|uilti-;  .uul  it  was  the  rendezvous  of  La  Salle  and  his  adventurous  comrailis  in 
.irms  .ukI  d.u);^<r.  Iline  llai^s  have  waved  over  it.  Britain  took  it  from  l-Vance; 
Ainiiica  i^aim d  it  hy  the  re\i)lution;  the  I'.ritish  reca|)tured  it  in  1.S12,  and  tlu; 
Annrii.ms  rt  ;^.iiuicl  ii  .u  tlic  end  of  that  war.  The  old  Jesuit  Church  and  Mission 
llousr,  (l.uiiiM  l),i(k  two  (iiituri<s,  still  stands  anioni,^  modern  hotels  and  handsome 
suinnnr  n-siiU  in  <s,  with  their  shruhhery,  and  fomUains,  and  llowers.  'I'he  fort,  with 
its  rn.is-  ivr  stonr  w.dls,  clinL,fs  to  the  siilc  of  thf  Itluff  2^x^  feet  al)o\f  the  kike,  and  its 


l>tl 


t  • 


Im  .iiititii 


cl. 


'fMiiIKl,    Its    lull- 


li.ind,  .iml  Its  triinps  of  jaunty  yoiinjj  ofificrrs,  add 
\asll)   li>  tin:  K'-')'')  •""'  l>rii;litiii  ss  i>|  tin-  stciic. 

On  the  hii^lxsi  |i(iinl  u|  tin  islaitd  AVf  tlif  ruins  (.1  Iml  lldlints.  named  for  an 
Ami  rii.m  ulfi,  i  r  wlin  iinsiii  ( <  ssliill)  altiiniitid  tn  ittaki'  tlu-  Island  iVom  tin-  British 
in   iSi,(.      Iritm  tin-  nld  lurt  tin-  •)<•  lakes  m  <ine  ot  tlie 


i.K  WhI  s|      (AM  il;.\M.\- 

l   lak< 


iN     I    \UIII, 


su(r|i  (it    ivi  miles   (i|    ma^nilKenl   lakes,   rolling   l)illii\\s   shown  (res 


^ted, 


^'I-een 


islands,  wild  (  rai^s  and  |»re(  i|ti(  is,  slielvin;,'  shores  ol  da//lin^'  while  s.ind,  lii^hlhoiises, 


Iduh^,  indi.in  I  m  am|iments  .uid  far  nai 


Utn^  I 


nresls  meilinj,;  awa\  in  the  dnn  dislancf 


iniM  iJK  Miidistin);iiislial)le  hhie  of  wave  and  sk_\.  I'.ir  away  lo  tin-  northward  an; 
pLunK  seen  St.  Martins  Isl.ind,  Hums'  Island,  and  ihe  lamoiis  C "hiiiiuwa  Indian 
\  illai^i  ,it  the  month  o|'  i'ine  river.  To  ihe  west  lie  I'oinl  Si.  iLjnace,  with  ils  wharves, 
hotels  ai\d  mills,  ihe  liiirial-placc  of  I'alher  Maniiictle;   the  Uahhil's  Haik,  a  slrangc; 


r.mj^c  of  riK  ky  hills  presenlin),'  |ire(isel)  ihe  appearance  ih.il  siii^^^'esteil  ihe  name, 
with  ,1  :^iL;anti(  perpeiuliciilar  pillar  of  j,frayish-while  stone  stickim^  up  jnsi  enons^h  lo 
put  the  Imishim^f  l.iil  to  ihe  picture;  Point  La  har!)e,  where  the  old  traders  of  a  hy- 
i^dhe  .ij^e  iisid  ill  sh.i\c  or  trim  their  hcards  and  do  a  little  "slickinij  up,  hefore 
i^dinn  ill  to  meet  ih'ir  p.uidns  or  their  j,'irls  in  Mackinaw;  and  the  (iros  Cap  llills 
I, idling  ,iwa\  into  the  dim  shore  line  of  the  northern  peninsula.  Outlined  aL;ainst  the 
sk\  on  the  ■louthwest  are  Wauj^dshaiui'  lighthouse,  MiCiulpins  I'oiiit  and  lij^ht 
house,  .md  nearer  .it  li.uid  M.u  kinaw  Cil\  on  the  northern  |)oinl  of  the  lower  iieiiin. 
sul.i.  TweKe  miles  southwanl  the  pretty  little  city  of  Chel)oyj,Mn  lies  in  plain  view, 
\utli  its  do(  k,  its  handsome  houses  and  ils  fleet  of  white  sailed  vessels.  To  the  cast 
iwi  nl)  lour  miles  .iw.iy.  Special  le  Keif  li^dit  house  looks  like  a  slender  liiii^cr  ai^ainst 
liie  lioii/on,  .md  Hois  HI, 111!  Island,  with  its  trout  sire. ims  ami  lii^hl  hmisr  looms  up 
i|ramll\  on  the  vision  just  .uross  a  narrow  strait,  while  twelve  miles  <>tl  to  the 
northeast  can    lie   seen    ihe  upper    part   ol    the  Channcau.\    Islands,   an    enchantinj.^ 


siiMiiMi'  rix  ky  lunii.ilidiih  liki' 
till    iKirlli  (ii.isl  (»r  Irilaiul, 

-.iDllc    lllindliils    III    trrl    llil,f|), 


ar(lii|nl.ii^>(i  III  siimr  I\mi  liiiinlicd  liiMiniliil  iil.iinK,  v-mjiiil;  Irnm  tun  mili  -.  in  Inij^tli 

l<)   llHTf  ;^|rin  (litis    UK  )  111  I  ,11  Ills,,   iliitlill:;   lllr  1  r\  il.ll    U  .llrl  ■>   U  llii  ll     lllsjl    li^     llillrly 

l<'rt  ilrt'|i  ,il   its   sliiirr.  .iiiij   sw  .irmiii,:,'  willi  u  liiii  ri-.li.  l),i-,->.  |iiki  .  |iii  ki  n  1.  (In     Lj.im) 
!Miiskal(>n>,;i' anil  tlir  l.ikc   liiiiil.      I^mi)    llualiiii;   iliiinl   nr  ;^li  am  »>   r  "  ^t-         X"^ 

iif  simsliiiif  cjiail^^'ts  llir  ^^liiiinii-.  snur  li)    vaijiii;,;  till'  tiiiliiii;'.  ul  "■_^-  ^fi^f 

the  waters,  wliiili  raii^i'   lliiniiL^li  >  very  sliailr  Imin  (lii|ir-,i  a/iir 
1(1  p.ilcst  (il'iilivf  j^ffccn,  iViiiM  |)in|il( 
antl  lavciulcr  Id  juinst  silver.      I  Ik 
wliole   isl. 111(1  is  a  v.isl   and   idorioiis     ( 
lahyrinlliiiie  Ire. isiire  house  (il      —         '  '- 
en(  hanlineiUs,  a   wild   l.in::;le 
(if     miniature     mountains, 
mii^dity   prei  i|iices,  civer 
lianj^MDj;  clills  and  i:ra;;s,    ^Su 
the  (iiant's  Causeway  on     "^C^ 
tall  linj^fitrlike  pillars  ol' 

strai^dit  and  slender  as  Cleopalras  .Needle,  (, it. ir.u  ts  nl  di//\  lieiL,dit.  weird  (.i\es 
and  ai)ysmal  ilepilis.  ma^niricent  slielvinj/  lieailies  nl  siKiwy  s.md  .ind  v^r.ivd,  li. ud 
and  smooth  as  a  iiall  room  lloor,  on  which  one  may  ride  or  drive  or  stroll  fur  miles 
at  a  strctcii.  with  the  never  ceasing  melod)  of  spLishini^  w. iters  tillini^  the  air  ,il 
ever)'  turn,  occasional  \iews  of  siorm  lashed  hillous  ri\.ilini,f  the  ocean  s  anijriest 
in  j,n'anileur  and  sa\aj,^er).  a  lort  d.itin:^  h.uk  throuLjh  jiki  )cais  ol  war  ,ind 
roniaiicf,  parath'  j^'roiinds,  youiij^  oHicers,  splendid  lirass  li.ind  miisii  ,  two  liaiile 
lielils  of  the  war  of  iSu.  .i  hurial-^'roimd  where  the  dcul  were  piled,  ruined 
h.ittleinents,  histor).  poetry,  leL;end.  Iirook  tnuit,  moonlij^dit 
'unsurpassed  upon  the  lamed  .Neapolitan  w.ives  ol  the  liipiid 
hii.;hways  of  N'eiiice.  myriads  ot  trout,  hass,  pike,  iierch, 
pickerel,  .md  i^^imy  ^.^ras  linj^s,  .ill  mixed  and  minified  in  im 
.111(1  matchless  ,!,ilor\  ol  \isioii,  while  around  .md 
o\cr  all  lies  the  l^imiuI  iiuironment  ol  lioimdless  hliie 
ol'  w.iter  lielou  .md  sky  aliove,  till  Imth  rominini,de 
alc)n),j  the  r.ir  oil  line  where  e.iitli  .md  lie.iveii  seem  to 
kiss.  .Almost  in  slight  from  this  in.iLjiiilii  enl  mount  of 
observation,  forty  miles  west  of  north,  is  lie.iver  Isl.ind, 
one  of  the  M.initou  .L,'roiip,  where  an  .\meri(.iii  kiii^^ 
rei;4iied  less  ill. in  thirty  \e.irs  aj^n.  It  would 
^\^  take  \olimies  to  tell  o|  the  v.isl  .imoiml  of 
strantje  and  tlirillini,^  reminiscence  lli.il  clusters 
around  this  lieaiitiliil  wavew.ished  p.uadise 
of  he.ilth  and  pleasure  sckers.  The  I'nited  States  ( "loveriimeiit  has  reserved  the 
whole  island,  with  the  exception  of  three  small  farms,  as  .i  National  I'.irk. 

in 


^'iu. 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARQET  (MT-3) 


%" 


1.0 


1.1 


IA&|2.8 

Vi  Kii   12.2 


It 
^   lf£    12.0 


inii! 


1.8 


L25  1111114   111.6 


^ 

>' 


^V"^ 


^"^ 

^'^ 


V 


>' 


7. 


y 


/^ 


Photographic 

Sdences 

Corporation 


23  WfST  MAIN  STMET 

WiBSTIR.N.Y.  14SM 

(716)t72-4S03 


,^. 


*''^ 


'H  ' 


'•■A 


V 


IM^OGI^KSS, 


V 


»-fc?I'"  \'  I  I .  W  I  \  ( I  till  (oiirsr  of  tlic  Michij4-;in  Central  Railroad, 
r  siiKi-  the  iiu cplioii  of  i!ic  C()ini)an)'s  busiiu;ss,  is  sufficient 
aU<siali()ii  of  the  fidrlil)-  of  its  inanai,a'nicnt  to  the  best 
iiilricsls  of  the  travcliiiL^  ])ulilic,  and  its  wisdom  in  meeting, 
so  promptly  and  in  sutli  a  thorough  manner,  the  increased 
anil  most  exactin^f  riMjiiirements  of  an  active,  comfort-Iovinj^ 
population,  a  veritable  nation  of  travelers.  In 
calerini^r  to  the  wants  of  the  traveling  public  the 
Michigan  Central  has  not  betMi  content  to  follov/ 
in  ihf  waUc  of  innovation  and  improvement,  but  has  led  the  van 
itself.  The  growing  requirements  of  the  times,  and  the  demands 
of  its  patrons,  liave  been  met  by  anticipation,  on  the  part  of  the  manage- 
ment of  this  great  rail  highway.  The  changes  brought  about,  however, 
could  not  have  been  arrived  at  all  at  once;  they  are  the  gradual  work  of 
years,  and  tlie  added  combinations  of  science  and  highest  mechanical  skill; 
no  unlrird  experiment  could  prevail,  none  but  thorough  trials  and  tests  could  answer 
im|)erative  demands  for  absolute  safety.  Artistic  taste  as  well  as  practicability  and 
usefulness  have  \)vvn  consulted.  Some  improvement  here  and  there,  a  slight 
aildition  in  this  and  tliat  direction,  summed  uu  into  a  general  improvement  of  the 
entire  e(iui|)m(nt  and  the  comfortable  and  elegant  accommodations  of  to-day.  Rail- 
way traveling,  on  this  line,  is  no  longer  an  irksome  task,  a  journey  of  weariness  and 
bleakness,  frauglu  with  lurking  dangers  and  insufferable  annoyances.  Increase  of 
traffic  furtlu  red  atitlitional  train  service,  ami  attention  turned  to  improvement  in 
ir.icks,  roadway  anil  motive  power.  Stone  ballasting  was  vigorously  applied,  addi- 
tional tracks  constructed,  improved  systems  of  signals  adopted,  and  powerful  loco- 
motive I'ngines  built,  affording  n  ([uisites  of  speed  and  safety  superior  to  anything 
ever  attempted  since  steam  power  has  come  into  use  in  its  thousand-fold  applications. 
The  ingenuity  of  builders  and  mechanics  was  taxed  to  its  utmost  extent  to  combine 
into  the  construction  of  a  rapidly  increasing  and  improved  equipment,  every  point 
of  dit.iil  and  minutia  calculated  to  increase  the  comfort  of  the  passenger,  and 
surround  him  with  the  luxuries  of  home-life.  And  it  might  be  truly  said  that  the 
forests  of  the  world,  its  markets,  its  mines,  its  shops  and  its  scientific  minds  have 
been  in  a  sense  made  tributary  to  these  railway  managers. 


■>>^^J1^. 


>^t7<^ 


if^m 


1«4 


